Picture of DIY carbon tape heated gloves
diy heated clothing kit

I bought a carbon heating flex tape ( and sewed it into an ordinary insulated fleece gloves.
For every glove I used 150 cm of carbon. It powered by 12 V. Current is about 1,5A for each one.
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Step 1:

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New glove (on the left) has 3 layers (on the right).

Step 2:

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Tape sewed by hands on the inner side of glove . Connected in parallel 2 x 75 cm.
Because of tape is thin and very soft I placed it directly to fingertips side.

Step 3:

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You can sew wire to carbon tape to make a good and flexible connection.  The contact place shouldn't be hotter then the tape itself. If not you must increase the contact area.

Step 4:

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Now carbon tape placed between two gloves.

Step 5:

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Step 6:

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Ready to use. Very comfortable with my heated vest and insoles.
locozap25 days ago
Would it be better to control the output with a rheostat, or a pwm? It looks like the power supply simply controls voltage. Thanks!
Shenzhen (author)  locozap24 days ago

That power supply is just for test. For practice I use a pwm RF dimmer:

Perfect. Thank you. One more question. I see the connection on the palm side of the glove. Did you wrap around the fingers to the back side and make your other connection, or how was that done?
Shenzhen (author)  locozap24 days ago

This way.

Shenzhen (author) 2 months ago

There's a promotion on

Make an instruction with the carbon tape on

and get 10 meters of carbon for free!

deedeeg5 months ago

Did you attach the wires from the latch switch to the the battery pack. How did you complete the circuit if the wiring that's near the palm to the switch and the battery pack. If you use a flat battery pack (small and square) how do u attach the wiring to it?

Shenzhen (author)  deedeeg5 months ago

I use gloves in very cold weather, so I use a very high heating power (more than 10 watts on each glove). So I use an external power supply, 12 volt battery (18650 3x2) located on my belt. The wires from the battery goes through the sleeves. At the end of each wire mounted connector. Each glove has a connector also.

Wearing gloves, insert the plugs. On each glove has a power button. Press the button to turn on the heating. For me, it is very convenient.

Of course you can locate the battery on each glove, but then the time and power will be less.

jenndouglas9 months ago

If you were to make a carbon heater and place it inside about an inch wide metal cylinder and about 4 feet long what do you think the best way to go about it is? I want it to be battery powered, waterproof and the batteries to last about 10 hours.

Shenzhen (author)  jenndouglas9 months ago

First of all it is recommended to decide what power will be your heater. Then choose a battery that will give such power.
For example, you want to make a 20 watt heater. If you need it to work one hour It is needed a battery of 20 a / h, If you need it to work 10 hours, then you need more batteries so their total capacity was 200 a / h (20 x 10 = 200).
So, how much power do you need?

Well I would need it to last about 10 hours because of the way I am using it.
bgoodrichf9 months ago

What are you powering these gloves with? By the looks of it, it is with the laptop charger you used in previous projects. I want to try and power it another way so that I can make the gloves actually portable. Any ideas? It would be hard to use batteries to get the necessary current. Unless I want to be pulling a car battery around like a ball and chain ha ha.

Shenzhen (author)  bgoodrichf9 months ago

Wires from gloves go through the sleeves and connected to a 12 volt battery on the belt. (18650 2 x 3).

Now I would recommend using one flat battery 3.7 volts for each glove. Put on each glove not one long piece of carbon tape, but a few short pieces. Connect all the pieces in parallel. Contacts on the tape to make with a silver conductive glue.

bbannon10 months ago

For a given electrical input, is the temperature of the carbon tape based on the total number of square cm? Or the shape? For instance; picture a "U". The uprights are 15mm x 1m. The bottom is 40mm x 1 m. Put a current across the top. Would the entire thing be the same temperature? Or would the fat bottom be different from the skinny uprights?

Shenzhen (author)  bbannon10 months ago

For a given electrical input, temperature depends on the passing current. Current depends on the tape resistance. The resistance depends on the width and length of the tape. Correct to speak not about the total number of square cm, but running meters for given width. As the width different so the resistance and the temperature different too.

bbannon Shenzhen10 months ago

Excellent! Thanks.

please please could you explain more elaborately about step 3 - what wire do you use to make the electrical connection and what diameter is it, can i buy this wire easily and also please could you show any pictures of this wire as im a bit confused as to how you stitched all that copper wire into the tape from what looks like a regular stranded piece of copper wire - so im real confused as to how youve stitched this into the tape !

Will be ready to buy some of this awesome tape from you too, thanks also for your instructables, not many people make the effort to make good instructions lol !

Shenzhen (author)  offtherails20101 year ago
At first I must tell you about carbon fiber tape.
It's conductive as a copper, aluminum or any metal wire. But every metal will oxidized on surface and oxides aren't conductive. Carbon fiber can oxidized too, but carbon dioxid is a gas so the surface is always clear and can be connected in any place easily. To make a good connection it's enough to put together two pieces of carbon or carbon with a metal wire. No need to squeeze them very strong it's enough to put together. So we can place a wire on the tape and fix it somehow. The best way for me just sew them together with a sewing machine, just like two pieces of fabric.

We can use any wire we have. For clothing is recomended an ultra flexible wire (multi - stranded) cause they are wearproof. The diameter depend on the current.
We can found the correct in AWG table (here for example:
The power consumption and amperage depend on you only. Here some examples below:

1 foot - 24,86W (12V); 31,5W (13,5)
2 ft - 12,4W (12V); 15,7W (13,5V)
3 ft — 8,3W (12V); 10,5 (13,5V)
4 ft — 6,2W (12V); 7,8 (13,5V)

If connect 1ft x 2 in parallel it will be 24,8W +24,8W = 49,6W (12V); 31,5W+31,5W=63W (13,5V)
If connect 1ft x 3 in parallel it will be 24,8W x3 = 74,4W (12V); 31,5W x3=94,5W (13,5V)

2ft x 3 in parallel it will be 12,4W x3 = 37,2W (12V); 15,7W x3=47,1W (13,5V)
2ft x 4 in parallel it will be 12,4W x4 = 49,6W (12V); 15,7W x4=62,8W (13,5V)
2ft x 5 in parallel it will be 12,4W x5 = 62W (12V); 15,7W x5=78,5W (13,5V)
2ft x 6 in parallel it will be 12,4W x6 = 74,4W (12V); 15,7W x6=94,2W (13,5V)

3ft x 5 in parallel it will be 8,3W x5 = 41,5W (12V); 10,5W x5=52,5W (13,5V)
3ft x 6 in parallel it will be 8,3W x6 = 49,8W (12V); 10,5W x6=63W (13,5V)
3ft x 7 in parallel it will be 8,3W x7 = 58,1W (12V); 10,5W x7=73,5W (13,5V)
3ft x 8 in parallel it will be 8,3W x8 = 66,4W (12V); 10,5W x8=84W (13,5V)

4ft x 7 in parallel it will be 6,2W x7 = 43,4W (12V); 7,8W x7=54,6W (13,5V)
4ft x 8 in parallel it will be 6,2W x8 = 49,6W (12V); 7,8W x8=62,4W (13,5V)
4ft x 9 in parallel it will be 6,2W x9 = 55,8W (12V); 7,8W x9=70,2W (13,5V)
4ft x 10 in parallel it will be 6,2W x10 = 62W (12V); 7,8W x10=78W (13,5V)
4ft x 11 in parallel it will be 6,2W x11= 68,2W (12V); 7,8W x11=85,8W (13,5V)
4ft x 12 in parallel it will be 6,2W x12 = 74,4W (12V); 7,8W x12=93,6W (13,5V)

At 12V (metric)
0,25meter - 30W
0,5meter - 15W
1meter - 7,5W
2m - 3,75W
3m - 2,5W
4m - 1,8W
5m - 1,5W
6m - 1,25W

If connect 0,25m x 2 in parallel it will be 30W +30W = 60W
If connect 0,5m x 2 in parallel it will be 15W +15W = 30W
If connect 0,5m x 3 in parallel it will be 15W +15W +15W =45W
If connect 1m x 2 in parallel 7,5W +7,5W = 15W
Shenzhen (author) 1 year ago
With dry gloves it will.
I like this. Any plans to make it weather resistant?