Next Level Shop-Vac ON/OFF Control

by diyperspective

9.2K13411

Intro: Next Level Shop-Vac ON/OFF Control

In this instructable/video, I will show how you can make your vacuum cleaner remotely controlled. This is convenience at the next level!

This addon is designed for Makita VC2512L shop-vac and the KR2201B switch with the one-button remote.

Provided links are affiliates.

Main Tools:

Main Components & Materials:

Other Things:

  • 2x10mm pan head screws, M3x20mm pan head bolt, M3 nut

STEP 1:

I have this shop vac integrated into my jigsaw and router table. And it is very easy to switch from one to another. I select the auto start function on the vac, select the tool on my made switch, and it turns on when I am using one of those tools.

This is great, but I also made few others (bandsaw, 2in1 disc/drum sander) that I need the shop vac for. And to utilize the same auto-start function I need to unplug integrated tools and then plug another tool into that socket. So at this point, it is just easier to turn on the shop vac and then use the tool.

But then to turn it OFF and ON I need to go back forth to the shop vac and press the switch. Don’t get me wrong this isn’t too bad, but we as humans try to do everything that everyday life would be more convenient.

STEP 2:

So what if I had a switch at the end of a hose? I would have all the control I need in reach of a hand and it would be so cool! But to make it by using wires, let’s be honest it would be silly. So we need to go the wireless way. Searching the internet you can find various neat wireless switches. The only problem that their power ratings are too low.

STEP 3:

Even in my case, the shop vac alone consumes 1000W and I have connected tools with a 700W max rating. As I have 220V AC, I need at least 10A (2000W) switch. Ideally, you want to leave as much room as possible to extend the lifetime of the relay that is inside the switch.

There are different load ratings like capacitive, inductive, resistive. Usually, sellers advertise the highest rating of them to sell a remote switch. If you don't want to get into the details, for motor-powered tools just use the lowest one provided. Motors have a high inrush current when connected and when disconnected generated power from a motor can strike arcs on the relay contacts.

So, knowing all that I will use KR2201B remote switch that is rated for 20A inductive load. It comes in a well-made plastic box with ON LED, setup & pairing button, screw contacts, and the remote.

I attached pairing instructions and working mode setup in the PDF file.

STEP 4:

To use it I could just glue the remote with double side tape on the hose, connect the wires and call it a day.

Well, that’s not me, I value things that are neatly done. So I started disassembling the parts. In the box was just a control board with a springy antenna. And in the remote, there was a tiny battery-powered chip and rubber button that covers it.

So, I spent a whole day designing an enclosure with a clamping bracket that will go on the hose.

If you have the exact vacuum (Makita VC2512L) then it will fit for sure, but if you don’t – hose dimensions requirements in the last two pictures.

STEP 5:

The material of course was my beloved PETG as it has excellent layer adhesion and is hard to break. It usually just bends without snapping in half.

While printing, it was stringing like never before. However, you can easily remove most of the strings and burn the tiny ones after the print.

STEP 6:

To secure both parts I used 2x10mm pan head screws. Both parts fit perfectly and you still have that tiny LED indicator fully visible.

STEP 7:

Now I just need to squeeze the hose, put on the bracket, and secure it with an M3 20mm length screw and a nut.

I think you will agree with me, that this looks just dope. It isn’t that big that it would annoyingly get in a way and I can use it with or without the adapter. But before I can actually use it I need to wire the receiver part.

STEP 8:

I definitely don’t want that these contacts will hang exposed, so I used another box that the receiver will fit in. For the exact part – link on the first page.

As I will be just securing the receiver with double side tape, I needed to make surfaces as flat as possible. That means I don’t need these risers, they don’t line up anyway. And I don’t need all those sticking ends on the receiver.

STEP 9:

In the box where the opening hole is, I drilled two holes for the input and output power cables. You can very easily increase the size of the hole that wire fit without any play but not too tight.

Holes now have sharp edges, so it is important to slightly countersink them that they wouldn’t damage cables.

STEP 10:

To eliminate a lot of wiring work, the easiest way is just to buy an extension cord that is rated for your power requirements and cut it in half.

I removed the cable jacket and wire insulation on individual wires. You could avoid any soldering, but personally, I always solder ends of the wires as they later start splitting and can be very annoying to secure them. But that is actually a bad habit of mine. If you want to do it properly, you should use crimp spade/fork connectors (last photo) at the end of the wires.

STEP 11:

I routed cables, added a small heat shrink tube, and soldered ground wires together from both cables. If you avoiding soldering you will need to secure them with a connector (3rd picture).

To secure the wires is as easy as it gets. You just look at the original box where all the info is and connect output and input Live and Neutral wires accordingly. Different regions have different wire colors so be aware of that.

STEP 12:

To fix the receiver in place I cleaned surfaces and secured the part with thick double side tape. In my case, I needed that input cable would be on the left side so I end up twisting the cables.

Remember to leave some space for the pairing and setup button.

To prevent cables from accidental pullout you can add zip ties and tighten them as much as you can. And with the cover in place, it is done.

STEP 13:

Before plugging in, it is a good idea to check if everything is properly connected with a multimeter on continuity mode.

I also made some holes at the bottom and at the top right side for the hot air to pass through.

STEP 14:

I secured the receiver onto the side of my workbench with two wood screws and now I can finally connect everything.

STEP 15:

Shop-vac power cable to the output socket and input plug of the receiver to the mains.

STEP 16:

And is it working?! Well, yes, it would be a pointless instructable/video if it doesn’t, right?

I am so glad that I properly secured the remote. This feels like some sort of luxury accessory that companies would charge you at least $100. Finally no more reaching back and forth. All control that I need is at my fingertips.

STEP 17:

So here you go, a very nice feature to have and easy to make. You can download STL files for printing and all SketchUp files that I made for this project on my Patreon page.

By becoming a patron you support my work and it immensely helps the small creator. So if you can and want, thank you so much!

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8 Comments

diyperspective 3 years ago

Well in this case you actually should use crimp spade/fork connectors and not crimp ferrule connectors if you want perfection.

matt.moisis 3 years ago

True, I did not notice the type of terminal. My main point was it is bad practice to tin wire going into screw terminals.

diyperspective 3 years ago

I understand that. However, over 10 years I never encountered any problems by doing this. I very firmly tighten the wire, the connector squeezes the tinned end a lot. It basically adapts to the terminal as it is slightly bowed inside. To pull out the wire I would need not just loosen the screw I would need to slightly unscrew it.

I am not saying you are wrong, I know it is a bad practice. Clearly, there are reasons why those crimp connectors exist. Thanks for pointing that out. I need to get rid of my bad habits. I updated the STEP 10.

charlessenf-gm 3 years ago

I am not clear on what you did. That is, does the one button control just the vac? Or does it control the vac and each of the tools?
It appears that the vac is not permanently connected to any one of your power tools, but is moved from one and connected to the other as needed.
So, when connected to the Router (for instance) , do you have to turn the vac on after you turn on the router? Or is the Vac actuated when the router is powered up?
I went to Ali Express (link provided) and found a relay that could be paired with one or more remote control 'fobs.' But you only employ a single remote fob/control fixed to the vac hose.

Am I missing something?

diyperspective 3 years ago

My shop vac has auto start function. My jigsaw and router are connected to the socket on the vac. I also made a integrated switch on the table that powers only one tool at a time from that shop vac socket, eliminating need to plug and unplug the cords of the tools. So when I select the tool on that switch, vac turns on automatically when I turn on a tool.

The remote switch that I made in this instructable is for shop vac control when I am working away from the table. I pass power to the shop vac through that switch. It basically makes that I could turn on/off the vac with the remote button on the hose, eliminating the need to go back to turn it on or off.

I used one remote on the hose. That remote is one button style. I don't really need two remotes to control one shop vac.

Hope this explanation helps.

Build_it_Bob 3 years ago

Very nice project...and a very neat work environment as well!
Thank you for sharing.
Bob D

amrn84robot 3 years ago

Thank you very much for the interesting I'm looking forward to the next invention.
🙏👌