I built a couple of wooden sheds (okay, glorified yard barns) and wanted to equip one of them with sliding type barn doors. I like the look of sliding doors and they are very practical for a shed, allowing a much wider access opening than a normal door. But after visiting my local building outlets to check out the cost of the track and installation kit hardware I would need for such a project I developed a bad case of sticker shock. The cheapest place I could find was Tractor Supply, and even there the price for just the barn door hardware (not the doors themselves) ran from $246 to $326, depending on how fancy I wanted it to look.

So I began to snoop around for some sort of alternative I could fabricate myself. And the biggest obstacle to any DIY sliding doors turned out to be the wheels/rollers. I needed something that was made for exterior use, would roll smoothly, and that was heavy duty enough to take abuse while not costing an arm and a leg. While prowling around in my shop for something that fit the bill I happened to stumble on my son’s old skateboard. And the wheels looked like a perfect candidate for the job.

After a few minutes of price shopping online I ordered a set of four skateboard wheels and bearings from Newclue Inc. via Amazon. The total price of the wheels with shipping was $17.35.

Next I needed a rail for the wheels to glide on. I found the solution in the electrical department at Home Depot. It’s called Superstrut, and a 10' length sells for $15. Superstrut is a three-sided channel of heavy gauge galvanized steel. Unfortunately it didn’t come in 12' lengths, which is what I would have preferred to use, so I had to purchase two ten-footers for $30. To provide a little additional strength I topped off the Superstrut with two 6-foot lengths of 1x1 angle iron at a cost of $26. I doubt this extra precaution was necessary and think the rail could be built without it.

The hangers themselves are fairly simple. 1½" x 1/8" flat stock steel was bent into a U shape and then drilled to accommodate the axles for the wheels/rollers. I bought two 4' lengths of the flat stock from Orchard Supply for a total of $18. The other miscellaneous nuts and bolts I used came to $3.

My finished sliding barn door hardware cost a grand total of $95. Yes, this is quite a bit more than simple hinges and a hasp lock, but it is also well under the cost of the very cheapest commercial price for barn door sliders of $246.

Here is how I fabricated the barn door skateboard rollers.

Step 1: The rollers/wheels

These photos show the skateboard wheels and bearings as they arrived from Newclue. The wheels are 1 9/64" wide and 2" tall.

<p>A sliding barn door sounds like a pretty cool project to maybe try and work on. It's something that I have yet to see since my plan is to find a door to install for my shed. My guess is that maybe a roller door would be something neat to have installed.http://www.mtiqualos.com.au/mti-see-thru-products/roll-fast-doors</p>
<p>thanks. this changes everything. all i need is skateboard wheels, bearings, and long bolt and some washers. then anyone can get creative with how to mount them to the doors. so I guess, I can think of alternative to the metal hangers.</p>
<p>thanks. this changes everything. all i need is skateboard wheels, bearings, and long bolt and some washers. then anyone can get creative with how to mount them to the doors. so I guess, I can think of alternative to the metal hangers.</p>
<p>This is cool. I'm wondering why not just use full strut channel and the hanging trolly deals you can buy for it. A four pack costs like $15. And it is done right out the gate. Just have to fix the door to it and hang the strut channel. Is it just the aesthetic? </p>
<p>By all means, if you can find all the hardware for a sliding barn door for $15, jump on it. Better yet, share the materials list with sources and costs here on Instructables. That would help a lot of people out.</p>
<p>Great idea</p>
that's awesome
Did this project two summers ago. Thanks again for the awesome and cost-effective solution.
<p>I can not find this particular wheel (or other vendor with similar size) on Amazon. I can find the correct height, but not the correct width. Do you by any chance have the part number from Newclue? You mentioned almost any wheel works, but most of the ones I am finding are quite wide. I assume at some point, i would lose stability. Thanks for the help and the directions are great!</p>
My invoice from Newclue says Item # 280722030363 and the description line reads &quot;50mm Black Skateboard wheels and bearings set ABEC-3 Deck Skateboards Decks&quot;. Hope that helps.
That's a great idea! I am building a shed/tiny home in the woods. I plan on using a sliding barn door like yours. Any thoughts on waterproofing the door? Thanks!
Waterproofing and weatherproofing would be quite a challenge with this type of door. If you need a tight seal (for habitation) I'm thinking a french door type design might be something to consider (assuming you want/need the extra width). Maybe some other Instructable commenters will have a better suggestion.
<p>It&rsquo;s a three sided channel of heavy gauge galvanized steel. <br>Unfortunately it didn&rsquo;t come in 12' lengths, which is what I could have <br>best used, so I had to purchase two ten footers for <br> <br>&lt;a <br> href=&quot;http://barndoorhardwarekit.net/&quot;&gt; barn door hardware <br> kits&lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>It&rsquo;s a three sided channel of heavy gauge galvanized steel. <br>Unfortunately it didn&rsquo;t come in 12' lengths, which is what I could have <br>best used, so I had to purchase two ten footers for <br> <br>&lt;a <br> href=&quot;http://barndoorhardwarekit.net/&quot;&gt; barn door hardware <br> kits&lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>It&rsquo;s a three sided channel of heavy gauge galvanized steel. <br>Unfortunately it didn&rsquo;t come in 12' lengths, which is what I could have <br>best used, so I had to purchase two ten footers for <br> <br>&lt;a <br> href=&quot;http://barndoorhardwarekit.net/&quot;&gt; barn door hardware <br> kits&lt;/a&gt;</p>
<p>I LOVE your idea of using skateboard wheels! I wrote a barn door track tutorial on my blog right here <a href="http://www.lynneknowlton.com/diy-door-track-hardware-its-dbomb-dot-com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.lynneknowlton.com/diy-door-track-hardwa...</a></p><p>It's a free tutorial if you want to have a look. We couldn't find wheels anywhere, and ended up having our wooden wheels made by the local Amish. They are super pretty. So many people asked me about them, I now sell the wooden wheels on my blog. </p><p>I have had some people on my site mention skateboard wheels, but I have never seen them installed. LOVE your pics! Some of my readers have even made wheels from hockey pucks. LOL. We are definitely Canadian :) </p><p>It's crazy how expensive door track hardware can be if you don't make it yourself. I have seen some of it get as high as $800. Wowsers! </p><p>Cheers!!</p><p>Lynne from Design The Life You Want To Live blog xx</p>
<p>What is the mm on the wheels</p>
<p>As noted in Step One, the wheels are 2&quot; in diameter (50-52mm). Virtually any size wheel will work just fine.</p>
Nice! Should be smooth and really quiet. Any concern about water collecting in the track?
<p>We use this type of rail at work to support electrical conduit. It is also called Uni-Strut and comes in two sizes. Junior uni-strut 7/8&quot; tall, which is what dewey302 is using, and regular, which is approximately 1 3/4&quot; tall. Both of them will last 20+ years in an industrial environment.</p>
We live in the Central Valley of CA so rain/water is not something we have to contend with all that much. The C-channel is also very open, allowing for evaporation, so I don't think standing water would be much of an issue even in wet climates. If it is of concern or if it turns out to be a problem in some climates, you could drill a few weep holes in the bottom edge of the channel for the water to escape.
Yeah I was thinking, that cutting the rail?? in two and then to set the angle so that the doors open more easily or close more easily - or are self opening or closing when unlatched... just like the sliding fire doors - that would also drain and help the leaves and dirt and water drain away.... but as the guy before said, use a cover over the lot.
<p>Are your doors just 2X12's on a sheet of wood with 2X4 framing? This idea looks great. Hopefully replication is as easy as you make it look! </p>
<p>The doors are made of 1x8 tongue and groove siding material (same material that covers the shed itself - Home Depot or Lowes) screwed onto a 7/16&quot; OSB panel and then trimmed around the edges with 1x4 material nailed in place. However, I would not recommend making your doors this way...at least not in geographic areas of intense heat/sun. Or at the very minimum SCREW the trim pieces in place rather than nailing them. The OSB tends to warp, as does the trim, and over time the trim nails will pop loose in spots. After a year in the direct sun of Central Valley, CA, my trim has begun to separate from the door and I am going to have to rebuild them to remedy the situation. Just haven't gotten around to that project quite yet.</p>
<p>I learned from my brother to use 'deck screws' on everything....they don't work loose...<br>I mean everything...inside and out...</p>
<p>Exactly what I need!! so many many thanks...<br>yes, I too had sticker shock when pricing 'real' barn door hardware!!<br>I want to make a pair for inside...using nicely silvered deck wood that was used on my mom's ramp &amp; deck....good memories when I think of her(not that she is gone)<br><br>This will be in a 12' wide older mobile home...I am certain I will be needing to do some extra prep work to be able to safely hang them...<br>These will be put at the 4' wide arched opening into what used to be a small bedroom...it will usually be open. unless I am lucky enough to have a guest. </p>
<p>Ha! I wish I had seen this Instructable! I just attempted a sliding door system but, like you, reeled back in sticker shock when I saw the hardware price. In fact, I gave up on hanging hardware and placed casters under the door instead (</p><p>http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Big-Metal-Riveted-Sliding-Door-for-the-mad-/) but I had really wanted a hanging door, sooo.... I may go back and revisit the project. Thanks, really great Instructable!</p>
<p>Has anyone thought about making this into a &quot;bypass&quot; door with two tracks (similar to a glass shower door)? This would be great for a shed that needs the entire side to be accessible. Any tips?</p>
like the new phrase &quot;sticker shock&quot;. FYIthe channel is &quot;uni strut(UK) available indiffrnt sizes and almost certainly cheaper from an electrical supplies wholesaler, also useful brackets etc etc tosuitl hope this is helpful. WWW
if anyone has adapted this plan to closet doors-- specifically, shoji screen doors, could you please post? it's exactly what I have in mind, but I'm not savvy enough to figure it out.....
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm attempting to build a very similar setup for my tool shed. I will post pics once it's done.
Nice. I've done something similar using the 'C' hooking onto a the same bar attached to the door. No wheels so needs to be kept clean and greased.
I so love this!!!! I was trying to figure this out for shelving I made in my kitchen.... This wouldn't have worked for it because my shelf wasn't strong enough to Handel your materials... But you have my wheels turning again and I want sliding doors for my future pantry and other rooms.I love love love
Excellent and ingenious work! I have skateboard wheels set aside for a similar project, but hadn't thought of the security of having the bracket behind the rails. Thanks for sharing!
I was wondering something. Would this project work with the hardware and doors mounted on the inside of the barn instead of the outside? I think that would look much cleaner.
I think it would work. But keep in mind that all the wall space the doors will take up is space you can't use for benches, shelving or hanging stuff from the walls. So it would come down to personal taste and how you might want to utilize the insides of your shed/barn/building.
or make the doors slide between an inner and outer wall. i.e. it is 3 layers - outer wall, door, inner wall. the walls don't have to be thick. marine ply.
I don't understand the need for the Superstrut. Surely, all you need is the angle iron? What am I missing?
I built the rollers and hung the doors first just using the angle iron and it deflected quite noticeably under the weight of the door. I then tried the superstrut and it did not deflect.
Ah, I see. Well that makes sense. Had similar problems myself. But worth mentioning on your instructable that you don't need a superstrut, as such....but just a length of anything that does not deflect.<br><br>I really like your sliding doors concept.
In the end, it looks like you could eliminate the superstrut and just use the angle... Definitely wouldn't be any issue of length availability then.
As I have mentioned to some other posters, the angle iron alone did not work. I tried it and it deflected quite noticeably. I was of the same opinion as you at first...convinced that the angle iron would be the best alternative. It just didn't prove to be the case.
This is a brilliant idea, and for me just in time as I am going to be making a storage enclosure and this will work way better than what I had in mind. Very timely. Thank you for posting this. Love it.
melic79, you can buy Uni-strut at your favorite big box supply or local hardware store.
I want something like this, for the door that lead to the dinning room, but where did you buy the rails that you used?
This is an awesome tutorial. Rather than hanging against a barn, I wanted to build a trellis over my backyard fence and use the sliding barn doors as an entrance/exit. This track will definitely work (and save a ton of money!), but I can't figure out a way to make it lock. It would need to unlock/lock from both the inside and outside. Any thoughts?
Very nice! Definitely something i will keep in mind. <br> <br>I did something similar with pocket door hardware from a 1920s house we remodeled. <br> <br>The hardware is hidden under an overhang that has the added benefit of keeping it out of the elements. <br> <br>Cheers !!
Nice! I only need a barn now!
Job well done, thank you for sharing this awesome instructable. I have been looking for something like this for many months and could not get over the cost of the hardware.

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