BUILD AND RIDE AT YOUR OWN RISK
I am, however, a student in Polymer and Fiber Engineering at Auburn University with access to a composites lab. We have all sorts of fabrics including carbon fiber, fiber glass, kevlar, and all of those in prepreg as well. I got interested in biking from my dad and have always loved to make things. I found a couple instructables on bamboo bikes and decided i would make something similar. I figured I could make a carbon fiber bike if I replaced the bamboo tubes with carbon ones. After a couple failed attempts I made some decent tubes, it really isn't that hard.
Completing the bike has taken about 4 months, but i could make one in three weeks if i were to spend a lot more time on it. I decided to make a fixed gear because of its simplicity. I don't have to worry about a rear brake bridge, clamping the front derailleur on the seat tube, and all of the cable stops. Plus I already have a geared bike.
I didnt know much about composites or bike building when i started this project, but I know a lot more about both now. Having an experienced frame builder also helped a lot. Having a lot of contacts for tools or advice is a must for this.
I encourage anyone who attempts this project to do a lot of research before hand, I did for about 2 months and asked lots of questions to anyone who knew anything about bikes. I used Sheldon brown's website a bunch for info. They have a bunch of singlespeed and fixedgear stuff as well as basically anything to do with bikes.
Some useful sites:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/596392-Bambooo!?daysprune=-1
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-a-Bamboo-Bicycle/
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-I-built-a-carbon-bike-frame-at-home-and-a-bam/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bamboo-Bike-2/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bamboo-and-Hemp-Road-Bike/
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/659162-Bamboo-frame-Worklog-MADE-IN-BRASIL?daysprune=-1
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-simplest-bicycle-framebuilding-jig-I-could-com/
There are two things that you will learn aside from dealing with composites and building bikes; patience and the hatred of sanding.
This is not a project for everyone and not a project you can do in a weekend.
Oh yeah, DON'T GET YOUR BOTTOM BRACKET SHELL BACKWARDS LIKE I DID!
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1Making the Jig
2x4s (scrap will do)
3 "L" brackets (I think 5 inch long)
3 feet of threaded rod (I used M10 x 1.5)
3 cone shapes that fit into the head tube and seat tube
I used a pvc mandrel to hold the bottom bracket shell
6 lock nuts (for rear drop out assembly)
4 regular nuts (for head tube and seat tube assemblies)
6 washers (for rear drop out assembly)
There are 3 vertical 2x4s that hold the head tube, seat tube, bottom bracket, and dropouts. There is a second piece of 2x4 on the back of where the bottom bracket hole goes and where the rear dropout hole goes. I got the measurements from an old bike frame. the cones were made on a lathe out of aluminum stock, I threaded a hole in them so i wouldn't have to use more lock nuts. I drilled a hole for the bottom bracket shell mandrel with a hole saw ( you need a tight fit so it wont move), the pvc was turned down from 1.5 inch so that the bottom bracket just fit. The droputs fit nicely onto the M10 rod. I drilled a hole through the 2x4s for the rod and put a washer and lock nut on both sides. the dropouts are secured with a washer and lock nut on each side. If i continue to make bikes I'll upgrade the jig to extruded aluminum, that way I can make different sizes.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |


























































Installing the Drive arm on left side makes no difference in unthreading of the BB.
As you might have mentioned its the bearing that puts counter spin on the torque applied to the shell that unscrews the BB flipping the side of drive would make no difference. (In fact as you've experience it creates additional problem of having your pedal come loose)
In reality, tightening the BB super ***ing tight (40nm is a lot more torque than most people realize) and bit of Red locktite or similar threadlocker and you might not even have to use the YST threadless BB. (For example, Italian BB with 70mm shell width has right hand thread on both side of the shells. So the driveside would come loose if you don't torque it properly.) Oh, don't forget to check the torque every once in a while.
I have really enjoyed reading your post!
I suggest you use YST threadless B.B (They stopped making this couple of years ago but last batch is still going around so ask around your local bike shop) with plenty of Grey Locktite for press fitting.
Hope this helps!
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/bottom-brackets/grand-cru-threadless-bottom-brackets.html
Is this what you are talking about?
>G
I used a regular twill for the down tube and the top tube. for the seat tube I used a unidirectional for two layers then a twill for two layers. I will eventually post a video or more steps on the making of the tubes. The stays are a wooden dowel wrapped with unidirectional fabric (the fibers are parallel to the dowel) then vectran braided over that to compress it.
What do you think the total cost for parts was?
The fabric will cost you a couple hundred. It looks like you can get fabric from US Composites, they have a discount section on their homepage. If you dont mess up on the tubes you will probably use 5 yards of a 30 inch wide fabric. But I scrapped a couple tubes on my first tries. You also need tow. Its like a yarn of carbon fibers. I read on some instructables that they got this stuff from ebay?
I didn't get cheap parts stuff because I plan to use most of it for a long time
All of the parts on the bike cost about $500. I basically got new everything. The only things that weren't bought on the bike are seat, handlebar, stem, and pedals. you can definitely go a lot cheaper. Look for stuff on craigslist or ebay or in your local bike shop.
My friend is a machinist and built aluminum molds for his frame. He also made silicone bladders to inflate on the inside to compress fabric together which can easily handle 60 psi. The parts are molded separately, but each part incorporates the joints into them so that they don't need to spend time locating them later. Maybe try building a re-usable PVC mold that incorporates the joints. If you cut and pieced together a PVC frame (where the inside diameter was your final outside carbon dimension) in the same way that you put together the carbon bike frame, you'd essentially have a PVC bike. From there, you could cut it at locations that were better for bonding the carbon later, and create molds from the other pieces. I realize you'd be unable to remove parts from molds with angles in them, so you'd have to cut the molds to make a parting line where you could remove the final part. This way, you'll have control over your fiber orientations at the joints and where there are discontinuities in the frame. Good luck!