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Here's how I made a two tone Gold and Platinum engagement ring start to finish. In this particular ring the center stone is a Diamond, the bezel is Platinum and the ring shank is 18k rose Gold. The ring shank is carved in wax and is cast using the lost wax process and the bezel is formed from flat stock.
Every job begins at the jeweler's bench. Jewelers use a LOT of tools! The bench has multiple files, sanding sticks, pliers, hammers, brazing torch, flex shaft and wax carving tools. In addition to these tools there are things like a polishing motor, ultrasonic cleaner, rolling mill and a casting machine.
The first step is carving a wax pattern for the ring shank. This is carved from a green wax using a wax saw blade, files and burrs with a flex shaft. The real trick is keeping the design symmetrical.
The wax is then cast in 18k rose Gold. This is done using the lost wax process. The wax pattern is sprued, placed into a steel flask and then put into the burnout furnace overnight. The next morning the ring shank is cast using a centrifugal casting machine and the shank is cleaned up using files and sandpaper. The inside of the ring is also reamed out/finished to the proper ring size and the shank is polished to make sure it is free of defects.
The next step is making the Platinum bezel. Platinum stock is rolled out to the correct size using a rolling mill and a bezel is formed to the proper shape in order to hold the stone. The bezel is welded using a gas torch and the shape is refined using a mandrel and then filed and sanded to the final shape. The finished bezel is then polished using Platinum polishing compounds and is soldered to the ring shank using Gold solder. The stone is then set by cutting a seat in the bezel, inserting the stone and using a burnishing tool to tighten the stone.
The bezel then receives a final polish, the ring shank is given a brushed finish and after a cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner the ring is done! If anyone has any questions about materials or processes just ask!
Every job begins at the jeweler's bench. Jewelers use a LOT of tools! The bench has multiple files, sanding sticks, pliers, hammers, brazing torch, flex shaft and wax carving tools. In addition to these tools there are things like a polishing motor, ultrasonic cleaner, rolling mill and a casting machine.
The first step is carving a wax pattern for the ring shank. This is carved from a green wax using a wax saw blade, files and burrs with a flex shaft. The real trick is keeping the design symmetrical.
The wax is then cast in 18k rose Gold. This is done using the lost wax process. The wax pattern is sprued, placed into a steel flask and then put into the burnout furnace overnight. The next morning the ring shank is cast using a centrifugal casting machine and the shank is cleaned up using files and sandpaper. The inside of the ring is also reamed out/finished to the proper ring size and the shank is polished to make sure it is free of defects.
The next step is making the Platinum bezel. Platinum stock is rolled out to the correct size using a rolling mill and a bezel is formed to the proper shape in order to hold the stone. The bezel is welded using a gas torch and the shape is refined using a mandrel and then filed and sanded to the final shape. The finished bezel is then polished using Platinum polishing compounds and is soldered to the ring shank using Gold solder. The stone is then set by cutting a seat in the bezel, inserting the stone and using a burnishing tool to tighten the stone.
The bezel then receives a final polish, the ring shank is given a brushed finish and after a cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner the ring is done! If anyone has any questions about materials or processes just ask!
My wife and I have custom made wedding bands, made by a friend as a wedding gift, and designed by my wife and I. Until your 'photo-essay' instructable I had no idea what went into the process.
Thank you for answering questions that I have had for over 15 years, but never bothered to ask.
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I have to say it's a pretty neat job to have and I'm very fortunate to have a job where I get to work with my hands and have such a wide variety of work- plus I get to play with fire and dangerous chemicals! It's also a lot of fun to able to sit down with someone and make something that is just for them.
Years later, their daughter (my grandmother) married a man who happened to be somewhat of a jack of all trades. After learning his mother-in-law (my great grandmother) had no wedding ring, he got some gold together and made a wedding band for her.
Many years after that, right before her death, she gave that wedding band to my mother and told her she hoped I would wear it when I got married. I've been married now for almost 20 years, and I hope to pass the ring down to my son's bride, whenever he marries.
It feels kind of magical to have a ring with this sort of history to it. Every time I look at it, I remember all the love and wear that has gone into it- the years of cooking, of holding children and grandchildren, even great-grandchildren. I also like to think about the years ahead of it, and the hands that will wear it.
Thanks for showing us how a ring like this can come into being.
A while ago I saw hereiam's beautiful instructable for making mokume gane rings, [0], and I've been thinking about following that for our wedding bands, but I have no experience making jewelry and no jeweler's tools. I'm hoping to find a workshop or school somewhere nearby that will let me use their equipment and maybe help me learn. Does anyone here have any suggestions for how I should go about doing this?
Anyway, wonderful instructable, Honus. You make beautiful art.
[0] http://www.instructables.com/id/Matching-14kt-Gold-Mokume-Gane-Wedding-Rings/
I do a lot of repairs and reconstruction with vintage rings and jewelry that have been in families for a century or even longer and it's always great to hear the stories that people tell.
One time I had someone come in with a very old family ring that was severely damaged- well beyond the point of recovery. Luckily the person had photos of the original ring so I was able to hand fabricate a new ring from scratch to match the old ring. Here's a photo of that ring during construction- it was a complex one to recreate!
And yes she was thrilled with the ring! It's always neat to present it to the person and see their reaction. After all these years I still get nervous because I really want people to be happy with the finished product. Engagement rings are a big deal for a lot of people and I want to exceed the customer's expectations. It is unbelievably important to me that people are happy with the finished product and it so great when you get that initial reaction and know that they are thrilled with the work. :)
Here's some more pics for you. The Emerald earrings are hand fabricated from 18K wire- the color doesn't show that well as they're really much more intense green in person. The next ring is Ruby/Diamond. The solitaire engagement ring was hand fabricated in Platinum for a co worker- that head was pretty tricky to make! The last one has little bitty .8 mm Diamonds in it- my eyes were pretty shot after setting those!
I really am blown away by your work. The detail is so nice. See, I'd love to see how that last one was made! Guess I'm wanting the moon there... *laughs* That's not your quickie half-hour ring! :D
That desire alone helps define the difference between a craftsman and an artisan.
Please, keep sending us instructable with images of your great work.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hand-made-Platinum-engagement-rings/
Our shop at work was recently completely destroyed due to a fire in the restaurant next door and we're in the process of rebuilding it. Should be back up and running pretty soon. March was a very interesting month to say the least!
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product.php?productid=3368&cat=730&page=1
If you're not careful you can definitely melt the 18KGold ring shank as the solder flow temp of 18K hard solder is really close to the melting point of the actual 18K Gold alloy. It does get tricky when joining thick sections of Gold to Platinum as they cool at different rates and the joint can crack if it isn't done right.