Device which can detonate or ignite just about anything you want it to. Made for safe ignition of fireworks but with some skills you can make this fine case and put anything you want on the end of it.
Heres the link to the PYRO DETONATOR 1: http://www.instructables.com/id/Detonator-box-Ignition-box-Fireworks-Pyro-box/

Step 1: Getting started

So firstly these are the things you will need.

A hobby case, I used the one you see in the picture
A toggle switch with red cover
7.2 volt rechargable battery with plugs on the end (rc car)
Push switch (red)
Key switch (with keys)
Jack plug (not quite shore which one it is, you see it in the picture)
Jack plug socket with lock
pull ties (tiewraps)
Led with fitting
Isolation tape
Sticker maching
30 meters of wire(more or less)
<p>can u add a wireless detonator in your PYRO DETONATOR 2?</p>
How about that sweet-looking key switch? I've been looking all over to try and find one, but all I was able to find is a momentary switch: you need to hold it to keep the current flowing. Any others were all from these Chinese bulk ordering sites that the minimum order is 500, and I don't even know if they're the right ones. Anyone I ask about this, even at a hobby store, look at me like a grew another head out of my ar-...well....out of somewhere.
any good electronic's store will have various key switches.....radio shack used to to have them, but they don't anymore....
Radioshack is a dissapointment, they can barely even be considered as an electronic store anymore. Last time I went there I asked for magnet wire and they looked at me like I was insane.
&nbsp;they dont have nichrome either :(
<p>you can find nichrome wire in soldering iron</p>
Same thing happened to me too, but instead they gave me a roll of speaker wire and told me it was the same thing.
that jack is a 6.5 millmeter jack
6.35mm/ 1/4&quot;
ive got my own website!
Try either ebay or elliot electronics (wholesale or retail) 12volt ones are easier to get but finding a 120 volt switch is harder.
ACE hardware had one for 20 bucks.
OLD COMPUTERS... get some old Pentium 1s most of them have key switches L.E.D and L.E.D displays speakers and etc.................
Where can i find the jacks
How to wire jack and wires
Hi, why do you need to use a jack plug? How do you connect it?
How does this work? how does it ignite the actual fuse of the fire work/ C4? (jk about the C4) <br>please help
I conceived something like this after watching the build team on Mythbusters touching bare wires to power tool batteries in order to ignite their various explosives. I never got around to building it, and then I was watching season 8, episode 5 and saw them using one to light some model rockets. Awesome.
can i just use a rechargeable 9v battery for ease.
No, it doesn't have enough the ability to disharge enough current.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-bomb-no-potassium-nitrate-used/step3/Put-the-igniters-in-an-empty-box/ <br> <br>Please check this out. It is my first instructable. I would really appreciate it as i am only 13 :)
Wait... What type of jack socket do you use?<br>Anyone answer please<br>
its a 6.35mm or 1/4&quot; jack
Just used your guide to make my own - great job
Quick Question: Can this system be used alone to fire a flash pot? <br>Much Appreciated
Quick Question: Will this system alone ignite a flash pot? <br>Much Appreciated
Im not sure which one is the jack, and if anyone can<br>Please send a link where you can buy it<br>Thanks<br>
Also, What type of jack socket do you use?<br>Anyone answer please<br>
You could use a potato cannon, but remember that they are felonies in California, florida and several more
Very smart Piece of kit !
What is there to blow up? Wat can you use as an ignitable substance?
I was thinking on maybe testing it on firecrackers. just a thought
the suger, the KNO3, provides the oxigen to make the energie containing suger ignite.<br />
50% pottasium nitrate 50% molten sugar - let it go hard and lite it :P<br /> make lots of smoke (but stand back, explodes 1st)<br />
PLEASE help with the case!!! Cannot find!!!
go to any hardware store<br>
hi i was wondering i found a website where thej sell the batteries <br>they have a difference in mAh i dont know how much i need <br>nice guide <br>greetings joel
Ok quick question. Considering the modern day understanding that electricity (flow of electrons) comes out of the negative (black) side of the battery and goes through the load (in this case the switches and buttons etc) and returns back to the battery at the positive side of battery, here is my question....... Looking at the wiring schematic, if the electricity is coming out of the negative (black) side of the battery, then it appears that the first thing the electricity goes to in the circuit if the phone jack which has wires leading to the explosive. So, why is it that when you wire it like this, that the electricity can only flow to the explosive if you flip the switch and hit the momentary push button? Because, in my mind according to this schematic, if the only way to complete the circuit would be to turn the key on, flip the switch, and press the monentary button, then wouldn't the electricity HAVE to be coming out of the positive (red) side of the battery? If this question seemed confusing, someone just please explain to me EXACTLY where the electricity from this battery is entering the wires and EXACTLY where it is coming out of the wires and entering back into the battery. Thanks
Electricity only flows when there is a path for it to flow. And it flows pretty much instantaneously so, for all practical purposes, the direction of the flow does not matter. The electricity doesn't go right to the explosive jack because the circuit isn't complete, and thus there is no path for it to flow. You should read up a bit on Electronics theory. :)
No, I understand that. What I am saying is I would think that the current must be flowing in the direction that the key must be turned first, then the flip switch must be pressed, then the mom push button must be pressed for this thing to blow something up, right? The reason I say that is because if the current is &quot;everywhere&quot; at all times the circuit is closed, then this ignitor would blow something up without the key on or the flip switch flipped on right?
no electrons can flow till they key is turned- the battery only has 1 terminal connected otherwise. then electricity will flow through the wire with the green led as there is another full circuit. next the arm switch must be pressed so electricity can flow through the green led still then as far as the fire switch. when that is pressed, the electricity flows through all parts of the circuit. and then... BOOM!!!
HHHEEEELLLPPPP, can anyone answer my last post?
Hey, my toggle switch has 3 leads, power, acc, and ground. I soldered the pos. wire to the power and the neg. to the acc. Is that right? Oh, and i'm also using 2 jacks instead of one but using the pos. lead on one and the neg lead on the other. Is THAT OK? AND I couldn't find a key switch so I bypassed it altogether. When I plug the battery in the LED lights up. If I push the button when the toggle is off and I have a piece of wire between the two jacks the LED stays on. When the toggle is on and I push it the LED turns off for as long as I hold the button. Is that what's supposed to happen? Oh, AND I'm using a 9v instead of a 7v rechargeable.
Oh and (I can't believe I didn't notice this before) my toggle switch has an LED embedded in it. I'm guessing that that's what the ACC lead is for. But how would I wire that so that the LED in the switch lights when it's in the on position? I hope you don't mind but I borrowed your schematic and edited it to show you what I mean. I have little faith in the second one.
Okay, so I've solved my switch problem, sort of. I figured out that I can't have the LED in the toggle light up when it's thrown because the circuit isn't closed until the button is pushed and if I connect it directly to the negative pole of the battery then I bypass the rest of the circuit which is pointless. Now I have another problem. It doesn't ignite anything. I've tried just touching the battery to some steel wool and it burns it up, so I know that it should work. However, when I test the detonator cables with a multimeter, I only get 7.11v. When I just test the battery I get 9v. I'm losing power somewhere but I can't find it. The edited schematic above shows my setup, just ignore the wire connected to the ACC lead on the toggle. Help plz.
You're probably losing voltage in the toggle switch's LED, that's what happens with mine. Mine also doesn't ignite anything. I can never get a spark between the two copper wires (which is what I'm trying to get for this potato cannon I'm making with some other chaps.)
A spark through the air requires massive ammounts of voltage, in the thousands of volts range. You'll never get that with a 7v or 9v battery. You'd be better off using a servo grill ignitor.
did you connect the negative wire to the ground? i used this switch in a headache machine, and i soldered the neg. wire from the battery holderto the ground, the neg. wire from the buzzer to the ground. then i soldered the pos. wire from the battery holder to power, and the pos. wire from the buzzer to the acc. terminal. my solder sucks, and on the acc terminal it didnt stick, so sometimes the buzzer doesnt go off, but the light does, so im guessing it still gets power from the batt. would it also be possible to use more than 1 9v so you get more power? hope i helped!
the switch will work (you did soldered wires correctly) the LED is lighting properly 9 v is better than 7 v so... you're fine ;)

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Bio: I would really like a lot of tips for my projects Thanks LARS
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