Introduction: Custom Cricut Caddy for Tools

About: I've been an artist all my life. Probably nothing I couldn't accomplish according to my grade school teachers who said "I would make a perfect student if I would just stop drawing all the time". I'm …

Hi everyone, I had designed and created a self standing tool caddy for my Cricut Maker about 2 years ago. But never really thought about sharing the design (figuring everybody has one or they bought one of those plastic ones online) but where's the fun in that. After my recent "X" puzzle I posted, you’ll know (if you read the whole thing) that I had a fire which forced me to purge and reorganize my entire basement. https://www.instructables.com/Vintage-Hoyle-Official-Game-X-Puzzler-Recreation/

But that’s not what I’m sharing in this Instructable. After doing some restoration in my office, due to smoke damage, I decided to relocated my Cricut Maker, all of the tools, & materials there. The table I moved in is and old family table with its own storied history. But it was a bit smaller width wise, than what I was using before, so it didn’t leave me much room for all the tools, pens, etc on its surface. It does have a leaf I can open/close when needed to give me an expanded work surface.

An idea immediately formed for me to make a new caddy that won’t physically sit on the table, but hang on the wall. But in this case on the side of the existing bookcase in the office. So my challenge was to design something to fit in this space and accommodate all my tools. So lets get started...

Supplies


TOOLS:

  • Band Saw
  • Miter Saw
  • Router table with .5” router bit
  • Belt Sander
  • Palm Sander
  • Drill Press
  • 1/2” brad bit
  • 1/8” drill bit
  • 1/3” counter sink bit
  • Impact/Drill/Screw Driver
  • Ruller / Tape Measure
  • Pencil
  • Square
  • Frame Clamps
  • Various Clamps
  • Nail Gun and compressor
  • Wood Glue
  • Spong Brush applicator
  • Early American Wood Stain
  • Cheese cloth
  • 4 .125” round head brass screws 1” long

MATERIALS:All Scrap pieces

  • 1x4x24 square edge molding
  • 1/8” Peg board 9.75 x 15.25
  • 1/4” plywood sheet
  • 1/8” dowel rod

Step 1: Measurements and Designing

Picturing what I had in mind and where I had in mind I set about designing the tool caddy using Tinkercad. I know Tinkercad is typically used for designing stuff to be 3D printed, but I find it’s a great application to noodle out an idea 3 dimensionally. I’ve used Sketchup in the past but have found it much easier to maneuver in Tinkercad. The space I'm going to be working in on the side of the shelf is 11.5” wide. I can pretty much go as tall as I want but I just measured my longest tool and doubled it’s height for the vertical distance figuring if I end up adding any more tools this will give me space to do so. So roughly 16.5”. See pics of my design from Tinkercad. (In hindsight I could have made it much taller to hold more tools, but since I was using scraps I used what I had, which limited the final size).

Across the bottom shelf I wanted a series of tool slots for each spindle too with their various heads to rest in. So 7 - 1/2” holes spaced across the front on a horizontally attached shelf. The only wrinkle to this is the fabric tool which has a special swiveled head that is wider than the 1/2’ hole so I slotted the center hole for it could be slid in instead of dropped in.

Above this shelf I added another smaller shelf with protruding 1/8” dowel rods, about 3/8” tall. These will be used for the various tool heads that can be swapped on the Cricut tools.

Step 2: Cut & Drill Pieces

Appologies up front as I don't have any pics of my cuts. But I'm sure everyone has their own various tools to make their cuts. If you look at my Tinkercad design you can see some of my cut desicions.

Now even though my time machine is still a mess from after the fire (I had to pile a mess of stuff in it while restoring the rooms in the house, emphasis on MESS) I dug through the mess to find the scrap pieces I needed to make the caddy. This was actually the hardest part of the project. You know that situation where you have to move 5 items to get to 1 and then move it all back to actually work? Well in this case it was 10 fold. I plan to clean it all up as soon as we get some better weather. 

Anyways - the scrap pieces

Frame 1- 1x4 about 4’ wide. I cut this down using the band saw to 2 -1.5” pieces. Stripping off and extra inch to make the frame boards. Then cut lengths down to 16.25” long for the sides and another two pieces at 11.5” for the top and bottom. Using the miter saw to cut the 45° angles to help form the frame. After angle cuts I routed out the backs with the .5” router tip for the peg board to nest into eventually.

Peg board with .125” holes. Simple cut square cuts to form the rectangle, but will save to cut down after frame is complete for final measurements.

2 tool shelves - 1/4” plywood cut down two different lengths.

Bottom Shelf, is almost the width of the frame at 10'. 1.5” depth. Measuring the final width and find the center. Also mark the center depth wise which in this case is .75”. Draw a line along the length. Then place marks spaced out along the length for however many tool pegs you’d need. In my case 7 holes so marking centers about every 2”. This gives me the drill spots for the .5” drill bit for the tools to rest in. After drilling the holes, and verify tool fit, I knew I need to add a cut slot to one for the Odd shaped fabric tool which won’t fit through the hole as is. So using the band saw I cut out the portion to the front so the tool will slide in instead of dropped in like the others.

Top Shelf, matches the width of the inside of the frame 8.75”. Again the depth at 1.5". Using the same center method marking points .75” in the middle depth and 4.375” being the actual center I marked for 4 other tool heads to be stored here for a total of 5. I used and .125” drill bit to sink holes through at the designated spots. I cut down the 1/8” dowel rod into .375” lengths. It turned out that my dowel must not have been an accurate 1/8” so I cut a small strip long enough to cover the holes underneath the shelf. Then I glued the dowels in place.

Shelf supports. Again using left over scraps from the frame board I cut down four small pieces to help support the shelves in place on the peg board and frame. I’d give you dimensions but to be honest I just fudged and tweaked them as I went. Sanding and rounding edges for a smooth fit. Since these shelves are so small and the tools they are holding are extremely light weight supports don't have to be anything major, just needed for stability.

Step 3: Assemble Frame and Peg Board

With all my pieces cut I assembled frame using my frame clamps which helps keep the corners pretty square. Applying a smooth layer of glue to each board. Since I had routed out the back and the frame was drying I now knew how long and wide my peg board needed to be. 10” x 13.5” I finished cutting the peg board to size. Applying another liberal coating of glue in the routed out edges. I placed the sized peg board into the routed out area on the back of the frame. I then for good measure applied clamps all away around to make sure it seated nicely and let dry over night.

Step 4: Attach Shelves to the Face

After a good day of glue drying for the frame and peg board insert it was time to add the shelves to the face.

Like I said earlier I didn’t really put to much thought into how these should work. So I just cut and sanded down to support pieces to be glued to the frame and then the shelves to the supports. Two step process really. I placed the supports and trial fit the shelves in place. I did make sure the supports were identical for each side. You’ll notice on the bottom shelf I angled them but in my original design I had the top and bottom supports opposite(not that it matters).

I also notched them out to both attach to the face and insides of the frame. Applying glue to the three surfaces. Frame face and side and face of the peg board. 

The Top shelf which I had cut down to totally fit inside the frame against the peg board I just made two rectangular blocks applying glue to the two sides. Inside frame edge and the peg board surface.

Now one thing I made sure to do was to measure for level positioning. A simple measure and pencil mark on each side did the trick.

Step 5: Stain Assembly and Drill Mounting

With everything assembled I took a sponge brush applicator and applied wood stain overall. The peg board I knew wasn’t going to take the stain very well or actually too well. It really soaked it up. But the overall look gave it a rustic look which I was ok with. The book shelf I was attaching to, as you can see is a really dark stained wood. So I might go back and stain it darker. But for the time being It works.

To mount it I drilled 4 holes on the side using the drill press and .125” counter sink bit. Then holding into position on the existing shelf I drill using the cordless drill one hole. Add the screw to secure it in position. Then drill the other three holes and complete with the other three screws.

Step 6: Add All the Peg Holders and Tools

With the caddy mounted to the book shelf I placed all the hanging peg board pegs. Arranging them to accomodate all the tools. Then place and hang the tools accordingly.

The great thing about this is I can easily create a new one larger one eventually if I acquire more tools.

I’m sure it will come in handy as did my previous caddy. Only this one is secure and out of the way from the work surface.


Step 7: BONUS Organizer

You may have noticed my Sharpie pen holder just below the new tool caddy. This was a simple project as well.

Using a couple of old pieces of scrap stair steps. As you can see, the rounded portion of the steps I left towards the front, and stacked two pieces to give me enough depth for the pens to be able to stand up well enough that they wouldn't wobble around. I cut off the backs staggering the depth enough for each level to be drilled into the one below it as they were stacked.

I have 44 pens, so the number of holes I needed for the number of pens I had were 22 Ultra fine and 22 Fine Sharpies. So 11 holes on each level. The holes for the Fine are bit bigger to allow for the thickness. The holes for the Ultra Thin are a bit smaller so they don't roll around in the holes as much.

Using wood glue and clamps to put it all together. As you can see I didn't even bother staining or finishing it. But now that I have a new place for it I might just stain it to match the other caddy.

Hmmm…. maybe I need and new one that’ll hold more pens and can be attach to the shelf as well freeing up more work surface!!! That just might happen after I get the time machine reorganized. In fact maybe I'll make it a complete combined peg tool and pen holder to replace both. Stay Tuned!!!

Organization Challenge

Runner Up in the
Organization Challenge