I made this friction drive bike generator to power my head light and tail light. I got the idea and a lot of the info for this project from another great instructable personal powerPlant
I recently bought a bike to commute to work and around town and figured for safety's sake I'd get a light set. This is the light I got, Planet Bike 1200, but there are many options for bike lights. There are many instructables on bike lights too. My lights are both 3V, two AA's in the head light and 2 AAA's in the tail light, and the box said the head light will work for 4 hours and the tail light for 20 hours in blinking mode. While this is respectable it still requires some attention. I got this bike for its simplicity, single speed means I can just hop on and go, but replacing batteries gets expensive and complicates things to much. By adding the generator I can power the lights while riding.
Thanks to instrutables member aaronscottaugustinhotmail.com a schematic of the circuit is also available.
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Signing UpStep 1: Gather the Parts
Electronics:
1x Stepper Motor - I got mine from a printer I got at goodwill for $3
8x Diodes - I used 1N914/4148 from Radio Shack #276-1122, the personal powerPlant used 1N4001, Radio Shack #276-1101
1x Adjustable Voltage Regulator - LM317T, Radio Shack #276-1778
1x Project Box w/PC Board - Radio Shack #270-283
2x Resistors -Radio Shack #271-003 You'll need the 150 Ohm and the 220 Ohm
1x Heatsink - Radio Shack #276-1363
1x Battery Connector - Radio Shack #23-445
18-20 gage solid wire
Electrical tape
You don't have to get everything from the Shack but I find its easier and roughly the same cost as say Jameco or Digi-Key once you pay shipping.
Mechanical:
1x Bike Reflector bracket - I took this off my bike when I put the lights on.
1/2" Aluminum Angle Stock - Both Home Depot and Lowes have this usually in the hardware section or order it from McMaster-Carr #88805K41, You'll need a piece roughly 6in long
Small nuts and bolts - I used the screws from the printer and some other hardware I had, #10-32 machine screws and bolts would be good
Small rubber wheel - This attaches to the stepper motor and rubs against the wheel as it spins. I used a Tamiya 70145 narrow tire because it was what I had.
Tools:
Dremel - This isn't completely necessary but makes things a whole lot easier
Drill and drill bits
File
Screw Drivers, wrenches, allan keys - for the hardware
Solderless Breadboard - Radio Shack #276-003 I used this to test the circuit before soldering everything to the PC Board
MultiMeter










































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very nice build!
cheers,
Occupy
Keep on the look out for a new Instructable I plan on posting later this summer. Its going to be a more robust design that incorporates a standard hub dynamo and USB charging. I plan on putting it to the ultimate test this summer when I ride 1700miles on the Fuller Center Bike Adventure
Ahem, I'm sorry to spoil the fun of you re-inventing "bike generator". (Though I like your project..).
I am Dutch and over here we have a lot of bikes ( 16 Milion people, 20 million bikes). Almost every bike has a "generator" on it to provide electricity for the lights. 6 volts if I am correct.
for instance: http://www.bike4travel.nl/product_info.php?products_id=625
You can buy them in standard (heavy trodding on the peddals), or High efficiency ones and cost between 6 and 60 Dollars.
Finally, a simple spring and catch mechanism to press the driven wheel against the drive wheel (bike tire) and decouple them easily without having to use a screwdriver would be nice. It would also save wear on your tire.
However, a brushless motor will give longer life due to no brushes to replace, although selecting a motor with high quality ball bearings is another factor to increase lifespan.
Although use of a linear regulator is very simple for a beginner, it is the wrong circuit to regulate with a human-powered bike generator. The better option would have been a buck switching regulator IC, followed by a LC (inductor, capacitor) filter. Also to increase efficiency you can parallel two schottky diodes in the bridge rectifier. Total circuit cost might be $5 more, but to get roughly eight times the efficiency and lower wheel drag it would be well worth it.
max of about 1.5 volt loss.
or you could even buy a low dropout regulator,,,
PS-Wish Me Luck!!!
It's a great project - just needs a little more work...
Maybe you could eliminate the shaft by mounting small magnets on wheel spokes and have pick up coil(s) mounted on the bike frame. It wouldn't be terribly efficient but probably adequate to charge small batteries/capacitors to power the LEDs.
TD
A diode is a one-way valve for electrons. A full-wave rectifier uses 4 diodes, 2 diodes for negative (one diode on each input), and 2 diodes for positive (also one diode for each input, but facing the other direction)
The rectifier sends only positive down one output and only negative down the other. This makes the AC (alternating current) into DC (Direct Current).
taking a trip around lake michigan this summer and this would be so handy- i'd mainly like one that would just recharge AA bateries- the gps eats 'em up quick!! but it'd also be nice to be able to charge my ipod too...
unfortunately, this is all greek to me. ugh. my brain seriously hurts. I DIY when & where I can, but unfortunately with this, i don't have a clue...
-greezus
greezus@gmail.com
Important!!!
Do not charge them with more voltage than they are rated for.
But they will take as many amps as you can peddle into them.
these are put in series to give you the voltage for your LEDs.
But you halve the charge capacity.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/400600/Motors/Stepper-Motors/1.html