Build an easy, portable 3' x 8' wooden bookshelf in about 20 minutes, with a minimum of tools and less than 1% waste, for about $60. The basic concept can be modified to create any size shelf system needed.

For a similar bed see: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-platform-bed/
For a similar dining table see: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-easy-low-waste-trestle-table/

As a professional carpenter, furniture maker, and designer/builder, I see a lot of home carpentry projects that are grossly overbuilt and over-engineered. One of the goals of this Instructable is to avoid the unnecessary overbuilding that I frequently see on this site, and that I see every day working in the residential construction industry. Many of the building methods we (in the US) use today are horribly wasteful despite the advances that have been made in materials science and structural engineering, because most people in the residential building industry, from architects and engineers to carpenters, are mired in tradition, doing things a certain way "because that is how it has always been done", rather than consulting the best available science, or even questioning their own assumptions about "the right way to do it". I don't intend to knock tradition, either. Many of the tricks, techniques, and tools that I use daily are definitely "old-school", but seem to have been forgotten.

Thanks to my father for introducing me to this style of shelving, and who built a particularly fine example (using stained fir 2x4s and 2x12s, black washers, and brass acorn nuts) which is at least 25 years old and still in use.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

You will need:

(4) 8'  1x8  #2 and better pine
(2) 12' 1x4 #2 and better pine
(16) 9-3/8" long pieces of 1/4-20 all-thread rod (about 13')
(32) 1-1/4" fender washers
(32) 1/4-20 "acorn" or "cap" nuts
(1) 1/4-20 wingnut

My material cost was:
Lumber $39.62
Hardware $18.24
Total: $57.86

Hand or power saw for wood
Hand or power saw for metal
        (You can often have these items cut for a minimal fee at your local lumberyard)
Tape measure
9/32" drill bit for wood
Two 7/16" wrenches, or two adjustable wrenches, or a 7/16" wrench and a 7/16" socket and driver

Awl, nail, or centerpunch

<p>This bookshelf is fantastic. It is sturdy, attractive.. The hardest part was cutting the threaded steel rod by hand, and finding the appropriate hardware at the hardware store. I ended up having to go to the store twice to get parts when I miscalculated what I would need. There was a very specific space in my wall I needed the shelf to fit in, so I ended up altering the plans slightly to fit my needs.<br><br>I used pine since it was cheap, but paid a little extra to get some high quality straight boards for the shelves. I sealed it with some very transparent glossy stain. I managed to build this without any saw horse or woodworking table by cutting the boards with a hand saw, and drilling the holes with my cordless drill in my small kitchen, using storage totes as tables. I accidentally drilled into my kitchen floor a bit when drilling the holes. Don't tell my landlord! That was super derpy of me, but it allowed me to work on it in the winter, at night time, while it was raining and cold outside.<br><br>Overall, this project was fun to do. The instructions were excellent, and the bookshelf is very sturdy, and a great visual piece in my living room. Thank you for the Instructable!</p>
<p>Thanks for the photos. I've drilled more than one hole in something I didn't intend to, so don't feel too bad about it.</p>
<p>Other than drilling a bunch of holes and using a dremel tool to cut some 5/16&quot; threaded rod, this was a very low intensity build! I bought the lumber in the sizes that I'd use, so nothing needed to be cut - I used pine boards, 1x3x6 for the side pieces and 1x10x6 for the shelves. The threaded rod was 36&quot; long and I cut it into 12&quot; pieces; each piece had a two washers (one at each end) along with an acorn cap nut on the front face of the shelves and a wing nut on the side by the wall.</p><p>The whole thing went together so smoothly and easily - I can't recommend this instructable enough.</p><p>Oh, and as for the sturdiness... It's awesome!</p>
<p>thanks for the photos, and I'm glad you like it.</p>
<p>Brilliant design. Cheap and easy, as promised. Also nice and stable. I don't have any real tools so I made mine 8' tall x 8' wide x 8&quot; deep. No wood cutting necessary. For the threaded rods, I just bought a $6 hacksaw and a $6 clamp when I bought the lumber and hardware. I put the rods between blocks of scrap to avoid damaging the threads.</p><p>8&quot; is a little narrow for something so tall, so I'd make it at least 10&quot; deep next time around. I spaced several of the shelves 12&quot; apart in order to accommodate some larger books that I have. Finally, while I used cap nuts on the front side (available at both the Ace Hardware and the Home Depot near my house) I used regular nuts on the back. That way I didn't have to worry about punching through the cap nuts.</p>
We'd been meaning to build these for over a year to replace a bulky entertainment center plus some cobbled together shelving for our TV wall. With a new 32&quot; panel TV that only needed an 8&quot; front-to-back shelf, this looked like a good choice! Since we live in rented housing, we couldn't attach anything to the walls but wanted something large enough to cover an exactly 8' x 8' wall without protruding the 27&quot; into the narrow living room that the old furniture had while being &quot;knock down-able&quot; for future moves. Main problem = no real workspace for 8' uprights. <br>We finally did it! <br>My parents have the space and Dad has the tools -- a drill press, forstner bits and a long workbench were pretty essential. We decided to use countersunk 2x4s as uprights. This eliminated the need for pricey cap/acorn nuts while still leaving the all-thread ends 'protected' on the outside and allowing us to put it flush against the wall without causing damage. <br> <br>Dad was SOOO concerned that there wasn't any way they weren't going to go rhombus and kept trying to over-engineer the project (my husband wasn't so certain, either!) but I stuck to my guns and followed the plans I'd &quot;modified&quot; to my specs -- 92&quot; uprights (so as not to actually wedge against the ceiling), with 3/4&quot; washers plus lock washers and plain old hex nuts in a 1&quot; wide hole countersunk to 1/2&quot; depth, 1x10 shelves and my brother just happened to have salvaged massive amounts of 1/4&quot; all-thread that Dad cut to 12&quot; lengths for us. <br> <br>Because we needed to fit a 32&quot; wide TV into the center of the whole shebang, we spaced the uprights further out from the center and eliminated a couple of shelves from just that center section...making 8&quot; tall shelves on either side suitable for DVDs. <br>I also had the brainstorm to use two nail-in furniture &quot;feet&quot; on the bottom of each 2x4 on the front side so as to compensate for the carpet tack strip on the back edge and to make the shelves lean ever so slightly into the wall. I thought we might have to anchor the top of it to the wall, but with the feet, it stands very firm with absolutely no signs of wanting to tip forward! I felt great satisfaction when the almost 150 square inches of friction applied allowed for NO racking -- I could practically climb the end without anything budging! <br> <br>We now have over 58 linear feet of shelving (with space under for shoes) for that wall that barely protrudes 12.25&quot; into the room for a total cost of about $125! We plan to make at least two more units to accommodate the more than 15,000 books we own that are currently on store bought or cobbled shelving and in boxes plus have display space for our many collections Our only problem...we didn't take into account the depth of the shelf itself -- if you've got 10&quot; between holes, you actually only get 9 1/8&quot; of useable height on the shelf (most hardback books are 9.5&quot; tall) = major bummer! We measured (from bottom) 12&quot;, 12&quot;, 10&quot;, 10&quot;, 9&quot;, 9&quot;, 10&quot;, 10&quot; with top shelf at 13&quot; from the ceiling. <br> <br>(The shelves are only partially populated in the second pic because of our plans to get the other units done soon -- we knew we'd have to have space to move what we DO have on the other wall somewhere while we build) <br> <br>Sorry for the long description...we're just so excited to have finally done this and how very well it works for us! <br> <br>
Very helpful additional info . Another book lover too , we just moved and pared our collection down to about 8,000 books .
This may be the best comment I have ever received on one of my projects. Thanks, and thanks for the photos. Good for you for sticking to your guns; see what I mean about everyone wanting to over-engineer everything?
Made this bookshelf with a little alterations. I made it 8'x8'. There was no cutting involved because I bought 8' 1x3's. There are 8 shelves of slightly varying heights. If I did it again I would have about 12 shelves on the 8' but we will stack on this. I stained it using a poly-stain. Thought this would take less time. I will never use this again. It left drips all over the place..even though I was being careful. I would have been better off using stain then polyurethane. I also made the mistake of bying oil based (rushing in the store). Didn't realize until I went to wash my hands. If you ever do this...I found out that cooking oil followed by dishsoap works great to take oil based paints off your hands. I also used 5/16&quot; rod because there wasn't any flex and I was making the shelves so big (used a 5/16&quot; drill bit too so the fit was a little tight :) . Couldn't find the acorn nuts after 4 stores so I ordered them on Ebay ($10 inc shipping for a box of 50). Only put them on front because I needed 64. I also put metal cable on the ends (drilling two holes at the end of each shelf and x'ing it) so the books wouldn't fall off (got this idea from the poster who used clothesline). It cost a little over $200 when done (CT prices are high) but it is much sturdier than a Melemie shelf that would have been this price. My husband did not not believe it wouldn't &quot;rack&quot; but it is VERY sturdy. Will be making more.
oops...forgot photo
Looks good, and like it fits the space well. Thanks for the photo. I tried the poly/stain combo stuff once, years ago, and decided that it was junk. I've been having good luck recently with stain conditioner, stain, and Sherwin-Williams Fast Dry varnish. The varnish is good stuff and lays down nicely.
Just built a bookshelf with your method. 1800mm high and 1200mm wide. It was easy. 2 and a half hours and $170 worth of materials. Glued strips of wood to the back of the shelves to stop books going through. It's incredibly sturdy but I live in Christchurch so we'll see how it survives through a few earthquakes.
Thanks for the photos, and the prospects of field testing. The town I live in was destroyed by earthquakes in the 1930s, but we haven't had anything significant since then.
So far its survived a couple of 5's, several 4+'s and dozens of 3+'s and it's still as solid as the day I put it together. Hasn't budged an inch. Hugely satisfied with the design.
Here is the one I built. Had to sand my lumber &amp; decided to stain it. Hardware store did not have acorn nuts so I used regular nuts &amp; will order acorn nuts. Hardware store was out of 1 1/4&quot; washers so I used 1 1/2&quot;. Simple, cheap, sturdy, &amp; useful. I like it! Thanks for sharing the plans.
This worked like a charm and I love the simplicity. I'll definitely continue using the design, Thanks for the great instructable.
Thanks. Excellent corner application. What are the specifics? Are the shelves themselves joined in any way? Mitered? Butted? Splined? Pocket screwed?
here's my 6x6 version build with #2 pine. shelves are 1x10 and threaded rod upsized to 5/16&quot; to allow for extra width. center upright spaced at 1/3 side to side. this is very complex structurally - all the commenters who don't believe it should build it to really feel how it works. it is basically like a post-tensioned high rise. i think i'd like to paint the uprights and stain the shelves.
Good analogy, and thanks for the pics. I'm a big fun of the judicious and appropriately proportioned use of asymmetry. Looks good.
Made a nice set of shelves (30&quot; tall x 8 ft) over 2 weekends. Home Depot cut the lumber, and I borrowed a hacksaw to cut the all-thread. <br>Sanding and staining the pine was more of a hassle than I thought it would be. I lost patience so it ended up kind of blotchy but the functionality is still fine. Didn't have a 9/32&quot; drill bit so just used a 1/4&quot; and it was a tight squeeze on the allthread but still worked fine. Nice &amp; sturdy, glad to get all my books off the floor and organized. <br>Thanks for the very nice instructable.
Looks good. Thanks for the photos. With pine (or other species with inconsistent density) using a pre-stain conditioner really helps to even out the &quot;blotchiness&quot;.
thank you, thank you, thank you!! the lumber that i had in the garage wasn't exactly what your plans called for (2x4s and 1x10s), so i adjusted the length of the all thread to accommodate the depth. also, one of my 2x4s was kind of wonky and i was worried it would jeopardize the stability of the set - but it's totally solid! the shelves are level and aren't going anywhere!! :) (i threw all of my body weight against it, and it's totally solid!) it's approx. 4' wide by 7.5' tall.<br><br>oh yeah, and buying a bunch of cap nuts is not so easy unless you order ahead of time. i went to two hardware stores (one family owned and one big box) and they kind of laughed at me when i said i needed 32. so i got regular nuts, tightened them so they were flush with the all thread on the front side, hammered it against the board and tightened the back side while holding the front one in place with a wrench. so, some of them have a little bit of overhang on the back side, but i don't have to worry about gouging skin while walking past it. for my next set, i'll order the cap nuts in bulk from ebay ahead of time...
i said &quot;totally solid&quot; twice [blush]. i guess i'm excited :)
Dear Aeray, <br>First thanks so much for your instrucables. So enjoy them. I've done the bed and will send pics later. Most recently did the bookshelves. Had about 20 boxes of books after a move and nowhere to put them. Did 3 sets of your shelves and emptied the book boxes in a day. Pics included. THANKS! <br>- MaryAnn
Extensive! Thanks for the pics!<br>Something about very long/low or very high/narrow bookshelves has always intrigued me but I haven't yet had the opportunity or space to build any.
Just build a 6'x6' version using the techniques in this 'ible. It looks great and works great! I used 6 lengths each of 1&quot;x10&quot; and 1&quot;x4&quot;, both 6' long, and spaced the shelves to get on 18&quot; shelf, one 16&quot; shelf, and three 12&quot; shelves. Mine cost a bit more (~$100 lumber and hardware), but the shelves went from concept to finished in only a few hours. Thanks a lot!
Pics would be great.
Here are a two views of the 6x6 shelves I built. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this. I've been looking for a simple solution like this for years. It's brilliant.
Tks, Aeray. I was scratching my head trying to convince myself that I must build a tools/nails/equipment shelf unit in our basement.<br>Your instructions seem idiot proof so within the next two weeks I should be able to place all my bits and pieces on shelves and more importantly, be able to find them when I need to.<br>Bravo!
Post some photos when you're done.
Would 2x2 material be strong enough if used as the upright supports? I did not see any mention of adding grooves that will ride over the all thread to keep the shelves in place. Is that not needed? My initial plan is to use 12&quot; wide boards with 2x2 uprights and to make the bookshelf 5' to 6' tall by 60&quot; wide. <br> I had also thought about adding some moulding to &quot;jazz&quot; it up a bit.
The 2x2s would be strong enough, but there might not be enough contact area between the upright and the shelf. The uprights clamp the shelves in place, and the friction between the shelf and upright is what keeps the whole unit from &quot;going rhombus&quot; (as starwalk put it). If you use 2x2s, there will be less surface area in contact, and less friction. And no, no grooves are necessary in the shelves, for the reasons mentioned above.
have you tried this with 12&quot; shelves, or just the 8&quot;? this looks like a good replacement solution for my &quot;milk crate shelves&quot; (at least if it will hold 12&quot;). also, very nice 'ible. looks easy duplicatable.
Thanks. 12&quot; shelves should work fine, even with 1x material. If you need to dramatically increase the spans between uprights, or really dramatically increase the load-carrying capacity (like to hold bricks), you could use 2x material, but it shouldn't usually be necessary.
You should also double-check the length of your all-thread rods. I'd dummy one up and try it out before cutting all of them. It needs to be just long enough to catch a couple of threads and snug down without punching out through the cap nut. The actual &quot;cap&quot; portion of cap nuts is fairly thin, and if the all-thread is even a bit too long it will punch through the end when you snug it up
<p>what do you think of this mod? I would like to span an 80 inch bed frame at the foot of the bed. the bookcase would just hold a TV. there is only 1 foot of space from end of bed frame to wall, so if I want to use 12 wide shelves, the legs must come down past the width of the bed frame. the bookcase would only be 39 inches high, and it would only have a top shelf for the TV and a bottom shelf that would just be used to keep it rigid. even though the TV only weight 20 pounds, I was planning on using a 2 x 12 on top because of the large span. </p>
<p>I just built my first one, and I am now going to build my second one. Nothing could be easier. In fact, it's so easy to build that it does have one shortcoming: satisfaction. Yes, it's so easy that building it doesn't leave you with the feeling of satisfaction and pride that a more difficult one does. The main thoughts are, &quot;Where has this been all my life,&quot; and &quot;Why aren't more bookcases built this way&quot;? Anyway, I do have two questions:</p><p>(1) At the very end of the instructions, there is the following: &quot;I know of an 8' tall 12' long version of these shelves ...fully loaded with hundreds of books&quot;. My question is, are the verticals 1x4s like this one? I ask this because I was thinking of building my THIRD bookcase in another way, but your way is so easy and foolproof that I may end up building three bookcases with your method. I do need to know, though, if 1x4s are strong enough for an eight-foot high fully loaded bookcase.</p><p>(2) For me, the most time-consuming part of building the bookcase was using a hacksaw to cut sixteen pieces of all-thread rod to size. The pre-cut pieces available from my local Home Depot are 12-1/4&quot; long, and I need pieces 11-3/8&quot; long for 1&quot;x10&quot;x8' shelves. The easiest solution is, I believe, to use wingnuts (I'd add lock washers to be sure) in the rear facing the wall rather than cap nuts. That way, you don't need to worry about cutting the exact length. You might end up with half an inch, or so, of protruding rods, but so what. They are in the rear and out of sight. </p>
The big version, built in the mid-eighties, uses 2x4's for the uprights, and 2x10's for the shelves, and 3/8 allthread rod. It is 12' long, and yet has only 5 uprights. Wing nuts will work fine; the &quot;big version&quot; uses cheaper plain nuts on the backside with brass acorn nuts on the front. The front washers are also painted flat black, and the whole unit is stained with Minwax Fruitwood stain. Lock washers won't be necessary.<br><br>I am sorry you feel unfulfilled by this project; try my trestle table design for a bit more of a challenge.
<p>How long would the all thread rod need to be cut for this type of build?</p>
<p>aeray,</p><p>I don't like the idea of anchoring things to the wall. The next owner might not want the shelves, or the effort involved to conceal the holes. Because of this, and for experimentation, my next three bookcases were not built according to your plans; instead, I built them the standard way, but I built them so as to lean against the wall (the bottom shelf is six inches from the wall while the top shelf rests against it). An earthquake that would topple these shelves would also topple the house. Anyway, my bookcase is eight feet wide by eight feet high and the sheves are 13 inches deep. Since I am a beginner in these things, I probably overbuilt because of fear. I used 2x4s for the back posts and 2x3s for the front. The shelves are 1/2&quot; plywood. I didn't use your method because I don't think it would work if leaned against the wall. I very much like your system, but I just don't think it would hold up if used in the way that I hae described above. It might, but I would always be expecting its imminent collapse. I might add that I had a tough time sawing the proper angles into the lumber so that they fit properly. As I look at the shelves now, I wonder why, but I do remember many times shouting, DAMMIT! when I discovered that I had miscalculated. And I did so well in HIgh School Geometry. One last thing: the bookcases contain seven fully loaded shelves, and they give me no cause for worry.</p>
<p>This is the best shelf idea I've ever seen, thank you! I've been looking for a relatively inexpensive and easy solution for a particular wall in my home. So glad I found this, because I was about to go basement-utility-shelf in my living room. I want to do an 8' x 10' for books, binders, bins of toys, a printer, and whatever else I can throw on it. Are the 2x's necessary for this or will 1x's with 5 uprights be sufficient for the load? I don't live in an earthquake-prone region. ;) Also, was this size anchored to the wall, or just butted up against it?</p><p>I was thinking of doing multiple boards on each shelf to increase the depth to 16&quot;; are there any potential issues with that? And if I needed to remove lower shelves, would the threaded rod alone maintain stability?</p>
<p>Others have built them that big with just 1x. If you are going to fill it completely with books, I'd upgrade to 2x uprights and shelves. You could just do 4 uprights then. Yes, it should be anchored to the wall. Since posting this, I have had children, and I even anchor the ones shown in this 'ible to the wall. </p><p>Multiple boards per shelf will not work unless you screw crossways cleats to the undersides every few feet to tie them together. It also will not maintain stability if you remove the lower shelves, no matter what.</p>
<p>aeray,</p><p>The first shelf-set I ever built required eight eight-foot 2x4s for legs. I thought that was excessive, but since that was one of the first things I had ever built, I followed the design to the letter. After I finished, I still thought that the design was overkill, so I decided to build lighter next time. I'm going to follow that philosophy with my next bookcase. It will be over six feet high but it will use eight six-foot+ 1x4s for legs, and it will use eight-foot long 3/4&quot;x10&quot; wide plywood strips for shelves. I'm tempted to use your design, but for appearances sake, I'll probably use a design I tested with a 24&quot; wide model. Nothing could be as easy to build as your design, but I think it's better for garages than living rooms. I still can't get over how easy it is. I've even been thinking of having bookcase building contests. I was shooting for twenty minutes today with my second bookcase, but I made some dumb mistakes along the way that scotched my record breaking attempt. Maybe next time.</p><p>After finishing the second bookcase built to your design, I can heartily recommend the use of wing nuts in lieu of acorn nuts for the side against the wall. Using them is superior in every way. They're easier to use and faster, and they make a better, more secure connection. Also, rod lengths need not be precise. Every thing considered, I would never again use acorn nuts for the rear.</p><p>Finally, I have to say that I'm having a ball with these projects. I'm seventy-six, but these are really the only things of any consequence that I've ever built, and I'm loving it. My next one will use the same design as others I have built, but after that I will try something more challenging. To build it, I'll have to use a router which I bought for the purpose (I have never used a router, so it should be sufficiently challenging). This will probably be my last bookcase for awhile, but it will be a dozy. It will be a six-foot lean-against-the-wall type, but the really interesting thing about it is that it will consist of parts that are assembled or disassembled like a Chinese puzzle (interlocking parts). No screws, nails, wires, or glue, but there it stands, and when you move, you just just disassemble it and pack it away. It will be a challenge.</p>
<p>good on ya, and keep building! </p>
Also, I realize that using all acorn nuts is more difficult, but I wanted to have the option (or give others the option) of using the shelf in a freestanding configuration.
<p>aeray,</p><p>2 by what?</p>
2x4 uprights, 2x whatever for the shelves. 2x12 is the widest commonly available in the US. It is actually 11-1/4&quot; wide.
Thank you so much for this instructable. I have never built anything in my life, and my husband and my father both scoffed when I said I was going to build this (which only made me want to build it more)! It is exactly the bookcase I have always wanted. I can't stop looking at it and marveling at the fact that I made it! It is gorgeous and incredibly sturdy. I think I am going to make another one for my classroom and smaller ones for other rooms in my house! Thank you so much again.
<p>nice touch with the washers, and thanks for the photos.</p>