Step 1: Supplies
- Foam board 16x20 -(Although this can be substituted for any sturdy medium, such as cardboard, I highly recommend using foam board. It's lightweight, durable, easy to cut and work with and you should be able to find a good size piece for under $10)
- Fur - For the mask, you will not need as much as I have pictured. Go to your local craft store and see if you can find them in the 9x12 sheets. It's much cheaper, and you can choose from a few different colors. 3 sheets should be more than enough for the mask.
- Ruler - Used for measuring and making cuts in the foam board. I recommend a metal ruler, but it isn't mandatory.
- Masking tape - Highly essential. Used for adding durability and shape to the frame of your mask.
- Cutting Tool - I use an X-acto knife, but anything with a sharp blade will do, such as a box cutter.
- Needle/Thread - This is for sewing the beanie to the foam board for one of the later steps. You don't have to have any sewing skills to do this, I am proof of that! But if you aren't comfortable with using this, you can always hot glue the cap to the foam board.
- Hot Glue Sticks/Gun - I cannot stress how important this is. You will need a lot of glue sticks, mostly for fur attachment. Just make sure you get more than enough, they aren't very costly. I found a pack of 20 at the dollar store for a dollar and it was enough for the entire project.
- Beanie Hat - This will be sewed to the foam board to give it a secure fit to your head. I found one at the dollar store for a dollar.
- Elastic Bands - Another dollar store special. Used to make the jaw movable.
- T-shirt/Fabric - used for giving the mask skin and structure. Don't get anything special, it won't be worth it in the long run. Something cheap will do, but I do recommend stretchable fabric.
- Model Magic/Clay - You will need very little of this. If you can substitute it for anything else, feel free to.
- Rebar Wire - You will need very little of this also. If you choose to substitute it, make sure that your substitution is very sturdy!
- Super Glue - Not necessary, but could prove useful.
- Leather Scraps - Got this at my local craft store for around $3 for an entire bag of scraps. Makes the ears, nose, and mouth look more realistic.
Step 2: The Snout
- Foam board
- Masking Tape
- Model Magic/Clay
- Cutting Tool
1: Take your piece of foam board and draw out your measurements with your pencil and ruler. (NOTE Pic 1) Take not of the different colored lines, they are important. If you wish to make the snout on your mask longer or shorter, feel free to play around with the measurements!
2: With your cutting tool, cut completely along the outside black line. Next, You need to do something called scoring. Take your blade and lightly cut the top surface of the foamboard, making sure not to completely cut through the entire board. (NOTE Pic #2) Then lightly fold the partially cut board at whatever angle looks appealing to you.
3: Take your masking tape, and place it upon the folded corners, so that it will retain the shape that you chose. (NOTE Pic #3)
4: Take a small piece of Model Magic, or clay, and form an incline at the tip of the snout. It doesn't have to be perfect. (NOTE Pic #4,5,6) Then wrap masking tape around all of the top. You use the end part of your pencil to push the clay in and give it nostils.
Step 3: Making the Jaw
1: Draw out outline
2: Cut out shape and score and fold along red lines
3: Place masking tape to secure shape.
Step 4: Making the Brow
1: First, take your foam board, and but out a small piece measureing 1 1/2 x 7. Then score the board around 5 1/2 inches up across. (Pic 1)
2: Tape the bottom of this piece to the snout of the mask (Pic 2,3&4)
3: Cut another strip with the measurements shown (Pic 5) And tape it to the first strip
4: Cut two triangular shaped pieces with the measurements shown, and tape that to the mask and second strip (Pic 6)
Step 5: Attaching the Beanie
- Needle and thread
Ok, so quite obviously (from my pictures) you can see that you don't need to know how to sew to get this done! As you can see in pic 2 & 3, I have attached the bottom part of the beanie to the brow piece.
Remember, this can also be done with hot glue, but I'm not sure how easily it might come off.
Just remember to pull the thread tightly, and lace it many times so that it stays secure. I would do one brow at a time, and then re-enforce the middle section.
Then, as seen in Pic 5 & 6, thread the top foam piece as high up the beanie as you can.
Make sure to try it one at this step. If anything feels out of place, fix it now!
Step 6: Attaching the Moving Jaw
1: Elastic Band
2: Cutting Tool
This step will either be very easy or very complicated for you. This step requires extra care and personalization.
1: First, using your cutting tool, make a hole in the far end of the lower jaw, (see pic 1) **Keep in mind that can can substitute the elastic bands for rubber bands, it's just a little harder, and if you do, make sure you find two that are similar size and elasticity. Do this for both sides!
2: Thread the elastic band through, then tie it tightly, the foam board should be able to take it.
Next step is important!
3: Do the same thing for the top of the mask, but before you do, put the entire mask to your face, and make sure that the jaw rest UNDER your chin. It's ok if you don't get it right the first time, this may take a little tweaking, as everyone's face is different. The best piece of information i can give is to make sure have the same length band on each side, and that they are placed symmetrical to one another.
While the jaw is under your chin, lift the elastic bands and see where they rest on the mask, there is where you should tie the top of your bands.
After you completes these steps, try the mask on. Your jaw should be controlling the movement of the wolf's jaw. If you're having trouble, a tip might be to attach extra foam board under the wolf jaw so that it rest on your neck more comfortably.
Step 7: Attatching the Ears
- Rebar Wire
- Leather Scraps
- Hot Glue/Gun
Like I mentioned in the first step, if you can substitute the leather/wire, go for it. Rebar wire is about $3 for an entire spool, so it isn't expensive, but we'll also be using very little. I just happened to have some lying about, so if you don't have any, I would suggest finding something very sturdy to replace it with, because this part of the mask needs a sturdy structure.
1: Measure your rebar wire, and cut off an appropriate sized piece. Stick it down into the top part of the foam brow (it should just slide right in) and the other end to the top foam of the head. Do this on each side. (See pic 1)
2: Cut out two pieces of leather in the shape of an ear. Take your hot glue gun and glue them directly to the wire. Then cut out a small rectangle and glue it to the front of the wire to secure it. (See pic 3)
Step 8: Adding Fabric
- Hot Glue/Gun
1: First, take your old t-shirt and cut up along the seam lines under the arms, effectively cutting it in half. Cut around the seam lines of the sleeves too, and save them for later.
Tip: I used a stretch shirt which made things a thousand times easier. I would highly recommend it.
Note: The color shirt you pick will effect the look of your mask, though it can always be painted in later steps.
2: Take one half of the shirt, and hot glue the bottom of it to the lower brow (pic 2) Make sure you glue all along this part and that it is secure. It's ok if the fabric is very long in the back, don't trim it! You can always trim later if you need to, it's a bit more complicated to add on.
3: Pull the fabric taut, and with your cutting tool, slice a straight line where your ear rest. Do not cut a circle, just a straight line so that you can pull the fabric over the ear and it fits tight. (Pic 2&3) When you are sure you have the holes cut properly, glue the fabric down to the center foamboard piece, then proceed to fit in your ears.
4: *Optional* If you wish to give your mask more realism, cut a piece of your leather and fold it around the eyes. (Pic 4)
5: Take one of your sleeves, and fit it around the snout, and between the eyes. It's ok if it looks a little wonky at this point.
Tip: If you want to make it look as if your wolf is snarling, bunch up the fabric along the bridge of the nose, especially closest to the eyes and nose.
Remember, this entire part will not be covered with fur, so make as many detail show as you want!
6: Glue a piece of fabric on the inside of the roof of the mouth. The more you bunch it up the more realistic it looks. Note mine isn't bunched up at all, but I would recommend doing it if you want the detail. (Pic 6) Do the same thing for the bottom jaw. (Not pictured.)
7: I did this part a little backwards in my photos, so what i would recommend doing at this step, is adding the leather around the gums. (pic 8) It will be easier if you do this step first. This is also optional, but if you choose not to do this step, try to add something there because this part will be showing a lot, and you don't want it to look like foam board.
8: Pull the fabric up and let it hang down at certain points on the snout to give your wolf a snarl.(Pic 7) Cut away any unneeded fabric, but be sure to leave it hanging under the eyes.
Step 9: The Nose
I will suggest two ways of doing this.
1: Cut a piece of leather in the shape of pic 1.
2: Glue it directly to the modeling clay, press it down on top too.
3: Color the modeling clay with a black sharpie or paint.
1: Get an old stuffed animal (a pretty large one)
2: Cut off the nose and glue it to the front of your mask. (pic 3&4) These pictures are from my first mask, and the nose i picked is a little small, but it's still effective.
Step 10: The Fur!
- Cutting tool
- Hot glue/gun
1: Take your fur and flip it over. Place your ruler about a quarter of an inch from the top, and run your blade lightly along the back fabric. Don't cut too hard, you don't want to cut the fur at all. (See pic 1&2) The fur should come out in easy to work with strips.
2: Take your hot glue gun and start gluing your strips. See pics 3&4 for where to start. Just keep gluing strip after strip, and remember, the strips do not have to touch. Space them out a bit, but not so much that you have visible gaps. I added a bit of white fur around the eyes and at the bottom of the cheeks for detail.
3: *Optional* As you can see in pic 7, i painted my snout. I used acrylic paint, and lightly dry brushed white/grey paint along the front of the snout. Depending upon what color shirt you picked, this may make the mask look a lot better.
Note: If your shirt is a lighter color, paint it darker around the eyes and let it gradually get lighter toward the snout. I have an example of my first mask (see pic 8) The shirt was white to begin with, but i watered down some black and brown acrylics and gave it some color.
Step 11: Adding Fur 2
1: Same process, just make sure you add enough fur to the back of the mask. If you need to add extended fabric, just cut another piece of your t-shirt and hot glue it to the bottom of the first one.
2: Be careful when adding fur from the cheek to the jaw, make sure it doesn't restrict the movement of your jaw. let it hang and bunch.
Step 12: Adding Teeth
1: First, take some leftover foam board and with your scissors, cut some oblong triangular shapes (see pic 1) Make them unique, you don't want them to be perfect. Scissors work good for this because the teeth come out a little jagged and I think that gives a good effect.
2: Glue them however you see fit! If you want long fangs, go for it! Pictured below is my complete process of adding teeth.
3: Details: I took some red acrylic paint and diluted it with water. I then grazed the edges of the teeth and around the gums to make them look less perfect and a bit more threatening.
4: I also used gobs of hot glue around the teeth for support and to give the effect of drool. I let some parts drip and hang down.
Note: You can substitute the foam board teeth for something more realistic if you desire.