There's a lot of wood out in the world free for the taking -- in dumpsters, back alleys, vacant lots, abandoned buildings, recycling yards, and architectural salvage centers.  Most wood, if free from rot, is just as strong, durable, and good to use as new wood, once you sand off the weathering. This table was made from all salvaged wood -- both dimensional lumber and plywood, mostly taken from decaying buildings in and around Hale County, Alabama.  It was commissioned by the good folks at PieLab (www.pielab.org), an initiative of Project M (www.projectmlab.com).  PieLab is a pie shop, design center, teaching resource, and business incubator in Greensboro, Alabama.

There are many methods for laminating wood -- this project focuses on a down-and-dirty method for those of us who do not own a lot of pipe clamps and other heavy duty hardware for wrestling with wild wood.  It is about ten feet long by thirty inches wide, sitting about thirty inches off the ground.  If you can salvage the wood, the other materials aren't too expensive: five threaded rods, about four bucks each; nuts, washers, and screws; a gallon or so of wood glue; sandpaper; and polyurethane.  All told, it was less than one hundred dollars.

As far as tools, you'll need a table saw, a circular saw, a power drill/impact driver, hand plane, mallet, some drill bits, and a belt sander.

This isn't the quickest project in the world, but with a little help from my friends, it only took a few weekends.

While I did the design, I am indebted to the following individuals who did most of the labor:

Ryan LeCluyse  (thanks also for many of the photos throughout, includ. the first three)
Dan Gavin
Breanne Kostyk
Megan Deal
Nick Wickersham
Rosie Dixon
Nick Kirkpatrick

Step 1: Trestles

The basic design for this table is a trestle scheme: using two parallel load-bearing structures with slanted legs to support the top.   To lay out the trestles, and to get the feet of the legs to hit the floor evenly so the whole thing sits level, lay out a baseline (a big piece of wood or a straight line in the pavement will do), and a second piece of wood at ninety degrees to the baseline.

Measure up from the baseline 30-32 inches.  This will be the top of the table.  Pull a straight line across at that measurement -- either in chalk or with a piece of wood -- that is parallel to the baseline.  The dimensions of your table may vary, but I measured about two feet in from each end of the second line, representing the top of the table.  

Now that you have this geometric layout, pick some wood for the legs.  I went with 2" x 6" cedar scraps we dug out of the pile.  I measured a rough length for them, four feet or so, then ran a line from opposite corner to opposite corner.  Using a circular saw and a a steady hand, cut the legs, each essentially a long, sharp triangle.  You'll need eight in all.

Lay the legs with the fat end on two-foot mark on the line representing the top of the table, and pull the other end so that it hits the baseline.  What you want is the feet to be in line with the end of the table top, which will give a nice visual rake to the legs while providing maximum stability.  Scribe lines on the legs and use the circular saw to cut them flush.  You can scribe just one and use that as a master to trace onto all the others.

We used eight foot yellow pine 2" x 8"s for the trestles themselves.  Cut a taper into each end as shown in the photos, running from about 2" down to where the legs hit.  Screw and glue the legs onto the trestles in opposing pairs.  Use at least four screws with enough length to go through the trestle and into the other leg for maximum strength.
So here's my version - an 8 ft dining room table. Production photos can be found here: http://story-problems.blogspot.com/2010/04/i-made-table.html<br /> <br />
Here's my coffee table version. Not quite done applying polyurethane. Thanks for the idea.<br />
I loved your instructable so much I made a coffee table! Not finished yet. Used all the scrap wood I could find! South Africa is scant with wood.<br /> <br /> Thanks Again!<br />
<p>beautiful furniture! </p>
<p>Here is mine. I would say to for sure piece out your table and mark the lines for your rods before you start gluing. If you have access to a table planer I would run the boards through first to straighten and square them up. I had some warped boards that ended up needing wood putty. I think it could have been avoided if I had planed the boards first.</p>
That turned out gorgeous!
<p>Dope furniture assembly man! I love when people take unused parts and put those to use! Beautiful looking piece of furniture you've assembled! Faved!</p>
<p>Nicely done.. Awsum</p>
<p>Very impressive.. Really good</p>
<p>And I'm still unsure about the tabletop,Do you glue the top, to the top of the 2x8(trestle) or glue to the sides of the 2x8 (you would see the trestle board from the top)when you're building the top?</p>
from ecija thank you
Thanks for posting this idea! It was my first diy project, here's my version. I used very ordinary ikea legs to give it a slimmer look. I might look for somewhat more unique legs in the future but for now I am pretty happy with the result. Thanks again!
<p>Looks fantastic with those modern chairs. Great job!</p>
<p>We scaled it down and added hairpin legs to make it more of a breakfast table. I love the concept and it came out great.</p><p>More on my blog: http://www.opshop.co/012-scrap-table/</p>
I've been eyeing this project for a while now and finally dove into it. I love the idea and the simplicity of it by using reclaimed wood. I found some free pallets on craigslist and hauled them back to the garage. The first step in my attempt was the most time consuming... pulling out hundreds upon hundreds of nails! After disassembling all the pallets and removing all the nails, I had an awesome selection of several different kinds of wood; Cedar, Pine, Red Oak and Yellow Poplar. Like most of the folks that have attempted this project, I too, had a little problem with the table warping a little. I think it has to do with the size of the long bolts that thread the table, lining up the drill holes, and also how tight you crank down the bolts. Since mine table was only 5ft long, I was able to loosen the bolts a little and bend into shape a little. It&rsquo;s not perfect but definitely better than what it looked like after I removed the &ldquo;tie-down-straps&rdquo;. Also, I wanted to leave the natural look of the wood and not add any slacker or poly, just natural butcher block oil. I point this out because I also copied your idea of using the white wall spackle and though it turned out nice, I don't think the spackle and the oil work well together, (just FYI for anyone that heads down the same path). All in all, the table turned out great and now resides in our kitchen ripe and ready for some pancakes &amp; syrup, Newspaper, and coffee! Thank you for posting this instruc&quot;table&quot;!! All photos I took on this project can be found here...&gt; https://plus.google.com/photos/102074343661266122615/albums/5839252574828603905?authkey=CPrpoJmQnIOHlAE
<p>What are the dimensions of your table? I wanted to build a bar top height one for the basement and I want it 8 feet long with about 22 inches in depth but I am afraid it will not be stable if it is 42 inches high. Any advice will help thanks.</p>
<p>I don't have experience with this specific project but from my work experience, stability of the bar top you are describing is going to depend on a few specific things:</p><p>- Rigidity of the legs</p><p>For a 42&quot; high table I might run a 'spine' block in the centre of each leg; screwed from the 'inside' leg. This makes each leg into a continuous vertical I-beam, giving it more resistance to bending</p><p>- Leg bracing</p><p>At the base of the legs I would definitely do the same as Wholman and use threaded rod all the way across to tie 2 sets of legs together</p><p>- Weight of the top</p><p>The thinner you can make the top; the lighter it will be. You want the centre of gravity as low as possible; so more weight on the bottom; less on the top. Since I don't know how to make the bottom heavier.... lightening the top is the next best thing. When drilling through for the threaded rods; I would drill some additional holes on the inner boards (where they will be hidden) to lighten it as much as possible</p><p>- Flatness of the surface on which it sits</p><p>If it's in a basement then I'm assuming it is on a concrete floor; but maybe there is carpet between the concrete and the table leg. If so; you want to make each leg base as big as possible so it has a nice large surface area in contact with the floor; this may mean again filling between the 2 sides of each leg with a solid piece that runs along the base of each foot.</p>
<p>I was inspired to make this from wholman in furniture on <br>instructables.com. The top portion is from two pallets (heat treated of <br> course for safety not the chemical treated) and the legs are from some <br> 30 year old scrap pine 1x10's I ripped down to the width of the pallet <br>slats used on top. I What I did different was I used the first <br>trellis and leg portion as a jig to drill holes in each board <br>individually for the threaded rod and they lined up perfectly! I did <br>not pinch the end of the legs together because they are only 17&quot; high <br>and thought they might break if I did that. I instead doubled them up <br> for proper thickness and strength. I used a belt sander to then <br>flush everything out on the top and two sides opposite of the threaded <br>rods and left the bottom unfinished and irregular on purpose. This table <br> is overbuilt and super strong! I used &quot;Fixall&quot; multipurpose filler <br>in the gaps. I used only boiled linseed oil and then a product with <br>bee's wax and linseed oil for the final finish and it turned out quite <br>nice! Other than that, I followed the same process in making this as <br>wholman did making his &quot;scrap table&quot; .</p>
<p>Great job! Looks like it'll last for generations.</p>
<p>Very nice piece !!!</p>
Thanks for the inspiration... I&nbsp;just finished my version: <a href="http://www.zieak.com/2009/12/14/table-made-from-scrap-lumber/" rel="nofollow">http://www.zieak.com/2009/12/14/table-made-from-scrap-lumber/</a><br />
I just read this post and was thinking about using the same table legs! I know it has been a couple of years but how stable was the table over time? thx D
It is still holding up! I am careful moving it around though - the table top is so heavy that they could tweak pretty easily otherwise.
<p>Just a thought, not trying to tell you what/how to do anything....</p><p>What about doubling the thickness of the legs?</p><p>Or maybe even 4x4's for legs? </p><p>6x6 would be over kill, but the weight they could hold....</p><p>Again, just another one of my hairbrained thoughts.... :)</p>
Great Idea just made a bench like that. I used wood screws instead of threaded shaft and metal for the legs.<br> <br> here are some pics I did<br> <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107531409320764434488/LampesBanc?authkey=Gv1sRgCMDXxp-7kK2bwQE#" rel="nofollow">https://picasaweb.google.com/107531409320764434488/LampesBanc?authkey=Gv1sRgCMDXxp-7kK2bwQE#</a><br> <br> thanks again<br> <br>
<p>DUDE!!!</p><p>WHERE DID YOU GET THAT PARABOLIC LAMP!! :D</p><p>I would kill to have a lamp like that! Not literally &quot;KILL&quot;, but....that lamp is so cool!!!</p><p>BTW, The table is ice too. :P</p>
Scrap but with style and not just pallets. Well done. Hope to share some of my scrap butcher blocks soon. Mike, Austin
I love recycling, your creation is perfection! <br>Thanks for sharing :)
Gorgeous. Love the end grain variation.
<p>Awesome, totally incredible! :)</p>
<p>Thank you for your sharing.</p>
<p>That table is beautiful!!!</p>
<p>Here's my big'un. 8' x 4.5'... Decided to go against the threaded rod at the bottom. My &quot;wings&quot; are heavy enough to cause the legs to pinch inward, so I only needed a brace to keep the legs from pinching in. That brace sits &quot;out of view&quot; much higher between the legs. Seats 12 comfortably, 2 on each end and 4 on each side. Thanks again for the great instructable!</p>
Wow. That came out gorgeous! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for doing this... I made a coffee table version without the metal rods or trestles. Here are some pics. More detail can be found in the gallery: <a href="http://imgur.com/a/n3qdm" rel="nofollow">http://imgur.com/a/n3qdm</a>
Thanks again @wholman for your clever and unique design. This is my second attempt (see previous comments). This time its a small dining table for my small apartment.
Hey here's my effort. <br> <br>It's just coffee table sized but followed the original as much as possible. I managed to salvage a lot of eucalypt hardwoods, and other bits and pieces of colourful timbres (you'd be suprised what's out there for free when you try). Tried to keep the top pieces in single pieces. <br> <br>Hints/regrets/mistakes**** <br> <br> - Allow plenty of distance from the table top when drilling booker-rod holes. <br> - Bore out the holes to allow for a bit of give some when it comes to straightening you're not restricted by the booker-rod <br> - prepare the timber strips as well as possible before attemping to glue (man I wish I had a thickness before I started!!!) <br> - get a socket set!! I didn't until the very end!!! <br> <br>Good luck!!
This my frist attempt to make a large table all out of scrap. <br>Still have a lot of sanding and sealing to do. <br>Alway seen other makers show there work <br>Thanks
Great result, well done.
Merci instructables!!! <br>Voil&Atilde;&nbsp; ma table
Looks beautiful, great job on it!
<a href="http://darkxblog.ru/" rel="nofollow">Все о строительстве</a>
A few comments on your lamination process.... <br> <br>In addition to the threaded rods, ratchet straps make good substitutes for bar or pipe clamps. Use an extra block of scrap wood under each end of the straps (or clamps) so they don't dig into your wood edges. <br> <br>I found that drilling holes for the threaded rods is not so much of a nightmare if you dry-assemble your tabletop first, then draw lines across with a straightedge where you want to bury the rods. (This may not work so well if you're using boards of random width, though.) Then just use a speed square to drop down 1 /12&quot; or so, mark and drill your holes there. Use a drill bit that's larger than your rod, so if you miss the exact alignment, the rods will still go though, maybe with some encouragement from a mallet. <br> <br>Finally a word of caution. I don't know if you placed your &quot;stack&quot; of boards vertically to dry (as one of the photos shows), but I did so on my own table project, and the resulting surface was warped a bit. Just clamping isn't enough to ensure a flat final surface, I think. Probably I should have clamped the stack, then laid it flat (face down) on a flat surface, and weighted it.
awesome ible. great design.
Excellent instructable! I'm excited to finally be doing this project on my own. <br> <br>I'm making a coffee table out of oak salvaged from a barn, redwood salvaged from a deck, and fir from some old studs in our house where we're doing a remodeling project. <br> <br>I have heard (from a contractor friend) that fir was widely used for home construction several decades ago, so if you're doing any kind of demolition (i.e. for remodeling), you might look to that as a source of salvage wood for this type of project. I also heard that fir turns a beautiful red color when applied w/ polyurethane -- no stain needed.
I had been thinking about building something like this for a while now. I was relieved to find this and see that it is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Great table.
Thanks for the great design and thorough instruction! We just finished our version (3x5) and are very pleased. For other viewers' reference, we adjusted the angle of the legs a bit to make ours work aesthetically, and we found that we didn't need threaded rod through the legs (just used bolts). <br><br>Lumber all from a scrap pile at Longleaf Lumber, for those of you in Boston.
I've read this line a dozen times: &quot;What you want is the feet to be in line with the end of the table top.&quot; And it still makes no sense to me.<br><br>What does it mean? Looking at the top photos, the bottoms of the legs are nowhere near in line with the ends of the table.<br><br>How did you decide the angle of the legs?
If you drop a plumb line from the edge of the table top to the ground, the bottom of the leg would meet it.
Here's a diagram describing my confusion. The sentence I'm trying to understand is in step 1, paragraph 4, where we're working out the angle the legs should make with the trestles.

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Bio: Furniture hacker. Author of Guerilla Furniture Design, out now. Find me on Twitter and Instagram @objectguerilla.
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