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If you've ever seen those little music boxes you wind up, or crank, and they play a little tune over and over from a little metal drum of notes, but wish they did more than play the same 10-second tune over and over for eternity? If only you could change the song and write your own music for it... Now there's an idea.

After a year of design and work, I completed my Re-Programmable Music Box / Mechanical Synthesizer / Organ Grinder Thingy. It has many names, and is 100% non-electric. Just wood, metal, and good ol' people power.

I began this project as a sort of proof-of-concept, designing something from scratch without a lot to base it off of, and a whole lot of engineering problems to solve. Also, I didn't really know what I was doing. It was intended to be a learning and problem-solving experience. And it was a lot of fun.

If you like my work, please vote for it in the Woodworking Competition beginning October 3rd.

Demonstration Video

Step 1: Design and Planning

Since this project was starting entirely from scratch, I needed to make a flawless design that could be easily worked with, and a good design always reduces waste.  I decided to use oak, and at $60 per 10ft plank I didn't want to waste any.  Also, its pretty complex and precision is extremely important for everything to work correctly.

I started with the idea: a large wood cylinder will hold metal pegs.  It will rotate and force the pegs to pluck metal tines, which are tuned to specific notes.

I selected 12 notes across, since it seemed like a very flexible number of notes and allowed me to fill it with a simple 8-note scale in the middle, with a few extra high and low notes.  I could also tune in flats or sharps if I wanted some specifically, or get almost all of a chromatic scale in.  I selected 32 notes "around" the cylinder, because that's what you need to play Pop Goes The Weasel, or any 8-bar song using quarter notes.

The cylinder is made of softwood, 8" in diameter, that I picked up from a nearby carpenter for free.  I found a belt that fit snugly around it to use along with a few gears and a belt for the cranking mechanism.

The tine material was cut from the prongs of a garden rake.  This works great because it is flexible but snaps right back into place.  The tine holder design was sort of up in the air until the rest of the machine was done, so that I could do testing.  Initial designs were too complex and tiny, but the final design (image 3 below) is about as simple as possible, I believe.

Originally I wanted to use almost all wood for this project, but it turned out wood wasn't going to offer the precision that I needed for the tines.  I ended up doing it with a CNC at my college.  In Step 7 I hypothesize how it could be accomplished without such expensive tools.

When designing the wooden frame, try to place the pieces to get as few exposed edges as possible.  The edges you do have, try to align them so that they create borders and still look appealing to the eye.

Step 2: Materials and Tools

Materials:
  • Oak plank (10ft long by 8in wide by 3/4" thick is what I started with)
  • 8" long by 8" diameter wood cylinder
  • Aluminum plate
  • 1" wide 1/4" thick aluminum stock
  • 100 steel pegs
  • 384 1/8" diameter by 1/8" long magnets
  • Rake tines
  • 8" rubber belt
  • Smaller belt
  • 3x gears
  • Carriage bolt and nut
  • ~12" long 1/4" steel rod
  • 1/4" wooden dowel
  • Biscuits
  • Instrument mallet
Tools:
  • Table saw
  • Band saw
  • Drill press
  • Number drill set
  • Fractional drill set
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Drill bits
  • Biscuit cutter
  • Planer
  • 1" hole saw
  • Polyurethane wood sealant
  • Pliers
* Note: I'm going to assume you know how to use your planer, your table saw, your band saw, your drill press, etc. and I won't go into detail about the operation of the machines.  If you're using someone else's machines, have them teach you how to use them, and have someone around for safety.

Step 3: Woodwork

So its tough to find wood in the shapes you want at the lumber store, so I bought a 10 foot long piece that was only 8" wide.  My solution was to chop it into three 3.3 foot segments and glue them together to form a 2 foot by 3.3 foot oak board.

First, chop the plank into three even pieces.  Then, plane them down to 1/2" thickness, since 3/4" is too thick for such a small project.   Next, cut biscuit notches with the biscuit cutter, and glue them in place.  Be sure to mark the locations of the biscuits so that you can plan around them so they won't be visible after making cuts.

Clamp it together and let it dry for 24 hours.

Measure the circumference of the cylinder, and divide it by 32.  Mark 32 lines all the way around the cylinder.  Now, mark 12 holes along each line for each note.  There should be 384 points to drill now. 

To drill the cylinder, set a vice on the drill press bed and put a few rags inside the open jaws so that the wood won't get damaged.  Use a weight on a string to check that the line of holes you are drilling are straight vertical.  Find a number drill that is a few thousandths of an inch larger than 1/8" and drill the holes exactly 1" deep using the depth control on the press.

Next, glue a magnet into the bottom of each hole.  This is to prevent the pegs from falling out when the drum holds them upside down.  The best way to do this is to place a magnet on the end of a steel peg, put a drop of glue on it, and carefully push it down into the hole.  It should protrude from the hole by 1/8".  Then tap it lightly with a hammer to make sure it's in proper contact at the bottom.

Step 4: Woodwork, Pt II

Hop back on the computer and devise a means to get your shape dimensions onto paper.  You can export 2D images from your design software and print them to-scale, or just read off dimensions and mark them on the wood with a pencil and a square.  When placing things on the wood, remember to keep visible edges away from the biscuits!  It helps if your design is on separate cutouts so that you can play with the positioning to maximize wood yield.  Remember the table saw blade will consume about 1/8" of wood, so leave gaps between your pieces.

I'd like to make a safety note.  Table saws are horrible, ridiculously dangerous machines.  If you are not incredibly afraid of the saw, then DO NOT use it.  You need a very healthy amount of fear, so that you'll take every precaution when using it, or you'll loose your thumbs.  I'm serious.

Once your pieces are cut, theres a few holes to drill.  Drill the holes for the shaft that the drum will rotate on, and the sound-port holes on the front piece.  Don't drill the holes in the octagonal pieces that will go in the drum yet, since you'll need to properly find the center once they're in place. Now start clamping and gluing.  I'll admit, I was on a tight schedule at the time and had to get these parts done in a few hours, so I cheated and used a nail gun.  It was a terrible idea, nail guns cause splits in hardwood, so don't do it! Take the time to use glue and clamps properly. 

To make the crank handle, cut a 1.5" piece of dowel and a 2" piece of dowel.  Cut a piece of leftover oak into a 2" by 1/2" piece.  Drill a 1/4" deep hole near one end on one side, and another hole at the other end on the opposite side. Glue one dowel into each hole.  The 2" dowel will go inside the machine, and 2" may be longer than needed so it can be cut down accordingly.

The way I came up with to glue the end pieces into the wooden drum was like this; First, put wood glue around the outside of the first octagon and lay it flat on the table.  Then, put the barrel down on top of it so they fit in together.  Make sure they're lined up correctly and wipe off any excess or oozing glue.  Wait for it to dry.  Then take a center-finding tool* and locate the center of this side of the drum.  Drill a 1/4" to meet your shaft diameter.  Now, do the same thing with the second octagon, but this time, to make sure everything is pushed flat and the octagon isn't too far into the barrel, push it with a rod or dowel through the hole in the opposite end.  Once the glue is dry, find the center of the second side and drill a second hole.everything should be perfect!

Cut a 12" length of 1/4" solid steel rod for the shaft the drum will rotate on.  File the ends so they're smooth.

* A great Instructable for a center finding tool is https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Center-Finder/

Step 5: Mechanics

Now we need to start working on the mechanical linkages and crank for the drum movement.  Since putting the crank right at drum-level would result in the crank hitting the table, I had to devise some transfer mechanisms to allow me to put it higher up.

I found some plastic gears which meshed correctly with the 8" rubber belt I had for the drum.  I glued two of the gears together and glued a long bolt into a hole I drilled through the side of the box.  On the end of the box, I drilled a hole and glued a nut into it.  This would let me insert a machine screw with a captive armature on it, which held a gear on the end.  This would let me tension a transfer belt to prevent slipping of the belts and gears but still make the crank easy to turn.

The result was what you see in the image below.  The system works pretty well, and I don't think there could be a much easier way to do it without fabricating custom gears.

An important thing to think about is the space you have.  There was only about an inch of clearance between the internal wall and the drum, so space was tight.

Step 6: Finishing the Wood

I decided to finish most of the wood early because I wasn't going to be able to keep working on the project for the next four months, and I didn't want it to get dirty or change shape from water in the air.  I just coated it with a few layers of Minwax Polyurethane to make it shiny and bring out the colour of the wood a little bit more.

After the polyurethane is dry, squeeze the 8" belt onto the edge of the drum.  I cut the belt in half because it was too wide and covered the first row of holes. If it doesn't hold in place by friction alone, you can use finishing nails to tack it in place.

Step 7: The Musical Mechanics

This was a major engineering challenge for quite a while.  I had a few designs that were a bust, they were just far too small to be practical.  I ended up distilling the ideas into what I think is as simple as could be possible. 

The tine, which is a piece of steel from a leaf rake, is sandwiched between two aluminum plates.  The tine is kinked at the tip and is roughly the length it needs to be, plus enough length to be held in the plates firmly.  This is secured with two small screw that pass through the top plate and into threaded holes in the bottom plate.  The bottom plate then sits atop a large aluminum plate with slots machined in it.  On the bottom are larger slots with captive nuts in them, held in place against the top of the music box.  A screw passes through a hole in the second plate and into one of the nuts so that its position can be controlled by sliding it up and down in the slot.

Using this method, the tine length can be tuned to the appropriate note, and then the tine holder can be moved towards the pins on the barrel, and lined up for just the right amount of plucking force.

To build the tine holders, I used 1" wide 1/4" thick aluminum stock.  Since I only had 15.3mm of space per tine, I cut the pieces down to 15mm wide, and then into 15mm and 30mm long segments.

The tines can be cut from the rake using a hack saw or angle grinder.  Cutting their lengths is a hit-or-miss guessing game, however.  Depending on their width, thickness, and composition their resonating characteristics will change greatly, so I can't give a list of predetermined lengths.  You'll have to just cut a few and experiment to find what works for your tines.  The tips can be bent with two pairs of pliers.

I used a CNC to cut the aluminum plate.  Now, I know that using a CNC is out of the realm of 99% of readers, but I had the resources and it was the best logical way to do the design I had created. 

If it had to be done using simple tools, I would say that sandwiching pieces of wood together to form the slots, or use a chisel to carve out the slots for the nuts, and a drill and needle files to do the rest.

Step 8: Final Assembly and Tuning

Tuning is a pain-staking process that takes an hour or two.  The tines can be tuned to lots of different scales, but I selected a simple set of notes from the piano. They are:

A3
B3
C4 (Middle C)
D4
E4
F4
G4
A4
B4
C5
D5
E5

The result is a pretty good range of notes that works for lots of little songs like Mary Had A Little Lamb, Hot Cross Buns, and Pop Goes The Weasel.

To tune, start by arranging all the tines by length, and then place them tightly in the tine holders.  Mount all the holders on the aluminum plate, but not near the drum. Tighten them down so they will resonate nicely.  Using a piano or a virtual piano (like http://www.virtualpiano.net/) play the note that you want to tune to.  Strike the corresponding tine with a plastic mallet. If it is too high, loosen the two screws holding the tine and wiggle the tine out further.  If it is too low, push it in further.  Once the notes sound right (and you'll know when) then you can tighten down the tine as tight as possible so it can't slip.  Then, slide the tine holder up to the drum and put a peg right near it.  You want the peg to just barely touch the tine as it comes up, and then pluck it.  You don't want the tine to bend upwards more than a few millimeters.  Too much force could break the tines over time or cause the gears and belts to slip.

Repeat this process until all the tines are tuned.  Set up a "test pattern" by placing pegs in diagonal lines across the drum, so it will play the scale when rotated.  Test it out!  If it sounds good, try out a song or two.  You should be able to use music written for recorder, that should work well on this machine.  Chords are possible, but elaborate ones may require more torque to pluck than the crank will allow.

Step 9: Improvements and Considerations

I'll admit, after all the time and effort I put into good design on this project, it didn't turn out as well as I had hoped.  Part of the problem is the insane precision required to do this properly, which could never be achieved with wood.  If I were to ever try and build something like this again, it would have to be made entirely from metal.

Other than that I don't think the design has any major flaws. I would love to see some comments on improvements and enhancements for the future.

I hope you enjoyed reading, thanks very much.
Do you have a video? Im curious how the tines sound compared to a music box comb
Oh nm i see one lower down<br>
<p>This is really awesome! I was looking for a way to make my own and came across your ible. I need to make a smaller one to install inside a nautilus shell. Do you have any suggestions on how that might work?</p>
<p>I would recommend you try to figure out a way to make a new drum for a off-the-shelf music box mechanism. </p><p>A little one like this; </p><p> <a href="http://www.blokeystuff.com.au/ProductImages/838310000102.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.blokeystuff.com.au/ProductImages/838310...<br><br></a>The way I built mine is not applicable at the traditional music box mechanism scale. Possibly you could drill very small holes in a metal drum and insert small pieces of steel wire, but it would be precision machining work. Possibly it could be 3d printed, with tiny holes for the steel wire &quot;notes&quot;.</p>
<p>Very nice project! Im working on something similar but Im using <br>reclaimed music combs form old cheap music boxes. Ill write my issues <br>here in case someone knows/is interested in helping. <br><br>I will use <br>reclaimed 18 note steel combs from cheap music boxes, but at the time I <br>dont know what notes they play. Does someone know any standard/broadly <br>used configuration of notes? Like this one (</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Note-Comb-for-a-Music-Box-Movement-/251210405129%29" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Note-Comb-for-a-Music-B...</a> <br></p><p> No help in the internet so far. </p><p> Ill<br> be using 1mm (or smaller) laser cut acrylic to strung the notes. Will <br>this be too thin and break the acrylic? I cant make it thicker or it <br>will hit two notes at once.<br><br>How does the crack feel without a spinning element on it for the fingers? <br><br>Do you get sound when a metal plate is vibrating and its strung again?<br><br>Thank you!</p>
frankly I don't understand a lot of your questions. If you elaborate maybe I could help. The tines in those music boxes deflect very little and are plucked by small and short nibs on the drum. acrylic will probably be too weak.
<p>Please do you know how those music boxes that take a punched paper strip work? I can&acute;t find anything about that...</p>
if you're talking about the little hand-cranked ones, I think what is happening is there are vibrating tines in the base, and they are made to vibrate all the time by the cranking movement, but a metal wheel sits on the tine and stops it from making sound. When the hole in the paper comes by, the wheel can lift up slightly into the paper hole, which allows the note to ring for a moment. Slots in the paper allow for longer notes. This is my guess based on the pictures I can find.
<p>Well done. Great project and great instructable. I'm thinking about making something similar but much smaller, this will be really helpful.</p>
<p>Geat!!!!!!!!!!!</p><p>I tried to do a similar project but I left it.</p>
<p>I'll try again with your design, thanks!!!!</p>
<p>Could you possibly make it without metal?? If not, what types of mechanisms could you make that are not made of metal?? Great job!!</p>
<p>You could do it all out of wood, it would just have to be larger. The drum axle could be sized up to 3/4&quot; wood dowel, the gear drives could be made of wood, the rubber belt could be replaced with a wood gear, the tines, anything. Just have to be a little bigger, and you'd have to be clever to get the precision parts made/aligned well enough. Strategic use of hardwood would be smart.</p>
<p>i love it and i'll make it</p>
Great job! <br>I liked your project a lot! <br>It has inspired me to build my own music box, which was made in home conditions without expensive equipment. <br>I would like you to watch the video of the music box, which you inspired me to build. <br> <br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdmW8K7qkMs <br> <br>Thanks again for the awesome tutorial! <br>
Would you happen to have any instructions on how you built yours? It looks good and seems a tad easier then the original post
Hi,<br><br>Very nice work! I like yours a lot, it looks great and works well too. Glad to hear you were inspired by my work.
<p>do you have a video of it playing something? i want to hear the sound quality of it before i make it for a project</p>
I can't make a video because this was done over 4 years ago and the machine has since developed some problems (the drive belt snapped, for one) and so it is unplayable now. I understand that you are concerned about the results before making one and I'm going to be honest with you that it doesn't sound the way I had imagined it would, and that in my eyes this project was a failure. I revisited it a couple years later and marginally improved the performance but the major problem is that big cylinder isn't round, and so it doesn't evenly strike the tynes as it revolves. The whole thing was fun to make and I learned a bunch, but it failed to achieve its goals. If you decide to build it I want you to be aware that problem solving is going to play a key role in your project otherwise its going to sound bad just like mine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mn7hVHlNN9s<br><br>Not the best video but frankly, it doesn't sound the best. If you make one I hope you manage to improve on it.
<p>I was trying a small music box design I made... not so good but when I saw this I threw it away and decided o try to attempt this at school instead-thanks</p>
amazing! english is not my mother tongue. plz understand that if there are some error on my text. i'm student in seoul national university of science and technology - in Korea. and i'm senior, my university request that graduate term project for Scholarship. my team chose that something about the musical box drum molding press machine. we'd like to make that if some music put in computer, then our machine will be make the drum. and, it can be used in existing movement. but now, we are just in start level. anyway, i found this project in googleing, and your project is helpful to make some process idea in our project, and want to say thanks! you are awesome! how did you do that hole of things alone...
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your molding press machine.
Well, you seem to have made a pretty good job with this project!<br> Thanks for the link, but unfortunately with that model we cannot change the music as we want...<br> And it would probably sound much better if the long static &quot;teeth&quot; were made of metal.<br> Anyway, the closest thing I've seen to your project is the <a href="http://shop.naefspiele.ch/ch_en/gloggomobil.html" rel="nofollow"><strong>Gloggomobil</strong></a>.<br> But that's incredibly expensive!
Yes, the Gloggomobil was part of my inspiration for this project. <br><br>Take a look at this, its not quite the same but certainly a well priced compromise.<br><br>http://www.grand-illusions.com/acatalog/Large_Music_Box_Set.html
Really nice project!<br> It would make a wonderful gift to offer someone!<br> Unfortunately I don't think I can build this by myself...<br> Do you know of any place that sells a <em>music gadget</em> similar to yours?<br> And have you ever thought about selling this on <a href="http://www.shapeways.com" rel="nofollow"><strong>Shapeways</strong></a>, for example?<br> I'm sure it would be a huge success!
I'm glad you liked the project, however it has some practical issues and due to a lack of precision mine has proven to be very difficult to get working well. I've always seen it as a half-failure of a project. <br> <br>There are similar things on Thingiverse which let you put a song on the drum and print it out but it is not changeable once printed, you have to make a new drum each time. Perhaps that would be something you would be interested in. <br> <br>See this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53235
Just wanted you to know that a person on listia is selling your work, word for word, and claiming it is their own work. I tried to get a refund but they said that you would need to contact them to claim it as your work. I dont care about a refund but this guy should be stopped. My email is miserysaints75@gmail if you would like to know more.
this is cool, i once saw another kind of programmable music box that worked with a punch card
Thanks, yes punch cards or perforated paper rolls are more common than this kind of pin-based thing. Player pianos use sheets of perforated paper and shoot air through the holes.
If you turn the cylinder on a lathe you will have exact centers so the cyl will be tracking perfect.
Yes I tried that a long time ago, the 3-sided chuck was making the wood split before it was holding it securely enough to be turned.
Whoa.............................................OMG i could not do somthing like that if i had my whole life to work on it........*Bows down to you*
I love mechanical devices so this one was way cool for me to read. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks very much.
Do you have a video of it working? It would help convincing us to do it!<br>Anyway, it's a great work and I'm thinking about doing one myself! Thank you, it gave me a lot of ideas!
It was on the first step, for some reason Youtube refuses to embed it properly.<br><br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mn7hVHlNN9s
Can we see a video of it playing something please I think its really cool and would like to build one alike but would like to know how it sounds first. Thanks and keep up the good work
Video posted. The microphone is incredibly bad, and my tripod was giving me a hard time (its been modified specifically for my DSLR, so normal cameras don't fit right) so the camera angle was severely limited. The problem with some of the notes being too soft and some too hard is that the cylinder of wood was never perfectly round, its off by a few millimeters, and so that messes things up. If I don't hit some notes hard, it won't hit others at all. Crazy.
This is, to date, my favorite instructable! I'm planning to modify your design to make a musical jewelry box for my fiancee.<br> <br> I understand your frustration in getting the cylinder precisely shaped.&nbsp; I'm considering constructing mine out of more staves (maybe 24 instead of the 8) and possibly just forgetting about rounding it.&nbsp; At those shallow angles, the pegs should have no difficulty plucking the tines.<br> <br> Since you're having difficulty getting your cylinder to shape, perhaps you could mount it on a mandrel and use an electric drill as a makeshift lathe.&nbsp; You could cap each end of the cylinder with a large metal disc with a hole in the center (basically a very large fender washer) so the pressure would be exerted evenly, and then run a length of threaded rod through the center and clamp the piece in place with a couple of nuts.&nbsp; I use a similar method when building handles for my fishing rods, and the cylinder is big enough in diameter that I think you would get an acceptable speed of rotation on the outside face to effectively shape it.<br> <br> Regardless, it's a really great project, and I'd be thrilled if mine turned out as well as yours did as-is.&nbsp; I'd like to find a wind-up mechanism similar to what you see in commercially available music boxes, so that the cylinder doesn't need to be manually cranked, and the music would start and stop when the box was opened.&nbsp; I'd just hack an old music box, but I doubt the mechanism would be strong enough for a cylinder this size.&nbsp; Any ideas?
Thanks, yes it is quite difficult to get the precision required. I have an idea I will try, eventually, to plug the bottom of some of the holes with some sort of non-magnetic substance that will elevate the shorter pins to the height of the longer pins, that way they will all be the same height and will strike properly, and the fix won't depend on different size pins.<br><br>The mechanisms inside a music box are incredibly weak. They are a coiled piece of metal which when cranked, is tightened up, and when let go, it expands back to its original size, rotating a center shaft. The scale you would need to go with for that kind of mechanism, for this size of application, would need to be huge. <br><br>I would recommend electric drive, its the only way to get the torque required. Using a drill motor, a worm gear, and a large gear on the cylinder would give you slow speeds and no slippage (worms can't slip backwards.) I would say this is the only practical way to do it. You're saying you want this for a music box, but unfortunately its hard to miniaturize this design any further. I would recommend you take a old music box and maybe try to make a new drum cylinder to play a different tune, a favourite song or something, using the existing notes. I don't know how you would machine something that small and precise, though.<br><br>Its a major challenge. There are a lot of difficult mechanical and practicality issues here.
My plan is to use a modification of your design in roughly the same dimensions as you built it, with a large box below to store the jewelry. I looked at some of the windup mechnanisms after I posted, and it's clear that you're right. No practical way to do it for something of this size. <br> <br>The electric motor solution would work, but I feel that it would detract from the handiwork appearance of the music box, and I don't want her to have to hassle with batteries or an adapter. She won't mind the hand-crank mechanism, I think, so I'll probably just save myself the extra frustration and leave that as-is. <br> <br>I tried my hand at a simpler project (basically a mitered box) to give myself a refresher before I ruin anything of this scale. I'm having a difficult time getting my cheap Skil table saw to cut miters accurately enough to make a box, let alone a cylinder. I think my best bet will be to only use 8 staves in my cylinder, as you have. Any advice on getting the cutting angle just right?
I didn't make the cylinder myself, it was an end piece from a non-load-bearing architectural column. I got it from a local carpenter. I imagine that the staves could be done without too much concern, and that the last one could be hand-shaped to complete the fit. You'll still have to turn it smooth though.<br><br>I haven't got much for suggestions for that, I'm afraid.
if your drum is off by milimeters, why dont you use a lathe to round it off? as for the project it is very well made, ease on the eye and with a professional apearence.
I tried that, but the lathe that it was made on must have been massive. The chuck on the one I have couldn't open wide enough to grab it from the outside, and grabbing it from the inside made a cracking sound. I couldn't grab it tight enough without splitting the wood, and it would never turn true. Nothing I could do.<br><br>Thanks very much for the kind words. Its the community here that helps keep me going.
hello matthegamer <br>out of respect for the be nice policy i will be nice <br>i worked for over 5 years to come up with the idea of the mechanical kalimba <br>look at my blog timmymontanaautomata <br>its is an original idea of mine <br>it is wrong to enter a contest with a strict alchemist idea
Hello,<br><br>Thanks for posting. I have never seen your work, and I do see how it is very similar in concept to what I built. However, I'm sure you're aware that organ grinders have been using &quot;barrel organs&quot; for well over 100 years; now we can agree neither of us invented those.<br><br>This is merely my take on what I did, building a unit that can be re-programmed at will. This is something that the original organ grinders did not allow.<br><br>Also, Instructables isn't about original ideas, its about writing guides to build things so that other people can do so, too. I could write &quot;How to take apart a car&quot; and nobody can say &quot;you didn't invent cars&quot; or &quot;you didn't invent taking things apart&quot; because I didn't claim to. This doesn't need further discussion.<br><br>If you would like to comment more send me a private message. Thanks.<br><br>PS. What is a &quot;strict alchemist idea&quot;?
You could try getting a very large hose clamp to hold the outer diameter steady while clamping to the inside.
Wow! This is great. I want to build one very soon.
Thanks very much. Hope you vote for me!

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