Ever since I was very very small I love Lego. Those sweet memories of me and my mom sitting together on the floor surrounded by Lego's, following instructions and building our Lego city together. I have been playing with Lego since my first memories.
As I grew older I promised myself, like any other tinker person would. That one day I would make my own Lego's.
So now it is time to cash in on that promise.
I noticed that a lot of people like to cut up a.k.a. mess up Lego's for all sorts of USB projects and then some.
Like every other Lego enthousiast I consider this one of the largest sins ever. So "YOU PEOPLE" no need any more to destroy perfectly good Lego's, MAKE YOUR OWN. Of course when making our own Lego's you can make them out of all sorts of cool materials too; wood, steel, plastics, aluminum etc. etc.
The only thing we can not do is put the Lego trademark on our blocks, well you can but I do not want to infringe up on the Lego trademark.
Here is a time lapse of the build
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Signing UpStep 1: Aids, tools and materials
A bunch of new Lego blocks
Tools:
Calliper
Trusted CNC mill
Clamping tools
Swivel gauge (if any body knows the correct English name for this tool)
40mm face mill
2mm flat end mill
1mm flat end mill (optional)
Cleaning wheel and cleaning paste
Polishing rag and some polishing paste.
Materials:
A block of something
(well I don't want to limit your mind here)
I will be using some aluminium scraps, or maybe some wood scraps, I'll decide later in this Instructable.










































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So if I had to do these things by hand, I probably would not do small fun projects like this.
For me we live in the technological golden age and I am very great full to be here with all of you.
For me we live in the technological golden age and I am very great full to be here with all of you.
Other than that good job. ;-)
I have also considered using some Legos to do the USB idea, a great blend of Lego and electronics, but I could never destroy my Legos.
Just curious, when I build something of my own creation with my Legos (I rarely buy kits...i've been using the same bucket of Lego blocks since I was little) I find it hard to take it apart to build something new. I find this a big problem. I have several vehicles and such that I have built that are still sitting on shelves or in my Lego bucket because I just can't take them apart. Do you find this challenging as well?
See, I was one of 4 siblings, and I often found myself having to share the Legos with my brother, and if one of my projects had been built with a piece that he needed for a project during his "turn", I had to take my "gun" or "spaceship" or "race car" or whatever apart so he could have the part he needed. I guess you could say I was forced to adapt. So I did.
Thanks :)
Holy Moly! G codes in an Instructable!
What the hell is G21? Sorry, I've never had to use anything other than G20. (G21 commands metric, G20 english for you non CNC-types)
I was reading a book on fanuc macros and the safety line read G21 G40 G80 G90 and my head exploded (the author lives in India). Safety Gcodes all end in zeros in my world.
Actually, I'm the one that argues that if we did all of the machining in metric, we would be making our commands/corrections in finer detail. Falls on deaf ears, unfortunately.
Making Lego pieces out of exotic woods would be beautiful to see. I hope you do so.
Fin
But I agree with you, forking from an inch is rather big and bulky.
Wood is a nice I idea, lets see where the weekend lands me
Lego-Porn!
I have also considered using some Legos to do the USB idea, a great blend of Lego and electronics, but I could never destroy my Legos.
Just curious, when I build something of my own creation with my Legos (I rarely buy kits...i've been using the same bucket of Lego blocks since I was little) I find it hard to take it apart to build something new. I find this a big problem. I have several vehicles and such that I have built that are still sitting on shelves or in my Lego bucket because I just can't take them apart. Do you find this challenging as well?
body height: 3/8
stud spacing: 5/16 this is also the same as a 1x1 brick width
stud height: 1/16 (I measured slightly smaller than your 2.1 mm)
stud diameter: 3/16
Some other dimensions may be of interest:
stud middle distance from edge: 5/32
wall thickness: 1/16
rod diameter: 1/8
1x1 round plate small diameter: 1/4
this is also the diameter of all the round pieces that fit in the middle of a 2x2 plate.
Something one has to keep in mind is that the original poster is taking his own measurements, they may be slightly off the actual true specifications, which may very well be nice round numbers in metric system (which doesn't have to be the case, the metric system was created for ease of use, not for aesthetic reasons).
Also, I don't think this argument even matters...so what if the instructable is presented in metric or imperial. Just measure with the system you are most comfortable with. If you like nice, round numbers, use imperial, if you like to stay original, use metric. I hope this helps all of you come to some conclusion :)
I worked in a UK hardware store and although almost all items where metric the old guys would ask for 4" x 3/8" bolts come in and a drill bit to suit them and they where given 100 x 10mm metric equivalent. Builders would as for nails in pounds as the older builders they learned from would have used imperial.
All builders will use metric when building but the items are almost always refereed to as by there imperial equivalent. metric is easier to count in your head as base 10, most shop tills are base operated on metric as most money is metric, Imperial is hard to calculate when you are under pressure
Old guys and poetics is the true answer, example if said " that guy needs smacked with a 4 x 2" it rolls of the tongue easier than saying "that guy needs smacked with a 50 x 100" Timber sales was the place where people will often ask for 2.5 meters of 4 x 2 or 3 foot 6 of 40mm planed lathe it just gets rounded out to the nearest 6" or half 500mm
Weights and mass are easier worked out in grams, KG and Ltrs the conversions are a pain if you don't know the calculations, for most stuff a gallon is just 4.5ltrs and 1KG is 2.2 lbs, you start to know both values after a while.
Speed and distance are a great example of the poetics of metric v's Imperial. I clocked 49.5mph on my bike once running a large hill, when you say 79.6kmph it sounds exaggeratedly high, but 20 meters per second sounds slow, and 75 feet per second which sounds as terrifying as I was going down the hill. Also depends on the age of the person you are talking to.
Time just don't work in decimal, where as 24 can be divided by 1,2,3,4,6,8 and 12. and seems to work in fractions so time must be imperial then.
Generally its a good thing to be familiar and able to work with both, In most places people will use both and round up or down and use both measurements depending on how much tolerance they are working with.
However the author has measured them, this is a really nice project and the metal bricks look great.
For lego, just got lost in the wiki. Hmm Lego is old and patented by a Brit and used by the Danish Lego. So yes I believe now that perhaps it was designed imperical. But still that system makes no sense to me, Ill stick to my metrics
P.s. im not a seller or anything, just recommending them for Milling.
i looked through some scrap and found a few pcs. so i may try for a more complex lego seeing how adventurous i feel
keep up the good work.
Warren