Scrap Wood End Grain Cutting Board

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Intro: Scrap Wood End Grain Cutting Board

In this woodworking video I'm using scrap wood to make a scrap wood end grain cutting board. This how-to woodworking video will show you step by step how to make a DIY cutting board. I'm using walnut scrap wood along with a piece of hard maple wood. End grain cutting boards are the best because and the most expensive because of the extra steps required as well as their durability over their life. I used my DeWalt Table saw and my DeWalt planer for most of this project and then I finished up the board with a juice groove, which I make a juice groove jig for, and mineral oil.

STEP 1: Plane to Consistent Thickness

Plane all boards down to 3/4" thick.

STEP 2: Rip Into 1 5/8" Strips

Then rip all boards into 1 5/8" wide strips.

STEP 3: First Glue Up

Now glue up in the desired pattern as shown. Be sure to use glue that is waterproof and rated for use with food. I used Titebond 3.

STEP 4: Plane to 1 1/2" Thick

Allow the glue to to dry to 24 hrs and then plane down to 1 1/2" thick.

STEP 5: Cut Into 1 5/8" Strips

Now, using a cross cut sled, cut into 1 5/8" wide strips.

STEP 6: Second Glue Up

Now, flip every other piece to randomize the pattern and glue up as shown. Be sure to use lots of clamps for even pressure.

STEP 7: Plane to Final Thickness

Now, plane to the final thickness of 1 1/2" thick. When planning an end grain board be sure to remove very small amounts of wood on each pass so you do not separate the grain or cause tear out.

WARNING: It's very dangerous to do this in a planer. It's possible for pieces to break off and shoot out of the machine at high speed. If you follow my instructions, attach longer sacrificial pieces of wood to the long edges with masking tape and CA glue. This will help protect the ends as well as prevent snipe.

STEP 8: Clean Up Edges

Now clean up all 4 sides of the board. Start by using masking tape and CA glue to create a straight edge on one of the long edges as shown. Then clean up the other long side on the table saw. Finally, clean up the short edges on the table saw using a cross cut sled.

STEP 9: Add Chamfer

If you would like to, add a chamfered or roundover edge using a router.

STEP 10: Cut Juice Groove


Create a juice groove jig using the link below. Then, carefully, cut the groove in multiple passes. The direction of the router rotation should push the router into the guide jig.

STEP 11: Final Sanding

Now sand going through all the grits but stop at 120. Then wet the board and let it dry. This will cause the grain to "pop" allowing for you to sand it smooth with 120 and 240 grit. This will also keep the board smooth over time.

STEP 12: Add Rubber Feet

If you would like to add rubber feet, pre drill small holes in all 4 corners about 1" from the edges. Now screw on the feet.

STEP 13: Oil

Finally, fill a plastic bin with food grade mineral oil and let the board soak for 30 min. Remove the board, wipe off excess oil and allow time to dry before use.

14 Comments

Getting ready to do the juice groove, which size style bit did you use? I know you used a smaller one first before widening it.

It didn't line up perfect, needs a juice groove, sanding, and oil, but otherwise looks cool for an edge grain cutting board. My next round will be better.
Looks great! I believe I used a 5/8" bit bit it's totally your preference. I put a link to the bit set I bought on Amazon in the YouTube video description. If you buy it through my link it helps support my channel. Thanks for the comment!
I was going to ask if you had an Amazon or HomeDepot link because I didn't see any here.
Ya. I only put them in video description for now but I think I can add Instructables to my account.
Very nice, same type of idea as a professional butchers block, end grain, wears a lot better. The permutations on this are nearly endless.
I knew you'd hit the newsletter with this one, waiting to see the views hit the thousands overnight.
Besides being durable, these are always nice looking. Some, so good looking that people won't use them. One modification to the design I use -- from the original plan I followed maybe from WOOD magazine -- is to shift each row one-half the distance of the individual "blocks". This creates a more stable glue-up less prone to warping when I run through my drum sander.
That's a good tip. I just liked the look of it this way.