Introduction: Platform Bed With Drawers

Picture of Platform Bed With Drawers

   The flush paneled sides and lack of drawer pull hardware give this bed a sleek modern look. A tremendous amount of useful storage space is obtained by adding the drawers underneath the bed. I built this bed for my teenage daughter. I bought her a new memory foam mattress that requires a solid foundation. I incorporated 6 drawers into the bed for 2 reasons. First, to make use of the space under the bed for storage. Secondly, to prohibit her from stuffing tons of stuff under the bed when she is "cleaning" her room. I did not have any plans , or sketches to work off of. This was a "design as you go"  project, which is typical for me. Sometimes its easier to visualize how a project will be put together once I get started. That being said, Im sure there are better ways to build this project, using less wood. I tend to "over engineer" things, but hey, I've never had something that I've built have a failure due to weak structure....Brawn is sometimes better than brain, or at least equal.

Step 1: Getting Started , Building Base Frame

Picture of Getting Started , Building Base Frame

    Let me first say that the purpose of this Instructable is to show the steps I took in building this bed .It will show the construction methods and tools I used. Im not including exact dimensions of all of the individual components. All of the measurements can be adjusted to meet ones individual needs, ie. bed height, width and number of drawers etc. 

     Bed construction begins with building of the base. I designed this bed to be more of a modern style, with flush surfaces and straight lines. I wanted the main body of the bed to be sitting on a smaller base to allow the side and end edges to overhang.  I built this bed for a Queen size mattress which has dimensions of 60" wide by 80" in length. I choose to have a 5" overhang on the sides and end of bed. To achieve this, I built the frame 75" long by 50" wide. I used 2" x 4" 's laid on edge which resulted in a base that is  3-1/2" tall . Once I had the frame built, I placed it up on my work table. I also had to use my table saw to support one end of the base frame. I leveled and squared the frame on the table using wood shims where needed.  Then I screwed it down to my work surface to keep it in place during construction. No, I didn't screw it down to my tablesaw, I used glue........ok ..clamps.

Step 2: Bed Frame Construction

Picture of Bed Frame Construction

       I built the Bed frame in two halves. This allows the bed to be disassembled for easier transporting. I constructed them out of 2 x 4 lumber and 3/4" plywood, thus making the finished bed very solid and quite heavy. I choose to have two large drawers at the foot of the bed and two smaller drawers on each side of the bed. 
       I started by laying out and cutting the top rails of the frame out of  2 x 4's. The piece towards the inside of the bed is cut shorter and has a half-lap joint cut out of its end. The half-lap is to accept a plywood panel that will continue the remaining length of the bed. The plywood is used to mount the inner drawer slide for the end drawers. To make the half-lap joint, I set the blade depth on my circular saw to 3/4". I then made a series of cross cuts on the board spaced about 1/8" apart. I then used a hammer and chisel to remove the remaining wood and smooth the surface of the joint. It would have been easier to use one continuous piece of plywood the length of the bed, instead of the 2 x 4's, but I didn't want to purchase any more wood than I had too. A lot of the wood I had left over from previous projects.
      Next I cut the plywood panels to size. I used my table saw to rip the plywood to size. Since I'm working alone, I set up my work tables to help support the plywood sheets as I run them through the saw. I cut one floor piece 30" ( half the total bed width) by 25", which is the depth of the end drawers. I cut three vertical pieces 14" high by 28 1/2" for side drawer dividers and  one piece 14' by 25" for the center end wall piece.  
     First I glued and screwed the end wall piece to the floor piece. Then I cut notches out of the side wall pieces to accept the 2x4 top rails. I fastened a  side wall / drawer divider to the floor piece. Once secured, I positioned the floor section on the base frame and screwed it in place temporarily with two screws. The inside top rail went on next, I glued and screwed the half-lap joint to the corresponding plywood panel. I supported the opposite end of the top rail with a chunk of 2x4 . Then I installed a 2x4 cross member in place adjacent to the plywood sidewall . I used screws to fasten the cross member to the sidewall as well as the top rails. I then positioned the outer top rail and fastened it to the cross member.  I attached a 2x4 cross member to the rails at the head end of the bed. Instead of a plywood panel at the head of the bed, I used a 2x4 frame secured with scrap pieces of plywood for gussets. I drilled pilot holes in the ends of the top rails where the cross members are fastened to prevent the boards from splitting. I also attached a 2-1/2" strip of plywood to the side edge of the plywood floor piece. This piece provides a surface for the lower edge of the finished panel to be fastened to.
     The next thing I did was install a plywood floor piece running the remaining length of the bed frame, I used 3/4" plywood ripped to   12" wide. I really just need the plywood along the outer edges of the bed to support the lower edges of the drawer dividers. I fastened a scrap of plywood  to the underside of the floor piece to help secure it to the floor section already in place. Then I installed the remaining 2x4 cross members between the top rails . I positioned them adjacent to the locations of the drawer divider panels. Next I installed the drawer dividers, which also needed to have notches cut out to accept the outer top rails. I screwed the panels to the cross members and also through the floor panel. I spaced the drawer dividers to allow room for two, 20" wide drawers. About 13" of space is remaining at the head of the bed to allow room for a night stand. I plan on building a head board next , that will be 6"-8" deep, which will result in about 20" of night stand space. 
    This side of the bed is done for now. Repeat the process and build the opposite half of the bed frame. 

Step 3: Building Drawers

Picture of Building Drawers

    I built very basic drawers for this project using butt joints instead of dovetail joints. The width of the drawer box should be 1" less than the width of the opening to allow for drawer slide clearance. I had a 20" drawer opening so I built my drawer boxes 19" wide by 23 7/8" deep. I started by ripping 1/2" plywood into strips 8" wide. Then I cut the pieces to length with the miter saw. I used a block of wood , screwed to my bench top, as a cutting stop to assure all of the pieces were exactly the same length. It only takes a second to set up and it takes all of the measuring and guess work out of it. I made the front and rear drawer pieces fit inside the side pieces. I cut a 3/16" deep slot along the bottom inside edge of the drawer pieces. It is 5/8" in from the edge. Then I moved the table saw fence just a little, about half of a saw blade thickness, and ran the pieces again. The end result was a groove just over  3/16" wide, just the right size to accept the luan bottom panels. The last step is to raise the blade of the saw and run ONLY the drawer back pieces, to rip off the previously grooved section. This is done to allow the drawer bottom panel to overlap the back piece and be fastened. I used the table saw to cut drawer bottom panels out of 1/4" luan plywood , taking care to cut them as perfectly square as I could. The dimension of the bottom panel should be 3/8" larger on the sides and 5/8" larger in length. 
     Before assembling the drawers I finish sanded all off the sides of the pieces that would be inside the drawer once assembled.  Its much easier to do it before hand than to try and do it after the drawer is assembled. I start drawer assembly by fastening one of the drawer sides to the drawer front. I used glue and an pneumatic nailer with 1 1/4" finish nails. I sparingly applied glue to the slots in the drawer pieces and slid the bottom panel in place. I installed the other side piece the same way. The back drawer piece goes in next. I used a carpenters square to align the drawer frame, then fastened the luan in place, nailing it into the bottom edge of theback drawer panel.

Step 4: Installing Drawer Slides

Picture of Installing Drawer Slides

   I bought some inexpensive drawer slides for $7 , that are 22" long.  They are 3/4 extension drawer slides,  which means the drawer will only open about 15-1/2". Each pair of drawer slides comes with two pieces, one to be mounted on the drawer and one to fasten to the drawer divider on the bed frame. First I installed the drawer portion of the slides using the screws provided with the slides. I kept the front edge of the slide 1/16" back from the front edge of the drawer. Next I installed the piece of the drawer slide that attaches to the drawer divider panel. I also kept the front edge of the drawer slide 1/16" back from the front edge of the divider panel. The bottom of the slides sits on the bottom of the divider panel at the front of slide. I ripped a piece of wood to 1/4" in thickness to use as a shim to hold the drawer slides level while they are screwed in place. After installing the slides , I numbered each drawer and its mating location on the bed.

Step 5: Building and Installing Drawer Fronts and Finish Surfaces

Picture of Building and Installing Drawer Fronts and Finish Surfaces

    I chose to use 3/4" Maple veneered plywood for the finish surfaces of the bed. I covered the exposed end grain of the plywood with a iron-on Birch veneer. Application of the veneer is fairly easy. It has a heat activated glue on the under side of it. I use an old house hold iron to apply the veneer. I heat up about 10" of veneer at a time, which only requires about 3 seconds of ironing, then I use a small block of wood to press the veneer down tightly. If the veneer needs to be re-positioned, simply reheat the area and adjust as desired. The veneer is slightly wider than 3/4", so there is some material left over hanging the edge of the plywood once it is applied. This left over veneer can be trimmed carefully with a knife, but I find it easier to just sand the excess of with an orbital sander. I also fastened all of the beds finished panels to the bed frame from the inside, so there would be no visible fasteners and no nail holes to fill. 
    I ripped the plywood to a width of 14-1/2" on the table saw.  I then cut the pieces to length. I clamped a straight edge to the plywood to use as a cutting guide.  I used a carpenters square to align the straight edge and assure a perfectly square cut. I used a circular saw to make the cuts.  The first piece I cut was the side panel at the foot of the bed. I cut it long enough to extend past the foot of the bed by 3/4". This is to cover the side edge of the drawer front, on the drawer at the foot of the bed. Next I applied the veneer to the edges. I temporarily clamped the board into position on the bed frame. I allowed the top edge of the panel to stick up 1-1/2" above the top surface of the bed frame to conceal the bottom of the mattress when completed. When I was satisfied with its position, I fastened the panel in place by screwing it to the bed frame from the inside. The next piece I cut was for the 2 side drawers. I cut it in one, 40" piece, the length of both drawers combined. Then I ripped a 4" strip from the drawer piece, 40" long, to be installed along the top edge of the bed frame. I followed the same process of veneering, aligning, clamping and fastening in place. The piece of plywood remaining after the rip was cut in half to form the 2 side drawer front panels.  With the drawer boxes installed in place in the drawer slides, I positioned the drawer fronts in place. the drawer front panels extend about 5/8" below the bottom surface of the bed frame to allow a spot to open the drawer with out the use of drawer pull hardware. I used 1/8" thick spacer sticks, placed between the top and side edges of the drawer front panel, to maintain even gap spacing . I will also mention that I pre-drilled the holes in the bed frame where the panel fastening screws were installed. This lessens the chance of the panels shifting while the screws are being driven. I continued applying the finish panels in this fashion on the other 2 sides of the bed.

Step 6: Final Adjustments and Finishing

Picture of Final Adjustments and Finishing

    After installing all of the finish panels, some adjustment of the drawer slides was necessary. A couple of the drawer fronts did not sit flush along the top edge. They protruded out by nearly 1/8.  To rectify this situation, I had to adjust the drawer slides on the inside of the bed frame . Lowering the rear, or inner most end of the slides, allowed the drawer fronts to tip inwards slightly and sit flush.
   No matter how hard I tried,  I still ended up having a few minor blemishes that needed filler. I used Dap brand plastic wood filler, mixed with a little of the stain I will be using, to fill the imperfections. Once the filler dried, I sanded the entire exterior of the bed with 220 grit sandpaper to prepare the surface for finishing. 
   I used a Ebony stain on the exterior of the bed. It produced a nice deep color. I applied one coat of stain with a foam brush , then wiped it back off immediately.  After waiting 24 hours for the stain to dry , I applied 3 coats of water based polyurethane with a foam brush as well.  I waited at least 2 hours before sanding with 300 grit sandpaper between coats.

   There are 2 steps that I omitted from this instructable because I forgot to take pictures. I ripped  pieces of 1/4" Oak plywood, 3-1/2" wide, to cover the sides of the 2x4 base frame. I painted the pieces black. I also cut 2 pieces of 3/8" plywood to be fastened to the top surface of the bed frame to support the mattress.

Step 7: Conclusion

Picture of Conclusion

     I am satisfied with the  outcome of this bed project. I had a lot of the materials already, left over from previous projects. I only had to spend about $95 for the drawer slides and a couple of sheets of plywood that I didn't already have. My daughter loves the look of her new bed and also the newly gained, and needed, storage space. Now we'll see how much junk she can cram into those drawers when it comes time to clean her room. My next project will be to construct a matching head board unit with more storage space designed into it. Thank you for checking out my Instructable and I look forward to reading your questions and comments.

Step 8: Bonus Step- Things That Went Wrong

Picture of Bonus Step- Things That Went Wrong

    As I stated in the beginning, this project was designed as I went. Like most projects, even the most well thought out ones, problems arose. What kind of instructable author would I be if I did not include my screw ups so that we can all learn from my mistakes. The first problem that arose was when I tried to install the drawer boxes after the slides were installed. Then boxes were too tall to allow them to be tipped into position while inserting them into the drawer slides. To fix this, I removed the drawer slides from the drawers and them ran the boxes through the table saw, ripping 1/2" off of the top edge of the drawer boxes. 
    My next issue occurred when I realized that I may have built the bed frame too narrow. I had made it exactly 60" wide. I measured a bed that I made a few years back and discovered that It was 61" wide , to accommodate the thickness of bedding.  I figured this out before I had cut any of the finished panels. To solve this problem, I added 2x4 blocks between the 2 halves of the bed to gain the extra width. Then it came time to put the new mattress on the bed. I removed the mattress from its packaging and was disappointed to learn that the mattress was actually made undersized, that's right, it is only 58" wide.  After muttering a few choice words, I came up with a solution, which I have not put into action yet. I am going to remove the 2x4 spacers from between the frame rails, simply enough right? Wrong! I also have to trim the width of both drawer fronts and upper trim pieces. This should not be too much of a problem if done carefully. Since all of the drawer fronts and finish panels are screwed on from the inside of the bed frame, they can easily be removed to be trimmed to length. I will, however, have to carefully apply a new piece of edge veneer to the freshly cut ends of the drawer fronts.
    Next came the finishing process. I was happy to see that the wood filler/stain mixture worked well for hiding blemishes and was hardly noticeable when completed. I have had bad luck in the past with fillers that claimed to be stainable, but just didn't work out. So my next problem came while applying stain. Certain areas of the bed , where I had to do more extensive sanding, did not absorb the stain as well as the other, less sanded areas. This left me with inconsistent color. I thought I could live with it and decided to continue with the finishing process. After the first coat of polyurethane, I changed my mind and decided to try and fix the problem. I was able to sand off almost all of the stain and re-apply the stain for a much more even color. I am very glad I took the extra effort to rectify this situation. I am now left with a quality piece of furniture that will last for years to come..


MattyGeeStyle (author)2017-08-28

VertDude, this is by far the most well put together intractable that I've seen on this site. You do very fine work and you did a superb job at demonstrating each step clearly with helpful information. Cheers.

Katiem_83 (author)2017-05-19

Hello, in step 2 you indicated it would've been easier to just do one piece of plywood the full length of the bed. The plywood pieces seem to be 14" high but what would be the length of those? (The full length of the bed)

Swansong (author)2017-04-12

If we need to replace ours then I definitely want to make one like this! I love all the extra storage.

DreamC2 (author)2017-02-10

You did very good work. I have a plan to make this platform bed with drawers as my first practice, there are a lot of wood around me here. I really really curious to make it soon. Keep sharing your great ideas...!

JodyH31 (author)2016-11-29

You have a serious chip on your shoulder. You should really consider seeking professional help on improving your outlook on life and your attitude towards others. A person who uploads plans/ideas does it to help others. They aren't getting compensated. They don't control the site or how it's run. They are simply passing on information that others might find useful. If you are too cheap to have a premium account (nothing wrong with that. I don't have one) then you can write down, copy/paste, screenshot, onenote/evernote clip or whatever to get the information off of the site. The fact that you would insult a person put in the time to help others because you have a "the world owes me" complex is ridiculous.

VertDude (author)JodyH312016-11-29

Hi JodyH31, thanks for sticking up for me towards that previous commenter. Some people have nothing better to do than spread negativity to others...

JodyH31 (author)2016-11-29

This is beautiful. I will be doing something similar to this for my king size bed. Your plans are a great inspiration. Keep up the good work!

VertDude (author)2016-11-28

Jeez Golfer2016! I'm not even aware of a PDF in the first place. Anyone can view the entire instructable on the site. So use your brain and take screen shots of the pages if you want to save them , instead of labeling me a "Scumbag" for taking several hours of my life to document my build for the benefit of others.

BeccaM13 (author)2016-05-14

This is super awesome! I'm looking for more ways to utilize every space while keeping it my style. I have an awkward question does it hold up when intimacy occurs....if you know what I mean lol

VertDude (author)BeccaM132016-11-28

Lol, The bed is very sturdy, it's my daughters bed so there hasn't been , or better not have been, any intimacy happening. There has been multiple kids (11 yr olds) jumping around on the bed with no structural problems.

CarlosC284 (author)BeccaM132016-07-31

essa cama muito confortavel adoraria de fazer com voce

Matt Casdorph (author)BeccaM132016-07-12

lol.. I would say with the materials used in his build when put together should have no problem supporting 2 people "when intimacy occurs", however any more than two people (you naughty people out there) it may or may not.

emilyEB15 (author)2016-05-06

How much would I have to pay you to make me one of these with a second layer of drawers?

VertDude (author)emilyEB152016-05-06

Hi Emily, thanks for the interest. I'll have to do some calculating to figure out a price..The bigger issue is shipping the bed, unless you live within driving distance(1 hr north of Detroit Michigan)..I also built a nice headboard with storage but have yet to post a picture.

PersyJack (author)2016-04-23

how do you open drawers?

nerolabs made it! (author)2015-03-29

So... thank you so much for the inspiration for this bed! This all started with my girlfriend and I passing by a furniture store telling me how much she loved storage beds. I said: I always wanted to make one! So, this set us off on our adventure... it was at LEAST three-four solid weekends of work, about 7 trips to the lumber yard and hardware store, and a lot of learning.

Building the inside of the frame was pretty easy. Lots of wood (smile) and lots of measuring, but it came together in about 3-4 weekend days. Little did I know we were less than halfway done.

Staining, putting on the clear was a LOT of work. The oak strip iron on veneer took a lot of time, and we added a headboard to the mix. The first headboard was solid 3/4 oak, but it had an uneven finish (some finishing process at the manufacturer went wrong), so we started over and had the idea to do six pieces, also spaced 1/8th inch to carry the them of the spacing of the drawers.

Yes, the drawers were a pain. Yes, some of them don't operate as smooth as the others. I still have some adjustments to make, and minor blemishes to deal with, but we decided we are going to let the bed settle for a month and then start a finish pass.

Enjoy the pictures. And thank you SO much for the incredible inspiration!

Andrew & Cristina

VertDude (author)nerolabs2016-02-09

Wow! Great job one the bed! I'm glad my build inspired you. I too built a head board/storage cabinet, I just haven't gotten around to taking pictures of it yet,lol

JessicaF37 (author)nerolabs2016-02-08

How much did it cost you to make?

nerolabs (author)JessicaF372016-02-08

Total cost, I think was around $1,200 for materials, stain / varnish, screws / drawer pulls, etc. Unlike the author, I didn't have a lot of spare material lying around, so it was all new wood.

JamesJ30 made it! (author)2015-08-30

Well, i don't quite think my bed is as pretty as yours. but, for someone who started this with just a battery powered skillsaw.. i think i did daRn good. i had to buy a table saw for the finish work. I didn't frame it out just as Vera did. i wanted to cut down on weight, i did build it in two halves. I used 1/2 inch birch plywood for the finish. instead of doing the 3 1/2 in base, i laid them down to get a 1 1/2 inch floating frame. the drawers are 2 foot, by 2 foot, and 14 inches deep. ( i can put almost all my cloths in one drawer!) i actually added a smaller drawer at the headboard end of the bed for little things, books, etc. its 22 inches off the floor, the mattress makes it closer to 30 inches, which is a great height. for some reason, i couldn't add more than 4 photos.. i'll add more in a different post. Thanks for the idea Vera! I love it.

nerolabs (author)JamesJ302016-02-08

Wow this one looks great! Good job!!

sjmattox (author)JamesJ302015-10-10

James, do you have plans for the bed you made? While I love VertDude's design, I like the idea of it being lighter.

JamesJ30 (author)sjmattox2015-10-15

i don't have "plans" per say.... but i can pretty much tell you what i did. lengths and whatnot. I've actually done a lot more to it since these pics. I'll get on the pc and type up what i've done.

JamesJ30 (author)JamesJ302015-08-30

Vertdude, not Vera, :x

shags1 (author)2015-08-24

This bed looks every bit as good as the bed I bought from World Market. But based on your material list (for those of you looking for that, it's in the comments section), you accomplished this for far less money than I spent.

Excellent job! Well done, sir!

hjgerber made it! (author)2015-07-23

Thank you, VertDude.

This is my version. Made it about 2 years ago and never uploaded any pictures.

I'm busy with V2.0 for a mate's wedding present. Will add the SketchUp model when it's done.

I will also electrify V2.0 - add plug points and lights.

hjgerber (author)hjgerber2015-07-28

V2.0 - I still have to add the power outlets on the sides - I'll first find the outlet I want (specifically want something that will pop-out/hide) and then change the design.

Note: Timber sizes are relatively standard (in SA), but check/tweak the dimensions to your own standards.

tdolch (author)2013-03-11

I really liked this design so my dad and I were going to try to make one just like it. We were wondering if you have a material list so we know about how much wood we need to buy. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

VertDude (author)tdolch2013-03-11

Thanks tdolch...Heres a quick list of materials I used, although I had a lot of the wood pieces left over from various projects. Actually a lot of the internal plywood came from the dumpster at Gander Mountain. they were throwing out an old fishing rod display cabinet. I scored quite a bit of Oak plywood.

10- 2 x 4 x 8 ft long
1-sheet 3/4 inch finish grade plywood (I used Maple) for the exterior of bed and drawers
2- sheets 3/4" CDX plywood (exterior sheeting grade is fine)
2- sheets 3/8" CDX Plywood ( top layer, under mattress)
1- sheet 1/2" finish grade plywood, at least 5-plys ( for drawer boxes)
1- sheet 1/4" Luan plywood, also called underlayment (drawer bottoms)
6- pairs of 22" long , medium duty drawer slides
1 lb of 3-1/2 " deck screws
1 lb 1-5/8" drywall screws
hand full of 2" drywall/deck screws. (to fasten on exterior panels)
Finishing products ie. stain, varnish, paint or what ever...

JamesJ30 (author)VertDude2015-07-23

I don't know if you're still watching posts on here, But i'm fixing to start making this, probably won't be able to use the expensive wood, but i'm saving up for it. the only thing i don't understand what you did was with the base, did you screw this to the bottom? i was thinking about just doing a tongue and groove and let it sit on it. without screwing into it. what do you think?

VertDude (author)VertDude2013-03-11

To avoid confusion, the above list contains the amounts of lumber needed to complete the project. I did not have to purchase all of this because of leftovers I already had :)

UdyRegan (author)2015-01-05

That dark stain on the platform s just gorgeous! What shade is it! Now that is a storage bed that I wouldn't mind having in my house.

JamesJ30 (author)UdyRegan2015-07-23

The picture show's it as Kona. coffee like color.

czachol.machol made it! (author)2015-06-29

Thanks for this very inspiring instructable! Just what we needed, considering our slightly cramped living space. I modified the structure a little, installing 4 drawers instead of 6 and running the support planks all across the width of the frame for improved stability (I hope ;). Overally, it really is a chunky build, weights a ton!

Took me whole month to construct, so my original optimistic estimates of 1,5 weeks were far detached from reality, hehe. There is still the headpiece left, which I will install some day in the future. The lumberyard where I purchsed the timber for the structure had a nice mahogany veneered (at least they said it was mahogany) plywood for sale, so I went for it. The result's not bad, I guess.


BartholomewH (author)2015-06-14

I love would to assemble one of these! thank you

lindag2 (author)2015-04-15

This is great! I need this in my guest room!

Grayhawk1982 (author)2014-12-28

Nice work. Its a good looking bed.

FernandaH (author)2014-10-12

Hi VertDude.

I am in South Africa and would like to attempt this build but the use of inches is throwing me out a bit. Do you have a drawing of this so that I can work out the size in Metric values?

talksthetalk (author)2014-07-06

Great design, plan and explanation. Just one question - in step 5 you say you ripped the plywood to 14 1/2" for the finish panels. If the panels are going to project 1.5" above the main frame, and 5/8" below, shouldn't the finish panels be 16 7/8"? Thanks!

CairoEvans (author)2014-05-20

Did you put anything on top of the 2x4 beams beneath the mattress? Plywood top or something? Or did you just put the mattress directly over? Looks great! Planning on making a version of this in the upcoming months.

CIDHH6 (author)2014-04-04

I'm actually working on this as well. We're still in the design phase, but we'll be moving all of the drawers to the sides and adding a short headboard and removable nightstands. Possibly an electrical outlet to compensate for one this will probably be blocking. Haven't decided if we have the time to DIY or pay a carpenter. We'll definitely update with a ton of photos and details when we get it finished.

WPospick made it! (author)2014-03-24

Built it over the summer for me to use for my senior year of college/post grad. Added a headboard which my father and I messed up on (but it ended up being better that way. Ended up putting all the drawers on the side, with the headboard I was able to fit 4 very large drawers (you can stack 4 stacks of folded clothes in each drawer without messing up the folding). Having the drawers all on the side was nice because the front was one solid piece of wood, really made it look good. Whole thing ended up costing somewhere between $450-$550. The pottery barn equivalent (which doesn't have as much storage) costs almost $2000

Suggestions for future builders

- Measure at least 3 times before cutting, EVERYTHING needs to be cut to precision. Once you're using the nicer wood for the paneling, you'll thank me, not just for the sharp look, but if you mess up a cut, there's a good chance you'll have to go get more wood, and that gets expensive.

- Cut all the drawers at the same time. Even a 16th of an inch difference between each drawer can mess it up

- Keep track of the outside paneling and keep it in order, Nearly made the drawers not match in grain

- If you have the know-how/programs, design it in autocad first. It may seem like a waste of time to some, but it was helpful to have somewhere to go for precise measurements and somewhere to alter the design (see 4 drawers on each side and a headboard)

- Order the slides online, they're cheaper than in the store

- Precision is even more important when putting in the slides, possibly use a small piece of wood to rest the slider on when marking the holes for drilling, and then measure again. We didn't use the amount of precision we should have (or its just the cheap sliders and dust), but the drawers occasionally get stuck. Just push em back in then pull em out.

- Make sure the room you're putting the bed in has enough space to pull out the drawer and remove it. I wasn't able to measure the room before building, but the bed BARELY fits with the drawers

- If you're building it with someone else, which I highly recommend as accidents happen, you will get on each others nerves, take breaks to avoid carelessness

- Dont put the headboard up to a recessed window, you will manage to have something fall back there and even if you're 6'4" with long arms, you won't be able to get it until you move the bed.

- And MOST IMPORTANTLY, sand the corners round if you don't wanna hurt your shins/knees when you're stumbling in the dark.

Now onto the headboard

We built the headboard to have a 15 degree slope, allowing one to sit upright on it without feeling uncomfortable. There are 2 shelves on each side, 18 inches deep I think. There is a flat part at the top about 5 inches wide or so, a perfect place to put a drink.

However, on the main part of the backboard, you have to cut at an angle on the tablesaw, and ours didn't measure far enough, so we had to cut it in half to cut the angles. Unfortunately (and I blame my father for this since I recall telling him to measure again because what he was doing just didn't make sense), We didn't cut the headboard short enough, so there is a cusp at the top. However, I would recommend adding this cusp if you use this design as it A) prevents a drink from falling over easily and B) if there are any water stains on the wood, it hides those pretty well.

lucek (author)WPospick2014-03-24

Good addendum to the Ible. One thing I will note. If you don't have Autocad (unless you are a professional I don't know why you'd dump the thousands of dollars on it or even the ~$140 for the student version) There are plenty of survicable and down right good alternatives for simple 2D cad. Librecad is to Autocad as Libreoffice or oropenoffice is to M$ office. I'd like to tell you that it's really easy to learn or the like but given I've got a degree in using CAD I'm not that much of an every man.

dgriggs3 (author)2014-01-01

i know this was 9 months ago but i just found this site and this is the first thing i gravitated to. i had a couple of questions though, first when you say sheet ie; "2- sheets 3/4" cdx plywood" is that the 4 foot sheet or the 8 foot sheet? and how long approximately did it take for you to build this? im really excited to get started, this thing is amazing. thanks for sharing.

VertDude (author)dgriggs32014-02-18

Sorry for the late reply dgriggs3, when I repfer to sheets of plywood, I am refering to 4' x8' lond sheets. This project took me about 2 1/2 weeks to complete, working in the evenings ..Good luck with your build

LaurenFranz (author)2014-01-31

Do you deliver :)

GreenMeUpScotty (author)2013-03-07

Great Use of Materials and who doesn't need more storage space!

hint- I built my first platform bed (in the garage) with drawers 15 yrs ago. After it was 75% built I realized that there was no way of moving it into the home-it was too big to move down a narrow hallway and into a room.

VertDude (author)GreenMeUpScotty2013-03-07

Thanks Scotty.... Luckily I thought about moving the bed a head of time, so I built it in 2 pieces. well, 3 pieces counting the base. it was tricky building it in my narrow workshop though...

GreenMeUpScotty (author)VertDude2013-10-28

You were smarter than I was! Good Stuff +VertDude!

VertDude (author)GreenMeUpScotty2013-11-10


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Bio: Im just a guy who likes to ride skateboards and enjoys building things that I can use....
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