I have a "through the Looking Glasses" idea of making another version of  Palm Arduino.

Since this design derived from Palm Arduino, I will called it Palm Arduino II.

This Palm Arduino, the Second, will be the combination of Palm Arduino and Portable 5V Voltage Regulator.
So that everything is staying together closely in the same package!

Palm Arduino II will be a little smaller, 1-3/8" wide x 2-3/8" x 1/2" thick (Palm Arduino the First are 1-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long x 1/2" thick), so it will be fit on the back of the 9V battery holder.

Palm Arduino II will be powered by separate PCB installed on top of 9V battery holder that has both 5V and 3.3V regulator.


Palm Arduino II

Parts for Palm Arduino II are exactly the same as Palm Arduino, less 3mm Green LED and 1K Resistor.
I changed the nuts and screws size to 4-40 instead of 2-56.

1 no.  ATMega328P with Arduino Bootloader
1 no.  3mm Green LED
1 no.  1K Resistor
1 no.  10K Resistor
1 no.  16Khz Resonator
2 nos. 0.1uF Capacitor
1 no. 1x6 Male Header
1 no.  1x14 Female Receptacle
1 no. 1x4 Female Receptacle
1 no. 1x6 Female Receptacle
1 no. 1.375" wide x 2.375" long, 1/8" thick clear Acrylic sheet
Plastic Standoffs
Some hookup wires

2 nos. 4-40 Flat-Head Machine Screws
4 nos. 4-40 Steel Machine Hex Nuts

Voltage Regulators PCB
1 no.   Slide switch
1 no.   1N4001 Diode
2 nos. 100uF Electrolytic capacitor
1 no.   10uF Electrolytic capacitor
1 no.   0.1uF Capacitor
1 no.   78L05 Voltage Regulator, TO-92 package
1 no.   78L33 Voltage Regulator, TO-92 package 
1 no.   PCB about 7/8" wide x 1" long

2-pin Female socket with hookup wire

Step 1: Build Palm Arduino II

Since the Palm Arduino, the Second is the decedent of Palm Arduino Kit.
There is no different in how to built steps between the First and this one, except Palm Arduino, the Second does not have pin D13 LED and resistor. 

So instead of repeating the steps, I would referred to these Steps from Palm Arduino KIt:

Step 2: Straighten the pins

Step 3: Added Power and Ground

Step 4: Bring out the pins
This is a great instructable! However with all due politeness, i would say that these directions can be of even more value if you consider proofreading what you have written before posting! It just makes it a bit hard to read/follow. All the best
Thanks for the compliment. <br>And thank you for your kind comments regarding the proofreading prior to posting the instructable. Sorry that I could not do better on my second speaking language. <br>sincerely. <br>sath02 <br>
is it possible to get the diagram of this done up on eagle at all as I can not read the current diagram
Sorry for the late reply. <br>The diagram can be found here: <br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-The-RevIO-Arduino-Clone-My-Way/ <br>
this is so cool so i voted for you in the laser printer comp. <br>
Thanks for your vote.
The dead bug method might have been cool too for the motor controller. Nice project. <br>
I like the 'dead bug method'! <br>I chose to put the motor controller on the PCB bacuse I want to show that we can mount a PCB right on top of the Palm Arduino II. <br> <br>Thanks for a kind words.
This is awesome! I voted for you in the contest. Good luck, good job, and I'll make this soon!
Thanks. <br>
Had to follow the project. I have been working on motor driver for awhile. Lots of reading and note taking. This will be a good resource for looking at the diagram to get a better feel of the chip setup. <br> <br>Thanks for the posting <br> <br>
Thanks. <br>
What are you using to cut and drill the thick acrylic?
Hi, <br>I used razor saw to score down the surface a few millimeter deep, on both side, then break it by pushing an edge against the hard surface. Or you can use the plier to break it apart too. The 1/8&quot; Acrylic is not that thick. <br>To drill the holes, I start with small drill bit and increase the size of the bit till you get the size. I used Dremel's Rotary Tool to drill the hole. <br>Sath02

About This Instructable




Bio: I am Electronic Visualization Artist. I look at things through the Looking Glasses.
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