Rigsby Machine
Intro: Rigsby Machine
Complex, costly and performs a useless task.
The solar powered car darts from its starting position away from the lamp--only to be returned and repeat the cycle.
STEP 1:
The runway, in its lowered position, closes a normally open micro switch--allowing power to a 12 volt, 50 watt halogen lamp. This causes the solar powered car to race down the runway out of the light beam. An Arduino microcontroller causes a servo motor to raise the runway, thus opening the switch, shutting off the light and causing the car to roll back to the starting position. The runway is lowered and the process repeats.
Parts:
Solar Car--Amazon.com (less than $5.00)
Acrylic--estreetplastics.com
Servo HS 322--makershed.com
Arduino--makershed.com
Power supply for lamp--use a low voltage undercabinet supply of 50 watts or greater; regulated 12 volts supplies may not provide enough starting current to illuminate the lamp
Software:
#include <Servo.h>
Servo myservo;
void setup ()
{myservo.attach(5);
}
void loop ()
{
myservo.write(25);
delay (1000);
myservo.write (30);
delay (50);
myservo.write (35);
delay (50);
myservo.write (40);
delay (50);
myservo.write (45);
delay (50);
myservo.write (50);
delay (4000);
myservo.write (45);
delay (100);
myservo.write (40);
delay (100);
myservo.write (35);
delay (100);
myservo.write (30);
delay (100);
}
Parts:
Solar Car--Amazon.com (less than $5.00)
Acrylic--estreetplastics.com
Servo HS 322--makershed.com
Arduino--makershed.com
Power supply for lamp--use a low voltage undercabinet supply of 50 watts or greater; regulated 12 volts supplies may not provide enough starting current to illuminate the lamp
Software:
#include <Servo.h>
Servo myservo;
void setup ()
{myservo.attach(5);
}
void loop ()
{
myservo.write(25);
delay (1000);
myservo.write (30);
delay (50);
myservo.write (35);
delay (50);
myservo.write (40);
delay (50);
myservo.write (45);
delay (50);
myservo.write (50);
delay (4000);
myservo.write (45);
delay (100);
myservo.write (40);
delay (100);
myservo.write (35);
delay (100);
myservo.write (30);
delay (100);
}
STEP 2:
I cut a 12 inch long by 1 and 3/4 inch wide strip of 1/4 inch thick acrylic. I attached a 12 inch by 3/4 inch by 1/8 inch strip of acrylic to the side. I attached the servo horn to one end of this arrangement.
STEP 3:
I added a "wall" to the other side, then discovered that the runway is too wide. The car can turn sideways or even backwards!
STEP 4:
The choice was either to cut new pieces of plastic and do this right or go for the quick fix.
This was my first experience with Sugru (soft touch silicon rubber that moulds and sets permanently). This stuff is great! Squish it in your hands like clay, put the pieces together and wait over night.
Now the car can't turn around or get wedged in sideways.
This was my first experience with Sugru (soft touch silicon rubber that moulds and sets permanently). This stuff is great! Squish it in your hands like clay, put the pieces together and wait over night.
Now the car can't turn around or get wedged in sideways.
STEP 5:
Remove the servo horn from the plastic and screw it to the servo motor.
STEP 6:
Screw the motor and servo horn assembly into the plastic runway.
STEP 7:
Drill a 5/64 inch hole in the plastic opposite the center of the servo shaft.
STEP 8:
Drill a 5/64 inch diameter hole in the 4 1/2 inch long (1 1/2 inch diameter) acrylic rod at the height opposite the center of the servo shaft.
This will accept a piece of 1/16 inch diameter stainless rod--the axle/bearing opposite the servo motor.
This will accept a piece of 1/16 inch diameter stainless rod--the axle/bearing opposite the servo motor.
STEP 9:
Turn the assembly upside down and secure the servo motor and acrylic cylinders to the base.
STEP 10:
Solder 12 inch long (you may cut these down to make the project more neat) #22 stranded wires to the 50 watt halogen lamp (Westinghouse lensed spot, gu5.3 base--12 volt).
STEP 11:
Drill two holes and secure the lever switch to a piece of 1/2 inch thick acrylic.
STEP 12:
Solder wires--one from the halogen lamp, one to the power supply onto the normally open micro switch (this micro switch is rated for 5 amps; that's the minimum acceptable).
STEP 13:
Drill holes in the base to accept screws that will secure the Arduino.
STEP 14:
Using double sided tape, fasten the six volt battery pack to the base (screw the Arduino in place).
STEP 15:
Solder the wires from the servo motor/battery pack and Arduino together. Tape them with electrical tape to prevent shorting.
STEP 16:
Use aluminum tape to secure the halogen lamp wires to the posts.
STEP 17:
Use more aluminum tape to secure the halogen lamp power supply wires to the base.
CAUTION: KEEP OUT OF DIRECT SUN OR THE CAR WILL RUN AWAY!
CAUTION: KEEP OUT OF DIRECT SUN OR THE CAR WILL RUN AWAY!
19 Comments
jtadelman 12 years ago
MikeTheMaker 12 years ago
Build_it_Bob 11 years ago
Build_it_Bob
dick dastardly 12 years ago
Phoenix78 12 years ago
DeusXMachina 12 years ago
shawa1 12 years ago
MikeTheMaker 12 years ago
jstarkmuth 12 years ago
Build_it_Bob 12 years ago
Build_it_Bob
godofal 12 years ago
MikeTheMaker 12 years ago
And someone might accidentally do something useful :)
godofal 12 years ago
making something fun and useless is an art, one that's not practised enough by far
and yes, some of the greatest inventions are accidents :P
projectbronco 12 years ago
pdee-1 12 years ago
hammer9876 12 years ago
MikeTheMaker 12 years ago
(Yes, I could lower the ramp enough to make the car move--but I didn't build an end to the ramp. It would be tricky to keep the car from running off the end by lowering the ramp for movement).
awoodcarver 12 years ago
sitearm 12 years ago