Picture of DIY Tough Bluetooth Boombox (Lasts 20hrs!)

Get ready to build a tough & rugged boombox! "RaveBOX (v1.0)" can charge USB devices, play MP3s and tune to FM stations! It also comes with an IR remote offering better convenience. The boombox gives action sports and outdoor enthusiasts 18 hours of nonstop music. Whether you're at the beach, shooting rapids, or hiking outdoors, the boombox remains safe in its tough (Pelican-like) weatherproof shell.

How I Came Up With The Design:
It's been a while since I last posted my last boombox tutorial, it was pretty much a success but as we all know technology advances annually. RaveBOX is now as powerful as my old boombox but it's half the size of the old one.

I really had no design when I made this project, I had a "go with the flow" sort of vibe. One day I went to the mall to buy my usual supplies then suddenly I came across this generic Pelican-like case. They were selling it for like P480 ($9.60), I still had some speaker lying around, so I thought it would be cool to fit my four unused fullrange speakers + my 4" HiFi woofer. With no hesitation, I bought the awesome looking case. As I went back home, I started searching for parts in my inventory. I still had some amp chips lying around. I found two extra 2x3 Amp Modules (form and my beloved Bluetooth Player Module (from

All that's left is my battery, I wanted to make sure that my boombox would last a day of non-stop playback without charging, so I though of a solution! My robots are using LiPo batteries since they had a high "size to power" ratio, meaning they have a high mAh rating for their extremely compact size. Since the competition is still scheduled for December, I borrowed some of my LiPo batteries and decided to put them in my new speaker project.

Specs/ Features:
- 2.1 Channel Audio System (6W + 6W + 20W)
- USB Charging Capabilities (6600mAh)
- 18hrs Max Playback (LiPo Bat)
- Bluetooth 3.0 Audio Connection
- 3.5 Stereo Auxiliary Connection
- Equipped w/ FM Radio Tuner
- IR Remote Control

WARNING! You'll need some basic soldering skills, a little knowledge of electronics, and some patience to build this. Please don't blame me if you mess up the modules. SMD chips are very sensitive to over-voltage, handle them with extreme care! There's a lot to go wrong with this project. Good luck!

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ynze9 months ago

You put the charging unit directly to the lipo battery. So you can charge only 12V devices? What's the idea behind that? It would be cool to put a voltage regulator in between, so you can charge phones, psp's and mp3-players...

ASCAS (author)  ynze9 months ago

The charging plug is for the boombox's LiPo charger. If you look at the boombox very closely, the Bluetooth panel has a USB port. You can certainly charge any type of USB device (iPhones, PSPs, etc...).

tiagos ASCAS4 months ago

So for the pcb amplifier ?

Matt27113 days ago
What capacitor did you use on those PAM amps

Hello. Awesome setup! Do you have an update and precise parts list?? Much appreciated!


ASCAS (author)  george.winstong15 days ago

Thanks. I showed pretty much everything in Step#1. If you're looking for a different BT speaker project, I'm working on a 3D printed version. Probably I would be finished by the last week of December then publish the guide on January.

Yes I would be interested! However, for now I want to build something for someone for christmas. I'll try with what you have and then build another with your updated version. thanks!

Dries-H1 month ago

What's te use of using 4 tweeters?

khilla23921 month ago

How Much does it cost to make this and if possible could you make one for me in black? Also how good are the speakers?

khilla23921 month ago

How Much does it cost to make this and if possible could you make one for me in black? Also how good are the speakers?

broorb2 months ago


I tried making the TDA2005 mono amp, but I couldn't get it to work. I tried twice. I made sure that my PCB doesn't have any short. I followed all parts, except that I got the TDA2005R ( not TDA2005M ). I am not sure if this was the culprit. And man, did the IC heat up. I was using a 13v, 4A power supply.

Any help would be appreciated.


DangerousTim2 months ago


where do you get the 2.2 uf 25v capacitors?

also where do you get the 100 nf 25v capacitors?

how much did this project cost?

nneracher7 months ago

at step 7 what resistor you solder on the module, is in the first picture of step 7. thanks

ASCAS (author)  nneracher6 months ago

It's a 470uF capacitor for filtering the line. It's done to prevent the buzzing sound.

ghamit ASCAS3 months ago

470uF at what voltage?


tiagos4 months ago

HI !

Just on question why 2 HP per side ? what does it change if i only take 1 amp

where i put left n right Using this way only 2 HP

tiagos4 months ago

If my bigger speaker got 3" instead of 4" does it change many things in the pcb amplifier Thank you!

_ThaNerd_4 months ago

Where can I get the materials needed in order to make my own board?

1dlcz4 months ago

I noticed that when you installed the components for the mono amp you soldered it on the copper side, clearly you have no technical education, whatsoever. Who puts all of the components and solders it directly to the copper side of the board? ask any technically inclined person and they will tell you that it's wrong. As a general rule in electronics all of the components are ALWAYS on the top or blank side, that's why it is called the components side and whats ALWAYS under neath it is the copper side which is called the solder side. Please observe general safety rules in electronics and leave the technical stuff to the professionals or technically inclined. You do not know the hazards you are imposing.

Alternative #2 and #3 for the woofer is the same.
Also, most of the tweeters in the link are no longer in stock. Any alternatives?
Koung006 months ago

Will I be able to just use an actual Pelican case without any issues or just get a case as close as the one you used here? The link you have in this Instructable works, but I can't order from that site.

cool! are you from the philippines ?

ASCAS (author)  jay-vee hacker7 months ago

Yes! why?

phucyall9 months ago

Can you recommend a good alternative to the TDA2005 amplifier circuit you use that can be bought from DX or one of the other sources if I just want a pre-built one?

ASCAS (author)  phucyall9 months ago

This looks pleasing! It has a 2.1 channel setup. "Mini 2.1 High-Power Digital Amplifier"


Just ordered one of these form DX. I will let you guys know how it works when I get it in the shop to test.

ASCAS (author)  John Culbertson9 months ago

Cool! Tell me if it's good, I'll buy one for myself too :D

Will do. Audio systems are new to me, so hopefully I will learn enough over the next few weeks to give a meaningful assessment. I have most of the build defined with the following hardware procured and in transit.

1. Surplus Geiger Counter Enclosure

2. The same Bluetooth module that you used

3. 2x Fountek FR58EX 2"

4. 1x Goldwood GW-204/8S 4"

ASCAS (author)  John Culbertson9 months ago

Whoa! I so envy your setup. Those Fountek fullrange speakers are so fancy. Plus, I've been planning to buy those Goldwood drivers for making speaker arrays/ towers.


I'm super excited in seeing your write-up! BTW, Congratulation on the 123D :D

Congrats to you as well, and thanks for the great instructible.

Finally got the amp and the speakers, DX shipping is very slow. The 2 little Fountek's sound great on the L and R channels. I was able to induce some clipping in the Goldwood on the SW channel. I will toss it on the scope this weekend and get some more data.

Couple quick questions about the Mini 2.1 Amp... Did you use 3 wires for sound from the BT module? Did you do anything with the jumper that it ships with or just left it? Mine doesn't seem to work at all and I'm wondering if I'm missing something really simple or I just got a defective one.

I actually have not connected it to the bluetooth module yet. I just used a 3.5mm Male to male connector to interface it with my computer and it worked right off.

I did move the jumper around to see what would happen and in every position other than how it shipped the unit did not function.

You want the jumper (XX) in this position :

(POT) |XX-| |--|

I would recommend connecting it to an MP3 player or computer before connecting it to your BT module that way you can isolate the amp and diagnose it separately.

Also my quick review of the amp. I was very happy with the power I was getting on the L and R channels, but the SW (sub-woofer) channel was a little lacking for my taste. If you do still want use this amp for these type of projects I would recommend the speaker for the SW channel be very high sensitivity if you want to get decent base response.

OK, final summary of the DX 2.1 Amplifier:

The Left ans Right channels on par with my Dayton Audio DTA-1 15Watt amp:

The Sub Woofer channel is horrible, it is no where near the 30 Watts claimed by DX. I Just connected my Dayton Audio DA25 25Watt plate amp to my little 4" Goldwood GW-204/8S driver and it is a night and day difference in output.

Summary: The base sucks, build or buy your own mono-channel amp for the sub.

What power supply were you using for this assessment?

I just figured out why that amp was not working. I was trying to run it off of a 11V battery pack and apparently that's not enough for it even though it's rated for 10-18V. Once I plugged it into 15V power supply it started working, but output for the sub is not working at all. Overall I'm disappointed with it. Would not recommend. I'm starting to look into setup similar to the original with separate mini amps for each channel. These mini amps can't handle 2.1 audio

jhead7 phucyall7 months ago

I had the same exact problem - I was trying to run mine off a 12V battery pack that appears to be outputting somewhere around 10V and the sound is terrible and can't even get louder than a whisper.

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