Step 6: Assembly

Helper Wires:
You are ready to assemble the device! To make it as easy as possible I used what I call 'helper wires', which are just one strand of wire that I pulled through a section of the handlebar. I used three: one from the end of the tube to the right button, one from the right to the left buttons, and a third from the left button out to the other side of the tube (see first picture).

I would tie the helper wire to the V-in and ground wires of my circuit since they were longest and put tape over the knot to reduce the chance it snagged on something. Then I would slowly pull the helper wire and push in the part of my circuit entering the handlebar so the long circuit would slowly inch its way into the handlebars. Once the helper wire pulled out the right button hole I would untie it and attach the next helper wire to the V-in and ground wires again, repeating the process until the circuit was completely through the handlebars. Be careful to not tug or push too hard if it isn't moving, it might be caught on the inside burs  of one of the holes. Look into the holes and if you see wires near them take a paperclip or wire and poke them away from the opening before pulling again.

Securing Buttons:
Once you have it completely through line up the buttons with their holes. You will need to find something that you can stick in the back side (opposite the hole that the button part of the pushbutton will stick through) to secure the button so it won't fall back into the handlebars when pushed. I used a tapered plastic piece (it's a plastic drywall screw anchor) I found in the basement that fit snugly in the hole and held the button well but screws or other parts should work fine.

Don't worry if you need to take out and re-insert the circuit into the handlebars a few times to readjust things, it doesn't take too long and my circuit worked fine even after several times of pushing and pulling on it.

<p>Mizchief, wondering if you thought adding an automatic on off type of sensor? I have been using my rig for 4 months or so and I have to unplug each time I'm done. Wouldn't it be great with 5 minutes of inactivity it turns off and a touch of the button (right or left ) it turns back on? I'm using a micro exactly as you have it.</p>
<p>can you upload the wordfile for the arduino again, i cant find it</p>
<p>I Made It !!!!</p><p>I will be adding limit switches in the brake levers.</p><p>THANKS FOR YOUR HELP</p>
<p>Awesome! Post a pic of the finished product, I'd really like to see it!</p>
Thanks for your reply the difference is is that I ride a cargo bike, it looks like you are a fixie rider. Sometimes it's difficult to remove your thumbs from the grips. I could incorporate microswitches into both the front and rear brake levers. I have my prototype breadboard complete and it works flawlessly pressing both buttons. As I said I can follow directions but the programming is beyond my skill set.
<p>Ok yeah I didn't quite understand what you were getting at before. If you want to have buttons in the grips and in the brake levers you could wire them in parallel (have all the same wires go to both buttons) and then when either is pressed it will work like normal. Or of course you can just put them in the brake levers if that's easiest.</p>
<p>Would you be willing to add code to actually have RED brake lights? I would connect a micro switch to the brake lever</p><p>I can follow directions but writing code is beyond my skill set.</p>
<p>Right now in the code if you click both turn signals at once it holds RED brake lights for four seconds.</p>
<p>Bravo for your project.. It is really awesome and pretty useful.</p><p>I am looking forward to start next week creating your project. I have only 1 question.</p><p>Is it ok if I select Arduino Pro Micro or Arduino Nano?</p>
Helios here we come!
I think that on flat bats like for a mountain bike you could mount it like this but put a couple of ping pong ball halves for light dispersion on the ends and just got glue them on the ends. Maybe fill them with the hot glue for even better light dispersion. That way it could be seen from the front, side, or rear of the bike.
That'd be sweet! Try it out.
While it seems like a good idea, is it really useful? I mean a car has its turn signals lights about 6 feet apart with following cars directly behind it. With a bike, it is a bit different. At most those are 18 inches apart, and from 40 feet away in the dark, can you really tell whether it is signalling left or right? Maybe it should be more light boat running lights where port is red and starboard is green?
In the dark they are visible from much further than 40 feet. After doing this instructable I actually flipped them over so they point out to the front now and use a blinking light in the back so there is no problem with them being blocked by my legs or body. Most importantly though, it is meant to be a fun project and not to solve every bike visibility problem.
That is a great idea
Yes! Thank you! Bikers need to be seen!!
When trying to downkoad your code I just get: 403 Forbidden Request forbidden by administrative rules.
Thanks for letting me know, I will re-upload it shortly!
Just out of curiosity can you propose ways this might work with flat bars? Thanks so much and what an awesome tutorial!
It can definitely work with flat bars! The only thing slightly different would be LED placement, since they would point out to the side rather than straight front/back. You could just drill a hole in the bars near the end caps (rather than in the end caps) to fit the LEDs if you wanted them to point forward/backward, but the LEDs pointing to the side shouldn't be a problem. If you have any other questions feel free to message me.
this is awesome! <br>thumbs up for the great italian brand bike frame! ;-)
Thanks, and yeah I love my Bottecchia!
hey. i see you put a lot of efford into this and agree that this is a great introduction to attaching electronics to otherwise analog devices. just some final touch ideas. <br>if you can sacrifice function over aesthetics, i'd recommend to feed an dc-plug out of the handlebar somewhere in the center, preferrebly glued into it entirely. this way, you could use a 9v battery velcroed to the upper tube when needed for power supply. <br>behaviour: I suppose you arranged the buttons in a fashion you would press the right one for going left and vice versa, so you'd still be able to use your arms for indicating direction. <br>sensorics: acc- &amp; deceleration: a 3axis accelerometer could be a fun way to strobe the leds if decelerating rapidly. i dunno wheter there are pressuresenstive stripes, if existing, theyd be a great thing to be put underneath the grip so you'd just have to grab harder... <br>
Hey, thanks for the ideas! What I did to mount my 9V outside was cut a small notch in the handlebar plug and feed out the V-in and Ground wires to plug the battery into, but you could attach these to a dc-plug it would just be a little less universal. I thought about using an IMU because I've got one that would fit in the bars, but you gain very little, it about doubles the cost, and makes putting it into the bars more challenging but to take this project to another level it would definitely be worth it! I also tried to just use common electronic items people could find at electronics stores, but pressure sensitive strips would be cool for sure.

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Bio: I hope to help people with the things I make.
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