Ever since I was a little kid, I dreamed of flying. My first attempt around age 8, resembled an oversized kite made of tree branches and black plastic. Needless to say It was an unsuccessful attempt at flight, and fortunately for me, the hills near where I grew up weren’t very steep. Since then my desire to fly has only grown stronger, and I have gained the knowledge and saved up enough money to enter the world of powered paragliding (ppg).
To me there is no other feeling like flying. It is the most natural and mind freeing sensation there is. I do enjoy flying in planes (both large and small), but the openness and simplicity of flying a paramotor is second to none. I look forward to new and future forms of flying that allow for even greater freedom, but for now, ppg is pretty darn good.
If nothing else, I think you will enjoy watching the video - even if you have no desire to fly, build a "flying machine", or read an instructable about building a flying machine.
Build and Fly a Paramotor (safely and for cheap) from Sky-Monkey on Vimeo.
Whats the Point?
Paramotoring is primarily done for recreation, however there are a number of practical uses for paramotors. Search and rescue teams have used paramotors for getting into remote areas and flying low to the ground in searches, the Florida Police department utilizes paramotors for beach patrol, they are used for aerial photography, and videography, they are used for advertising, and for entertaining spectators among others things.
How much and How difficult?
Since buying a rather expensive paramotor and taking a number of lessons, I have come to realize how simple paramotors really are. They may appear complicated at first glance, but they are really just a combination of multiple simple pieces that work together.
I built the Frame, Harness, Throttle, Reserve Parachute deployment bag, and Fuel system in under two weeks of evenings and weekends while working a full-time job.
Excluding the engine, propellor, reserve parachute, and parglider (the stuff most people cant make themselves), the project cost under $200 USD. The things I didn't build range broadly based on new/used from $2000 - $5000+ USD
This instructable is meant to be an overview of how I went about making my own paramotor, and to hopefully give others some ideas and inspiration for creating their own (or even just to get people interested in and aware of the sport). A good deal of experience with similar construction techniques is highly recommended as is a good deal of time and patience. Cost is highly variable, however, for this demonstration, I am attempting to do everything for the least possible cost.
I constantly find myself printing out templates from my computer, spray mounting them to plastic, pressboard, foam, and other materials and cutting everything out by hand. I would also love to have something that would cut fabrics for some of the composite and textile projects that I work on. Beyond that, I enjoy making stencils for spraying t-shirts, and graphics onto the stuff I build. Because of this, I would like to be entered into the 4th Epilog laser contest. I am hopeful that this project is viewed by others with as much enthusiasm as I have for making stuff, and for personal flight.
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Signing UpStep 1: Safety and Training
The first and most important thing when considering getting involved in the sport is training. It doesn't matter how safe your equipment is, proper training makes all the difference in the world.
That being said, paramotoring is arguably the safest current form of recreational aviation out there.
Nevertheless, I do not recommend attempting to enter this sport without training. If you can find an instructor who offers training by the lesson vs. a lump fee – Training can be quite inexpensive for those who are dedicated and willing to rehearse what is taught between lessons. Aside from the obvious safety risks associated with not getting proper training – people have scared themselves out of wanting to fly because of bad attempts to “self train.”
Some people never go back to it as a result of bad experiences.
So, bottom line: GET PROPER TRAINING!
My best attempt at a legal disclaimer:
The reader of this instructable should be aware that flying of any type can be very dangerous to the pilot and anyone else nearby. They should also be aware that the material published here is by no means a substitute for proper training or paramotor safety education. Before attempting to replicate any portion of the following project, a thorough understanding of the sport, its fundamental principles, and the equipment necessary to participate in such a sport should be properly obtained and exercised. The author of this article is in no way responsible for the use or interpretation of the following information. The information is intended only as documentation of the authors work, and in no way suggests that others will have similar outcomes by attempting to replicate said work.

























































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This instructable was never meant to be a set of foolproof plans so that anyone, with no similar experience could successfully build one it was meant to be an overview of how I went about making mine, and to hopefully give others some ideas and inspiration. Again, a good deal of experience with similar construction techniques is necessary for attempting a project like this.
can you email me the plans for this unit as id like to build one with some students,pdf good or cad if possible.
regards jon
jonsealey@hotmail.com
Are you a teacher? if so what grade and subject? Tell me a bit about what your plans are.
Thanks for the interest,
Sky-Monkey
You have to add a new header and air intake, re jet the carb, polish the ports, increase the compression by using a gx160 head, advance the timing by filing the flywheel key, and a few other minor tweaks. You should (they say) replace the
standard flywheel with an aluminum one. You don't want the flywheel to disintegrate at 7000 rpm!
It might be possible to dispense with the flywheel to save weight, but you would
have to add a battery. see http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm
The big issue is reduction drive. Eggmotor sells one for ~300 BP. Raket sells
one that might be adapted for 200 Euros. I did a search to see if I could find stock pulleys and belts etc, but didn't have much luck. Learning curve was a bit steep.
I couldn't find where the 180 Redhead was available. It ought to be importable for paramotoring but isn't legal for other apps.
BTW, if you want to fly cheaper, you might consider a nano-trike. The wing might be easier to build than sewing a parasail. It might be easier to get right!
you can contact me at arifdarmawan9@yahoo.com. Thanks
Depending on the design of the frame and the material that you are using, heavier or thinner may be better. ( Aluminum would need to be thicker )
I'm a paragliding pilot and a student of Aerospace engeneering. I saw your project and I realy like it.
Me and my group have to make a solidworkds project and we are thinking to make a project of a paramotor. I would like to ask if you can send me the measures of your paramotor (all rights will be reserved). We will not copy. We just want a general idea of a paramotor project.
Then we can share an ideas.
Please contact me: jfgfreitas@gmail.com
Best Regards.
Congrats.
I have an ATIS Sky XS (DHV 1-2) 2003 model
Here you can see the specs: http://www.para2000.org/wings/sky/atis.html
My questions are:
How much does this kit weight?
Can i use this with my glider? (its a 55-75kg glider and i weight 55kg)
Thanks and sorry for my bad english!
The only real difference between paragliding gliders and powered paragliding gliders is the riser - that being said they can be used interchangeably
As a very generalized rule of thumb, you can figure the smaller the wing and the heavier the weight loading, the faster it will fly and the more power you will need to climb.
Also with a faster wing the take-off and landing speeds are proportionately faster, and more difficult for a new pilot.
To answer your question, Yes you could fly your glider with a paramotor, however I would recommend learning on a bit larger wing that will be a bit slower and more forgiving of learning.
Best of luck, and please ask if you have any further questions.
I was pleasantly surprised with the overall weight of the unit, especially as it is made of hardware store materials.
The motor is a 185cc Vittorazi Moster: http://www.vittorazi.com/en-us/?chiave=Moster-185-Vittorazi
Thanks for the complements
Then comes in power to weight ratio. Those that build their own units end up with having 20 lbs more weight than a high end Flat Top. 20 lbs makes a world of difference in balance and weight on your back and the speed you can run. If you are still alive you might think you got away with building your own but it is a horribly bad idea. Back in the 1970s pretty much everyone built their own and were self taught. That's why still today the horrific reputation for a lack of safety exists. In fact ZERO people have ever died on WPPGA certified paramotor gear. Build it yourself and all that safety goes right out the window only to save... what? Nothing? I'm the current WPPGA Paramotor World Champion and have been in this sport for a very long time. It would be insane to build your own setup when you don't know what you don't know.
Settle down and enjoy a donut http://www.instructables.com/id/Krispy-Kreme-Donut-Doughnut-Recipe/
First point, tell it to the Wright brothers.
I do things MY way for MY own satisfaction and experience Just because everyone else. . . doesn't make it the right way or correct for me.
For hundreds of years houses were constructed with wood pegs and/nails - NOW if you don't have thousands of dollars worth of Simpson Strong Ties you fail inspection. BTW a lot of those old houses are still standing and functional.
I have a machine shop and make rather than buy - it gives me satisfaction, takes up some of my time and can cost ever so much more than retail but it's satisfying.
I'm going to stop here and I hope you get my point. Let those that want to, do it
I live in Hamilton, Ontario so it's only about 160 miles away. It would be great if we could hook up and do some flying. I have one question; do you use SolidWorks or Inventor for your 3D modeling and design.
Take care,
Mike
This is my first scratch-built frame, so I figured it would be smart to mimic aspects of tried and true designs before trying anything overly radical and different (although eventually I have plans to)
It would be great to meet up with you guys and do some flying. Let me know when you are out this way-
how hard is paramotoring to pick up for someone that has never done it before? how dangerous is it as far as loosing control due to some kind of wind gust or other thing out of your control? the closest thing ive done is probably parasailing behind a boat which requires no skill obviously.
also why did you use conduit, besides weight and cost, id think it would be pretty easily bent/damaged compared to some slightly thicker-walled steel tubing for probly not much more weight.. maybe not. im sure aluminum would be ideal but i only have a mig welder.
Paramotoring isn't inherently difficult, however it requires a bit of coordination, time, patience, and practice of proper technique and judgement. Starting out, you should never fly in conditions beyond your skill level. If the wind is gusting, or stronger than what you are comfortable flying in, then you stay on the ground. Conditions can change while you are in the air, but all things considered, it is a safe sport so long as the proper precautions are taken.
Compared to the tubing that many paramotor frames are made of, conduit is significantly stronger as it is. Seriously - it is like a tank compared to some commercially sold frames. If designed properly, the frame should be able to be made of thinner walled tubing, however I used conduit because it is inexpensive and readily available.
The motor cutting out simply means that you will glide back down - as long as you are flying close to a safe landing zone, engine outs aren't a big safety concern.
Motors from other stuff can be modified to work, and it has been done. Most any engine will need a reduction to bring the engine RPM down to a useable speed for the prop used.
If you read through some of the other comments below, there is a lot that goes into the engines for these things
Let me know if I missed answering anything
Thanks for the time and this instructable, I too am inspired to build this.
In an ideal world, you should be able to simply calculate thrust directly from horse power, and horse power should be proportionate to engine size. Unfortunatley however, there are a number of factors that play into the ultimate thrust like reduction ratios, max engine rpm, prop pitch, prop size, drag, etc. and it isn't quite that simple. To further complicate things, many manufacturers fudge numbers to make things seem more impressive than they really are, and ultimately it is tough to guess what you should or shouldn't believe. Engines designed specifically for paramotors are going to produce more thrust per weight and displacement than most engines designed for something else.
I would say that you wouldn't want anything less than 150cc minimum - and likely prefer something in the 180 - 200cc range
150 (actual) lbs of thrust should get you in the air no problem
To further confuse you - the thrust requirement is proportionate to the wing size. The larger the wing you are flying, the less thrust you need to get up and stay up. If you are flying a small wing, you will need to be moving faster to generate the same amount of lift, and ultimately get into the air and stay in the air.
This is probably a lengthier response than you were hoping for, but unfortunately there isn't a simple and quick answer. Feel free to ask for more clarification on anything. I'm happy to help
The amount of stress those welds go under I would assume are quite low, however the majority of stress would be from vibration and those defects (cracks) won't show up for quite some time.
I want to build one of these...
I put a paragraph in the frame step about zinc poisoning and precautions, and doing the welding outdoors with good ventilation. - removing the zinc with the acid would improve that issue dramatically.
Thanks