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Summer's over and the weather is crisping up, but it's not too late to spend some time lazing on the deck in the sun. These chairs are a modern take on the rustic Adirondack chair, stripped down to a simple wooden wedge with angled back and cantilevered arms. Low to the ground and laid-back, it's perfect for cabin deck or poolside patio. The wedge base is old-growth Douglas Fir, oiled to bring out the grain and then coated with outdoor-grade polyurethane. All of the slats are various shop scraps of flooring and other off-cuts, bought in bulk bundles from the ReBuilding Exchange here in Chicago.

The chairs were made to break down flat, though I screwed them together for final assembly. You could easily use through-bolts instead of screws to make them permanently de-mountable for storage or moving. This could be built with just a circular saw and a drill, but a table saw and chop saw make things a lot easier.

You will need these materials:

1 8' 2" x 12" (per chair)
1 8' 2" x 4"
Approx. 40 linear feet of assorted 3/4" material
8 2" x 3/8" hex-head bolts or a handful of galvanized 1-1/2" screws
Galvanized (or, better, stainless steel) 1" and 2" screws
Wood glue 
Outdoor-grade finish of your choice

You will need these tools:

Chop saw
Table saw
Circular saw
Orbital sander
Drill/driver
Clamps
Chisel
Hand plane
Tape measure
Square
Pencil
Paintbrush
Rags

Step 1: Base Assembly

I made my base by laminating together a pair of 2" x 8"s; you can eliminate this problem by using a regular 2" x 12". That said, lamination is a great way to make use of smaller pieces of scrap. 

Rip a straight edge on either side of your boards on the table saw. Go ahead and glue up the whole 8' lengths of wood; you'll cut them to length later. Generously coat with glue (I use a mixture of wood glue and polyurethane glue like Gorilla for maximum strength) and clamp together, cleaning up squeeze-out with a damp rag and putty knife. Once the glue has cured, run through a thickness planer or use a hand planer to clean up the seam.

Run a rabbet on one of the long edges of your newly laminated piece (or 2" x 12", as the cse may be) that is 3/4" x 3/4". You can use a table saw for this, or set your circular saw shallow and use an edge guide to make a straight cut.

While you have your saw settings, go ahead and run the same rabbet on your 2" x 4", for the back supports.

Cut the rabbeted 2" x 12" down into two 36" pieces on a chop saw.

To make the wedge shape, clamp the 36" blank to the edge of a table. Strike a line on the non-rabbeted edge that tapers from a full 11"-12" on the one end to 4-1/2" on the other. Cut that line witha  circular saw. Your rabbets eventually have to face one another, so make sure your tapered cuts are mirror images of one another across the two pieces.

To increase the long-term durability of the bases, which are made of soft wood, I put hardwood runners made from old oak flooring on the bottoms. Cut strips of hardwood (oak, walnut, maple, etc.) to 1-1/2" wide, then glue and screw them to the bottom of the wedges, planing the seams smooth.

Nice work!
In general, you never run used lumber through a planer as any old screw or nail will damage the expensive blades.
I think it's one of the best ways to recycle used lumber. All you need is a wand style metal detector to find the nails, screws, staples, bb shot, etc. You can get one from any major woodworking source.
Love the design. You should post some drawings, they would be most helpful!
Like it! now i know what to do with my kids old bunk bed !
Great instructable, thank you very much!
It looks nice, solid and comfortable. Good work!
What an excellent maker supply the ReBuilding Exchange is! You did an excellent job with this post, and your imagery is killer. Great work!

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Bio: Furniture hacker. Author of Guerilla Furniture Design, out now. Find me on Twitter and Instagram @objectguerilla.
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