I wanted to convert my energy wasting incandescent torchieres to LED but there isn't an LED bulb powerful enough to get even close to the amount of light I was used to.  So I built an adapter to let me use 4 LED bulbs at once without affecting the appearance of the torchiere at all.  Now I use 150W less energy every time I turn it on.

In my home we have three very nice torchiere floor lamps.  They are rated up to 250W each and I have 200W incandescent lamps (bulbs) in each of them.  Two of the torchieres are in our living room and are the major source of light in that room.  I wanted to switch over to LEDs, but I'm not aware of any screw-in LED equivalent for a 200W incandescent bulb.  

Soooooooooo..... I decided to see if I could retrofit the Torchiere to take four LED lamps (Four 60W equivalents).  The LED lamps use 12.5 watts each so my fix uses 50W and produces as much light as the 200W incandescent I'm replacing. 


4 - Philips AmbientLED LED light bulbs
4 - ceramic light sockets (optional in my case)
Screw-in Socket Adapter (Socket to receptacle)
Add-on Plug, polarized
1/8 inch thick sheet acrylic plastic (recommend polycarbonate)
18 inches of electrical cord
Liquid Tape
silicone caulk 
epoxy glue
Electrical Tape 


Hand and machine tools necessary to shape the acrylic/polycarbonate sheet
Wire strippers
Soldering Gun (140W or greater)
screwdriver if the Add on Plug body takes one

CAUTION - This is an electrical project utilizing hazardous household (mains) voltage and current.  Making a mistake can result in property damage, personal harm or even death.  You need to be familiar with electricity and its hazards.  If you are not knowledgeable and comfortable with this project do not attempt it.  You take full responsibility for the project you build.  I may be taking risks that are acceptable to me, but may not be acceptable for you or your circumstances.  Build at your own risk.  If you do not understand or have questions consult a professional electrician.  Sorry for the disclaimer, but if you burn something down or kill yourself it's your own fault.

Step 1: LED Lamp (bulb)

I chose to use the Philips Ambient LED bulb also known as the Philips EnduraLED bulb; 12.5watts, 800 lumens, 2700K (warm), dimmable.  This bulb is very similar to the L-Prize lamp (http://www.lightingprize.org/60watt.stmhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L_Prize) that won the US Department of Energy prize for an LED bulb that closely matched a standard 60W incandescent but uses <10W.  The Philips AmbientLED was available for sale before the L-Prize lamp and has specs that are not quite as tight as the L-Prize lamp, but cheaper, and good enough.  In my area the AmbientLED bulb is available at Home Depot for $15 (heavily subsidized by local utilities).  I purchased my first one back when they were originally introduced at $40.

Both the AmbientLED and L-Prize lamps are the funny looking bulbs that look orange when not energized.  The plastic lenses have phosphor in them that gives the lens the orange color.  The bulb uses BLUE LEDs behind the lens so that when the blue light strikes the phosphor in the plastic the phosphor glows white.  This apparently has some efficiency advantages and helps with consistent light color.  'Regular' white LEDs are also blue LEDs but have the phosphor applied directly to the LED die (silicon) but Philips separates them for this bulb.  I popped open one of the orange plastic lenses and you can see the blue LEDs inside.

These LED bulbs are very bright and virtually match the color of a 60W incandescent.  They are also estimated to last 25,000 hours, or 22.8 years at 3 hours per day, per the box.  See my side by side comparison of a 60W incandescent to the 12.5W LED in my torchieres.  However, 60W is not enough so on with the build....
Nice work, this is a neat build and a good way to deal with LED bulbs that don't put out quite enough light.<br> <br> I think I'd want to fully enclose the wiring, because any exposed wiring at mains voltage would make me twitchy- there's the obvious electrocution risk, and any insects that get inside (as they tend to do with lighting fixtures) could get fried and be a potential fire hazard.
Thanks for the comment. <br>I feel the same way. I wanted to enclose all the wiring but sockets just would not fit. But you will note that I did put in the 'ible that the exposed live electrical parts should be coated with &quot;Liquid Tape&quot; a coating product that is supposed to provide electrical insulation. I may revisit the design in the future to see if I can slant the bulbs and get sockets to fit.

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