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How do I install a sound proof floor?

I need to intstall some sort of a sound proof floor brtween and upstairs/downstairs duplex. There is currently a 3/4 plywood subfloor with carpet and padding over it with insulation between the floor joists but it still allows a lot of noise to travel between the 2 units. I am wondering if I can use some sort of sound board with a laminate flooring laid on top of that?

NirmaanS1 year ago

Large custom-assembled soundproofing cabin can be built at site according to client detail. These cabins are intended to keep up a noise level of 63-67 dBA inside the cabin. http://www.arknoise.co.in

I used a product underneath my laminate flooring called Quick Brace (see below website), which you can purchase at Home Depot for about 9 bucks a sheet. It comes in 8 X 4 X 1/2 (same size as dry wall sheets).

Quick Brace's design is for applications on exteriors for sound proofing and deadening, i.e., installed on the outside of concrete walls and the like, to keep outside noises out, such as vehicle traffic.

I ran onto it 4 years ago when I was looking for a product to use for my interior walls and ceilings in my basement remodel job for sound proofing and not wanting to use a drop ceiling (it saved me several inches and looks great). I attached it to the joists and studded walls, using 1 inch brad's, staggering the seams, then put my drywall on top of it. (I used insulation between the joists for added sound proofing). It worked great and then some, so I decided to try it beneath my laminate flooring project upstairs, too.

For my laminate floor project: I placed the Quick Brace on the existing sub floor, securing it with 1 inch brad's, then covered it with .31 mil plastic. The plastic was used to mimic the rolled up stuff they sell for insulating laminate flooring, and in case there's a peeing accident with one of the cats or dogs. Quick Brace is also cheaper than the rolled up insulating they sell in the laminate floor isle. P.S. I staggered the seams like you would when you hang dry wall...

To say the least, it worked incredibly well. It was easy to put down and the sound deadening qualities are incredible. I also believe the R-Value helps with insulating, especially for the duct work between the basement and upstairs. And, I also think it's much better than the stuff they try to sell you for laminate floor's, that is nothing more than a thin layer of foam encased in plastic. The thickness of this and the laminate flooring ended up being the same as carpet and padding, so the transition between the rooms turned out great, including the tiled bathrooms. I installed it under my laminate floors in all of the house, except the tiled bathrooms...

On a side note, it meets city code, even though it's designed for outside applications.

Borrom Line: I love the stuff and it's worked great for me!

Here's the web site:

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/building-materials-insulation-sheathings/1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-temple-quietbrace-141134.html


gcrdcn8 years ago
Leave the old carpet on the floor, just add 3/4" particle board (Its very heavy, but low in price). Then add the laminate flooring (with its foam pad).
Acoustically isolating the floor from the joists is the key here. Perhaps you could use small strips of foam rubber or polystyrene to support the subfloor above the joists (or new floor above the subfloor). Also, a heavier flooring material will vibrate less.

Another important step would be to better insulate the walls. I suspect your upstairs wall studs are the same as or firmly connected to the downstairs wall studs. If methods that involve taking off the drywall are not an option, you might try making acoustic panels to hang on the wall.

Before doing anything, though, be sure to do some research. Plenty of people would be happy to sell you their miracle sure for soundproofing, regardless of whether it would help in your situation.

It is a bit dated, but the EPA document "Quieting: A practical guide to noise control" (also known as "Quieting in the home") is still a great way to learn about any sort of soundproofing. It assumes no prior knowledge of acoustics but tells you just the parts you need to know.