When we sold our home in Wisconsin and moved to California we had to leave behind the vanity I had built for my wife in the master bath. The vanity was table-height so she could sit down and use it as a dressing table/make-up table etc. The house we moved to has a very large master bath but no sit-down vanity and almost no space to put one. The only possibly was a small corner, 25" wide and 14" deep, but it would need a custom made vanity top to fit within such a confined area.
Intrigued by the idea of concrete counter tops, I borrowed from a number of techniques found on the web to come up with this vanity which would technically be called a concrete overly. The vanity also served as the testing grounds for a much larger project I will be doing next spring, a 3 foot by 13 foot concrete outdoor kitchen counter. So even though the time, effort and money needed to fabricate this rather tiny counter top may seem out of the proportion to the final product, it was a great learning experience and the techniques might be useful to others who want to scale them up to a larger size project.
Materials you will need include:
* Enough 3/4" Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) for the counter top and edges
* Enough fortified (with polymers) VersaBond thin set for your project
I used less than 1/8th of a 50 lb. bag for this 2 sq. ft. project
* Enough non-sanded tile grout for your project.
I used less than 1/8 of a 10 lb box for this project
* One sheet of metal stucco lath (this project used about 1/5 of a sheet)
* Small amounts of latex and acrylic paint if you want marble or granite effects
* Envirotex Lite epoxy “bar coat”. (4 oz covers 1 square foot so you can purchase a “kit”
Appropriately sized to your project)
* Screws, staples, nails, carpenters glue
* Rubber “Bondo spreaders” and steel drywall knife/joint knife
* Sandpaper (50 to 400 grit)
Step 1: Constructing the wood core.
The wood core of the counter top is made using 3/4" Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF). Cut the top to the shape and size you need and then cut strips of MDF 1 ½” wide to go around the perimeter edge of the top. This will make the finished top look like it is 1 ½" thick. Apply a good grade of carpenters wood glue, such as Titebond II, to the edge pieces. Position the edge pieces and nail or screw them in place.
If you have exposed corners on your counter top, cut them at a 45 degree angle. Then sand the corner into a smooth curve. It will speed the sanding if you use some sort of electric or air sander such as the orbital air sander used for this project. But it can be done by hand if necessary.
The top edge of the counter can remain square or you can give it a gentle curve using sand paper or a router as shown in the photo. When completed, your wood core should look something like the final photo.