Instructables
Picture of DIY Tough Bluetooth Boombox (Lasts 20hrs!)
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Get ready to build a tough & rugged boombox! "RaveBOX (v1.0)" can charge USB devices, play MP3s and tune to FM stations! It also comes with an IR remote offering better convenience. The boombox gives action sports and outdoor enthusiasts 18 hours of nonstop music. Whether you're at the beach, shooting rapids, or hiking outdoors, the boombox remains safe in its tough (Pelican-like) weatherproof shell.

How I Came Up With The Design:
It's been a while since I last posted my last boombox tutorial, it was pretty much a success but as we all know technology advances annually. RaveBOX is now as powerful as my old boombox but it's half the size of the old one.

I really had no design when I made this project, I had a "go with the flow" sort of vibe. One day I went to the mall to buy my usual supplies then suddenly I came across this generic Pelican-like case. They were selling it for like P480 ($9.60), I still had some speaker lying around, so I thought it would be cool to fit my four unused fullrange speakers + my 4" HiFi woofer. With no hesitation, I bought the awesome looking case. As I went back home, I started searching for parts in my inventory. I still had some amp chips lying around. I found two extra 2x3 Amp Modules (form dx.com) and my beloved Bluetooth Player Module (from dx.com).

All that's left is my battery, I wanted to make sure that my boombox would last a day of non-stop playback without charging, so I though of a solution! My robots are using LiPo batteries since they had a high "size to power" ratio, meaning they have a high mAh rating for their extremely compact size. Since the competition is still scheduled for December, I borrowed some of my LiPo batteries and decided to put them in my new speaker project.

Specs/ Features:
- 2.1 Channel Audio System (6W + 6W + 20W)
- USB Charging Capabilities (6600mAh)
- 18hrs Max Playback (LiPo Bat)
- Bluetooth 3.0 Audio Connection
- 3.5 Stereo Auxiliary Connection
- Equipped w/ FM Radio Tuner
- IR Remote Control

WARNING! You'll need some basic soldering skills, a little knowledge of electronics, and some patience to build this. Please don't blame me if you mess up the modules. SMD chips are very sensitive to over-voltage, handle them with extreme care! There's a lot to go wrong with this project. Good luck!

 
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ynze6 months ago

You put the charging unit directly to the lipo battery. So you can charge only 12V devices? What's the idea behind that? It would be cool to put a voltage regulator in between, so you can charge phones, psp's and mp3-players...

ASCAS (author)  ynze6 months ago

The charging plug is for the boombox's LiPo charger. If you look at the boombox very closely, the Bluetooth panel has a USB port. You can certainly charge any type of USB device (iPhones, PSPs, etc...).

tiagos ASCAS17 days ago

So for the pcb amplifier ?

tiagos14 days ago

HI !

Just on question why 2 HP per side ? what does it change if i only take 1 amp

where i put left n right Using this way only 2 HP

tiagos17 days ago

If my bigger speaker got 3" instead of 4" does it change many things in the pcb amplifier Thank you!

_ThaNerd_22 days ago

Where can I get the materials needed in order to make my own board?

1dlcz28 days ago

I noticed that when you installed the components for the mono amp you soldered it on the copper side, clearly you have no technical education, whatsoever. Who puts all of the components and solders it directly to the copper side of the board? ask any technically inclined person and they will tell you that it's wrong. As a general rule in electronics all of the components are ALWAYS on the top or blank side, that's why it is called the components side and whats ALWAYS under neath it is the copper side which is called the solder side. Please observe general safety rules in electronics and leave the technical stuff to the professionals or technically inclined. You do not know the hazards you are imposing.

Alternative #2 and #3 for the woofer is the same.
Also, most of the tweeters in the link are no longer in stock. Any alternatives?
Koung002 months ago

Will I be able to just use an actual Pelican case without any issues or just get a case as close as the one you used here? The link you have in this Instructable works, but I can't order from that site.

nneracher3 months ago

at step 7 what resistor you solder on the module, is in the first picture of step 7. thanks

ASCAS (author)  nneracher3 months ago

It's a 470uF capacitor for filtering the line. It's done to prevent the buzzing sound.

cool! are you from the philippines ?

ASCAS (author)  jay-vee hacker3 months ago

Yes! why?

phucyall6 months ago

Can you recommend a good alternative to the TDA2005 amplifier circuit you use that can be bought from DX or one of the other sources if I just want a pre-built one?

ASCAS (author)  phucyall6 months ago

This looks pleasing! It has a 2.1 channel setup. "Mini 2.1 High-Power Digital Amplifier"

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Just ordered one of these form DX. I will let you guys know how it works when I get it in the shop to test.

ASCAS (author)  John Culbertson5 months ago

Cool! Tell me if it's good, I'll buy one for myself too :D

Will do. Audio systems are new to me, so hopefully I will learn enough over the next few weeks to give a meaningful assessment. I have most of the build defined with the following hardware procured and in transit.

1. Surplus Geiger Counter Enclosure

2. The same Bluetooth module that you used

3. 2x Fountek FR58EX 2"

4. 1x Goldwood GW-204/8S 4"

ASCAS (author)  John Culbertson5 months ago

Whoa! I so envy your setup. Those Fountek fullrange speakers are so fancy. Plus, I've been planning to buy those Goldwood drivers for making speaker arrays/ towers.

______________________________

I'm super excited in seeing your write-up! BTW, Congratulation on the 123D :D

Congrats to you as well, and thanks for the great instructible.

Finally got the amp and the speakers, DX shipping is very slow. The 2 little Fountek's sound great on the L and R channels. I was able to induce some clipping in the Goldwood on the SW channel. I will toss it on the scope this weekend and get some more data.

Couple quick questions about the Mini 2.1 Amp... Did you use 3 wires for sound from the BT module? Did you do anything with the jumper that it ships with or just left it? Mine doesn't seem to work at all and I'm wondering if I'm missing something really simple or I just got a defective one.

I actually have not connected it to the bluetooth module yet. I just used a 3.5mm Male to male connector to interface it with my computer and it worked right off.

I did move the jumper around to see what would happen and in every position other than how it shipped the unit did not function.

You want the jumper (XX) in this position :

(POT) |XX-| |--|

I would recommend connecting it to an MP3 player or computer before connecting it to your BT module that way you can isolate the amp and diagnose it separately.

Also my quick review of the amp. I was very happy with the power I was getting on the L and R channels, but the SW (sub-woofer) channel was a little lacking for my taste. If you do still want use this amp for these type of projects I would recommend the speaker for the SW channel be very high sensitivity if you want to get decent base response.

OK, final summary of the DX 2.1 Amplifier:

The Left ans Right channels on par with my Dayton Audio DTA-1 15Watt amp:

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-A...

The Sub Woofer channel is horrible, it is no where near the 30 Watts claimed by DX. I Just connected my Dayton Audio DA25 25Watt plate amp to my little 4" Goldwood GW-204/8S driver and it is a night and day difference in output.

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SA25-Subwoofer-...

Summary: The base sucks, build or buy your own mono-channel amp for the sub.

What power supply were you using for this assessment?

I just figured out why that amp was not working. I was trying to run it off of a 11V battery pack and apparently that's not enough for it even though it's rated for 10-18V. Once I plugged it into 15V power supply it started working, but output for the sub is not working at all. Overall I'm disappointed with it. Would not recommend. I'm starting to look into setup similar to the original with separate mini amps for each channel. These mini amps can't handle 2.1 audio

jhead7 phucyall3 months ago

I had the same exact problem - I was trying to run mine off a 12V battery pack that appears to be outputting somewhere around 10V and the sound is terrible and can't even get louder than a whisper.

phucyall ASCAS6 months ago

That's awesome. It looks like that amplifier outputs 2x15W and 30W for the sub-woofer. It looks like it produces enough power to drive all 5 speakers (2 of the 3W speakers from one channel) and I won't need any of the PAM8403 amplifiers. Since this one takes 10-18V input I also won't need the 5V regulator. Am I correct in these assumptions? I am trying to sort out the parts list now.

tdizz0gg phucyall4 months ago

can you post the updates to the circuit

ASCAS (author)  phucyall5 months ago

Exactly! You are correct! I think that's the best substitute yet.

jhead7 phucyall5 months ago

I have the exact same question.

abdees3 months ago

Hi,

I have a question on your mono amo board. Where does the 100k pot goes?

I don't see it in your pictures?

ASCAS (author)  abdees3 months ago

I removed it, I don't need a volume control since the Bluetooth panel already has a digital one.

firdausharis4 months ago

can use microphone with this peoject?

ASCAS (author)  firdausharis4 months ago

Yes but you'll have to add a preamp circuit

can you show me the diagram of preamp circuit that can i include with this project

ASCAS (author)  firdausharis4 months ago

Here's a decent one.

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Imad14964 months ago

nice boombox man but I want to use the mini amp 2.1 from dx (2x15watt(tweeters) 1x30watt (sub), do you know how much hours a 6800mah li ion battery can play music on medium volume?

Awsomecp1734 months ago

What program did you use to make the circuit diagram?

ASCAS (author)  Awsomecp1734 months ago

Window's built-in "Paint"

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