BB firing flintlock mockup

Very long story short, I'm making a BB gun. I've got the basic ideas and mechanics almost done, its just a matter of making it work and materials.

One of my big problems right now is that the gun will be .177, but it's going to mimic the look of an old flint or caplock muzzleloading pistol, which ranged from .36 all the way up to .80 in the largest ones. Obviously the barrel will have to be concealed within a larger, false barrel.
My problem is making the real barrel attach securely without negatively affecting accuracy because it's off center.
fitting the breech of the real barrel with a nut or a thread insert  has crossed my mind, but I'm not sure if It will be enough.

pictured are some examples of caplocks so you have an idea of what the finished product is planned to look like



Picture of BB firing flintlock mockup
bitchingcaplock.jpg
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Bando_Red (author) 6 years ago
Just in case anyone is still paying attention to this, I'm going to put it off till the summer when I can give it more attention(and money)
Bando_Red (author) 6 years ago
Thats what I was originally going to do Redneck Engy, but I just couldn't figure out how. I mean I suppose I could just have gravity line it up and glue it, but then if one part breaks I have to scrap the whole thing, and airgun barrels aren't cheap.

If you know of a way I could mount the barrel along the top inside and still able to be dissassembled, I'm all ears.

I was fiddling around with parts and managed to make a non-functioning model of a nipple out of the plastic bit they package ring caps with as a safety or something and a .22 short casing. I say non-functioning because although it grips the caps very nicely, that plastic bit won't stand up to firing. with a bit more parts and experimenting I'm pretty sure I can make a sturdy reliable nipple that could be removed and cleaned.

Other than the challenge of working with extremely basic tools and acquiring a piece of wood suitable for this, I'd say I'm off to a pretty good start. the designs for the trigger and magazine is all done, so its really that pesky lock and barrel

would it be way outta my grasp to try and make some of the parts I need with casting and molds if I've never done that before?

Well here's something to think about. You want to be able to disassemble this so how about having the barrel held in place by rings that are mounted inside. If lined up right you should be able to slide it in and screw it in place somehow. Without seeing what you got to work with this is just a random thought.
You could use the plastic nipple you made as a base for a mold and cast one from metal. I've never done metal work like that so I can't give advice. What type of wood were you looking to use? A nice piece of cherry would loook real nice.
Have you thought about going to a local gunsmith and ask some questions? Could be a great way to learn and they may be able to give you some tips on things you may not have even thought of yet.
Bando_Red (author)  RedneckEngineer6 years ago
I find even mentioning the notion of building a gun from scratch to most other gun owners makes them fly into a panic and spout off endless ridiculous reasons why it's a bad idea.

I managed to borrow a couple of tools from my friend, including a hand drill and power drill. No drill press, but if I can get even just one hole perfectly aligned that I can thread the real barrel into, than I'll be set.

I'm beginning to wonder if the toy caps will be enough since it will be a sidehammer and the spark has to travel farther into the chamber. If it isn't, I'm not sure what I can do, other than try to position the nipple so that it has to travel as little as possible.

Alternatively if it turns out to be a big deal, I could make some kind of breech to load the cap into and put a hammer/striker inside the "nipple" that will hit the cap. Thats a bunch of work that kinda ruins the whole smoothness to the system.
ItsTheHobbs6 years ago
You could use the ram rod as a barrel.
Instead of centering the real barrel inside the center of the false one, mount it along the top inside the false one. That way your aim will still be along the same line and not have to be adjusted up/down to compensate for the centering. I hope this made sense. If not I can try to explain it better.
Well, makes sense to me, and what i was going to suggest also.
Warped minds think alike... or something like that. =P