I was frustrated with the price of electric burnout kilns for ceramics, metal annealing, glass enameling, and melting precious metals etc,. so I decided to build my own. Most kilns that run at these temperatures cost between $600 and $1200. With a little help from a guy at a ceramics store, I built one for about $120 (not including the power controller and pyrometer). This little electric kiln can get up to 2000 degrees F and is easy to make without any special tools besides a handheld router. I also wanted one that I could take apart and replace the element, since these are inexpensive.

1. 8 x 10" bolts with nuts- 1/4" diameter
2. 7 x soft fire bricks (4 1/2" x 9"- make sure they are soft)
3. About 7 feet of angle iron from Home Depot (this is the frame) (4 x 14" legs/corners, 2 x 9" floor supports)
4. One sheet of thin aluminum (for the door). At least a 9" by 9" square
5. One 1/4 inch x 24" coiled heating element (stretched to 29 1/2") out of 16 gauge Kanthal wire. I had this wound for me at the local ceramics store. Joppaglass.com also is good source.
6. One small hinge with screws
7. Fire proof pins (should come with element)
8. Short outdoor extension cord rated to at least 10 amps (cut down to 3 feet)
9. Variable controller-I've seen them on ebay for $20 rated at 15 amps. Try ebay or Harbour Freight Tools. I already had one with no markings from an old kiln.
10. 1" thick Kaowool- about 1 foot square

1. Hand held router with 1/4 inch bit
2. Wrench
3. Needlenose pliers
4. Hacksaw
5. Wire cutters/stripper
6. Drill
7. Tin snips

Step 1: Cutting the channels

1. Pencil the channels in as a u-shape 1/4 inch wide. I left about an inch, to an inch and a half from the edge and the top of the "U" so the elements are not too close to the opening of the kiln.
2. Route out the channels with your router using a 1/4 inch bit.
3. You will need to cut one of your fire bricks down to a square 4 1/2" by 4 1/2" for the back and route out two straight channels. This will be the back wall.
<p>Thank you for this Instructable - it was one of the key documentations I needed for making my own so that I could make my fiance's engagement ring (http://www.instructables.com/id/Casting-Rings-From-Startup-to-Finish/).</p>
<p>that is awesome! You are the first to post one! Do you have an instructable for your ring? That is a cool setting- did you make it out of Pmc clay?</p>
<p>Yes, I detailed the ring making, kiln build, vacuum chamber construction, and the necessary step-by-step guide to all (see the link above). I actually ended up 3D printing the initial ring using a polyjet printer available at school and then converting it into wax using a rubber mold (the 3D printed parts didn't burn-out the best) before casting.</p><p>I would have had a much harder time with everything without your instructable!</p>
<p>sorry, I didn't see the link:) - I love the PID controller! That is a nice upgrade-I'll have to add one to mine. I make jewelry also but I'm old school. I want to learn the lost wax casting so I'll be visiting your instructable often in the future. Congrats on your engagement!</p>
This is a great idea; but you have to do your sums, I was looking for a place to cast some gold, on a one off basis. Couldn't find anywhere so next choice was looking for second hand equipment with the idea that I could sell it on afterwards but there is very little available in the UK. So next idea was ok I'll make my own, what do I need, a kiln that will let me both burnout wax and melt gold. Perfect your kiln will do both. But if im not using a centrifugal casting system then I need a vacuum table for both the investment and pouring the metal that's ok I can build both.<br><br>Then I discovered casting houses! Yes their gold price is higher than Cookson or Rio grande but the overall extra cost is a fraction of the cost of building your kiln let alone the vacuum table! <br><br>So as much as I would like to cast the two items ill get a much better quality job done for less money with a casting house. <br><br>Dan<br>
<p>We're on Hackaday!</p><p>http://hackaday.com/2014/12/10/casting-engagement-rings-or-other-small-metal-parts/</p>
<p>That is amazing. I used this kiln to make my fiance's engagement ring too but I didn't document it like you did. I will definitely be using your walk-through to improve my process for when I start making the wedding bands! Thanks!</p>
This is great!! Simple and functional. And very well explained, I have no doubt I can make this with your instructions. Thank you so much, I would never be able to afford one otherwise.
awesome. i want to make so I can blow glass. wondering how I could do it and bam -your instructable. thanks.
Terrific!!. I have been trying to find an inexpensive kiln for copper enameling for years. Never could afford a store-bought one. Thanks. This appears to be fairly easy to build. <br> <br>Robert Larkins
An excellent project and so simple! <br>I'll be assembling one of these soon for smelting Tin (Sn) ore.
Thanks! I have been wanting to make -- not a high temp kiln, but a low temp oven for polymer clays, and this instructible gave me insight on how to construct it.
Thank you so much for showing how to make a kiln! I have been wanting one forever but where I live they usually run $1500 and up -- way out of my budget. Now I will be able to build my own at a much more affordable price. Thanks!
You are more than welcome. I was in the same boat! Necessity is the mother of invention.
Awesome Ible!!! <br> <br>Expensive store bought kilns have the same problem with the elements popping out - they heat up, expand, and voila, out they pop! (so don't take it personally!) <br>My paragon kilns have metal staples that hold the elements into the channels - they often come loose and need to be pushed back in, I believe they're just steel - would that work? <br> <br>Also, for around your door - perhaps a woodstove gasket would work? I've used it instead of foil as a gasket, works great, cheap as hell. <br> <br>Either way, nice job. Looks a helluva lot nicer than my waffle iron kiln! <br>
Thanks- your waffle iron kiln is a great idea and one of the first ones I looked at before building this. I almost built your waffle iron kiln but for some of my projects I was afraid it might be too small. Thanks for some of my original inspiration!
<p>can i build it bigger? or would that affect its use?</p>
<p>Hello sir, I was wondering how much watts this furnace uses.</p><p>I am making a furnace myself and I can only use 1500-2000 watts due to my outlets having a max of 16A AND the group being connected to the living room and fridge.</p><p>So there are little amps left for me.</p><p>My furnace (Foundry) is 0.15 cubic feet, do you think this is enough to heat it up to Alluminium melting temperatures?</p>
<p>How are people terminating the Kanthal wire? I am not seeing ceramic terminators that isolate the electrical wire from the kanthal wire. obviously you want steel between the copper and kanthal. Does anyone have recommendations?</p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>The ceramics store gave me steel crimps. I found that they heat up the copper wire too much though, so I recently added a screw and nut to the connector to dissipate the heat. I will update the instruct able with a picture soon. </p>
<p>Hey i was wondering if this would be able to melt aluminum </p>
<p>I'd found a design for one of these in an old book and found a local supplier of fire bricks just didn't know what element I would need thanks to this I do now,I'll add photos once I've built it.</p>
<p>for the thing where your elements keep popping out, I've seen another build where they cut the channels with a slope so they're wider on the inside than on the surface. that way, as the coils expand from the heat, they lock against the narrower opening rather than coming loose.</p>
<p>I have no clue if the first one posted so I will post again: How many casting cans can fit into this build?? I want to build one but i need for it to fit atleast 4 casting cans.</p>
<p>How many casting cans can fit into this build?? Looking to build it but want to make sure its big enough for at least 4</p>
<p>when you say variable controller, you mean something that works like a variac correct? so would a cheap fan/router controller would fit the bill like the one here ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVYGPJQ )?</p>
I think something like that would work- but I'm no expert- try it and let us know how it works!
Me and my brother built this kiln as a birthday present for him and it worked great once and then the heating element broke so we fixed it and it broke again and again what are we doing wrong?
I would check the length of your element- if it is too short it will get too hot and break. Also. Are you using some kind of variable control for the power? Make sure it is not plugged directly into an outlet. Where did you buy your element?
Thank you. Aces, wonderful, horray, it's like I have an answer. I too upset over high prices of burn outs:)<br>But I only thought it was possible to build homemade. But you have shown the world this possibility. Thank you very much for this post
Here is my build. I built a digital ramp/soak controller and changed the rear wiring a bit. Thanks for the idea and great instructions. Joppa Glass built the element for me.
Awesome job! I hope you find as many uses for it as I did!
<p>Great presentation. Could you be a bit more specific about the controller?</p><p>A link would help a lot understanding what to purchase.</p><p>Thank you.</p>
The reason I didn't post a link is that I didn't want to steer anyone in a direction I didn't go myself. My controller was from an old kiln and had no markings on it. I did update the instructable to offer suggestions but I really can't help anyone with that step until I buy one myslef.
<p>How wide is the inside of the kiln?</p>
Read the comments or do the math.
<p>Do you know how many Ohm's the element is? I'm trying to order one and they are asking about the Ohm's. Or can you post a link where you got your element with a model? Thanks</p>
I had my element wound for me at a ceramics store so I don't have that information. Your element will depend on the voltage of the outlet you plan to use. Mine is small, so I designed it to run on 120V while most larger kilns run on 240V. The breaker is also rated at 15 amps on my house circuit. I don't know that most ceramics places rate their elements by ohms though. Joppaglass.com rates their element by the voltage of the power source, the gauge of wire and max amperage draw of the circuit. Then you can decide on the arbor size of you element (the outside and inside diameter of the element coil) and cut the coil to the length you want. My advice is to go to Joppaglass.com and talk to them.
Alright, I've been talking back and forth with JoppaGlass and the last thing he needs to know is the gauge of the wire? Would you happen to know or have calipers to measure it? If so, he will keep this info for people who what to purchase that are following your Instructable. Thanks
I already did an update - not sure that it really matters that much as long as your arbor is the size of the channels you cut - but I am sure it is 16 gauge wire.
Thanks! I'm waiting on a quote from JoppaGlass. When I hear back and get everything built I'll post a link from them. With all the interest maybe they will stock this element. I've got all my other pieces ordered so hopefully ill have it built in the next couple of weeks.
I updated the instructable to reflect this information
<p>I am so excited to get the built but i just have one question can you link where you can buy all the materials?</p>
I didn't buy anything online - I either had the tools, or bought materials at the hardware store or ceramics store.
<p>Thank you so much for this instructable. I'm going to school for Art and definitely fell in love with sculpting. This kiln will definitely save me money to pay for the classes that'll end up costing me an arm and leg. </p>
You are welcome - glad it helped :)
<p>This instructable seems to be missing the making the element step. No?</p>
Read the instructable! I had a made for me!

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