Introduction: Palm Arduino II

Picture of Palm Arduino II

I have a "through the Looking Glasses" idea of making another version of  Palm Arduino.

Since this design derived from Palm Arduino, I will called it Palm Arduino II.

This Palm Arduino, the Second, will be the combination of Palm Arduino and Portable 5V Voltage Regulator.
So that everything is staying together closely in the same package!

Palm Arduino II will be a little smaller, 1-3/8" wide x 2-3/8" x 1/2" thick (Palm Arduino the First are 1-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long x 1/2" thick), so it will be fit on the back of the 9V battery holder.

Palm Arduino II will be powered by separate PCB installed on top of 9V battery holder that has both 5V and 3.3V regulator.

PARTS

Palm Arduino II

Parts for Palm Arduino II are exactly the same as Palm Arduino, less 3mm Green LED and 1K Resistor.
I changed the nuts and screws size to 4-40 instead of 2-56.

1 no.  ATMega328P with Arduino Bootloader
1 no.  3mm Green LED
1 no.  1K Resistor
1 no.  10K Resistor
1 no.  16Khz Resonator
2 nos. 0.1uF Capacitor
1 no. 1x6 Male Header
1 no.  1x14 Female Receptacle
1 no. 1x4 Female Receptacle
1 no. 1x6 Female Receptacle
1 no. 1.375" wide x 2.375" long, 1/8" thick clear Acrylic sheet
Plastic Standoffs
Some hookup wires

2 nos. 4-40 Flat-Head Machine Screws
4 nos. 4-40 Steel Machine Hex Nuts

Voltage Regulators PCB
1 no.   Slide switch
1 no.   1N4001 Diode
2 nos. 100uF Electrolytic capacitor
1 no.   10uF Electrolytic capacitor
1 no.   0.1uF Capacitor
1 no.   78L05 Voltage Regulator, TO-92 package
1 no.   78L33 Voltage Regulator, TO-92 package 
1 no.   PCB about 7/8" wide x 1" long

2-pin Female socket with hookup wire



Step 1: Build Palm Arduino II

Picture of Build Palm Arduino II

Since the Palm Arduino, the Second is the decedent of Palm Arduino Kit.
There is no different in how to built steps between the First and this one, except Palm Arduino, the Second does not have pin D13 LED and resistor. 

So instead of repeating the steps, I would referred to these Steps from Palm Arduino KIt:

Step 2: Straighten the pins

Step 3: Added Power and Ground

Step 4: Bring out the pins

Step 2: 5V and 3.3V Regulator PCB

Picture of 5V and 3.3V Regulator PCB

Use the same Schematic of the Portable 5V Regulator, with addition of 3.3V Regulator (See Schematic for details). Which perfectly fit on the top of 9V battery holder  (7/8" wide x 1-1/8" long.)


5V Portable Regulator
I placed the circuit right on the 9V Battery holder with double sided foam tape.
The circuit was one side circuit.

I placed the components on the solder side of PCB board, because I wanted to use the component side of the PCB to stick to the foam tape and place it right on the top of the 9V battery holder.

The 5V Portable Voltage regulator consists of

Slide switch
1N4001 Diode
100uF Electrolytic capacitor
10uF Electrolytic capacitor
78L05 Voltage Regulator with TO-92 package
and 2-pin Female socket with hookup wire
PCB about 5/8" wide x 1" long.

The schematic of this 5V Voltage regulator is from my notebook when I started to learn embedded electronics.  As when I first learned why the diode was added. Because it blocks current from flowing in the opposite direction. And it will block current from flowing backward and damaging the system if you accidentally hook up the power supply the wrong direction.

To built this Portable 5V Regulator is quite easy.
Just solder the components according to the schematics.
And be careful about the polarity of the the diode, and capacitors.
For the 78L05 IC also need to be careful on the pins connectivity.

I used 2-pin female socket as the power connector.

Step 3: Add the Cover

Picture of Add the Cover

Cut a piece of Acrylic (I used 1/8" thick) to size (1-3/8" x 2-3/8").

Drill two holes. By using an existing hole on the bottom of the 9V battery holder as the guide to drill the first hole.

Drill the second hole on the 9V battery holder make sure that the hole is not too close to the FTDI male connector. Then use this hole as a guide to drill the hole on the Acrylic cover.

Insert 4-40 flat head screws into the holes from the battery side of the 9V battery holder.

Place the Acrylic cover in place. Put the hex nuts in.

Step 4: Test

Picture of Test


Hook up the FTDI Cable
Load the Sample Blink.ino to Palm Arduino II.
Disconnected the FTDI cable.

Since this Palm Arduino does not included the test LED on pin 13. 
So we have to insert the LED into pin 13 (LED positive lead) and Ground (LED negative lead).

Turn the ON/OFF switch on the Regulator PCB on.
After a few seconds the LED will blink.

We have the working Palm Arduino II! Yippee!

Step 5: Usage Demonstration: Motors Driver Board (SN754401 IC)

Picture of Usage Demonstration: Motors Driver Board (SN754401 IC)
This step was added to show how I used Palm Arduino II to control motors by added DIY motors driver board using SN754401 (or L293D) IC, instead of just showing Palm Arduino II blinking the LED!

Build the Motors Driver Board

Cut PCB to size 7/8" wide x 1" long


Test Motors

To test the motors I used the code from this instructables "Control your motors with L293D and Arduino", shown in step 3.
Thanks guibot.


Overall dimension (included Regulators PCB and Motors Controller PCB, and Jumper Wire Connectors)
1-7/8" Wide x 3" Long x 1-3/8" Thick


Video





Comments

cslexer (author)2013-09-22

This is a great instructable! However with all due politeness, i would say that these directions can be of even more value if you consider proofreading what you have written before posting! It just makes it a bit hard to read/follow. All the best

sath02 (author)cslexer2013-09-23

Thanks for the compliment.
And thank you for your kind comments regarding the proofreading prior to posting the instructable. Sorry that I could not do better on my second speaking language.
sincerely.
sath02

wnorman (author)2013-03-01

is it possible to get the diagram of this done up on eagle at all as I can not read the current diagram

sath02 (author)wnorman2013-03-04

Sorry for the late reply.
The diagram can be found here:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-The-RevIO-Arduino-Clone-My-Way/

Bindi 3000 (author)2012-09-08

this is so cool so i voted for you in the laser printer comp.

sath02 (author)Bindi 30002012-09-08

Thanks for your vote.

apburner (author)2012-09-03

The dead bug method might have been cool too for the motor controller. Nice project.

sath02 (author)apburner2012-09-03

I like the 'dead bug method'!
I chose to put the motor controller on the PCB bacuse I want to show that we can mount a PCB right on top of the Palm Arduino II.

Thanks for a kind words.

Pizzapie500 (author)2012-09-01

This is awesome! I voted for you in the contest. Good luck, good job, and I'll make this soon!

sath02 (author)Pizzapie5002012-09-01

Thanks.

shonlh (author)2012-08-31

Had to follow the project. I have been working on motor driver for awhile. Lots of reading and note taking. This will be a good resource for looking at the diagram to get a better feel of the chip setup.

Thanks for the posting

sath02 (author)shonlh2012-09-01

Thanks.

calas (author)2012-08-30

What are you using to cut and drill the thick acrylic?

sath02 (author)calas2012-08-30

Hi,
I used razor saw to score down the surface a few millimeter deep, on both side, then break it by pushing an edge against the hard surface. Or you can use the plier to break it apart too. The 1/8" Acrylic is not that thick.
To drill the holes, I start with small drill bit and increase the size of the bit till you get the size. I used Dremel's Rotary Tool to drill the hole.
Sath02

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Bio: I am Electronic Visualization Artist. I look at things through the Looking Glasses.
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