Picture of Skyrim Dragon Priest Mask
Ever wanted to be part of an evil, dragon worshiping cult? I know I have!
If you've ever played through Skyrim, you will probably have found at least one of these masks while adventuring. While there's some disagreement, a lot of people think that they are one of the best-designed pieces of equipment in the game. This instructable will show you how to make your own dragon priest mask, whether it be Krosis, Morokei or perhaps even Konahrik.

If you already have a couple of tools, this should be fairly cheap to make and there's room for variation, too.
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Step 1: Ingredients

Picture of Ingredients
It may surprise you to know that this heavy, sturdy mask is actually built around paper. If you're at all familiar with "Pepakura" then you'll know the great things it can be used to create. The download page can be found here. As for the model, I found it on the rpf forums and the download link is here. Credit, of course to the creator of the model for the free download.

-Resin and hardener - Depending on how obsessive you are, you will need somewhere between 250ml-500ml.
-Filler or "Bondo" - Only a small amount, just for neatening up edges. Get the smallest tub.
-Fibreglass - this goes on the inside, so don't worry about thickness.
-Paper - You will need fairly thick paper, but no more than 10 pages of it (Provided you succeed the first time around).
-Glue - You can buy glue specifically for paper craft, but otherwise a glue gun will create very strong yet flexible bonds.
-Various grades of sandpaper.
-Paint - You can paint the mask however you like since there are variations in-game.
-Foam - Optional, if your crest fails like mine did.

-Rubber Gloves
-Old Clothes - If resin gets into any piece of clothing, consider it scrap cloth. Use clothes you dont mind getting ruined.
-Gas Mask - For when you start sanding.
-Eye protection - For sanding.

-Dremel or other similar tool - Optional, but very useful when sandpaper cannot reach certain areas.
-Files - Again optional, but useful for creating sharp edges.
-Sharp Knife and Cutting Board
-Patience - This is relative to how good you want the final piece to be, but be prepared to spend hours sanding.
-Stirring stick
-A stand to paint on - This can be anything you don't mind getting painted on.
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vtheawesome2 months ago
Question, do I have to scale the model, or is it good as it is?
Ikkalebob (author)  vtheawesome2 months ago
Its already to scale

Thanks man, awesome project.

Ikkalebob (author)  vtheawesome2 months ago
I believe it is anyway, it's been so long since I did it that I dont know for certain. You could try printing just one page with an eyehole or something,that should give you a good indication
vvilela15 months ago
The most fun I had this summer holiday. Great instructable. I just had to change some bits up.

Thank you so much man!
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Ikkalebob (author)  vvilela15 months ago
Nice job, I especially like how comfortable it looks, mine's basically a web of pointy fibreglass inside. I like the hood too, I might have to do one myself for halloween :D
generaldidsy5 months ago

Cheers for the instructable! was really fun!! :D

GEEK design made it!5 months ago

Just another day in office... :D

TheStuUurgE6 months ago

You should try craft foam or a closed cell, EVA foam

Vokun8 months ago
this was the most fun project to make
Eldalote9 months ago

That's really awesome!

jtrc1 year ago
Very impressive
Me and my girlfriend want to make two of these, but our local art store don't have any fiber glass and their epoxy is quite expensive
Is fiber glass boat epoxy suitable for such a project ? (since it's half the price)
Also, got any idea where i could find fiberglass or any alternative product that i could use ?
And yes we will use them, and yes we will fight with them on battlegrounds :P

thanks for your respond, but especially for your wonderfull work !
Ikkalebob (author)  jtrc1 year ago
Your comment is much appreciated! With regards to boat epoxy, I've never used it myself but it should be fine so long as it is easy to spread over the paper and not too thick. Although If it does end up too thick, you could thin it out with turpentine. As for the fibreglass there are a few different things you could try, some cotton cloth could work although I would recommend that you test on some scrap paper first. Any kind of porous cloth should do fine, otherwise I found some more ideas on a forum post:
And finally fibreglass products are generally really easy to pick up, the majority of hardware shops, Halfords and arts and crafts stores should have it in. The cheapest place to get would probably be a car-body shop, if you can find one.
jtrc Ikkalebob1 year ago
saddly, i failed mine, it glued to the support while drying and falled appart

but that was 6 months ago !

for this summer i'm trying to make a new one using thicker paper, masking tape and areosol ruber ! :D
jtrc Ikkalebob1 year ago
thanks a lot for your quick answer, I'll post a picture of the final results, if there's one :P
I hope you'll continue to make us other great instructables !
snowrose881 year ago

So awesome ^^,

[Shizu - you almost nailed it, pEpakura* ;) ]

really amazing job. I've seen papakura (sure i butchered that spelling) but from original I wouldn't have believe it came from that.

Rickter1 year ago

Ikkalebob what type or brand of gold paint did you use? I'm having a hard time finding metallic gold paint that looks like that. BTW thanks for this amazing tutorial :)

caposhi1 year ago
I'm having so much trouble finding the assembly instructions.. I'm trying to put it together without it, but it's a bit tedious.. Do you happen to have a direct link? Thanks so much.
Ikkalebob (author)  caposhi1 year ago
There aren't any assembly instructions for this specific model, its very tedious but unfortunately you have to figure it out yourself to some degree. My best advice is to just constantly refer to the Pepakura program, using the feature where you can click on a section to see what it looks like and how it attaches to the rest of the model. Unfortunately there's a lot of improvisation with this step, but just use the numbering on the tabs and keep referring to the 3D model and you should be fine. If you still need help there should be instructions built into the program, try pressing F1 but otherwise its been so long since I've used the program that I wouldn't remember.
Oh alright. This helps, thanks. And thanks so much for the fast reply.
lmacha11 year ago
What is the point of sanding off the dried resin?
Ikkalebob (author)  lmacha11 year ago
The resin will most likely have brush marks in it where it has been brushed on, and it will probably run a little too. Its very difficult to get an even coat on, and even if you did manage to get it perfectly smooth, sanding the resin down will make the paint and filler (If necessary) stick much better.
How much did the materials in total cost you? I'm looking to film a Skyrim short in the next couple of weeks and this looks like a better option than buying from Etsy.
Ikkalebob (author)  HolingStone1 year ago
The materials cost around £30/$50, though I'm sure you could find cheaper options since I was left with quite a lot of surplus at the end. However if you need to buy the sandpaper, files, Dremel and other equipment, then it might be a lot more cost efficient to buy from Etsy.
what gold paint DID you use? most gold paint i've seen is spray paint, and looks absolutely wretched. i'd love to know how to get something so metalic as what you have. it's glorious... (love the whole thing btw. beutiful, looks authentic)
Ikkalebob (author)  badideasrus1 year ago
Thanks for your comment, the paint I used was just some generic decorative spray paint I picked up from B&Q, but I think that the most important factor in the paint-job is that the surface is adequately prepared. Provided that you've used a really high-grade sandpaper on the surface, and the paint is applied evenly, it should look pretty good. I also gave mine a slight polish with a soft cloth to bring out the shine.
i've done the pepakura but i used clear tape because i had trouble with the glue holding. Is it ok to continue with the step by sanding the tape surface. Oh and thanks for the instructions.
Ikkalebob (author)  villagerbeef1 year ago
If the tape is on the inside of the mask then it should be no trouble at all, however if it is on the outer surface then it may be a little difficult. If so, just make sure that the resin covers the tape entirely and try not to sand down to the tape itself. Good luck.
RyGuy6121 year ago
What type of foam did you use to build up the forehead/top part?
Ikkalebob (author)  RyGuy6121 year ago
What I used were "Scotch Brite Pads", which are used to remove dirt or as an alternative to low-grade sandpaper. They probably weren't the best option, but it seemed to work quite well.
Ok thanks, I was thinking using like gardeners foam or just styrofoam.
Ikkalebob (author)  RyGuy6121 year ago
To be honest that could probably work well, I just used what I used because it was at hand and cheap.
kbrunskill1 year ago
Thanks dude!
RyGuy6121 year ago
do you put body filler over the front of the mask or do you just sand your primer and fiberglass?
Ikkalebob (author)  RyGuy6121 year ago
Its entirely up to you. My mask was quite warped because I had put too much resin on and the forehead had begun to cave in, so I used filler to re-shape the forehead and the cheekbones. I would avoid using filler on the front though since its very tedious but at the same time I would encourage you to use it if the shape is going badly. So really its just down to whether or not you deem it necessary.
kbrunskill1 year ago
Hey I'm new to using fibre glass and resin and was just wondering where you bought the materials and what I should be looking for as I'm keen to give it a go myself.
Ikkalebob (author)  kbrunskill1 year ago
I managed to find all of the materials from Halfords, but some of them are cheaper if you go to an actual car body repair shop, namely the fibreglass, filler and primer. As for what you are looking for, the actual fibreglass can be as thick as you like since its only going on the inside, and for all the rest of the materials there isn't really anything specific you need to look for. If you do end up going to Halfords, the "Fastglas" resin and fibreglass I used work great and are pretty cheap too.
mattiemack1 year ago
the dowloads i keep getting are corrupted is it possible for you to save em as a jpeg and just post the templates as pictures? it would be greatly apreciated
The document for the actual template has disappeared!
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