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I was frustrated with the price of electric burnout kilns for ceramics, metal annealing, glass enameling, and melting precious metals etc,. so I decided to build my own. Most kilns that run at these temperatures cost between $600 and $1200. With a little help from a guy at a ceramics store, I built one for about $120 (not including the power controller and pyrometer). This little electric kiln can get up to 2000 degrees F and is easy to make without any special tools besides a handheld router. I also wanted one that I could take apart and replace the element, since these are inexpensive.

Materials:
1. 8 x 10" bolts with nuts- 1/4" diameter
2. 7 x soft fire bricks (4 1/2" x 9"- make sure they are soft)
3. About 7 feet of angle iron from Home Depot (this is the frame) (4 x 14" legs/corners, 2 x 9" floor supports)
4. One sheet of thin aluminum (for the door). At least a 9" by 9" square
5. One 1/4 inch x 24" coiled heating element (stretched to 29 1/2") out of 16 gauge Kanthal wire. I had this wound for me at the local ceramics store. Joppaglass.com also is good source.
6. One small hinge with screws
7. Fire proof pins (should come with element)
8. Short outdoor extension cord rated to at least 10 amps (cut down to 3 feet)
9. Variable controller-I've seen them on ebay for $20 rated at 15 amps. Try ebay or Harbour Freight Tools. I already had one with no markings from an old kiln.
10. 1" thick Kaowool- about 1 foot square

Tools:
1. Hand held router with 1/4 inch bit
2. Wrench
3. Needlenose pliers
4. Hacksaw
5. Wire cutters/stripper
6. Drill
7. Tin snips

Step 1: Cutting the channels

1. Pencil the channels in as a u-shape 1/4 inch wide. I left about an inch, to an inch and a half from the edge and the top of the "U" so the elements are not too close to the opening of the kiln.
2. Route out the channels with your router using a 1/4 inch bit.
3. You will need to cut one of your fire bricks down to a square 4 1/2" by 4 1/2" for the back and route out two straight channels. This will be the back wall.
<p>Thank you for this Instructable - it was one of the key documentations I needed for making my own so that I could make my fiance's engagement ring (http://www.instructables.com/id/Casting-Rings-From-Startup-to-Finish/).</p>
<p>that is awesome! You are the first to post one! Do you have an instructable for your ring? That is a cool setting- did you make it out of Pmc clay?</p>
<p>Yes, I detailed the ring making, kiln build, vacuum chamber construction, and the necessary step-by-step guide to all (see the link above). I actually ended up 3D printing the initial ring using a polyjet printer available at school and then converting it into wax using a rubber mold (the 3D printed parts didn't burn-out the best) before casting.</p><p>I would have had a much harder time with everything without your instructable!</p>
<p>sorry, I didn't see the link:) - I love the PID controller! That is a nice upgrade-I'll have to add one to mine. I make jewelry also but I'm old school. I want to learn the lost wax casting so I'll be visiting your instructable often in the future. Congrats on your engagement!</p>
This is a great idea; but you have to do your sums, I was looking for a place to cast some gold, on a one off basis. Couldn't find anywhere so next choice was looking for second hand equipment with the idea that I could sell it on afterwards but there is very little available in the UK. So next idea was ok I'll make my own, what do I need, a kiln that will let me both burnout wax and melt gold. Perfect your kiln will do both. But if im not using a centrifugal casting system then I need a vacuum table for both the investment and pouring the metal that's ok I can build both.<br><br>Then I discovered casting houses! Yes their gold price is higher than Cookson or Rio grande but the overall extra cost is a fraction of the cost of building your kiln let alone the vacuum table! <br><br>So as much as I would like to cast the two items ill get a much better quality job done for less money with a casting house. <br><br>Dan<br>
<p>We're on Hackaday!</p><p>http://hackaday.com/2014/12/10/casting-engagement-rings-or-other-small-metal-parts/</p>
<p>That is amazing. I used this kiln to make my fiance's engagement ring too but I didn't document it like you did. I will definitely be using your walk-through to improve my process for when I start making the wedding bands! Thanks!</p>
This is great!! Simple and functional. And very well explained, I have no doubt I can make this with your instructions. Thank you so much, I would never be able to afford one otherwise.
awesome. i want to make so I can blow glass. wondering how I could do it and bam -your instructable. thanks.
Terrific!!. I have been trying to find an inexpensive kiln for copper enameling for years. Never could afford a store-bought one. Thanks. This appears to be fairly easy to build. <br> <br>Robert Larkins
An excellent project and so simple! <br>I'll be assembling one of these soon for smelting Tin (Sn) ore.
Thanks!
Thanks! I have been wanting to make -- not a high temp kiln, but a low temp oven for polymer clays, and this instructible gave me insight on how to construct it.
Thank you so much for showing how to make a kiln! I have been wanting one forever but where I live they usually run $1500 and up -- way out of my budget. Now I will be able to build my own at a much more affordable price. Thanks!
You are more than welcome. I was in the same boat! Necessity is the mother of invention.
Awesome Ible!!! <br> <br>Expensive store bought kilns have the same problem with the elements popping out - they heat up, expand, and voila, out they pop! (so don't take it personally!) <br>My paragon kilns have metal staples that hold the elements into the channels - they often come loose and need to be pushed back in, I believe they're just steel - would that work? <br> <br>Also, for around your door - perhaps a woodstove gasket would work? I've used it instead of foil as a gasket, works great, cheap as hell. <br> <br>Either way, nice job. Looks a helluva lot nicer than my waffle iron kiln! <br>
Thanks- your waffle iron kiln is a great idea and one of the first ones I looked at before building this. I almost built your waffle iron kiln but for some of my projects I was afraid it might be too small. Thanks for some of my original inspiration!
<p>Hi </p><p>I am in the process of building this type of kiln. I am only stuck at the wiring. I have a Ta4 RNR nor SSR. Would this even matter??!?!?! </p><p>here is the exact one i have: <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-Control-RNR-1-Alarm-Relay-Output-TC-RTD-/110851344776" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-PID-Temperatu...</a></p><p>Im trying to figure out how to hook up the heat element.</p><p>Currently I have the power cord hooked to the PID terminals 1 and 2 </p><p>The TC is hooked to PID terminals 7 and 8 and i have the SSR hooked to PID terminals 3 and 4. </p><p>The SSR i have is the SSR-25AA:</p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Contoller-Terminals-Solid-SSR-25/dp/B00FZU6BC6" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Contoller-Termin...</a></p><p>Hopeufully you still check this please help!!</p>
Hello, did you ever figure out the wiring im about to buy the same parts &quot;Ta4 RNR nor SSR.<br><br>here is the exact one i have: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Digital-PID-Temperatu...<br><br>Im trying to figure out how to hook up the heat element.<br><br>Currently I have the power cord hooked to the PID terminals 1 and 2<br><br>The TC is hooked to PID terminals 7 and 8 and i have the SSR hooked to PID terminals 3 and 4.&quot;<br><br>
no i didn't unfortunately. i actually temp stopped this project but when i start back i was going to just buy the ssr
<p>i am afraid I won't be much help on a PID controller since I have never rigged one up on my kiln. Above in the comments, Sure Hacksalot built his kiln with one. You may have to contact him and see what he says. </p>
<p>Hey </p><p>Thank you for your reply! i am talking with him now. Hopefully I can get his up and running without blowing up the house! lol </p>
I'm curious about your router. Where did you get it?
<p>What is the name of the source of electricity</p>
Thank you very much for inspiring me to build this! it cost me about $150 and that was mostly Electronics and the fire brick. the controller is one of the cheap my PIN controllers from China / Amazon. a lot of people use those who support is widely found online. thanks again!
<p>I wonder if I could use the components from a heating gun (element + circuit board), remove the thermal fuse, and plug it directly to a wall outlet? The element is 1500W.</p>
<p>you could try. Your coil won't be very long though so it may take a long time to heat up.</p>
<p>Hello sir, I was wondering how much watts this furnace uses.</p><p>I am making a furnace myself and I can only use 1500-2000 watts due to my outlets having a max of 16A AND the group being connected to the living room and fridge.</p><p>So there are little amps left for me.</p><p>My furnace (Foundry) is 0.15 cubic feet, do you think this is enough to heat it up to Alluminium melting temperatures?</p>
<p>this furnace itself is overkill for an aluminium furnace. Honestly you could make one out of a steel bucket hair dryer plaster of Paris and sand and melt aluminium with charcoal or modify it to use propane. Trust me, that kind of furnace could melt steel if the coals are hot enough</p>
<p>yeah, well, tell me how well you can use metal clay, or glass enameling with that design and get back to me. This kiln has multiple applications besides melting aluminum.</p>
<p>The thing is, I need it to be electric!</p>
<p>I am in the same situation with my electric. You could make the coil shorter ( like 16 inches and stretched to about 29) and that way it won't draw more power. Keep in mind it will heat up faster. This was made to run on 110V. Just make sure you use a variable control and then you can control the amount current coming through and also the temperature.</p>
<p>for the thing where your elements keep popping out, I've seen another build where they cut the channels with a slope so they're wider on the inside than on the surface. that way, as the coils expand from the heat, they lock against the narrower opening rather than coming loose.</p>
<p>I've started doing that and it does help but doesn't totally solve the problem.</p>
<p>can i build it bigger? or would that affect its use?</p>
<p>I am no expert, and have not designed a bigger one. Big ones though, have longer coils, draw more power and usually require greater electrical specifications. That's why this one is small and will run on any outlet in a house.</p>
<p>Hey, Awesome design! I had a few questions about it though as I'm about to possibly build one myself for the purpose of flameworking (glassblowing). Any idea How well this will work for annealing glass? (how accurate temperatures are etc.) and If I make the dimensions fairly larger how will it effect the design and temperature as a whole. Thanks- Timmy. </p>
<p>Hi Timmy- my experience is that the temps are very accurate. It helps to have some kind of variable controller and a pyrometer so you can regulate the heat. I do this manually, but some people on here have added a PID controller that you can program. Glass annealing shouldn't be a problem.</p>
<p>hi </p><p>thamks for your instructions they are good</p><p>but please can tell me more about the electric connection of it from A to Z i dont know much about electric but am building a furnace for plastic melting that will have like 400dgr C THANKSS HOPE TO HERE FROM YOU</p><p>please if any one can help me write me thanks</p>
<p>Jopglass has posted a comment..</p><p>http://joppaglass.com/small_el_kiln_proj/Instruct_kiln_proj.html</p>
<p>Very awesome guy great job</p>
Where did you get the heating element.
<p>i had it made for me at a ceramics store. Joppaglass makes them for a reasonable price. I have started making my own. It's not that hard. I just bought some kanthal wire and made a coil. I'll probably make a new instruct able on how to do it.</p>
<p>How are people terminating the Kanthal wire? I am not seeing ceramic terminators that isolate the electrical wire from the kanthal wire. obviously you want steel between the copper and kanthal. Does anyone have recommendations?</p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>The ceramics store gave me steel crimps. I found that they heat up the copper wire too much though, so I recently added a screw and nut to the connector to dissipate the heat. I will update the instruct able with a picture soon. </p>
<p>Hey i was wondering if this would be able to melt aluminum </p>
<p>yes</p>
<p>I'd found a design for one of these in an old book and found a local supplier of fire bricks just didn't know what element I would need thanks to this I do now,I'll add photos once I've built it.</p>

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