I love the movie Stargate and when I first saw it I immediately knew I wanted to make one of the super cool Horus guard helmets. I had sketched multiple designs over the years and figured out several different methods for building it but rejected them all for one reason or another- usually due to cost or complexity of construction. Since I wanted this to be a costume helmet my requirements were that it be light weight, comfortable, have decent outward vision and be reasonably durable. I also wanted it to be buildable by anyone using simple hand tools. Most important of all I wanted it to move in a similar fashion to the movie helmets.

All of this proved to be a pretty tall order but eventually it all came together and now you can make a moving Stargate helmet of your own!

Here's a video of the helmet-

Be sure to click on the photos to download high res images.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

Saw for cutting wood/metal- I use a Milwaukee hand saw that accepts reciprocating saw blades- super handy!
Cordless drill w/ various drill bits
X-Acto knife with #11 blades
Scissors- small sharp scissors make cutting the patterns easier
Glue gun
Sandpaper- small piece of 100 grit to smooth wood edges and spackling
Allen wrenches- Inch
Screwdrivers- phillips and flat head
Soldering iron- the Hakko FX-888D is probably the best soldering station available for under $100
Ballpoint pen
Bench vise or some other way of securing work while cutting metals
Trusty Instructables multitool- I never leave home without it!

Cardstock (2pkgs)- http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=168038
Craft foam sheet (10ea 12" x 18")- http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=160137
White glue
Tacky glue- http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/clear-gel-tacky-glue-163972/
Gorilla glue- http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100141832/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Spray foam- http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100068117/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Paint- 1 can silver
1 can copper
1 can satin clear coat
Pastels- dark blue, reddish brown, black

Spackling paste

Plywood- 3/32" thickness, 6" x 12" (3ea needed)
Minwax Polycrylic sealer
Velcro- http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202261913/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Cotton swabs/ soft brush- for applying pastels

Arduino- I used my own design Arduino servo board (you can use any variety Arduino you want- available at RadioShack, Sparkfun, Adafruit, etc.)- https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-animatronics-make-your-awesome-costumes-m/
Small switch (2ea)- http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8837
JST female connector- http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9749
JST extension wire http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8670
AA batteries (4ea)
AA battery holder- http://www.sparkfun.com/products/552
Servos- Hitec HS-81 (3ea)- http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-81_micro.html
Hitec HS- 425BB (2ea)- http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-425bb_super_sport_bb.html
Servo extension wire- http://www.servocity.com/html/12__servo_extensions.html
Gears- 22T 32 pitch Hitec splined (2ea)- http://www.servocity.com/html/32_pitch_hitec_servo_gears.html
24T 32 pitch 1/4" shaft mount (4ea)- http://www.servocity.com/html/32_pitch_plain_bore_gears.html
4-40 Swivel ball links (4ea)- http://www.servocity.com/html/4-40x3_16__nylon.html
4-40 threaded rod- http://www.servocity.com/html/threaded_rod.html
Super Duty short control horns (2ea)- http://www.servocity.com/html/306sh_short_single_horn.html
Servo shaft adapter 1/4"- http://www.servocity.com/html/servo_shaft_attachment___250__.html
10-32 Rod end- http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1313
10-32 tap & drill bit
10-32 bolt
10-32 nuts (3ea)
1" Aluminum angle- http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=971&step=4&showunits=inches&id=62&top_cat=60
Nylon spacers- 1/4" ID x 1/2" OD- http://www.servocity.com/html/_4_nylon_spacer.html
1/4" OD brass tubing- http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1539&step=4&showunits=inches&id=84&top_cat=0
3/8" Aluminum rod http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1082&step=4&showunits=inches&id=195&top_cat=60
Aluminum mounting hubs w/bolts- 1/4" and 3/8" bore http://www.servocity.com/html/set_screw_hubs.html
10mm super bright white LEDs- local supplier or http://www.cablesandconnectors.com/30000-30.HTM
10mm LED holders (2ea) I purchased these locally but I found some online here- http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=376&products_id=9026
Resistors- 100 Ohm (2ea) -local Radio Shack
Standoffs- I used standoffs I salvaged from electronics equipmentI found in dumpsters but lots of places sell them online in various sizes -http://www.servocity.com/html/standoffs___spacers.html
Female breakaway headers- http://www.sparkfun.com/products/115
Miscellaneous wire/small wood screws
Small piece of steel sheet- I used a scrap piece cut from old electronics chassis material
Magnet- http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DA2

<p>Wow I'm impressed. Cool project!</p>
Salut! Je m'appelle david. 2&egrave;me menbre du groupe props-memorabilia. Nous faison partit des plus grands collectionneur de props originaux Stargate. J'adore ton travail sur le casque il est g&eacute;nial! Serait tu interress&eacute; par un casque de garde serpent? Je peut te proposer une bonne affaire en &eacute;change d'un casque comme le tiens? Voici mon contact: sudpeinture@hotmail.com
<p>Would it be possible to make it fully out of EVA - foam? (with slight changes and without the elektronics) </p>
<p>I think you probably could- I've seen some pretty impressive foam builds over the last couple of years so I say go for it.</p>
<p>And I'll make one with your instructions</p>
<p>thanks and I love your work</p>
<p>hello i just want to know how can you see with the helmet</p>
If you read through the instructable you will see there is a small mesh panel you can see through. The outward vision is quite good.
<p>Hi, loving this build, I'm making my own and your instructions are helping me lots with some difficulties I encountered. I would love to see the new one, when is it coming up? Or can I find it on other sites? Ooh little question how do you get the lines in your new build to be so much more prominent than in your old one? Ty and again love your work! </p>
Hi there! I just received the fiberglass castings for the new one and I'll have a video up soon- I'll be sure to post a link. The new one was cast by a friend using molds made from actual movie production pieces and it will be radio control just like the originals. :)
<p>This is a fantastic build! Thanks so much for sharing!</p>
Thanks! Wait until you see the new one... :)
<p>I love you. You are gonna help make a childhood dream come true for me. I plan on doing a 3d printed one soon, just finished a 18x18x24&quot; printer for it. You are the man for sourcing everything. Would love to swap ideas sometime. </p>
Thanks! If you ever have any questions just let me know!<br> <br> I've begun work on a new Horus helmet with a friend. This one is much more screen accurate. :)<br>
<p>Finally completed this project enough to take it to Gen Con 2014 in Indianapolis, IN! Took 10 months to finish and I learned much about electronics, pepakura folding, foam applications, and more! Thanks for all the help along the way and for teaching a solid foundation to build from!</p>
<p>Hope they were equaly (or more) impressed at gen con as I am right now!</p>
<p>Thanks Victor! Yes, I received many nods and, &quot;Oh, cool! Jafa from Stargate!&quot; accolades, but unfortunately, was up against Iron Man and a hulk-sized battledroid mech for the costume contest! I'll be wearing this same costume for halloween and possibly another *.Con or two in the future.</p>
That is awesome! I'm so happy you were able to build it!!
<p>If only I where as good crafting these things.. More time practicing needed! Very nice end result! </p>
<p>probably the second coolest thing I've ever seen from a movie</p><p>The first was mc in forward into dawn</p>
<p>I am working on making a Bastet Guard cosplay. I fell in love with this design and as a girl I think the cosplay would work better for me. With a couple of modifications. <br><br>Here is the design: http://www.zbrushcentral.com/showthread.php?91000-...<br><br>I couldn't have even started it without your instructable. It has been a brilliant resource for getting me started. I will have to make some alterations to shape and such but you made the whole pepakura process a breeze! I have to make the face part from scratch though as there are no pepakura files for it. <br><br>I am too scared to do servos and such. But I will stick some LED's in the eyes. </p>
That is awesome! If you can't make pepakura files for the head you could always sculpt it using paper clay or build it up using paperboard and Apoxie Sculpt for the detail bits.<br><br>There's no reason to be scared of servos but LEDs in the eyes will look great. :)
<p>I had some wire mesh from an old mask I gave up on, so I used that and some foam to get it based out. Then paper mache it to smooth it out. It's not too bad... A work in progress though. <br><br>I want to be brave with the servos. But maybe in another project... When I'm not paranoid about me messing it up. </p>
<p>Am hard at work for the next few days, attempting to complete this project by Saturday, for GenCon in Indianapolis, IN!! I had some difficulty with the gear thickness for the ear/wing sections and am rebuilding one side tomorrow. Also using a Mophie to power the Arduino Uno board, as well as the 9V battery pack for servo power. I should be able to get through an entire day of animatronic coolness with it! I'll have video and photos VERY soon!! Thanks for all the great information!</p>
<p>I made the Anubis head, collar, and staff weapon mostly based on your Instructable. Thank you! We were a big hit at Clockwork Alchemy/Fanime this year.</p><p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/roget/media_set?set=a.10101094372854823.1073741923.210268&type=3" rel="nofollow">https://www.facebook.com/roget/media_set?set=a.101...</a><br>Sorry about it being a Facebook set, but it's public so long as you're a member.<br><br>Changes:<br>* No servos. We went for wearable instead of moving<br>* Cut out eye slit and mounted copper mesh. I had lots of people ask how I could see since it blended so well.<br>* Cut the paper out on a laser (Comment for details on how, if you like.)<br>* We built-out the Anubis brow-ridge with foam to make room for the LEDs.<br>* The staff weapon has a hidden button under the foam for it's LEDs. The staff weapon also has a wooden dowel core through most of it. I drilled out part of the end of the dowel to secure a smaller dowel for the thinner parts of the staff.</p>
<p>Wow- fantastic! The pics from the photo shoot are great! Looks like you guys had a lot of fun and I'll bet you were a huge hit. :)</p>
<p><a href="https://plus.google.com/u/" rel="nofollow">https://plus.google.com/u/</a></p><p>0/photos/115623865677863239677/albums/6018347158014044929</p><p>A G+ link with higher res images.<br>Sorry to make you cut and paste twice. Instructables kept trying to make my link into a youtube video.</p>
<p>Making this piece now and am about 1/4 done (up to the paper mache and have my foam ready!) planning on having a fully decked-out garage as an egyptian tomb for halloween, 2014...with the Horus guard at the entrance! Great work!!</p>
Awesome! Be sure to post pics when you're done!<br>
This is amazing, Ihave started ordering parts, it's a little trick as Iive in the UK so I have to use amazon uk and ebay uk rather than home depot. <br> <br>Q. may i use clear varnish in substitute of polycrylic sealer, or is that a must to protect foam from paint. I also worry varnish may cause problems to paint but am not sure... <br> <br>Kind regards Stephen
Hi Stephen,<br><br>Clear varnish would probably be fine. I would try to find a varnish that is acrylic based or at least do a small test sample on the foam sheet first to make sure it won't hurt it. Most enamel spray paints will dissolve foam so that's why you have to coat it first plus it helps seal it so you get a better finish.
where did you learn this stuff?!?! this is awesome!! i have tried to make some stuff with the arduino but have difficult in the design and implementation stage. is this an internet thing or did you go to a university? and is there a name to this other than animatronics?
I pretty much taught myself. When I started adding animatronics to costumes I found there really was very little written material about it available and pretty much 90% of what is done for movie animatronics is RC control, with the remainder being computer controlled. On the electronics side, microcontrollers at the time became more widespread for hobby use so I read as many books about them as I could find, especially any books about physical computing- that's what really bridged the gap for me. Then a couple of years later the Arduino came out...<br><br>So basically what I did was combine traditional movie practical effects animatronics with a microcontroller so the costume wearer could control the system.<br><br>Animatronics were first created by Disney to make moving/talking puppets for displays- they were called Audio-Animatronics. The Jim Henson Creature Shop is probably the first studio that created animatronic creatures for movies. <br><br>What I do when designing animatronics is figure out how I want something to move and then figure out how I want to be able to control it while wearing the costume. The trick is figuring out how to make everything fit within a given space in the costume.
WOW! Huge thumbs up to you for putting this together. This is incredible. Your craftsmanship is amazing. Thank you for sharing!
A couple of weeks ago I received a very nice letter from someone that made this helmet (with control system modifications) and with his permission I'm posting it here with the photos he sent me. He did an amazing job! It makes me really happy when I get letters like this. :)<br> <br> &quot;I just wanted to write and thank you for all of your assistance with this project. It truly was a huge undertaking as my first PEP and animatronic project and I could not of done it and had it turn out to be such a success without your assistance. So from the bottom of my heart thank you for taking time out of your busy day for assisting me with questions. I premiered the helmet and a quick costume I put together at Dallas Comic Con last month. I was a huge hit... people loved it and when they saw the head and ears move they were dumbfounded! I was mobbed for photos and video. I even had people coming up to me and saying &quot;I have no idea what you are but you look awesome and I want a picture!&quot; haha.<br> <br> I am going to do a full build thread here (on the RPF) for those who are interested in making one like I did. I wanted to show you first the final result of your assistance. I'll also give you a link to a montage I made about the building of the helm which includes a part with the head and ears moving on a test run I did.<br> <br> <a href="http://youtu.be/ira9fFXXVLg" rel="nofollow">http://youtu.be/ira9fFXXVLg </a><br> <br> When I arrived for the costume contest the wires to the joystick twisted and broke off but I still managed to win Best Sci-Fi costume at the con. It would of been nice to blow them away with the head movement but I think it still looked pretty darn good.<br> <br> Well again thank you for all your help. I really do appreciate it.&quot;<br> <br> Brian<br> <br>
Been studying this instructable closely since I plan to make a Horus helmet myself pretty soon. I love your build and the anamatronics are awesome. I just wanted to ask if there was any way to program the servos to move on command? Maybe using flex switches or something similar? <br> <br>Not that the programmed movement isn't great. I just remember seeing an earlier prototype of yours that used flex switches controlle a MAKE setup and was curious if that was still possible with arduino.
Absolutely! There are all kinds of sensors you could use- bend sensors, force sensitive resistors and capacitive sensors immediately come to mind. What you do is treat the sensor like a potentiometer- the arduino takes the analog input reading from the sensor and maps the servo movement to it.
Very cool. Thanks for the quick response! I'll look into that more once we get to the electronics stage of our build. :)
If anyone can build me one of these and the quality is top notch in functionality and aesthetics I will pay top dollar for one. Thanks Honus for sharing!
I can understand your older method of attaching the head, but this got WAY too technical for me here. As I see it you have 2 servos for left/right.The third servo spins/tilts the head. Do you not have an up/down? <br> <br>I haven't even begun working with electronics, but I'm looking to make a &quot;simple&quot; (at least I thought when I started) moving head such as this for my first project, but I can't wrap my head around this page's assembly.
It's actually very simple. When both of the servos move forward the head moves up. When both of the servos move backward the head moves down. When one servo moves forward and the other moves back the head will turn (while tilting slightly.) The third servo tilts the head. Make sense?<br><br>
a great book for the construction part of the project : <br>Papier-Mache Monsters by Dan Reeder. He has a web site GourmetPaperMache.com <br>His construction method is very durable. Fast construction.
AMAZING! ive never seen a better how-to helmet than this. its simply AMAZING...
This is phenomenal, your attention to detail is breath-taking. <br>

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm a former bicycle industry designer turned professional jeweler. I like working with my hands and am happiest when I'm in the shop ... More »
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