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Building a drawer slide CNC machine for under $200!

Building a drawer slide CNC machine for under $200!
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Drawer Slide CNC Machine for under $200

 

Like many of us interested in this hobby, I wanted my own machine. But I didn’t want to dive into it, spend $2k plus and have a large paperweight out in my shop. The idea was born for a simple, cheap, somewhat accurate CNC machine that I could modify as I gained knowledge (and funds).

The first step in the process was deciding what hardware I was going to use.

I decided on the TB6560-3 axis driver bought off eBay for $22.00/free shipping. I chose this driver because it was very affordable, and that is how I chose most of the components for this project. Next came the 12V 8.5A Switching Power Supply, also bought off eBay for $14.99/free shipping

For stepper motors, I found a lot of 5 on eBay for $10.00/free shipping. They are small, but they actually have plenty of power for this machine (I’m not milling aluminum and the x-y is quite small).

The spindle is probably the most important part of the machine. If you buy something that has too much run out (movement in the shaft/bearings which makes your cutting tools “wobble”) you will have difficulty achieving any sort of accuracy. This is the mistake I made, I chose a Dremel 100. This is a great tool, don’t get me wrong, but it is made with a plastic housing, and it turns at 35,000 RPM so it has quite a bit of run-out.

There are a lot of misc hardware pieces need to build this machine, but most of which can be found at your local Lowes, Home Depot or local hardware store. I will detail a list of materials needed here:

Also, you will need some sort of software(and obviously a computer) to run the machine and to do drawings. I use Mach3(free... http://www.machsupport.com/) for the controlling software, and I do most of my drawing in Turbo Cad for Mac. There are many choices out there, some more expensive than others.


****EDIT**** I forgot to mention what I would do with the laser cutter if I were to win! I would make a lot of crafts and projects to benefit a not for profit I'm involved with. It's a great organization that helps children increase their self esteem and self confidence.

 

(2) 2”x4”x8’

(2) Pairs of heavy duty drawer slides

(1) small linear slide rail (bought off eBay $5.00/free ship) for Z axis

(1) 2’x2’ 1/8” sheet of luan plywood (could also use Plexiglas)

(1) Sheet of Plexiglas or lexan ¼” to 3/8” 10" x 10"

(1) 3/8”x 3/8”x 36" aluminum angle 3

(1) 3/8” x 36"aluminum U channel

(1) ½” x 1/8”x 3’ aluminum flat stock

(1) ¼”-20 x 3’ Threaded rod (lead screw)

(3) ¼”-20 hex standoffs 2” long

(1) ¼” fuel line hose for coupling motor to threaded rod

(1) Tube of super glue

(4) Wood screws for securing drawer slides to frame

(16) Nuts and bolts 10-24 x 5/8”

(12) Nuts and bolts 8-32 x 3/8”

(2) drill bushings (for lead screw support)

 

Wire:

-For stepper motor hook-up determined by stepper motors (how many wires) and how far your drivers are placed.

-Power cable for power supply (used 3 wire cord of old power tool)

-Small length of 12ga wire for driver power (from power supply) + and –



1. Start by building a 2x4 frame, as shown in the Illustrations.

2. Attach the drawer slides to the frame

3. Glue or weld a small piece of sheet metal (with holes), or plastic to the hex standoff for the lead screws and attach to bottom of both X and Y axis

4. Attach the X axis plywood, luan, or plexiglass

5. Attach the next set of drawer slides to the X axis

6. Attach the Y axis plexiglass (10" x 10") to the drawer slides on the X axis

7. Next, attach the small linear slide to the upper Z support

8. Attach a small piece of plexiglas, or any other rigid material for the Z axis, along with another hex standoff mounted to the back for the lead screw.

9. Depending on your spindle motor choice, you will have to figure out how to mount it. I used a 2" plastic pipe holder, found at Lowes in the plumbing section.

10. Also depending on which stepper motors you choose you will have different options on mounting them. I used aluminum angle to mount them.

82 comments
1-40 of 82next »
May 1, 2012. 6:47 AMsteinesc says:
I've been looking around on eBay for the 3-axis controller. Haven't been able to find any as cheap as you have. Any suggestions as to where else to look?? Thanks! Great project!!
May 4, 2012. 1:16 PMmikerosati says:
I wasn't able to find any of the electronics or motors with the same/similar specs, anywhere near the price the author found them for..

I did however find a Chinese supplier on ebay with a warehouse in the US that I got a 4 axis version of the same controller, and 4 motors for about $100. The cheapest I found anywhere was $85 for the 3..
May 20, 2012. 10:41 AMsteinesc says:
Thanks for the reply. I have been trying ebay and have been looking around for a few months now. I've been wanting to build something else for a project of mine, and have been pushing that off until I have this built, so I can try to build it with the help of the CNC.

I'll just keep looking around.

Thanks!!
May 24, 2012. 1:43 PMgera229 says:
Do you have any backlash with this?

What did you use for the bushings that hold the screws in place?

I see a plastic part with a cylinder in it, but what is that? You didn't specify it in your BOM.
May 24, 2012. 1:44 PMgera229 says:
Also what's the max speed you get with that driver and motors?
May 16, 2012. 11:16 AMmikerosati says:
How is the Z axis supported when the slide isn't fully extended? If you have a pound or two with the slide, mount, and whatever you may use as the spindle (dremel, trim router, etc..) wouldn't that just put all the weight on the screw and motor, which would pull apart?

Thanks :)
Mike
May 17, 2012. 8:17 AMmikerosati says:
Thanks for the reply :)
I wasn't asking about the side to side support though. I was concerned about the vertical - Yes it's on a slide, but what other than the motor and screw is keeping that slide from dropping to full extension? As an example, if I have two pounds of trim router, small mount to connect it to the slide, etc, wouldn't that two pounds be pulling down on the screw, trying to pull it off the motor? Since there is no spring to help alleviate the weight, wouldn't this stress and break the hold made by glue, etc with the coupling hose?
Apr 20, 2012. 11:14 AMdionicia12 says:
I really like this design and I want to try and build one like it but I'm curious as to some of the parts you used.

How long are all the drawer slides that used?
May 4, 2012. 1:13 PMmikerosati says:
They look very similar, if not identical to the slides I purchased from Lowes.. I got 24" heavy duty (up to 100 pounds) for $18 a pair.

I thought it would be a good idea to get the best slides, and use them through upgrading later.. Only $3-5 difference from the smaller/lighter duty ones..
Feb 25, 2012. 3:36 AMabetusk says:
This project really looks great, thanks for the instructable!

Can you speak a bit about the resolution you're getting out of your CNC? Also, you say that you had touble with your Dremel100, is there are Dremel tool that you would recommend that doesn't have as much play? Can you speak a bit about your source for the U channels, threaded rods and other hardware you used in your build?

Sorry for the deluge of questions, but I'm trying to build my first CNC and I'm still trying to get a feel for what kind of hardware and where to purchase it for a reasonable price.
Mar 14, 2012. 4:51 PMacl9865 says:
Can you explain how you attached the output shaft to the threaded rod? If it's just a tight hose it would seem like there would be a lot of potential slip, yet I can't find any metal coupler online that fits a 5 MM output shaft..
Mar 14, 2012. 7:28 AMhamettal says:
i'm almost done building this project but i still wonder.. where did you use the aluminum U channel? xD i'm sorry i read this instructable over and over again and i can't find it!. i have some issues programing with mach 3 :/ i hope to make it work, so i can show you a video :) regards!
Mar 14, 2012. 9:27 AMhamettal says:
omg lol true!! i didn't pay atention to the light bar!!! thanks!! let me check cuz i need some help on mach 3. i want to add a Estop button and limit switches but i'm not sure about how to do it
Mar 14, 2012. 10:38 AMhamettal says:
AWESOME! new instructable? i'm so grateful because you took your time to make this one. I think your plasma cutter will be amazing!
Mar 5, 2012. 8:20 PMnormand861 says:
Hi,Nice project.Can you tell me what is your dip setting for your driver board and put some pictures Please,Thanks
Feb 23, 2012. 2:52 PMhamettal says:
what kind of thing did you use as a base to attach the dremel?
Jan 13, 2012. 12:07 AMusername.neo2 says:
Hey , i am looking for a cnc driver board , i got this one on ebay http://www.ebay.in/itm/CNC-TB6560-3-Axis-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-/250781815058#shId is it possible to that there are other counterfeit boards like the original, i saw a lot of complaints when i googled for its review. Did you faced any issues when you bought that board? thanks
Jan 18, 2012. 6:45 PMElectronics Man says:
I would reccomend the HobbyCNC EZ Driver or the HobbyCNC PRO Chopper Driver. I purchased the EZ driver and I am very pleased.

http://www.hobbycnc.com/
Jan 17, 2012. 3:29 PMbillgeo says:
I think that the wobble you get on the Z axis has something to do with the use of one linear slide, as well as the ranout of the dremel.

The LED worklight is a nice touch though!

GREAT!
Jan 2, 2012. 6:20 AMnickoclaire says:
The runners are called Accuride and they are the side mounted ones. I work for a shop fitting company and we use these all the time.
Dec 24, 2011. 3:42 PMkris2lee says:
I like to know what are you using for the end of the lead screw (picture 9 and 10).

I understand that the plastic thing is just a piece of scrap plastic probably but what is the metal part?
Dec 16, 2011. 8:22 AMhamettal says:
the wood can stand a 4 lb motor?
Dec 23, 2011. 12:10 AMpfred2 says:
My house is made out of wood and so far so good here!
Dec 23, 2011. 7:50 AMhamettal says:
lol true true
Dec 23, 2011. 11:13 AMpfred2 says:
We've been trying but wood is a difficult material to beat. Light, cheap, strong, easy to work. It has its downsides used for machine construction though. Rate of expansion varies depending on a number of factors, such as species, humidity levels, grain orientation. Wood can be awfully resonant too, which is nice if you're making a violin or a guitar, not so nice if you're trying to machine materials though. It is hard to beat the damping qualities of cast iron.

Despite its limitations major machines of the First Industrial Revolution were made out of wood. Now here we are in the post industrial age and some folks still build machines out of the stuff. For many of the same reasons too I might add.

We call this progress? Sometimes I wonder ...
Nov 19, 2011. 1:26 PMbsaunder2002 says:
I'm starting the build of this design today.
Can you tell me the dimensions. Though the cad diagrams look nice, the resolution is too poor to read. I need the dimensions for the:
- base outside 2x4's
- base inside 2x4's
- height of the arm
- lenths of the arm

I modified your arm design by not doing the cutouts. The goal is to just have 2x4's cut to length. I'll sandwich the horizontal arm between two verticle 2x4's. I'll add 2x4 blocks in the verticle arms to keep them spaced correctly and give screw points. This combined with some metal angle brackets (home of the pot has tons) should give me the proper strength. I'm also going to skip cutting out the section to mount the arm to the base and go with screws from the inside and angle brackets on the outside.

Thanks for the good photo's. This probably is the simplest CNC build I've seen. I hope the resolution is enough to cut parts for a gantry CNC.
Dec 15, 2011. 9:56 AMhamettal says:
i have the same problem can tou tell me the dimensions?
1-40 of 82next »

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