- Maximum Output Power: 68W RMS - 108W Peak
- Frequency Response: 7Hz-25kHz (Filtered ⇒Linkwitz)
- THD: %0.03 at 60W
- SNR: 110dB at 60 W - 92.5dB at 1W
- Output Class: AB-A (Conjugate)
- Auxiliary Features: DC/AC Short circuit protection and thermal protection.
- Working Voltage/Power: 12-94 Volts (Dual Rail), 1-10 Amperes
- Audio Features: Input Mute Funtion (100% silent = no input)
Too bad I had a late documentation, that's why I only have a few pictures of the steps and procedures. Due to the late documentation, I had to get images from the original source. Some of the pictures are not mine, there are no claims that the PCB designs are mine nor the diagrams, although there where some modifications made by me for the amp.
What Is A Gainclone?
Back in 1999, relatively unknown manufacturer 47-Labs released the "Gaincard" to rave reviews. It immediately caused controversy because it was based around a $5 power amplifier IC (Integrated Circuit), yet a typical setup would cost you around $3300. A Gainclone in the other hand refers to any DIY amplifier that uses a LM3875/ LM3886 as it's main component.
What's So Special About It?
The gainclone only uses small amounts of space, it's built with a minimal supply of components, yet giving a great HiFi result. It beats the hell out of those modern HiFi amps, it produces 2x68 watts of power, with a Total Harmonic Distortion of 0.03%THD and built on a 2x3 PCB board! So why doesn't the audio industry use it? I'm not really sure. All of these sounds "too good to be true", I recommend this project for those who are still starting on their DIY HiFi amp hobby, since it only uses some few components.
What's A Power Amp?
A power amp is a amplifier with no preamp, volume control, tone control, or any auxiliary devices attached to it. It's just pure simplicity.