Seasoning Small Section Timber.
Intro: Seasoning Small Section Timber.
Small branch off-cuts from garden shrubs and trees make for interesting timber for use in your woodwork projects.
Recently a neighbour was clearing some ancient honeysuckle and a flowering cherry tree. My packrat-edness got the better of me. I needed some of that mini-lumber goodness for making handles, file handles, screwdriver handles etc.
So get on your lumberjack shirt and sing the song as you gather your, umm logs.
Recently a neighbour was clearing some ancient honeysuckle and a flowering cherry tree. My packrat-edness got the better of me. I needed some of that mini-lumber goodness for making handles, file handles, screwdriver handles etc.
So get on your lumberjack shirt and sing the song as you gather your, umm logs.
STEP 1: Shakes, Splits Cracks
Fresh cut wood has a high moisture content.
Relative to its dimensions - although the cubic area isn't great, we still need to dry it out under controlled conditions. There's a shrinkage calculator here, and there's an fascinating equation used to ascertain equilibrium moisture content here.
Me? I just dip both ends in wax and leave it for a year or two..
Imagine a tree trunk or branch is like a bundle of very long, leaky microscopic drinking straws. The sap can evaporate out of the ends much faster than it can along its leaks. If we seal the ends with wax it will still leak but at a much slower rate. This gives us a stable drying-out, helping to prevent splitting - of course there are no guarantees :-)
The picture shows timber that has dried rapidly and with no control. We want to avoid the damage that causes to our exotic timber haul. Big thanks to Sean McClean for the image.
Relative to its dimensions - although the cubic area isn't great, we still need to dry it out under controlled conditions. There's a shrinkage calculator here, and there's an fascinating equation used to ascertain equilibrium moisture content here.
Me? I just dip both ends in wax and leave it for a year or two..
Imagine a tree trunk or branch is like a bundle of very long, leaky microscopic drinking straws. The sap can evaporate out of the ends much faster than it can along its leaks. If we seal the ends with wax it will still leak but at a much slower rate. This gives us a stable drying-out, helping to prevent splitting - of course there are no guarantees :-)
The picture shows timber that has dried rapidly and with no control. We want to avoid the damage that causes to our exotic timber haul. Big thanks to Sean McClean for the image.
STEP 2: Hot Wax.
Get an old saucepan, then make sure it isn't somebody's favourite old saucepan. Add wax and melt on a very low heat. It's up to you what colour combination to use. I had a small amount of these and so it all went in the pot....
STEP 3: Dipped and Done.
....and so chocolate will be the colour for my 2009 stock of sticks.
Wood will breathe moisture in and out until it has reached equilibrium with the ambient moisture level of the area it's kept in, this can take years after the wood has become seasoned enough to work with. I plan to make tool handles with this stuff, so I'll season the wood at the draughty end of the room where I keep my tools.
Other cool timber to look out for includes...
" Sumac which glows green under a blacklight!
" Ivy, which if it's from an ancient specimen is extremely hard and turns like plastic - very smooth to
work with
" Rose, a shame to see any ancient roses getting dug up, but if you can get hold of the bole and
base stem of an old rose bush, depending on the condition, you'll have some interesting grain.
Again with the grain, fruit trees are usually one variety grafted onto the rootstock of another, if you can get hold of the root ball of a mature tree you'll have some burrs and grain effects.
And of course by treating the choice bits as timber and not firewood you're taking a bit out of the carbon cycle.
Shameless plug - I'm entering this 'ibble for the Gardening contest, please give it your vote :)
Cheers.
Wood will breathe moisture in and out until it has reached equilibrium with the ambient moisture level of the area it's kept in, this can take years after the wood has become seasoned enough to work with. I plan to make tool handles with this stuff, so I'll season the wood at the draughty end of the room where I keep my tools.
Other cool timber to look out for includes...
" Sumac which glows green under a blacklight!
" Ivy, which if it's from an ancient specimen is extremely hard and turns like plastic - very smooth to
work with
" Rose, a shame to see any ancient roses getting dug up, but if you can get hold of the bole and
base stem of an old rose bush, depending on the condition, you'll have some interesting grain.
Again with the grain, fruit trees are usually one variety grafted onto the rootstock of another, if you can get hold of the root ball of a mature tree you'll have some burrs and grain effects.
And of course by treating the choice bits as timber and not firewood you're taking a bit out of the carbon cycle.
Shameless plug - I'm entering this 'ibble for the Gardening contest, please give it your vote :)
Cheers.
30 Comments
JasonG21 8 years ago
Hi there. I am wood enthusiast who is learning more than he's making - saw some felled logs... or more like thick slices of pine tree at a dump - couldn't resist loading them onto my trailer and van and hauling them home (to my wife who clearly doesn't share my vision!lol) .. The slabs are fairly big / thick - roughly 600-800mm in diameter and about 200-300mm thick (cut with a chainsaw). My question is: do I need to go through the same seasoning process as mentioned above in order to get them to a stage at which the will be workable - and if so: how long do you estimate this to be? I don't mind them splitting to be honest as I think there is natural beauty in that (as well as some cool idea's as to how to fill the cracks)... what I don't want is to have them split so badly that I can't end up using them. All feedback welcome. Thanks. Jason - RE-seat Eco-Friendly Furniture & Decor, South Africa
BecknSky 6 years ago
Same size logs, maybe thinner, but I don't know if I should be treating them with anything while they're outside?
What did you end up doing?
M L G 7 years ago
Very INteresting and extremely helpful facts, thank you for sharing your wisdom.
learn summit new evryday! ;-) saved the shrinkulator link to pocket already, cheers.
meismeems 13 years ago
bosherston 12 years ago
In ancient Europe you could always spot the woodturners, they had a gouge sticking out of them*
So I give it a minimum of two years seasoning, in a relatively dry cellar, for timber that's not more than 5" diameter - taking it from there - if it doesn't feel right while you're using it, stop and get another piece - or stop altogether, it's your call.
Professionally kiln dried timber is expensive by comparison, yet I've never seen a guarantee from the wood yards that the wood won't split.
Hope this gives you some clarification, please take care - it's your body.
* Ok I made this bit up
paulvent 13 years ago
mullberry 13 years ago
trogabird 13 years ago
seltzer10 13 years ago
bosherston 13 years ago
steveastrouk 13 years ago
bosherston 13 years ago
I'm definateley on the lookout for more ancient ivy it's sooo smooth.
steveastrouk 13 years ago
kleinjahr 13 years ago
caitlinsdad 13 years ago
Do you just pile up the wood in a shed or leave them outside to season? The bark is still on so do you have to worry about that getting rot or attracting bugs?
whiteoakart 13 years ago
bosherston 13 years ago
I keep mine in the workshop it's pretty bug free and dry enough to halt decay. No mould or woodworm so far :)
BeDub 13 years ago
whiteoakart 13 years ago
bosherston 13 years ago
You shouldn't need to remove the bark for seasoning, but why did the tree shed a limb? If it was diseased you might want to reconsider using that timber.
Cedarwood is beautiful , I'm envious. Always good practise to use a quality dust mask when machining any wood.