diy heated clothing kit

I bought a carbon heating flex tape (www.carbonheater.us) and sewed it into an ordinary insulated fleece gloves.
For every glove I used 150 cm of carbon. It powered by 12 V. Current is about 1,5A for each one.

Step 1:

New glove (on the left) has 3 layers (on the right).
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<p>My husband is a paralyzed veteran and needs a heated vest as he is always cold due to his internal thermostat being messed up. The one we bought from Hemmlecher Schlemmer had three simple heating plates and he could barely feel a difference and the battery pack died quickly so we're returning it and looking at your method to make one. His wheelchair is powered by two normal car batteries and we were wondering if we could tap into that as changing or charging batteries all day would be timely and/or expensive. He is a true quadraplegic and wouldn't move from his chair. Thanks for any knowledge you can share! </p>
<p>Gail the amount of heat generated doesn't depend on carbon tape or wires like older heated vests. current times voltage equals watts (heat) regular wires (copper), micro wires (stainless steel) or carbon tape all produce the same amount of heat for a given voltage and current. The carbon tape would make a more even heat.</p><p>You could use the wheel chair batteries which would last a lot longer than what you tried. Since you're on instructables google around for &quot;diy motorcycle heated liner&quot; common commercial ones gerbings, warmnsafe, powerlet.</p><p>Note these are meant for 12volt vehicle power like the wheel chair but I don't know if your two batteries are wires in series for 24 volts or parallel for more amperage. You'd have to hook the vest or liner (heated sleeves) across one battery if they are in series. A pwm that could handle 24 volts would create a burn issue with a commercial vest when turned past 50%.</p><p>They commercial one listed have a pwm controller to adjust the temperature would he be able to turn a dial to regulate the heat?</p><p>In any event a liner should be fairly tight fitting and under any heavy clothing to transfer the heat to your body. The HS one sounds like it doesn't have a large enough battery to do the job. Typical with vest that use their own battery and don't use vehicle power.</p>
<p>Would I be able to use a USB charger pack, one for each glove. I don't need a lot of heat just enough to protect my wife's hands to prevent a Raynauds attack.</p>
<p>For ice diving +4C it's enough about 10 Watts per glove. That power you can get from one 18650 li-ion battery for 1 hour. I think your wife would like 1-2 Watts (depend on gloves thickness, air temperature and wind. So if your USB charger has one 18650 it will last up to 5 hours.</p>
<p>I am making them for the same reason would <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/390834749287?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AI" rel="nofollow">these </a>supply sufficient power?</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/390834749287?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&amp;ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT</p>
<p>It's depend on power / temperature you would like to get.</p><p>That powerbank provides 1 Amper maximum at 5 Volt (the real will be less).</p><p>This table shows current / temprature / length relationship. The same current give the same temperature. Length changes depend on voltage.</p><p><a href="http://www.carbonheater.us/images/Current-Length-Temperature.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://www.carbonheater.us/images/Current-Length-T...</a></p><p>If you would like to get about 30C you need current about 0,5A</p><p>At 5V you need about 50 cm of 15 mm carbon to get this temperature.</p><p>So it will work in some cases.</p>
Would it be better to control the output with a rheostat, or a pwm? It looks like the power supply simply controls voltage. Thanks!
<p>That power supply is just for test. For practice I use a pwm RF dimmer:</p><p>http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-heated-belt/step10/RF-remote-dimmer/</p>
Perfect. Thank you. One more question. I see the connection on the palm side of the glove. Did you wrap around the fingers to the back side and make your other connection, or how was that done?
<p>This way.</p>
<p>There's a promotion on <a href="http://www.carbonheater.us" rel="nofollow"> www.carbonheater.us</a></p><p>Make an instruction with the carbon tape on <a href="http://www.instructables.com" rel="nofollow"> www.instructables.com</a></p><p>and get 10 meters of carbon for free!</p>
<p>Did you attach the wires from the latch switch to the the battery pack. How did you complete the circuit if the wiring that's near the palm to the switch and the battery pack. If you use a flat battery pack (small and square) how do u attach the wiring to it?</p>
<p>I use gloves in very cold weather, so I use a very high heating power (more than 10 watts on each glove). So I use an external power supply, 12 volt battery (18650 3x2) located on my belt. The wires from the battery goes through the sleeves. At the end of each wire mounted connector. Each glove has a connector also.</p><p>Wearing gloves, insert the plugs. On each glove has a power button. Press the button to turn on the heating. For me, it is very convenient.<br></p><p>Of course you can locate the battery on each glove, but then the time and power will be less.</p>
<p>If you were to make a carbon heater and place it inside about an inch wide metal cylinder and about 4 feet long what do you think the best way to go about it is? I want it to be battery powered, waterproof and the batteries to last about 10 hours.</p>
<p>First of all it is recommended to decide what power will be your heater. Then choose a battery that will give such power. <br>For example, you want to make a 20 watt heater. If you need it to work one hour It is needed a battery of 20 a / h, If you need it to work 10 hours, then you need more batteries so their total capacity was 200 a / h (20 x 10 = 200). <br>So, how much power do you need?</p>
Well I would need it to last about 10 hours because of the way I am using it.
<p>What are you powering these gloves with? By the looks of it, it is with the laptop charger you used in previous projects. I want to try and power it another way so that I can make the gloves actually portable. Any ideas? It would be hard to use batteries to get the necessary current. Unless I want to be pulling a car battery around like a ball and chain ha ha. </p>
<p>Wires from gloves go through the sleeves and connected to a 12 volt battery on the belt. (18650 2 x 3).</p><p><br>Now I would recommend using one flat battery 3.7 volts for each glove. Put on each glove not one long piece of carbon tape, but a few short pieces. Connect all the pieces in parallel. Contacts on the tape to make with a silver conductive glue.</p>
<p>For a given electrical input, is the temperature of the carbon tape based on the total number of square cm? Or the shape? For instance; picture a &quot;U&quot;. The uprights are 15mm x 1m. The bottom is 40mm x 1 m. Put a current across the top. Would the entire thing be the same temperature? Or would the fat bottom be different from the skinny uprights?</p>
<p>For a given electrical input, temperature depends on the passing current. Current depends on the tape resistance. The resistance depends on the width and length of the tape. Correct to speak not about the total number of square cm, but running meters for given width. As the width different so the resistance and the temperature different too.</p>
<p>Excellent! Thanks.</p>
please please could you explain more elaborately about step 3 - what wire do you use to make the electrical connection and what diameter is it, can i buy this wire easily and also please could you show any pictures of this wire as im a bit confused as to how you stitched all that copper wire into the tape from what looks like a regular stranded piece of copper wire - so im real confused as to how youve stitched this into the tape ! <br> <br>Will be ready to buy some of this awesome tape from you too, thanks also for your instructables, not many people make the effort to make good instructions lol ! <br> <br>
At first I must tell you about carbon fiber tape. <br>It's conductive as a copper, aluminum or any metal wire. But every metal will oxidized on surface and oxides aren't conductive. Carbon fiber can oxidized too, but carbon dioxid is a gas so the surface is always clear and can be connected in any place easily. To make a good connection it's enough to put together two pieces of carbon or carbon with a metal wire. No need to squeeze them very strong it's enough to put together. So we can place a wire on the tape and fix it somehow. The best way for me just sew them together with a sewing machine, just like two pieces of fabric. <br> <br>We can use any wire we have. For clothing is recomended an ultra flexible wire (multi - stranded) cause they are wearproof. The diameter depend on the current. <br>We can found the correct in AWG table (here for example: http://www.ken-gilbert.com/techstuff/AWG_WIRE_TABLE.html). <br>The power consumption and amperage depend on you only. Here some examples below: <br> <br>1 foot - 24,86W (12V); 31,5W (13,5) <br>2 ft - 12,4W (12V); 15,7W (13,5V) <br>3 ft &mdash; 8,3W (12V); 10,5 (13,5V) <br>4 ft &mdash; 6,2W (12V); 7,8 (13,5V) <br> <br>If connect 1ft x 2 in parallel it will be 24,8W +24,8W = 49,6W (12V); 31,5W+31,5W=63W (13,5V) <br>If connect 1ft x 3 in parallel it will be 24,8W x3 = 74,4W (12V); 31,5W x3=94,5W (13,5V) <br> <br>2ft x 3 in parallel it will be 12,4W x3 = 37,2W (12V); 15,7W x3=47,1W (13,5V) <br>2ft x 4 in parallel it will be 12,4W x4 = 49,6W (12V); 15,7W x4=62,8W (13,5V) <br>2ft x 5 in parallel it will be 12,4W x5 = 62W (12V); 15,7W x5=78,5W (13,5V) <br>2ft x 6 in parallel it will be 12,4W x6 = 74,4W (12V); 15,7W x6=94,2W (13,5V) <br> <br>3ft x 5 in parallel it will be 8,3W x5 = 41,5W (12V); 10,5W x5=52,5W (13,5V) <br>3ft x 6 in parallel it will be 8,3W x6 = 49,8W (12V); 10,5W x6=63W (13,5V) <br>3ft x 7 in parallel it will be 8,3W x7 = 58,1W (12V); 10,5W x7=73,5W (13,5V) <br>3ft x 8 in parallel it will be 8,3W x8 = 66,4W (12V); 10,5W x8=84W (13,5V) <br> <br>4ft x 7 in parallel it will be 6,2W x7 = 43,4W (12V); 7,8W x7=54,6W (13,5V) <br>4ft x 8 in parallel it will be 6,2W x8 = 49,6W (12V); 7,8W x8=62,4W (13,5V) <br>4ft x 9 in parallel it will be 6,2W x9 = 55,8W (12V); 7,8W x9=70,2W (13,5V) <br>4ft x 10 in parallel it will be 6,2W x10 = 62W (12V); 7,8W x10=78W (13,5V) <br>4ft x 11 in parallel it will be 6,2W x11= 68,2W (12V); 7,8W x11=85,8W (13,5V) <br>4ft x 12 in parallel it will be 6,2W x12 = 74,4W (12V); 7,8W x12=93,6W (13,5V) <br> <br>At 12V (metric) <br>0,25meter - 30W <br>0,5meter - 15W <br>1meter - 7,5W <br>2m - 3,75W <br>3m - 2,5W <br>4m - 1,8W <br>5m - 1,5W <br>6m - 1,25W <br> <br>If connect 0,25m x 2 in parallel it will be 30W +30W = 60W <br>If connect 0,5m x 2 in parallel it will be 15W +15W = 30W <br>If connect 0,5m x 3 in parallel it will be 15W +15W +15W =45W <br>If connect 1m x 2 in parallel 7,5W +7,5W = 15W
With dry gloves it will.
I like this. Any plans to make it weather resistant?

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