Poltergeist : From the German for “noisy ghost”.
A metaphysical entity which announces its presence with rapping, banging and general mischief making.
It wasn’t easy, but I’ve got one shut up in this box. I call him Piecax. Sometimes he will lie quietly and make you think he’s gone, then startle you with frenzied knocking. Other times Piecax will have fun by echoing you. Find his favourite number and he might play you a spooky tune. Watch the video to see Piecax in action.
Thanks and credit go to JKestner whose Knock Block gave me the inspiration for this project.
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Signing UpStep 1: The Box
I did this first so I wouldn’t be waiting for varnish to dry once I’d built the circuitry.
I started with a cheap softwood box from a craft shop. I clamped a rotary sander upside-down in a vice and rounded the corners and smoothed the sides, starting with a coarse sanding sheet and finishing off with fine. A final rub over with very fine paper and I had a smooth rounded box but a bit of a boring colour.
To bring out the grain I gave it two coats of walnut woodstain and then for the gloss, three coats of yacht varnish. The first coat was diluted with thinners to make it soak into the wood and give it more hardness and a good base for the other coats.
A quick raid on my sons' lego sets and I had a casket fit for a ghost.











































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Thanks again for this great project
Madbutler
ps Are you working on any other 08m2 inventions using this great new chip with touch capabilities and a bigger memory?
Thanks for your instruction AndyGadget...
I do some changes in the speaker / microphone section and add a flash signal durin knock!
Cheers
Admiral Aaron Ravensdale
Thanks Jessy. It needs updating as the parts list appears to have disappeared at some point and there's a problem when using the latest version of the microcontroller, but I'm on it.
I hope i found until next week some time to post it here. But you can see it still on my website http://www.steampunk-design.de/useite.php?Klopfgeist pls change into english language!
cheers
Thanks for your instruction AndyGadget...
It shouldn't be a problem - I thought the PE accepted the old pin syntax for the 08m2 as well as the new and the old code should have worked as well as your version. I'm off to work now but will swap mine for a 08m2 later and investigate.
It's great that you're using this as a school trainer. That's what the PicAxe was primarily for.
Thanks for the extra information.
What you describe is very strange. I'll definitely look into it.
I didn't get a chance to try this tonight - Should do tomorrow though.
I spent some time on this tonight and there is something strangely different with the 08m2. I didn't get the transistor heating you were seeing, but I couldn't get it to respond to the piezo knocks. If I manually took the input high it would only produce one knock no matter how many times I triggered it. I'll continue at the weekend. (Maybe it's haunted #;¬)
thanks again
The 08m2 has more memory for peek and poke, but the addresses I used in the original are part of that, so not the problem. The weird thing is that it's not recording the knocks. I can see the input on my 'scope (as you're doing with the LED) and the levels are there. I'll get it sorted at the weekend - It's one of those annoying things which should work . . . but isn't.
It looks as though the PIC the 08m2 is based on is a bit fussier when it comes to it's inputs (although the levels I'm seeing with a 'scope should be triggering it). A bit of signal conditioning is needed to get this working again, rather than the 'it works so I'll leave it as it is' approach I used initially. The code timings are also different between the 08m and 08m2 so the loops need adjusting. I'm working on this.
A bit of tidying up in in order though.
Add the lines :-
LOW Knock
LOW 1
immediately after the declarations section, at the top of the man code.
This will sort your FET heating problem and also grounds a pin which was floating as an input before. It would have overflowed the memory on the 08m. Also tie physical pin 4 (I3) of the chip to ground.
(The 'LOW knock' is a quick fix. The gate should really be pulled down via 1K or so to keep the FET turned off when the pin is an input.)
I'll let you know when I've sorted it.
Readadc may be the way to go, but I'm still trying to work out why the existing code isn't detecting the good high level on the input pin. I had a setback today when my 'scope started fizzing and the display collapsed - EHT breakdown, which it occasionally does on humid days.
I'm away for a couple of days but will pick this up on Wednesday - It's bugging me!
With my limited electronic knowledge I added a transistor to boost the signal, but this made it over sensitive (recorded knocks and every other vibration) and then you cant play it back through the piezo. Tried even a capacitor with similar luck. It seems it needs just a little stronger signal but my lack of knowledge to do this lets me down.
I intend to get to the bottom of this as I can see no reason it shouldn't work, but my problem at the mo is that my 'scope made a final "fzzzzzt POP!" the other day. I'll definitely let you know once I've got this sorted and found a fix.
Now that is strange - I'm sure that step 2 used to have a whole chunk of text including notes on the electronics and a parts list. It looks like the Instructables editor may have eaten it. (Strange things have been happening with the recent 'upgrades'.)
Closest thing is the graphic or PDF of the schematic in step 2. The piezo is just a standard disc type. The motor is a cheap 3V one (although I found this started to stick after a while so it's been replaced with a solenoid). The FET is any logic-level switching N channel enhancement MOSFET.
All the Picaxe stuff is explained in step 5.
Thanks for the nice words.
There's 4 bytes of program space left so no room for more features without sacrificing existing ones. You could very easily replace either the random knocking or the "spooky tune" with a "Two Bits" response for 5 knocks by changing just a couple of lines of code.
Have a look back through the other comments for how some others have implemented this idea.
The PicAxe is one of the easiest microcontrollers to get into. It's not as fast as the AVR or Arduino gang, but it's got an excellent programming environment and great support from the main forum. I'm using the simplest one here but the range goes up to a 40 pin one which runs at 64MHz.
The box is 23/8 x 21/4 x 37/8 (HxWxL) outside dimensions.
Take 1/2" off each for internal.
Go bigger by all means, but smaller would be tricky.
Mine came from a UK store called Hobbycraft (and they don't stock them anymore), but I'm sure you can find similar in the US.
My friend is helping me build this but neither of us can program in basic. What do we do now? Is there a way around it?
Thanks,
Ted
I gave him your reply and he says that he does not have a basic program to do the programming. He says that when he plugs the cable in he will need a program like basic. He does not understand and I am totally illiterate. What do I tell him... S O R R Y for being so stupid.
It sounds like he's missing the Programming Editor - He can download it HERE. This will allow him to transfer the program to the device via the programming cable.
Any idea about how to adapt this to an picaxe 18m2 chip as it has more memory to add more songs to different knocks etc and pins can be set to in/out. I know how to change knock amounts and tunes, but I do not know how to change the first part to get it working. Ive been experimenting on a breadboard with no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
I have set up:
pin 1 = pin 14
Pin 2 = pin 3
pin 3 = pin 10
Pin 5 = Pin 6
Pin 7 = Pin 2
Pin 9 = Pin 5
MadButler
Sooo . . . I haven't tested this but if you use the top 3 RHS pins on the chip, I think this would work :-
#picaxe 18m2 'Put at the top - Tells the prog. edit. which chip we're using
symbol mic = pinc.1 'Chip pin 18 - Microphone input (can also be output)
symbol knock = c.0 'Chip pin 17 - Knock motor output
symbol led = c.7 'Chip pin 16 - Indicator LED for testing
(further down)
input c.1 'Define mic as input to detect knocks
by the way your instructables are really awsome, hope to see more cool things to do with the picaxe chips. i will be having a go at the tic tac instructable once i hunt down a slide resistor
Patrick
Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u81YIyu9GEE
Pictures
http://www.flickr.com/photos/55301458@N03/
A like the solid thump and really good vibration you've got with yours.
Are you using a motor or a solenoid for the knocker?
(And ta for the mention at the end #;¬)