Old Lens, New Camera
Intro: Old Lens, New Camera
The idea.
Basically, I want to put an old lens on a new camera. M54 would need an adapter. but as I have not or could not buy what fabriqué ..... but...HOW??
I show you how!!
Basically, I want to put an old lens on a new camera. M54 would need an adapter. but as I have not or could not buy what fabriqué ..... but...HOW??
I show you how!!
STEP 1: Dismounted
The lens is going to change (ZENITH HELIOS 58mm).
Remove the back of the 58mm. on the picture you can see a 300mm lens that dismounted the back so you can place IN the 58mm.
Remove the back of the 58mm. on the picture you can see a 300mm lens that dismounted the back so you can place IN the 58mm.
STEP 2: Plastic Rings
In this step, we will cut 2 plastic rings (for this I used two cds) for them to act as a seal between the adapter 300mm (Silver) and 58mm adapter (black).
measured with caliper and see which gives us a measure of 1.18 mm. this means that we have to cut it after sanding and reduced to 1mm.
well! we already have our rings, now sanded. well sanded! (remember. .. each with 1mm)
measured with caliper and see which gives us a measure of 1.18 mm. this means that we have to cut it after sanding and reduced to 1mm.
well! we already have our rings, now sanded. well sanded! (remember. .. each with 1mm)
STEP 3: Lace and Cut
Now we will fit one of the rings on the outside 58mm adapter.
the other ring cut into 3 parts so that we can create a lift and screw the adapter 300mm.
the other ring cut into 3 parts so that we can create a lift and screw the adapter 300mm.
STEP 4: Locking the Diaphragm
before closing (black cap 58mm adapter) we will lock the diaphragm.
we do this with an elastic band so that we can open and close the ciafragma manually later.
(this is because the anchor will be completely covered and we will not be able to work it from the command of the camera) is obvious! hahaha
then to lock it with a rubber band we get from the outside aperture control ring light we can have it in "semi-automatic mode" hahaha
we do this with an elastic band so that we can open and close the ciafragma manually later.
(this is because the anchor will be completely covered and we will not be able to work it from the command of the camera) is obvious! hahaha
then to lock it with a rubber band we get from the outside aperture control ring light we can have it in "semi-automatic mode" hahaha
STEP 5: Glue
OK, now we can screw the lid and then to paste the plastic ring.
embedded and cut once, we will measure the position of the screws 300mm adapter and paste parts of ring cut into the other ring is positioned on the 58mm adapter.
embedded and cut once, we will measure the position of the screws 300mm adapter and paste parts of ring cut into the other ring is positioned on the 58mm adapter.
STEP 6: Measuring and Pasting
300mm lens has some rather fine metal rings. they serve so that if by mistake lack 1mm or 0.5 mm from the outside to the inner lens we can fix it.
As expected .... I miss 1mm
but I could be well solved with these metal rings. so I took 2 of 0.5 mm and I stick to the 300mm adapter.
in Photo 1 we can see the metal rings and plastic ring. together are 2 mm. oh yeahh!
As expected .... I miss 1mm
but I could be well solved with these metal rings. so I took 2 of 0.5 mm and I stick to the 300mm adapter.
in Photo 1 we can see the metal rings and plastic ring. together are 2 mm. oh yeahh!
STEP 7: Fire, Measure & TRY
into pieces of smaller ring ... I measured the location of the screws. With heated on fire really small screwdriver and create a hole so you can create a thread with the screw itself.
the new distance measurement from the outer lens to the second database adapter 300mm. really gave 44mm! that's good!
once done, screwed the adapter for Canon camera and once I certify that I was well fixed, I decided to TRY!
the new distance measurement from the outer lens to the second database adapter 300mm. really gave 44mm! that's good!
once done, screwed the adapter for Canon camera and once I certify that I was well fixed, I decided to TRY!
STEP 8: Really Fixed
check that it is really fixed. any noise.
The aperture ring really works.
Now let's test the image!
The aperture ring really works.
Now let's test the image!
STEP 9: 1 Pic
this photo was made with the normal lens of my Canon T3i. 18-55mm
we can see the depth of field and lighting for comparison with the other later.
we can see the depth of field and lighting for comparison with the other later.
STEP 10: 2 Pic
VOILÁ!
observe the depth of field.
excellent sharpness and exactly how far we were right! (none of the 2 pictures, treatment has color, sharpness or contrast to programs)
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Thank you very much for viewing this little project.
I hope to provide knowledge or can build your own project these ideas. no matter the visual. mind the expected result!
Pablo Maritorena
observe the depth of field.
excellent sharpness and exactly how far we were right! (none of the 2 pictures, treatment has color, sharpness or contrast to programs)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you very much for viewing this little project.
I hope to provide knowledge or can build your own project these ideas. no matter the visual. mind the expected result!
Pablo Maritorena
24 Comments
gdomantic 8 years ago
Lol, I've got the same lens and an adapter for it. actually awesome lens :D but yeah. better get an adapter. it's like 1$
AliBee 10 years ago
spas99 10 years ago
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M42-to-EOS-lens-adapter-dslr-cine-/400609166136?pt=US_Lens_Adapters_Mounts_Tubes&hash=item5d462ac338
pablomar33 10 years ago
I living in brazil.
Ballesss 10 years ago
jlester1 10 years ago
For me though, thank goodness I can just buy adapters for my m43 Lumix. Speaking of which, I think I hear the the vintage primes calling my name over on ebay.
Seeya!
pablomar33 10 years ago
ezitis 10 years ago
m42 to nokon,canon,.... :)
Jeff at Stockinbingal 10 years ago
Ysabeau 10 years ago
Libahunt 10 years ago
rondacosta 10 years ago
So, @ Libahunt, and everyone else: I have thousands of slides and 35mm negatives. I got this old idea of using my daughter’s Nikon D7000 DSLR camera with its Nikkor 18 to 200 lens to digitize the mentioned material. The camera specs say “23.6 x 15.6 mm CMOS sensor; total pixels: 16.9 million” which is what you were referring to, less than “full frame” ….
So I imagined to come up with a couple of cardboard tube extensions to FIND the right distance to place that Nikkor lens away from the camera body to COVER the full 35mm slide area.
Any idea or suggestions of approximated distance to start with? The main problem for me is that the camera is with her and I am kind of afraid to have to “experiment” too much with that piece of expensive equipment which is not mine. I will appreciate any inputs from anyone. Thanks.
Ron.dacosta@gmail.com
pablomar33 10 years ago
so if you can not use the motor for autofocus camera and can not control the aperture.
what is interesting is the effect achieved. one more retro, vintage style.
thanks for the comment!
onemoroni1 10 years ago
pmn9393 10 years ago
andreq 10 years ago
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance for a list of lens systems you can find adapter for Canon DSLR. Everything under Canon EF should fit easily on your DSLR.
The only reason I'd "destroy" a lens would be for flange distance smaller than 44mm. I did the same kind of modification on a Minolta mount 90mm Macro lens since it was the only solution to use it on my Canon DSLR. Instead of getting a broken EF lens, you can use a cheap m42 adapter as a mount for the conversion.
pablomar33 10 years ago
first: live in brazil, and here arrives all too late for example if I buy the adapter on e-bay.
second: you're right about the adapter. really confused me. I will try to fix it.
third: 300mm which extracted the ring was broken and fungi.
if the 300mm was not broken and moldy ... NEVER disarm for that purpose haha
thanks for the comment!
danzo321 10 years ago
watergeorg 10 years ago
Thank you.
pablomar33 10 years ago