Most PVC applications, i.e. the ones they are designed for, do not require very critical procedure for joining pieces together, because most of the time the fluid going through them is not under pressure. However, certain high-strain applications, such as Spud Gunning, require that the joints are strong and airtight. The way to achieve that is proper solvent welding.

The stuff that you get at the store to put together pieces of PVC is labeled "Cement." This is a misnomer. The "cement" class of adhesives, such as contact cement, rubber cement, etc, all are used to bond two, usually dissimilar, materials together. PVC cement is actually a solvent. Welding involves melding two pieces of the same material into one. (Hmm, I wonder if there is a connection).

When you solvent weld PVC, you are actually turning the two sides that you are joining into PVC mush, the molecules all blend together, and what you are left with is essentially one single piece of PVC.

Step 1: Materials

-Two pieces of PVC you want to join
-PVC Primer (it's usually purple, some places sell a really nice clear variety, if you want it to look nice you can get this stuff. Some spudders like the industrial look of the purple stains)
-PVC Cement
*Often you can get dual-packs of PVC cement and primer
-Paper towels

PVC primers and solvents contain mostly ketones. Using commutative logic here, ketones are strong solvents of PVC. Aside from bonding applications, PVC should NOT come in contact with ketones, as it stands a chance of weakening the pipe. Ketones, such as Acetone and Methyl Ethyl Ketone, should NEVER be used as fuel for combustion spudguns.
<p>Hi! I know this seems to be a pretty old article, but would anyone happen to know if this would work with PVC coated wire? I'm looking to make a bird cage, and trying to avoid just buying premade meshes (which are all that come up if I try searching for a way to weld the stuff together).</p>
<p>Thanks for a great article. Solvent welding PVC<br>pipe, fittings and valves can be very tricky, especially as the glues used are<br>such high strength chemicals, the smell alone can give you a massive headache<br>and nearly knock you out! If anyone would like any further reading on this I<br>have attached a link to a website which has detailed technical information on<br>PVC pipe systems, with a picture based step by step guide to the gluing process which I have found very helpful <a href="https://www.eeziflo-fittings.com/technical" rel="nofollow">https://www.eeziflo-fittings.com/technical</a> I have also attached the image to this comment. </p><br>
<p>Has anyone figured out a good way to safely thin PVC cement? I can't tell you how many cans of this stuff I have had to throw out because, invariably over time, the cement thickens into a useless gel substance. I was wondering about diluting it with acetone. Would that make it unsafe to use? The primer seems to last years, but the cement only lasts several months to a year. </p>
<p>Screw lid on tight and turn glue can upside down. Glue lasts longer this way.</p>
<p>I have two 2inch pieces of pvc that will not glue together with the pvc glue. Has anybody ever had this problem.</p>
<p>If you were trying to glue two pieces together end to end, that will never work. You need a properly sized coupler fitting to do so.</p>
<p>If you were trying to glue two pieces together end to end, that will never work. You need a properly sized coupler fitting to do so.</p>
<p>That's probably not PVC, It may be polyethylene. </p>
<p>Off Topic: Is there a practical way to slow down (additives?) the set time of PVC cement/adhesives? I have a pool project that requires some fine adjustment before the joints set and the cement I've found has been far to quick.</p><p>I have found slow set adheasive but these are sold by the pallot.</p>
<p>I see that is a DWV fitting. These explode more easily than pressure PVC pipe, but all PVC explodes easily with air and is like a shrapnel bomb.</p>
<p>I'm well aware. This is addressed in my PVC cannon instructable (link at the bottom of step 6. Basically, what I learned from the whole experience is that it doesn't matter much even if you use pressure rated pipe, with potato cannons, you're pushing the limits of structural strength (pipe is designed to handle predominantly static pressure loads, and cannons cause all sorts of weird shock loads), and ought to be operating in a manner in which you would be physically safe in the case of fragging, such as behind a barrier. </p>
BTW, here is what I will be making thanks to your advice on how to solvent weld PVC! I am making this for a neighborhood improvement project in St. Paul.
That's really cool! So you will be welding the PVC &quot;sideways&quot;, i.e. wall-to-wall? That's a little different than welding pipe-in-joint, but I think it can be figured out with a little experimenting. <br><br>Also, do you know about clear primer? There is clear primer available, though I don't remember where to get it at the moment.
Oh...it's a bench.
Above, the author writes, &quot;If you are doing tons of fittings, you can go ahead and prime everything, it's perfectly fine to prime parts ahead of time, so long as they don't get dirty before cementing.&quot; <br>Below, readers are in agreement to never let the primer dry before applying solvent. <br>Are these just 2 different opinions? <br> <br>I am about to solvent weld 210 pieces of PVC pipe together. It would be super helpful to learn that I can prime ahead of time! <br>Thanks for any guidance.
The PVC cement contains the same solvents that are present in the primer, so if the issue is &quot;wetness&quot;, then it doesn't matter much if the primer dries on the pipe. My understanding of what the primer is doing, is dissolving into the surface of the plastic, making it swell slightly and more porous. This allows the cement to form a stronger bond to the surfaces. If you let it get REALLY dry, like 30 minutes, then most of the solvent will have evaporated out and the plastic will shrink back to its original size, and it'll lose some effectiveness (but it'll still be &quot;roughed up&quot;). By &quot;dry&quot;, I mean dry to the touch. It'll still have solvent dissolved into the plastic for a while. <br> <br>Between evaporation and absorption into the plastic, it's virtually impossible to cement it while it's still runny-wet with primer. It's mostly dry to the touch within seconds. <br> <br>Neither the primer nor the cement can instructions (on the cans I have) say anything about wetness or dryness of the primer before cementing. If it were critical, they would mention it. <br> <br>This source says that it's okay to let it dry before cementing. <br> <br>http://www.ehow.com/how_5664571_use-purple-primer-pvc-cement.html <br> <br>However, Oatey, which is another brand I haven't used, says you should glue while it's wet. <br> <br>http://newsite.oatey.com/Channel/FAQ.html#Q09 <br> <br>So, I wouldn't wait more than 5 minutes before applying the cement. For 210 pieces, you should do it in batches. I'll update the instructions to reflect this. (This is an OLD instructable...haven't done much to it in YEARS! :P )
(This comment might be inappropriate and off topic comment but this chemophobia is really getting under my skin.)<br> <br> I think California is the only state in which &quot;carcinogenic&quot; is defined as literally a one in one million chance of giving you cancer with normal exposures. When they got to point they were labeling sand,<em><strong> sold for the express purpose of being used in sandboxes for children</strong></em>, as a &quot;carcinogen&quot; they'd pretty much jumped the shark and become worthless. Now people can't distinguish between phantom and real threats and they end up shying away from learn new skills like PVC solvent welding and instead take up <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benzene" rel="nofollow">benzene</a> gargling instead.<br> <br> The moral here is don't let politicized panic labels scare you off from making and learning new skills. Plumbers and builders work with this stuff for hours, every day, for decades and they don't have higher cancer rates than vegan liberal-arts professors. If they can survive years of exposure you can survive a few minutes.<br> <br> The real immediate danger from working with PVC solvent or any other strong smelling volatile substance (including some food stuffs) is that almost all of them cause vasodilation in the brain which can lead to dizziness, fainting and disorientation. If you work in an enclosed, unventilated area, you're basically &quot;huffing&quot; and might hurt yourself while impaired.&nbsp;<br> <br>
Well said. I'm a chemist myself, and I personally can't stand chemophobia and chemical paranoia. The warning is written a bit sarcastically (and I wrote it a long time ago), but I should revise it to accurately reflect the hazards. <br> <br>The principle volatile components are MEK, THF, and cyclohexanone. Of those, only cyclohexanone poses really any concern, which is listed as non-carcinogenic, but mutagenic in mammalian somatic cells. I work with much, much nastier chemicals at work on a day to day basis.
haha mythbusters say that
WARNING: SCIENCE CONTENT duh duh duh duh duh duh duuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhh
Should I let the primer dry? Also, bang the can's top down onto somthing hard, it'll break the seal quite nicely.
NEVER LET THE PRIMER DRY!! sry but that would make your glue not adhere at all and it would go boom ><
so what does "PVC Cleaner" do? when we built our potato ca-- i mean put together some pvc for legitamate reasons, we used cleaner, then primer, then cement.
I mean it won't hurt, but I don't think it's necessary. The primer itself is basically pure Methyl Ethyl Ketone and Ethyl Acetate, two really strong solvents, and what it does it soften the surface chemically so it can bond. In the process it takes off a lot of the gunk on the surface of pipe. I try to just clean the pipe up by conventional means, e.g. wiping dirt and dust off with a paper towel, and if necessary, I will take off any label stickiness with GooGone. I never use the cleaner product and never had any failures due to it.
You can also use Tangit for gluing PVC.We use it for all our PVC that is not heat welded.<br/><ul class="curly"><li>Tangit is a Henkel product FYI.</li></ul>
As long as it's approved and pressure-rated for PVC pipe.
Good idea! Now all the other cannon'ibles only need to include a line that says <em>cement the parts together, see <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/id/EERMJL7F6B7STJG/">here</a> to find out how</em>.<br/><br/>I predict many future references to this project.<br/>
Yathink? :is flattered: I can't wait to put the video out, I already made one attempt and the camera's tiny mic made me sound like I had a lisp to rival Christopher Lowell. As for the glitch, I dunno, I think Instructables.com has been acting a little funny today.
what glitch?
Why not leave the speech off? Or add it as a narration?
i presume that this is not food safe and is there any food safe pvc solvents out there that i would be able to get out here in the uk. any help would be much appriciated. thanks
Yeah I know....:guilty face: I mean if I wasn't a student and had unlimited cash yeah. But no, which is why there is home depot. But yeah for reference you should always get pressure rated parts.
I know its cheap but you shouldn't really be showing this picture with DWV parts if people are going to use this how-to when gluing their pneumatic gun together. Just say that its DWV and not to use it :P You should chuck this in the how-to section at SF while your at it.
Nice! BTW, what does the primer actually do? (I understand priming in conventional painting and gluing, but not for welding.)
It's actually almost the same. Priming in painting prepares the surface for adhesion of the paint. PVC priming cleans the surface, then starts breaking down the molecular surface of the part. It digests it a bit so that it's easier for the PVC solvent/cement to dissolve it. IIRC primer is mostly acetone/methyl ethyl ketone
Huh? I clicked <strong>+</strong> to show my approval, and the total rating came up as zero. Who's taken a dislike to it already? Why, for goodness' sake?<br/>
Alas, instructables does have bullies :/ It's unfortunate - I remember finding a few around contest times. But it really doesn't change anything as negatives won't change contest outcomes. It's especially disappointing when contestants do it to fellow contestants :/

About This Instructable




Bio: My goal in life is to be a chemistry professor, because a) I've had lots of awesome influential teachers b)Bill Nye kicks ass ... More »
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