Flux Capacitor - Back To The Future

Since the release of the film back in the 80s I have been obsessed by the film Back To The Future watching the trilogy repeatedly. I watched it at the cinema over and over, I was very lucky that my great uncle was a projectionist so I could just sit in show after show.

So about 10 years back I decided I wanted to build a flux capacitor, but I got stuck back then because I didn't have the correct skills at that time and I was making a mess of it, so I shelved the project.

I decided to come back to it with my now improved skills and technology, and this time I have something awesome!!

The idea was to create a flux capacitor that was as close to the film as I could get, and at some point I want to put it in a Delorean.

Check out the video of it in action

I will be making other Back To The Future props including the Time Circuits so make sure you subscribe to me to get updates by clicking "follow" in the top right of the window.

WARNING: this instructable includes flashing lights and strobe effects especially on the videos.

Step 1: Parts and Tools

some of the parts are very hard to get hold of such as the Torr Vacuum relays (TRV-1 high voltage relay) if you can find them they sell for serious money, often sold by Back To The Future prop geeks for ridiculous prices. In this instance its best to replicate the relay as best as possible.

near enough everything I got on ebay, I love ebay.

Parts

Stahlin J1210HPL enclosure - the one on the film has a window but Stahlin have not made one with a window for years so you have to buy the one without the window and put your own window in.

Clear Acrylic sheet, 250mm x 200mm x 3mm - this is for the window.

3mm thick plastic sheet, grey for the back board.

1 meter of rubber window gasket - I used one with 3mm gap, 5mm gap A and B and 5mm web (see picture)

1 x can of Battleship Grey Spray Paint

1 x can of grey primer

1 x can of lacquer

1 x can of Plasi-kote brass

1 x can of Plasti-kote silver

car body filler

Accel 3009 yellow spark plug leads with orange ends, they have to be the 3009 to have the bend in them.

20mm clear Acrylic balls, I had a hard time finding these you can get them here

http://www.hindleys.com/index.php/materials/plasti...

12mm acrylic tube with 3mm wall

6mm acrylic tube, 1mm wall

6mm acrylic rod, solid

4mm copper tube

3mm copper tube internal Diameter 2mm

2mm thick stainless steel wire, I used a coat hanger, you could use music wire.

12mm thick, clear acrylic block

vero stripboard, prototyping PCB

20cm Jumper Wires, female both ends and some male both ends

1 x Arduino Uno

1 x SD Module

1 x SD card, or a micro SD with adapter

1 x LM386 Audio Amplifier Module

1 x 5w speaker, no thicker than 30 - 35mm so it will fit under the back board.

12 x Warm white LEDs, 5mm, 4.5v

7 x Bright White LEDs, 5mm, 4.5v

68 Ohm resistors

a simple on off switch

9V battery connector

Infra red reciever

Basic universal IR remote control

4 x 3/16 UNF machine screws

a medium project box, no thicker than 30mm

wire red and black.

Tools

A dremmel

Hacksaw

mitre box

screw drivers

soldering iron

solder

large cardboard box or spray booth.

masking tape

3D printer, not really required but it was easier for me to use this, you could make the bases out of clay or something then cast them in resin

Dymo label maker with red tape, 9mm wide.

side cutters

pencil

sharpie marker.

jigsaw

pair of compasses.

ruler.

USB Cable

screw drivers

sd card reader, I picked one up in a pound shop that works well.

various grades of sand paper

T-cut paint restorer.

Software

Google sketch up

Arduino sketch program

Adobe Illustrator (for researching the sizes of things from screen grabs of the film)

Audacity - free sound editing software

Wav sample converter - free wav file converter