After seeing the balancing skateboard, we thought we would built a Balancing Platform to test out the technology. We bought some rear ends of kids scooter for the drive wheel/motor and the electronics that XenonJohn suggested.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-build-self-balancing-skateboardrobotsegway-/
Making a stand-on balancing unit is the same as a skateboard but the wheels are wider apart and the board is turned 90deg so the rear end of kids scooters were used. They were quite small but were quick and easy for testing.
Just don't hit any big bumps! We only had a few bit of skin missing from our shins and one hole in the wall!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-build-self-balancing-skateboardrobotsegway-/
Making a stand-on balancing unit is the same as a skateboard but the wheels are wider apart and the board is turned 90deg so the rear end of kids scooters were used. They were quite small but were quick and easy for testing.
Just don't hit any big bumps! We only had a few bit of skin missing from our shins and one hole in the wall!
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Signing UpStep 1: Details about the build
Some rear ends of kids scooter were purchased for the drive wheel/motor as were the electronics that XenonJohn suggested.
Angle steel, flat plate and some tube were welded together to make an area to stand on and a handle out the front. The motors bolted on the sides and the electronics was fitted to the front. A torch was cut in half to use as a battery holder which fitted to the top of one of the motors. Now, the electrician needs a new torch! An old piece of plywood was used for the standing platform.
Now it looks like a real prototype!
It took a couple of attempts to get the polarity to the motors correct but it worked pretty much first go. The torque and power values were adjusted as we were using a 18Volt battery instead of 24volts that the motors are rated at.
It worked quite well.
Angle steel, flat plate and some tube were welded together to make an area to stand on and a handle out the front. The motors bolted on the sides and the electronics was fitted to the front. A torch was cut in half to use as a battery holder which fitted to the top of one of the motors. Now, the electrician needs a new torch! An old piece of plywood was used for the standing platform.
Now it looks like a real prototype!
It took a couple of attempts to get the polarity to the motors correct but it worked pretty much first go. The torque and power values were adjusted as we were using a 18Volt battery instead of 24volts that the motors are rated at.
It worked quite well.
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Is this the motor you used in your project?
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=116&products_id=904&osCsid=fa4258edc2cda57456c25411f15f8672
But if you have the ability for welding etc. get the large wheels and 200w or 300w motors
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=116&products_id=810&osCsid=fa4258edc2cda57456c25411f15f8672
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=975&osCsid=fa4258edc2cda57456c25411f15f8672
put a spot of weld on the ratchet mechansm.
can it self balancing when no people above it?
thanks
I've noticed that in your wiring diagram the killswitch, the L/R steering and tilt adjust are connected between the digital I/O and GND, whereas in XenonJohn's diagram they are wired between digital I/O and +5V (with the digital I/O connected to GND over pull-down resistors).
If I do the wiring according to XenonJohn's schema, then the killswitch actually kills when pressed. With your wiring it does not work at all.
Kind regards,
Franky
The sabertooth actually supplys 5V to the Arduino no the other way around.
This is required.
You need to make a decision on who's project you are basing your scooter on.
The circuit is different because the code is different.
They are not interchangable. Use Johns code/circuit or ours.
We don't use resistors because we use the internal resistor built into the Arduino.
They are pullup resistors so you switch to ground to turn on.
We use the 5Volt regulator built into the saber tooth to power the circuit.
We have tried to make the wiring as easy as possible.
Hope this helps.
Is it required or not?
Anyway thanks for such a great project. Can't wait to get it to work
Kind regards,
Franky
the keyword "BYTE" is not supported, instead use "Serial.write ()". How do I change it?
The software won't compile with version 1.0 or later.
They changed the serial commands.
This should work fine.
You have seen this one too?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Self-Balancing-Scooter-Ver-20/
Same unit just more plastic.
The IMU should be on an angle to start, Then you bring it upright for them to turn on the motors.
But when you first turn on the circuit you must not move the IMU for at least 4 seconds for it to calibrate.
If you do then you will get strange angles etc.
Rod
That's right. That is how the deadman switch works.
If you release it the unit will stop. Usually it is on the foot platform.
So if you fall off it will stop.
So what exactly is the issue your having?
I use:
Arduino;
Sabertooth Dual 25A;
180W 24V motors;
12V batteries.
It should be mounted upright and tighly fixed.
The screw holes should be down the bottom and the back of the circuit board towards the front.
Check the driving when off ground.
If you tilt forward then it should drive forward.
Also are you having it tilted forward when you turn it on and not moving it for about 4 seconds.
The motors shouldn't be driving at all during this startup procedure.
Then you slowly tilt it forward until the motors turn on.
At this time the IMU should be upright.
When you tilt forward it should drive forward.
If it drives backwards then the motors are connect around the wrong way.
Once vertical the motors should turn on and the unit starts balancing.
Is it the same IMU as I recommended?
You will find it it tuned to suit the 18Volts we used.
It will settle down once stood on.
If you want to adjust this there is a power and torque setting at the start of the code.
Adjust this by small amounts.
Stand on the scooter and see if it works!
If it is still shakey then change the values of power and torque at the start of the code until you are happy.
Let me know if it is not as shakey when you stand on it!!!!!!
that should get it working ok.
THANKS :)
Remember there is no speed control so when you get to full speed the motors can't keep up and you will fall off the end.
Have fun and be safe!
As soon as the circuit I'll let you know if it works properly :)
Thanks for your interest!
Im using 250 Watt, 24 volt DC motors. As per my calculations total current thru each motor would be ~10.8A.
So will the 2x 12 Sabertooth be ok, as it is rated for upto 12 Amps and 25 Amps peak current?