For a quick, fun and very easy garden project, grab a bag of concrete, your imagination, and follow me!

Concrete planters and garden ornamentation are a wonderful addition to the outdoor setting around one's home. Often, such decor comes with a high price, enormous size and incredible weight which is not easily transported. The solution? Make your own.

While you would likely not fare well to dive right into large scale concrete landscaping, you can dabble a bit in a smaller project to begin with. Then, when you find how addicting this craft is, take it easy on me for suggesting it. So let's get started.

Curious about the intro bowl? See step five for details.
Curious about the frog? He is a real. Hyla versicolor have the ability to change colors.

Found a typo? Please, by all means, let me know. :-) I appreciate it!

Is your reply positive and constructive? I'd love to hear it.
Please refrain from being nasty or negative. That is not the purpose of this site.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials...

What you will need:

CONCRETE - http://www.quikrete.com/index.asp

QUIKRETE® Concrete Mix (No. 1101) is the original 4000 psi average compressive strength blend of Portland cement, sand, and gravel or stone. Just add water. Use for any general concrete work. (Verbatim as posted on the Quikrete site) Resist the urge to use heavy duty concrete, as it is very chunky. For those familiar with mixing their own concrete instead of using a mix, by all means do so. We use Quikrete because it is available in our area and has proven to be of quality for the items I've made.

Though many home improvement stores carry ready-to-mix concrete in 80 pound bags, it is also available in other sizes, depending on your preference as well as ability to lug it around. Be sure to allow store employees to help load the larger bags into your car. There are many types of ready-to-mix available, choose accordingly. I prefer Quikrete (mainly because it is readily available in our area) and Quikrete Vinyl Concrete Patcher, but these products are mere suggestions. Nothing is cast in stone. Yet.

COLORING - Not a necessary item at all, though coloring concrete is quite fun, and easy! Check out liquid cement colors near the concrete section of your local hardware store. A 10 oz. bottle will color quite a bit of concrete. If you want to maintain color consistency in your projects, consider making up large bottles of colored water for your project, and be sure to keep a lid on the container of mixed water. Shake well before using. Don't get carried away by dumping in more colorant than recommended, or your concrete will not set properly.

MOLDS - An endless supply of molds, containers and other ideas are available everywhere. Scour yard sales, thrift stores and other thrifty places for interesting shapes and sizes. Don't stick to bowls, use your imagination. You could even make your own. Try not to choose anything with great detail, as you may be disappointed. For finer detail, use Vinyl Patch mix, which has far less bumps and bits of rock, or use a good cement and sand recipe.

Just about any container can be utilized as a mold for concrete, provided you are able to get the finished product out of it. Bowls, cups, milk cartons, jugs, the ideas are bountiful. At present, I've found much delight in selecting unique glass containers from second hand stores and yard sales. If the finished item cannot be dropped or dumped out of the mold, after the concrete has fully set up, simply (and gently) tap the glass to crack or break it from your concrete creation, then rinse off the glass and be sure to take it to the recycling center.

Plastic, stainless steel and other materials release from the cured concrete easily when non-stick spray is applied to the mold prior to adding concrete.

NON-STICK COOKING SPRAY - Yes, release agents are sold specifically for the purpose of mold release when using concrete, but quite frankly, a cheap can of non-stick cooking spray works just fine. Use it generously to ensure your project will slide out of the mold. I've used both generic and Pam brand cooking sprays with success. Thanks to the many wonderful Instructable folks who have also suggested using other agents such as WD40 and perhaps even motor oil.

WATER - Necessary to mix with the concrete. Not too hot, not too cold, not too much, not too little. Perhaps my 'luck' has been the love of making mud pies as a child. Think Goldilocks, and mix well.

RUBBER GLOVES - Nothing fancy needed, but you should wear them. Be safe, not sorry. Concrete poisoning is no fun, and it's not pretty. I know this from personal experience.

EMERGENCY MOLDS - So you've mixed a pristine batch of concrete, you've sprayed the mold and you're in the process of filling it. Whoops, not enough concrete! Quick, dump it out and reach for another mold. Keep one close by for this very reason, and don't forget to spray it first. It is better to make a bit more than to end up a bit short.

A POKER - You'll need something about the circumference of a pencil to poke out air bubbles.

A LARGE SPOON - Or any similar item to mix the concrete. My favorite? A skinny garden trowel. Keep your eyes off items in the utensil drawer of the kitchen unless you no longer wish to use it on food.

BUCKETS, MEASURING CUPS, MISCELLANEOUS 'TOOLS OF THE TRADE' - Obtain inexpensive tools and reserve them for concrete projects alone, as they will become tarnished with concrete. Don't be wasteful. Clean and re-use your tools.

Step 2: Mix Concrete, Fill Your Mold...

Spray your mold with cooking oil and set aside. Mix the concrete so it is about the consistency of peanut butter, not a slushee. It should hold a bit of form when shaped into a ball, but not so wet that it slumps, and not so dry that you can't make a ball without a great deal of effort. Not too wet, not too dry.

Pack the mold, tapping and poking the concrete down into any crevices in the mold. Once filled, level off the top with something flat like a ruler. If you can, carefully bounce the project on a firm surface that is covered with something cushy. You don't want to break the mold, especially if you've chosen a glass mold.

Set on a level surface out of direct sun. Wait twenty four hours before you even think of touching it.

Step 3: Allow Proper Concrete Curing Time...

Concrete creation is generally not advised in high temperatures. Work in the shade if you simply cannot resist a Summer project.

CONSIDER A WATER BATH - Concrete is not as easy as mixing, setting and forgetting. It requires a period of time to harden, or 'cure'. Unfortunately, concrete is notorious for setting before the ingredients have had a chance to bond as securely as they could have. The result of a rushed concrete job is cracking, weakened durability and a crumbled project. I allow my projects to remain in the mold for a minimum of 24 hours, longer for thicker items, then carefully set the item into a deep bath of water for a minimum of one week. Okay, fine, I admit it, I stuff them into unoccupied pond plant containers and sometimes in with the Koi (not advised for everyone, though our tanks are HUGE). Often I submerge the entire project to avoid any damage. DON'T rush it, don't be impatient. The reward to patience is well worth it. A week. I mean it!

Many people also merely cover their projects with wet burlap (thanks, Cyoung13) or plastic wrap and such. Unfortunately I've never used such methods, so I cannot speak for them, but they are equally wonderful methods of preventing your project from drying out too quickly.

For those who simply haven't the time or the means to ensure your project stays moist, you might consider an acrylic concrete cure & seal, available in most home improvement centers in liquid form. Brush, roll or spray this formula onto freshly set (not freshly poured) concrete. Look for the deep yellow jug with green and black labeling in the concrete section. This product can be used on recent projects, or even existing concrete.


Step 4: Sanding and Sealing Your Ware...

Now that your project is finished, you love it, you sit back and adore it, you cock your head sideways and wonder what to do next.

It's beautiful, but have you considered making it even more so? Grab a sanding block, your project and let's head outdoors!

On a breezy day, set your project up outdoors in an area where you will get a good dose of air. You don't want to inhale any kind of dust, you know. With a sanding block, rub your project vigorously in a small area. Now feel the other side. What a difference! Go ahead, sand
the entire thing. After it is completely sanded, rinse it off, dust it off, whatever ensures you have removed any residual dust.

Head to your local home improvement store for a jug of this, or a similar item, depending on what your store carries:


Using an appropriately sized brush, roller, or sprayer, apply concrete cure and seal, allow to dry, and enjoy even more!

Step 5: Use Your Imagination...BUBBLE BOWLS!

You are not limited by much when choosing molds for your concrete garden treasure. The bowl in the intro was created using what is typically known as a Bubble or Cell bowl. As it is difficult to explain, pictures have been provided. One of the pictures features a copyright message. Not to worry, it is mine. Love you, Dave's Garden!

The glass bowl in the first image is shown upside down. Typically, it is filled with artificial flowers, then turned upside down to allow the bowl to be used, while still being able to see the flowers inside the glass bubble. Look closely and you will see the indented bubble in the middle. The only opening to this 'bubble' is the one you see at the top. This bubble can be filled. I hope I've made sense.

* Updated to include additional images. So many of you did not understand what a Bubble Bowl was, and I understand. It is hard to imagine without a picture. :-)

When filled with concrete, allowed to dry, then flipped upside down, the glass is carefully broken from the concrete, leaving a heavy and very durable bowl. Don't forget to recycle the broken glass.

I hope you have enjoyed this Instructable as much as I have enjoyed making it.

Step 6: Additional Idea #1...

I'll post just a few samples to provide a starting point for your creativity.

*Also see step 9*

Fill a bowl (plastic is reusable) half or three quarters full of concrete.
Spray a bowling ball with cooking oil, hold it by the holes and insert into the bowl of concrete.
Push hard, twisting the ball as you press down, but don't let the concrete overflow
the bowl. Allow to sit for a day or so, then twist the ball out of the bowl. The harder
you push, the deeper your bowl will be. Neat! Don't forget to cure it properly.

Step 7: Additional Idea #2...

Fill your choice of container with concrete, squish a glass votive holder into the concrete.
Allow the glass to remain in the concrete even when it dries. Try not to be too sloppy, and
you won't have to clean up the glass afterward. Let it cure, add a candle, and enjoy. You
can remove the original container or allow it to simply be a heavy item with concrete intact.

In this example, a flower-shaped votive holder was pressed into a bowl, then later broken out,
leaving a nice shape with a well for a votive candle.

As this bowl has only today come out of a curing water bath, I will allow it to dry, then grind
down the rough edges.

Step 8: Additional Idea #3...

This bowl is made using the same type of glass bubble bowl as in the introduction
of this Instructable, but it is much more shallow and of larger circumference. It is heavy, which
makes for an excellent pet food or water bowl after it has been properly sealed...don't want Fido
to become sick from anything harmful that may leak from the concrete. Thanks for the reminder,

No tipping! Best source for these bubble bowls -
yard sales and second hand stores.

Step 9: Additional Idea #4...

Special thanks to Design Sponge and Design Gal for the idea of using a glass fixture. My wheels began to turn!


A very large glass lighting globe was using to make this 30+ pound concrete sphere.
Please note, the glass was removed entirely, I just wanted to share a photo showing both
the concrete and the glass, which if you look carefully, you can see it is thinner glass in
some areas of the globe. A fun project I enjoyed doing.

I simply filled a large glass globe with concrete, left it alone for a week, then submerged
it in water for another week. Wearing safety glasses, the lighting globe was then removed
by gently smacking it with a hammer. What am I going to do with it? I haven't yet though that
far, but for now, it simply remains in our garden walkway for amusement. It isn't likely someone
will run off with it very far. :-)

Step 10: More on the Bowling Ball Bowl From Step 5...and a Link to a Great Instructable!

Several of you expressed interest in the bowling ball bowl. Say that three times fast!

In a nutshell, you simply choose a bowl that is larger in circumference than your bowling ball.
Fill the bowl half to three quarters full of concrete, submerge the ball in and give it a squish.
Allow it to dry.

Remove the ball, remove the bowl and there you have it. :-)

Want more? You should definitely check out Creativeman's Bowling Ball project!


Great job, Creativeman!

Step 11: Libbie Wanted in on the Action...

Libbie decided she should keep an eye on the concrete ball as it cured.
Just in case something went awry, you know.
<p>good idea and also simple instructions .</p><p>Can I give you a better way to get rid of air in the concrete though?,try using an old vibrator from your wife or girlfriend or just buy one. using vibration is the method that industry use to get rid of air in concrete . I`m not going any further on the vibration side as I`ll probably get some stick to mention it here :&gt;</p>
<p>LOL, great idea. I believe a back massager would do the trick? What do y'all think? Does it have to go into the concrete or does it go on the side of the bowl?</p>
A palm sander works, as does a washing machine on the spin cycle (top loading). I've cast stepping stones, placed them on a raised piece of plywood &amp; used both to &quot;jiggle&quot; the air bubbles to the surface.
<p>This may be a good solution! I've got some plants that need to go outside but the wind here gets crazy. A normal planter just won't be heavy enough to stay standing.</p>
<p>Hi. I've been trying to find out how to make that bowl for a while. Thank you so much for sharing! Wonderful, thoughtfully worded instructions. I plan to try it this summer!</p>
<p>Hi, I've bought some latex moulds and need to cast them and then make fibreglass jackets. The problem is when I cast them they stretch and go out of shape. I've tried putting them in sand to secure them but this hasn't worked. How can I get a cast made without them stretching? Any advice would muchly be appreciated. Thank you. </p>
I'm looking for a lion mold. All I can find are small ones. Would love to find a larger one. Ideas?
<p>How do I add drainage holes for plants?</p>
Hi I've just got some fibreglass molds and I'm wondering what to use to get the concrete out once set and do you submerge the whole thing or just concrete once out of mild. Thanks lee
<p>I love the smooth sides of these bowls. I am having a really hard time finding bubble or cell bowls like the ones you have shown here. Do you have particular source that you use?</p>
Hello Karen (nice name, by the way, LOL) I just found a few bubble bowls online for you, LOL. These should get you started, and give you an idea of the titles to keep an eye on.<br> <br> <br> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Festiva-Small-Clear-Glass-Bowl-For-Floating-Candle-With-Silver-Star-Garland-Box-/261782420934?hash=item3cf372bdc6:g:y7oAAOSwBahU48Ea" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Festiva-Small-Clear-Glass-Bowl-For-Floating-Candle-With-Silver-Star-Garland-Box-/261782420934?hash=item3cf372bdc6:g:y7oAAOSwBahU48Ea</a><br> <br> <br> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Floating-Candle-Bowl-Rolled-Edge-For-Decorative-Display-with-SET-20-Candles-NEW-/191938352512?hash=item2cb06ad580:g:-m8AAOSwimdXo46u" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Floating-Candle-Bowl-Rolled-Edge-For-Decorative-Display-with-SET-20-Candles-NEW-/191938352512?hash=item2cb06ad580:g:-m8AAOSwimdXo46u</a><br> <br> <br> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Floating-Candle-Bowl-Art-Glass-Clear-Rolled-Edge-Hand-Blown-in-Poland-Has-Label-/371557061333?hash=item568286d2d5:g:~EsAAOSwL7VWnoze" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Floating-Candle-Bowl-Art-Glass-Clear-Rolled-Edge-Hand-Blown-in-Poland-Has-Label-/371557061333?hash=item568286d2d5:g:~EsAAOSwL7VWnoze</a><br> <br> <br> <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-CS-4082-Large-floating-candle-bowl-for-added-DAZZLE-insert-the-gold-garland-/122067866977?hash=item1c6bcfd561:g:cPYAAOSwX~dWtW5F" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-CS-4082-Large-floating-candle-bowl-for-added-DAZZLE-insert-the-gold-garland-/122067866977?hash=item1c6bcfd561:g:cPYAAOSwX~dWtW5F</a>
<p>Is there any kind of glue that could be used to add mosaic glass pieces or pebbles to the rim? I've used Weldbond, but some of the pieces came off...</p>
<p>Spelling is excellent and what a super little frog!:)</p>
<p>LOL. Thank you, Carol. I try to pay attention to my writing, but there are times my fingers go a little too fast, and I don't notice the typos. Incorrect spelling is typically a peeve of mine. :-) </p>
Everybody spells something wrong but it does niggle me if in a newspaper or book!<br><br>Not familiar with peeve in that context, can be peeved over here, I love the regional variations!<br><br>Tree hugging, it has been known! I think it's meant to earth out negative energy or summat. Certainly nice to study them with wonderment..I saw what thought was indian bean tree earlier, then realised it was the lovely pink magnolia, the houses there are over a century old and I wonder about the tree now, fantastic shape. Tree bark on a plane always reminds me of a map or summat.
This is awesome! Would be perfect for a succulent planter. How big are the concrete bags for one planter? Thanks.
Hello, Scott,<br><br>It would really depend on the size of the container you were going to use as a mold. If ever I am in doubt, I mix plenty, but then I have several smaller containers around, just in case. Better to have too much than not enough. :-)
Thank you! It wouldnt hurt to make a bunch at once so theyre setting together.
<p>Thanks for the tips ... love your work.</p><p>I've made a few concrete bowls using the same technique, however the problem I have is the salt release from the concrete once it's dry.</p><p>Have you had this problem? If so, is there a solution, eg. do I need to seal it?</p>
Thank you so much, Gena, :-)<br><br>Hmm. I'm not sure what salt release is, do you mean the pitting, or that the bowls release some kind of ashy substance? Many of my bowls have not been sealed, but they are out in the elements, perhaps mine are just rained on frequently, and I don't notice the salt release. <br><br>I just looked up the description of 'salt release', and found the following page, which might be of some assistance: <br><br>http://www.concretenetwork.com/doug_bannister/efflorescence.htm<br><br>
<p>I like your idea but didn't find your photos (except for the bubble bowl) to be very instructional. A picture of a clock to show waiting for concrete to cure? How about some pictures of actually pouring the concrete into the mold and removing it from the mold and sanding and sealing? It would have made the Instructable much more effective for me. Thanks for posting.</p>
<p>Terry, </p><p>I'm sorry you didn't like the Instructable. Perhaps you could submit one of your own.</p>
<p>Thank you so much for your instructable. I've wanted these balls for ages but thought I had to order them. Silly me. I've looked all over for these bubble bowls and nada. Do you know of a place I can order one? Thanks again for your great ideas.</p>
Hello Linda,<br><br>Thank you so much for your message. :-) <br><br>Oddly, I must live in a part of the country with a bounty of these bowls, as they always seem to show up in yard sales and thrift stores. I think they were all the rage years ago, and older women are just clinging to them. LOL. <br><br>I do see them on Ebay quite often, but the price plus shipping is outrageous. They sometimes show up in Walmart around the holidays, too. I wish I knew a place where you could just order them. <br><br>Karen
<p>Wuvie, thank you so much for your reply. I've been looking exclusively for &quot;bubble bowls&quot;. Under that name all I get is bowls, from urns to tulip styles. I didn't know they are also called floating candle holders. Geesh. How large is your frog's personal pond? I'd love to set one or more out in my garden for birds, etc. Thanks again.</p>
<p>Great post, how I like it when instructor's choose to add details to their posts. Just some tips for working with concrete. Adding some PVA glue to the mix will give the concrete extra strength and minimise cracks while curing, it is also good as a sealer and a bonding agent. 4 parts water/1 part PVA (4:1) ratio for admix and 10:1 as a sealer and for bonding apply a generous coat of PVA to the surface. By applying a sealer coat before painting and then a few coats after will reduce pealing. Allow the sealer to dry before painting; or painting while the sealer is still tacky will give a cracking/crazing effect. Use an orbital sander as a vibrator to eliminate bubbles and for curing cover the mold with a plastic sheet and then apply steam under the sheet, make sure the condensation from the steam doesn't drip on the mold. </p>
Any tips on how to make square tapered planters?
<p>When it comes to cleaning. What do you recommend when cleaning tools and such, if you have a procedure of cleaning up and how you go about it. Thanks</p>
<p>I've owned a concrete crafts biz. Concrete (especially vinyl and quik-setting) hardens quickly on your tools, the only way to remove those chunks is hammer and chisel. My solution: The first step I do is ALWAYS get a gallon bucket of water handy(like a kid's play bucket). Fill it up so a tool's handles will be immersed. As you need to switch tools, immediately drop the cement-covered tool in the bucket. No need to dry a tool before using it again. </p><p>If you're spending hours on projects or it's a hot day, concrete will dry inside the mixing container, stop playing in the mud to scrape it off with a (very stiff) wire paint scraper brush and wash with H2O as you scrape. Does not require gloves. </p><p>Remember concrete sticks hard as a rock to metal, but since I use garden trowel, huge mixing spoons, and a small spade, all for strength, the water bucket is just SO much EZ'er than the chisel. You can also use the garden hose, Scotch-brite pad or the coarsest wire Brillo pads. No soap. Have fun!!</p><p>If you wash tools in the kitchen sink as I do, please do not rinse off concrete in the 'garbo' side and let cold water run for a minute or so to make sure all the grit is washed through the pipes.</p><p>(Pic of a local archery store owner with the custom planter I made.)</p>
<p>Had some extra quickset leftover from setting down some Ditra (great product for tiling btw). Covered the outside of a pyrex bowl with several layers of plastic wrap. Spread the quickset more-or-less evenly around the bowl. Wrapped the quickset perimeter diameter in plastic wrap to allow the bowl to hold it's shape.</p><p>Now it is set, the plastic wrap came off the outside, and the bowl is feeling pretty glued-in-place, inside the concrete bowl. It's usable to hold water without sealing, because it has a glass bowl in it. But I'd be more interested to remove the bowl. Have you had any success with glass mould removal, without shattering the glass? Any tips?</p>
<p>Okay then here's my deal. About3 years ago me and the husband made 6 birdbaths. as far as we got---Would like to embellish with marbles, colored bits of glass just like the good ole days. Do uou have a process for adding slurry to the outsides in order to smush the items into and then what to seal it all with?</p>
<p>Try latex tile mastic or thinset mortar (not as sticky as the latex). Concrete will not stick to concrete. Or my sister and I have used heavy duty glues to attach our mosaics. Grout the mosaic, then, if desired, seal with a silicone grout sealer. </p>
<p>Concrete WILL stick to concrete, as long as it has a rough surface to bond to. And thinset/mortar is nothing but specialized concrete. If you want to add embellishments to a smooth-surfaced concrete birdbath using any kind of concrete or mortar, use a wire brush to rough up the surface or you can use special drill bits to drill some holes to give the concrete something to get a hold of.</p>
<p>is it possible to use the ordinary glass cereal bowls? i cant find these in my country.</p>
<p>Hello, oh, yes, you can actually get very creative by combining bowls, too. You might even visit a second-hand store, and play with various bowls, putting them inside one another, etc. <br><br>You might even consider using an adhesive to connect them so they form an inner bowl, then after they are dry, you could add concrete and proceed. You might still have to break the glass, depending on the shape of the glass. </p><p>I'm so sorry it took so long to respond, I've been rather inattentive of my messages lately. </p><p>Many thanks!</p><p>Karen </p>
<p>Instead of breaking glass, why not make the bowl part of the concrete, just encase the bowl in concrete ?</p>
<p>I say experiment! I have used packing peanuts and shredded paper. Papercrete is a well known building material in sustainability circles.</p>
<p>Okay...with your instructions, maybe I won't fail again. I tried to make a bird bath with my husband. What a disaster. I do believe the cement was mixed wrong. I'm disabled and really need his help but when I said it needed more water....he didn't agree. It came to pieces the next day. Never tried again. That was last summer. I'm stronger this summer than I was last....so I'm hoping I can wing it and possibly succeed. If so, bird baths aren't all I want to do. Thanks for your help. I'll let you know if I succeed. </p>
<p>Just my $.02 I have tried many different concrete projects some successful and some fall apart. Based on that, more water is usually NOT what is needed but more mixing. If you are adding rocks to the recipe try soaking them in water first so water is within the mix. Then don't touch it for 24 hours. Also, any time you do something write down exactly what you did- remember, this is chemistry. If it's good you want to recreate it. I also tried a birdbath in the shape of a leaf/ It really doesn't require all that sand just something so cast on that will give it the form you want.</p>
<p>Glad you had Libby there to keep an eye (or two) on these projects. Such a great supervisor, it's no wonder these look so interesting.</p>
<p>Hello, I'm sorry, your message is blank. </p>
<p>Thanks for this information. These would go good with polished concrete floors. </p><p><a href="https://u1364481.ct.sendgrid.net/wf/click?upn=p5Kc4AiJooc2IeuO6fRte-2F-2BuQWDT638OgayaYmubW0-2Fb-2BWR-2BgFuv50SsdvKbuK9yNz8YAHLrml-2BqMPMVTXuBCIQe3Xx2Xm7iSChr2-2FdqC92VIQ6DiZkPVxL1tEYC3Ft6iaL7ECsI1Xhg2aHDINAO9jST3bsJ9W9I89Vmehwm6xE-3D_uoQOw53Jnd2odJf4vBwXdXNQagijUt-2BMTyutQ-2Fnb5YThwRhu6R9nO7Dw5GCIDCXWhACB3An1zwl-2BbGr4NfVtJl-2Bkra4c7GUeEF04fF2dTmFb7qAJX0O6lrpO5KV-2BdAvDDb6k6K7iVsq7VmgYrPRnS0BdC0Wq5GDJCDbTq6izmG4rtLSx-2FG9zePp-2FYPpuV97hEEWjO-2FUGMMWxkYso7DGxrg-3D-3D" rel="nofollow">http://www.myfloor.net.au/services/concrete-polishing</a>/</p>
Just a thought with the 30# oncrete sphere...could paint with glw in the dark paint for outdoor luminaries. ?
<p>GID paint will make the painted item show up at night, but won't really illuminate anything else. So if you wanted to mark where a pathway is, it will do that, but it won't actually show your footing. Those pictures claiming to be GID painted planters casting bright light are lying; the planters are actually translucent and have electric lights inside of them.</p>
<p>Just wanted to clarify, in case other readers are confused. Carin's comment about the &quot;glow-in-the-dark planters casting bright lights lying&quot;, she is not referring to my Instructable, but rather another project using thin light covers with electric lights. :-)</p>
<p>Right, sorry for any confusion, Wuvie. I was referring to a picture that keeps popping up in Pinterest, not this great tutorial. :)</p>
<p>Okay, love this site and the ideas. Thanks for the wonderfully clear instructions!</p>
<p>Well written, folksy Instructable. It motivates me to get out the cement. But I'm commenting about Libby--beautiful cat and, obviously, typically needs to be part of the action.. Thanks for including this pic!</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Let's skip the pretentious titles. At present, I am a paper pusher for a manufacturing plant. In the remainder of my life, I am ... More »
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