Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine

does the far end of the threaded rod (left, on picture) just hang/sit/rub on the steel pipe? Should/can you support it somehow?

Just let it hang.
If you don't it will want to move the table or whatever is riding on the nut all over.

If you support it you'll need bearings on each end.

I found it easier to just take a few minutes and grind a section out of the pipe that way the coupling nut could travel past the piping for an extensive use of the X axis.  I also welded a sleeve into the slot where I extraced material on the piping, and not necessarily for structural reasons, but for a nicer look(sucks to be OCD). 

What kind of rubber hose did you use?

I'm still searching for it.

Advance Auto has it for about $1.29 per foot...... and if you're looking into Lowes or Home Depot, it will be a clear line instead of black.  I found that the auto stores have a thicker wall thickness on their lines, and the Hardware stores have a smaller wall thickness(if you are wanting to use the smallest available parts)

I put up a parts page for some of the basic stuff you can't just go buy, but makes building these a lot easier & makes for a more stable build.
V block sliders for the rails, NEMA 17 motor mounts and 5/16-18 anti-backlash nuts.
http://bluumaxcnc.homestead.com/Parts_Store.html

Hi  Tom  I'm Karim of Egypt on this last effort and mental characteristics and I have decided to use this circuit in the work is my graduation project, but a problem

I use the Proteus in the design of a pcb , but when I transfer circuit file to (dxf ) and open the program the machine kcam unloaded path Copper I hope you to let me know the program that you use in the design of printed circuit, which you empty copper around the track and you very much

And to excuse twice in the use of English language

Use EAGLE for layout http://www.cadsoft.de/
and PCB G Code http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pcb-gcode/
with the optimizer, you will find it in the files I think.

A small board I made as a demonstration for the mini-mills I sell.
http://bluumaxcnc.homestead.com/BluumaxCNC.html

Awesome,
did you ever lock the Z-axis support with a bolt or something to keep it from going out alignment, or did you just tighten it as shown in the movie? 

Hi Tom:
This is my first posting and I know you have recieved many questions, sometimes repeatedly. I could use a helping hand from you or anyone who has built this PCB. I have attached an image of the PCB which I have populated with the components and pin out information. There are two items I'm not 100% positive of and they are shown in the box fields outside of the PCB. Please take a moment and check my thinking I really would appreciate it.

Hi Tom:
Thank you for helping me out. I've corrected the image as I left out the 1N4004 Diodes (I was in a hurry to post my message) I have now also shown orintation of the IC's. You have sparked my building bug with this little gem.
Best to you

A quick Question. I'm connecting the pins to the parallel port and I have been using your drawing (its very helpful, thank you for posting it) you say that pin 16 and 17 go to "m code" what is that? Also pins 11-13 go to "home switch" is that a sensor? or what? Thanks a lot, Jason

My ball bearings rusted!! Is there something I should be putting on the metal parts to keep them from rusting? And/or to keep them moving smoothly?

THANKS!

use stainless, grease them good, get sealed type 608-2RS Sealed
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/608ZZ10

What kind of grease should I use, and where do I buy it from?

Thanks!

I would just use bearing grease from an auto parts store. It's cheap & should work fine.

I found a yahoo group that features this easy mill build. It's http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobby_CNC/

They also talk about mods for it and the 608zz skate bearings and where to buy them dirt cheap. Hope this helps all of you folks.

i'm wondering, how does it make PCB from scratch?.. how do u remove the conductive parts while leaving only small conductive traits(circuit) on the board?

all i can see is the machine doing it the other way around....

HI, no all it does is makes holes in the PCB board (i Think) PCbs are usually made with a photo etch method google it to find out more

It's easier to route the traces with a mill than to dink around with etch.
http://bluumaxcnc.homestead.com/Demo-PCB.html

PCB g code is easy & works with EAGLE. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pcb-gcode/
or
http://www.pcbgcode.org

This is a demo board I cut on a machine like this one, but modified.
http://www.bluumax.com/Demo.html

Lots of design programs have an output option that will create an outline of what you have drawn/designed. In Diptrace you can select an "Edge" output which creates a G-code file and saves it as a .dxf. Then you import the .dxf into your machine controller program (Mach, Cambam, K-Cam...etc) and use a "V" shaped engraving tool to mill the circuit trace outlines.

If you are making a double-sided board, you have to set it to "mirror" the bottom set of traces and use a couple of reference points to exactly align the board when you flip it over to mill the back side.

I dont know if this has already been answered, but would i be able to cut out a shape, lets say a star from a sheet of acrylic?

What is the length of x, y and z axis pipes?

The length's are not critical. They will; however, affect the amount of working space you have. I guessed and bought 1" ID pipe, the two legs (y) are 10", the parts that join the Z-"T" (x) are 8" and 3" and the Z pipe is 10".

I guessed wrong about the 1" ID because the thing turned out bigger than Tom's but I'm happy. It is Sturdy!

Better sturdy than weak. What cutting area do you have?
I'm thinking of scaling this up a bit to get a 12"x12"x3"ish cutting area.

My work area is X-12", Y-8" and Z-5"

wow thats pretty good. The Y in this design is kinda limited by how far out from its support you mount the z module, but I'm aiming for you area or a bit bigger.

Yes, you are quite correct. If you try to extend the Y out too far, when the stage traverses very far from the X rails, it will tend to tip. I overcame that problem by pouring a 6 pound lead counterwieght that rides on the X stage. I was worried that the lead weight would make it hard for the rails to slide but since I used channel steel riding on steel conduit for rails, the additional friction was minimal.

The easier approach, of course, would be to use longer black pipe "legs" to make the X stage wider, but I was past that point by then and just made the counterweight instead.

Thanks for the heads up, I think I'll go with some 18" legs. When you say you used 10" pipe for the Z, do you mean that you put the z module 10" above the rest of the frame or do you mean you extended it out 10" over everything else?
If not, how high up did you put it and how far out? Thanks!

Upon re-reading I realized that my response missed the gist of your comment... I answered about extending the Y axis, but you commented about the placement of the Z axis upright.
Here's how I built mine. But if I were to use a little longer extension than the 3" nipple. I'd get more useable workspace. I might do that. With this size pipe, it might even be a good idea to point the "T" towards the rear and put a pipe and elbow so that the Z upright is further away. I constantly have to be on guard against my Y stage colliding with the upright.
In the picture you can see the counterweight. The rubber bands keep it from walking around due to vibration. I used rigid 1/2" copper rails for the Y stage because I ran out of steel conduit. It works well too. What looks like blown fuses are actually ballast lamps. Looks like I may be running them a bit hot.

Thanks for the help man!
I have my frame set up, and now I need to build the platforms. It looks like plexiglass will be too bendy for my size machine, what did you use? I need to find something relatively cheap and strong that will do the trick and not sag under its weight for its size.

I have been looking at making this thing for some time but due to the fact that it cant use USB and I dont feel like going out to buy a new computer just for a Parellel port i searched around the internet and found this http://www.cncdudez.co.uk/ they have a free DIY project to create a USB-Parallel Interface with firmware and software to run the cnc machine on USB so now anyone without a parellel port can use this.

Also found this one now http://rc.cis.si/projects/cnc_motion/ not sure wich one is the better choice but there might be other usb software programs just havent found them yet or you might be able to program the yourself.

Absolutely genius!!! What do you use for software to make the drawings and to "translate" them to the motor controllers?? I am currently in the middle of my build and any help would be greatly appreciated.

I intended to make my own controller board but it was too complicated to draw by hand. I tried the toner transfer method with little success. I finally gave up and bought a new, already assembled Univelope driver board off eBay for about what it would have cost me in parts. It works very well. Several people on our forum use the "Hobby CNC" board kit and say it works great too.
But to answer your question, now that I have a mill I use the trial versions of Diptrace and K-Cam (I'm poor, donations appreciated ;)

Any body else have their ball bearings rust on them?

I have built a mill based on Tom's design and video. I was a total noob when I started and now I have a working mill.

I have documented the building/learning process I went through day-to-day as I went through it for any other noobs who might want to try this. Some of my ideas worked and some didn't work.

I called it: "Building Tom's Easy Mill" on this forum: http://cerebralmeltdown.com/forum/index.php?topic=19.0

Hope it helps someone.

Here's a picture of the mill I built based on Tom's video.

Notice I did the rails a bit differently. It uses motors rated at 1 amp, has a Univelope driver board, and that's a RotoZip rebel mounted on the Z-stage.

I'm still a noob, but I'm a noob having fun.

Great project, but still no real complete list for parts, and size of various components. Except for what has been written and in your video, everything else is guess work. I assume you might not be aware that us newbies who are really interested, are left in the dark.
Please post a list , or atleast tell me how much money you might want to charge for such a list.

I agree ruawake newbies aren't always taken into account but the project is brilliant and who's to blame? i'm sure with a bit of guess work we'll be fine

can you give a few more details on the four posts, and the bracket that holds the nut that the threaded rod goes through?

Tom, instead of mounting the entire dremel can i mount one of those flexibles cables that attach to the dremel and put that into your system instead? i have numerous flexible cables around the shop and they would be lighter and less bulky.