So you're a HUGE Deadmau5 fan and have been aching to get your hands on one of those sweet Mau5 heads - but NOT one like some of those epic fail's you've seen some people wear... you want a legit head that will be envied by all.  Well, I'm here to help.  The process is long, it takes a huge amount of determination and patience, but I promise you, in the end, you will have the sikkest Mau5head of any you've ever seen! 

Alright, LET'S GO!!!!

14” acrylic lamp post globe with 5.5” neckless opening – any color www.superiorlighting.com
6” acrylic lamp globe – white www.superiorlighting.com
4’x8’ Dow blue extruded polystyrene Styrofoam sheet 1/2” thickness
12” fully threaded rods 8/32” diameter (4pcs)
1 ¼” fender washers (4pcs)
8/32” wing nuts
Professional grade ratcheting hard hat
Lighting for eyes, can use LED’s – I use EL wire from www.coolneon.com
2yds fabric – 4 way stretch is best
Hot glue gun and glue sticks
Liquid Nails for foam adhesive and applicator gun
Stitch witchery
Clothes steamer
Ball end sewing pins
Dremel with bits for cutting, sanding, and drilling
Jigsaw or open ended hacksaw
Fabric measuring tape
Single-edge razor blades
Small jaw clamps
Metal Mesh Food Cover Dome
Nylon tights or sheer chiffon for mouth
Electrical or duct tape
Poster board
Sharpie marker
Safety Glasses
Protective Gloves
Wire cutters
Rubbing Alcohol
Black Spray Paint

Getting Started:

Before you begin building your own Mau5head, there is one thing I cannot stress enough, take a great deal of time in the beginning to PLAN. Not only are the collective materials needed an investment, but to create your head properly, it will also take a lot of time – you want your final product to be worthy of all the blood, sweat, and tears that go into its creation! Find a few reference pictures to work from for inspiration and keep those at your work desk, it will help you to visualize along the way, as the head won’t look like much until it all comes together in the end.

For the most accurate replica, a 14” acrylic globe should be used, however if you are very petite a 13” could be used, or if you’re of a larger build you may consider a 16” globe, but in most cases the 14” will be ideal. My measurements are based off of a 14” diameter globe, if you should use a different size, please keep this in mind and adjust your measurements accordingly.

Step 1: Marking Your Globe

The first step is to mark grid lines on your sphere dividing it into quadrants. DO NOT rely on the little “nipple” opposite the neck opening to determine center, these are often off by a half an inch or more and can throw off your entire layout if used as the midline. Measure 19.25” from the edge of the opening at several places to find the center opposite the neck. Divide your globe into vertical quadrants intersecting at this point. Make a ring of poster board 44” in circumference that will fit perfectly around the globe at its widest point, and use this ring as your guide in drawing the lines. It will help you create a very accurate, crisp line easily. After both lines are drawn completely around the globe, measure from the center point down 11” on all 4 lines to locate the equator midline of your globe. The old phrase, “measure twice, cut once,” applies here as much as it ever could! Before proceeding to the next step, recheck your measurements one last time to make sure they are all equal.

The neck opening should be angled toward the back to both look the best and have the most natural angle when worn. The easiest way to map out the circle for the opening is to create a ring out of your poster board that measures 9” in diameter and place it on the existing opening front. The remainder of the circle will extend slightly up the back of the globe – be sure to check that the ring is equal on either side so that your opening will not be lopsided. Secure with tape, trace around ring with a sharpie, and remove poster board ring.

The mouth opening will rise slightly above the equator line in the center. Mark a dot 5/8” above the equator on the front center line to determine the high point on the mouth. Measure 6 ½” down from this dot to find the lowest point of the bottom lip and mark this point. Now place a dot on the equator line ½” in front of the side line on each side, this will be the outer edges of the mouth. Again, strips of poster board will be incredibly helpful to create even, straight lines. Use tape strips to secure the poster board across the globe starting with the center top point to outer edge points, draw your line with a sharpie. Then, using the same poster board strip, repeat this on the bottom edge from the lower point up to the outer edges. This will create a perfectly curved lower lip, and perfectly straight upper lip.

Don’t worry about marking the ear position yet, we will do that once the ears are built.

Thanks for the directions! <br> <br>I think it came out pretty well. I hand stitched the globe material and used simple battery operated xmas lights for the mouth and glow sticks stuck in the eyes...simple but effective! <br> <br>My 10 year old (and his brother) love Deadmau5, and he felt like the real thing...what more cold a mom ask for? <br> <br>;)
<p>thats sweet. i love it. my favorite pic is the middle, it has that mysterious glow</p>
how cute!!!
Thank you so much for the instructions, they were fantastic!!! Along with Deadmau5's released specs on the Mau5 head (http://www.jadorehousemusic.com/make-your-own-deadmau5-head-8d/), it all came together really well. Unfortunately, I jumped the gun and cut out the neck hole before measuring anything...so it made it about a billenty times more difficult to get things accurate and straight. The ears ended up a smidge off and the upper lip not quite as high as I liked, but, meh, you live you learn. The next one will be even better! I didn't want to tackle adding cloth to mine so I recycled old materials for the covering on the head and ears (CD's I previously ripped to digital and cut apart with tin snips) and hot glue gunned each piece on after spray painting the head glossy black ;) I added fusion reactor lights in each eye and EL wire around the ears.
I LOVE the creativity!!!!! Great job! Thank you so much for sharing =)
Just made mine in time for Halloween. Brought it to school and everyone loved it :) Thank you so much!
Awesome! Thank you for sharing!!
I guess it helps if I post it haha the eyes glow up too.
Here it is! Made it just in time for this year's halloween! <br>Thanks for the instructions! wouldn't have been able to do it otherwise :D
Yay!!! You're very welcome, happy to help!! Looks wicked!!
Image uploader wasn't playing ball. <br> <br>here we go!
Great instructable, really easy to follow and allowed for me to add my own customization without losing faith in the integrity of the Mau5head. I plan to make two more heads this winter (Monster Energy inspired and a ironMau5 (iron man) <br> <br>Red EL Wire <br>White LED and RED/BLUE flashing eyes <br>Red Equalizer
Awesome!!!! Can't wait to see the next installment! Thanks for sharing with us!!!
Great tutorial! Really helped me with my Mau5. Love from JA.
I used your very well-done directions to make a deadmau5 head for my boy for Halloween this year.&nbsp; Here are a few tips/tricks (wall of text warning):<br> <br> <br> Use a new very sharp blade to cut the foam for the ears and lips.&nbsp; My cuts weren't the cleanest as I was out of blades at the time and used the old one I had in my utility knife.&nbsp; Too much crumbly edges.&nbsp; I was able to sand down the edges to clean a lot of it up, and the fabric does hide most imperfections.<br> <br> <br> When cutting the acrylic globes, I used my dremmel.&nbsp; Go back with a utility knife to clean up any flashing (jagged edges of plastic that remains along the cut edge).&nbsp; Don't use the dremmel sanding bits.&nbsp; I did on my eyes and it chewed a few of the edges more than I would have liked.&nbsp; Hand sanding the edges worked fine.&nbsp; I ended up lining the edges of my eyes with a black rubber trim that I used to line some metal edges when I hacked a hole in my computer case.&nbsp; It actually looks nicer than just having the plastic eye glued onto the head, imo.&nbsp; It looks like this stuff:<br> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5096<br> <br> <br> As frustrating as it was to get the seams done cleanly, in hindsight I might have checked about painting the thing.&nbsp; My material was very stretchy.&nbsp; I think it was 19% lycra and came from the &quot;dance fabric&quot; section at the fabric store.&nbsp; My kids said it felt like bathing suit material.&nbsp; I think it was too stretchy, in fact.&nbsp; It was hard to cut a straight line.&nbsp; When you give the fabric a slight pull to cut the seam close, it will never result in a straight line cut over a few inches.&nbsp; This may also be a result of my expectations of a seamstress-quality job, though.&nbsp; From a few feet away you can't really tell, and it's fine for my purposes.<br> <br> <br> I used double sided tape to hold down my fabric along the back of the globe.&nbsp; I started by clamping the fabric on the bottom lip and working it back to a piece of double sided tape along the back, then trimmed the bottom piece along the tape edge.&nbsp; Then I put another piece of tape adjacent to the first and used that for the top piece of fabric.&nbsp; You can pick the fabric up off of the tape and work/stretch it to remove wrinkles.&nbsp; To finish it, I laid a piece of the stitch witchery stuff on the bottom piece and pulled the top piece over top and fused them together.&nbsp; Then I went back and trimmed the top as best as possible.&nbsp; Trimming the bottom piece precisely wasn't as crucial since the top piece covered it.&nbsp; I spent a little more time trying to make a clean cut on the top.<br> <br> <br> Speaking of clamps, these paper clamps worked well and were cheap:<br> http://www.thezigzagger.com/2011/12/29/cable-holder/black-paper-clamp/<br> <br> <br> I had to use very small dabs of glue to hold the stich witchery in place.&nbsp; It slipped off when I was doing my first ear and made a bit of a mess of the first seam.&nbsp;<br> <br> <br> Keeping the hardhat glued to the inside of the globe was a big pita.&nbsp; After roughing up the surface and drilling holes in the hat, I dumped a bunch of hot glue on the top and held it in place, but it was still weak.&nbsp; I cut four simple braces from the foam used for the ears and lips and braced the hat to the sides of the globe.&nbsp; Worked great to steady it up.<br> <br> <br> I let my kid pick the colors and lights;&nbsp; he chose red.&nbsp; Unfort, red EL wire is not really red.&nbsp; It's more of an orange.&nbsp; I personally liked the &quot;blue-green&quot; color because the wire itself is clear until it's turned on.&nbsp; I used really cheap EL wire from Amazon.&nbsp; Thatscoolwire.com or coolneon.com have nicer and brighter stuff.&nbsp; Some EL tape would have been neat to trim the ears, too.<br> <br> <br> I used some cheap Fusion Reactor necklaces for the eyes.&nbsp; This company sells them and other blinky party junk on the cheap.<br> http://www.windycitynovelties.com/gcssearch.aspx?w=fusion<br> <br> <br> I pulled them apart and soldered this battery holder to them.<br> 2 x CR2032 6v battery holder with switch<br> http://www.adafruit.com/products/783<br> <br> <br> I wanted to move the EL power sources out of the head.&nbsp; Less weight on my kid's melon, plus it moves the high-pitch driver for the EL wire away from his ears.&nbsp; He'll just snake the wires down to his pocket.&nbsp;<br> <br> <br> I originally drilled the holes for the eye lights too small for the connectors that I soldered onto the reactor necklace.&nbsp; I used the side of my soldering iron to make the holes bigger (and squared them off since that was the shape of the connector).&nbsp; Probably not healthy for your iron, but I didn't want to mess up the fabric after working so hard on it.<br> <br> <br> For the mouth I used a roll of metal mesh like this:<br> http://www.lowes.com/pd_90-16418-122410_4294753353__?productId=3160773&amp;Ns=p_product_price|0<br> Somebody suggested this red mesh food cover from Camping World.<br> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/mesh-food-covers/6536<br> I tried it and it wasn't big enough.&nbsp; The metal mesh I used was pretty easy to work with since it came in a roll.&nbsp; It wasn't hard to shape it for the mouth.<br> <br> <br> I also added some teeth.&nbsp; Using the piece of the globe I cut out for the mouth made it easy because it was already shaped.&nbsp; I sprayed it with some silver adhesive glitter spray to give it a little shine.<br> <br> <div> http://youtu.be/05fwlbaN5HM</div>
Great comment man, thank you! I really appreciate and respect the collaboration of everyone on this instructable's comment thread. YOU GUYS ROCK! <br>
Really great work and thanks for the explanation on the fabric. I have read all of the comments a ton of times, and I am at the final stage of getting the fabric on the head. I have spent hours trying different techniques but have taken the plunge of cutting of debulking the fabric. So it seems you have a seam at the bottom-back of the head? I am considering using your technique, so any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated
My suggestion: <br> <br>1. Lay one piece of tape horizontally across the entire back of the globe and stretch either the top or bottom piece of fabric to it. I used clamps and/or pins to keep the opposite end anchored to the lip in the mouth. <br>2. Smooth it out and glue it permanently behind the lip in the mouth. <br>3. Trim the fabric tight to the tape. No need to leave any overhanging. No need to be overly neat here because we will cover the seam (see step 6 below) <br>4. Then lay another piece of tape directly adjacent to the first and do the other half. <br>5. Trim this piece tight to the tape, too. Cutting stretchy fabric with scissors sucks--I didn't have a clean seam, so... <br>6. I made a &quot;cover up&quot; piece. My wife informed me that proper fabric cutting is done with a circular blade like this: <br>http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/cutting-fabric-for-quilting.htm <br>I cut a piece approx 3/4 of an inch and put some stitch witchery behind it and fused it over top of my seam to hide the uneven cuts. <br> <br>In my pics below, the first one is the ugly seam I orig made. <br> <br>The second pic show what my cover-up piece did to hide it. <br> <br>Mine is even more bumpy because of my first attempt to make the seam without the cover-up. If I would have planned on using the cover-up in the first place it would have been smoother. The flash on my camera coupled with the sheen of the material seems to over-emphasize the bumps, too. <br> <br>In hindsight this approach would have worked well for the ears, too.
sigpop - fantastic description and pics. This is exactly what I was looking for and am sure it will help many others as well. My wife has one of those cutting wheels, so I will definitely use it to cut the 'cover up'. One more quick question - does the cover up piece go all the way around to the corners of the mouth? Thanks again for the great info.
Yeah, mine goes all the way around. Looks kind of like an extension of the top lip if you view the head from the side. It would be nice to have no seams, but that seemed impossible. Thankfully you can't see the seam from the front.
I hear ya on the impossible - just dont see it. I cant even begin to see the seam on the front of the head in your pics, so thats great. heck thats the whole reason I asked since they dissapeared in the pic. Looking forward to going with this method tonight and finally finishing up. Thanks again for all of the great tips
We didnt have a lot of time before our cub scout party, but we combined our love of Deadmau5 and Star Wars to create our own Droids n Stuff
omigosh how fun are these!?!?!!
Thanks for the instructions Intrica! A lot of trial and error. This was my first Deadmau5 helmet. Deadmau5 with a touch of Iron man.
Love it!!!!!! <br>
Followed the instructions and added an internal aluminum frame, glowing eyes that show X's when on are blank when off, and ventilation fans
great work!!!! love the incognito X's on the eyes!
Finished mine a while ago, but forgot to post here. Thanks for the awesome tutorial!
VERY unique! Great job! Hope you can breathe in there =))) <br>
Thanks, I can breathe fine in it, actually. I do have a little trouble seeing out of it sometimes, but I can see just enough.
Finished my 2nd one. Never again will I touch a rhinestone. Thanks again for this amazing guide!
Looks GREAT!! Awesome job! =D
Hi Intrica, <br> <br>Just wanted to say thanks for the instructions. I found the dimensions, tips and advice on certain parts very useful in the construction of mine! Its built from fiberglass, bodyfiller and the mouth is even made from perforated aluminium metal sheeting. I think it turned out class! Couple of imperfections on it but they could have been fixed had the time frame not been cut so short. I wanted it for the gig last week so ran out of &quot;casual&quot; time. <br> <br>Nonetheless, check it out!!
TOTALLY KILLER!!! Amazing job! Gotta ask, though, how much does that bad boy weigh? :yikes: <br> <br>Excellent work my friend, please, please, please send printed pics to Joel at his fanmail address. HE. WILL. FLIP. !!! =D <br> <br>Thank you so much for posting pics, and sharing your work with us, phenom job man! woot!
I just spent about half an hour creating this template for the ears because I am, unfortunately, a perfectionist. It is all done with the ruler on Microsoft Office Word 2010 and cannot be viewed correctly on a lower version (I tried, sorry!). All you need to do is print on four 8.5&quot;x11&quot; size pieces of paper, line up the cross on each paper, tape, and cut out everything except the <strong>red section</strong>, including the <strong>purple part&nbsp;</strong>at the &quot;bottom&quot;. It is the official dimensions of the Mau5head. Have fun making this! Great instructions, by the way.<br> <br> <strong>NOTE:</strong> This template only works for <strong>14&quot; diameter</strong> Mau5heads.
For those of you without Microsoft Office Word 2010. I am unsure if the dimensions translated correctly into the .pdf file, but they should have. Please let me know if there is a problem.
there seems to be a problem that i had with this the final measurement came out to be about 12.6&quot; instead of the 13&quot; im going to use the 12.6 out of laziness but i just wanted to point this out
To be honest, I skipped the &quot;two-halves make a whole&quot; method and went directly to a 1&quot; thickness ear. I cut the Styrofoam using an Exact-O-Knife (after tracing the template onto it) and then used a <strong>drill press</strong> to create two identical, parallel holes in the material. I suppose the only problem with this is that everybody doesn't have a drill press, but if you do or have access to one, I definitely suggest this method.
Thank You! :D <br><br>It's such a treasure to me, I love how I made the back logo a special light, you can't tell it's there when it's off!
LOVE IT!!!!!<br>
This is amazing!!! Thanks so much. I made a Christmas hat with the deadmau5 Christmas ornament at the end, and I think it worked out really well. <br><br>Have you tried to do anything with other materials, and accessories? I love the top hat in your other photo, and some of your other designs. <br><br>I'm currently trying to experiment with making a fiberglass head, and also painting them. Have you gone into this area at all, and have any advice?
You're welcome! Thank you so much for posting pics!<br><br>I love to do silly stuff with my mau5heads, whether it be adding accessories, changing out different ear colors on the same head base, or going totally crazy with the styling (as shown in the pink mau5head I made for his gf Lindsey!) Be creative, add your own flavor to it, have fun with it!<br><br>I personally would not make the head out of fiberglass, as it would require too much resin and fiber to be strong enough, and although it sounds easy to get a perfect sphere, i can assure you it is not. You can paint the acrylic if you wanted to, no reason not - many people have done that with great success.<br><br>Keep us posted on future ideas!
I'm working on the Mau5 head right now. My goal is to get a finish similar to the attached video. I want to get the really black glazy look. <br><br>So far I'm fiber glassing the globe. Originally I was going to do something similar to what the guy did, in this video. However I had a little bit of a cracking problem, and I felt the best way to get a good result without hurting the quality of the globe was to fiberglass it. <br><br>I put fleece over the globe (I read that it sticks to plastic better than fiberglass). Now I'm fiber-glassing over the fleece. It is taking a lot of resin, and I'm having to go over some areas because I ran out of resin. However it's coming along ok.<br><br>It is taking a lot of effort and time, but I hope that the finish should be worth it. Right now I'm stalled because I'm up north and the temperatures have gotten to be very cold. Since I'm in college and in an apartment, I have limited space to do it when it's cold. I also hope to stincle, it. <br><br>One thing I want to play with is adding a lasers to the eyes, as seen in the second video. Though I will have to play with spacing, power, and weight. <br><br>I'll keep you up to date with how it's going, and results. <br><br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8wHUJDedTU&amp;feature=related<br><br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiXVHDsge74&amp;list=PL376B5FD486314B33&amp;index=7&amp;feature=plpp_video
Awesome! Thank you for posting pics, so cute! =)<br><br>I like to do original, creative stuff, and really the possibilities are limitless. I have a whole bunch of ideas in the works for future builds using exotic materials and off the wall design elements. You really can come up with so many different directions to go with the heads.<br><br>As far as fiberglass, I personally would avoid it. To obtain the amount of strength you need it tends to be much heavier than the acrylic, and a great amount of surface finishing to get a truly smooth spherical shape. If you want to go with a cloth/resin composite I would opt for carbon fiber of carbon/kevlar. That would be pricier, but much much lighter than fiberglass.<br><br>I've seen many painted heads, and they actually turn out quite nice, and resemble many of the new heads that Joel is having made that are vacuum formed. Those are not covered in fabric, but rather are vac formed with a colored acrylic or painted after the fact, so you could easily replicate that look. I would recommend using the standard acrylic globe for the head piece, and then perhaps using your fiberglass as an outer overlay over whatever material you choose to use for the ears. That would give you a very close replica of a vacuum formed acrylic piece.<br><br>Keep us posted on the progress of your future builds, I would love to see how they turn out!
Hey Intrica! I finally finished my second Mau5head! <br>Rockermau5! :)<br><br>( as modeled by my friend :D )
Awesome! Love the creativity!!<br>

About This Instructable


430 favorites


More by Intrica: How to make a Deadmau5 Christmas ornament that lights up! How to build your own Deadmau5 mouse head helmet!
Add instructable to: