Introduction: Skyrim Nordic Helm (mark2)

First off, let me explain, if you've read any of my other posts you'll know I make helmets, I was gonna try and stop and start on something else, well I have( sort of) I started this a while ago, but I have started other things which aren't helmets ( and to be honest I've started other helms too! But I'm ok with it! )
anyways this is the mark2 ( but really it's mark3, I did one for my friend joey24dirt ) this is a refined, smarter version of the first lid, with the detail of the second lid, also I've tried to do this one as simple as possible for anyone that wants to make one, please enjoy:-

Step 1: Some Stuff

Tools and bits and bobs your going to need and have time on your side!:-

-Card (I use 200msg card stock,I've come to find it's the best )

-Printer/computer (running pepakura viewer/designer, it's a free program just google it and you'll find it ok)

-The file you want to make ( easily found if you google skyrim pepakura files, there loads on the net, you just got to find what you want)

-knife ( Stanley/x-acto/sissors, whatever your happy using)

-glue ( I use normal superglue, but you can use pva or hot glue, anything you're happy using)

-fiberglass kit( you only need the resin/hardner)

-bondo

-sandpaper/orbital sander (dermel tool)

-paints

-milliput( apoxy two part putty stuff)

-brushes/rag

-a few bits and bobs I've probably forgot! (Sorry)

-coffee

-time

-more coffee

Step 2: Pepakura

As with all the others you start with the pep file, for this I modifided the pepakura file, I made it 20% smaller, then printed it out on 200msg card,

I score all the folds before cutting out and when I do cut out I use a Stanley knife, I'm confident with that knife, it doesn't flex like a x-acto and it's too slow with sissors,

After cutting out your bits, match up the two numbers for every piece, slowly you'll make up the helmet like a jigsaw, and you'll end up with this!

Step 3: Glassing

After your happy with your finished pepakura build, it's time to make it strong!

Here's what I do, first off I fiberglass the helm, I normally do one coat of just the resin on the inside, then two on the outside, follow the instruction on the resin bottle to make your mix, then just paint it on the helmet( outside or in a well ventilated area!), you have to work fast as this stuff goes off quick!

Step 4: Bondo/sanding

This part takes the most time I think, after your fiberglassing has cured , it's time to use bondo to cover the helmet,
I mix small amounts at a time and start at the front and just keep working till the full helmet is covered in a thin (ish) layer of bondo, trying to keep it as smooth as possible to make the next step a little easier
Which takes me to the next step, sanding! This takes time, you can use sandpaper or a orbital sander or a dremel tool or whatever you want to get the finish you want!

I use a orbital sander to get it smooth to a point I can then use just sandpaper to work out the kinks and make it more refined, I then use a dremel to get into the hard bits and I also use the dremel to put in some basic detail like scratches and dents

( also in this bit you'll see on the inside of the lid I added multiput all around the edge and across the nose on the inside, I noticed on my other helmet there was a lot of flex and wanted to reduce that, I did this before fiberglassing but to be honest you could do this anytime, or not if you didn't want too)

Step 5: Horns Prep Work

This time with the horns I wanted to do them different, here's what I did
With the pepakura horns not attached to the main helmet, i wanted to wrap them to look like a proper animal horn, I used apoxy putty to wrap the horns, mixing the putty in stages and rolling it out as thin as possible then wrapping the horns from the tip to the base, warning!! This is a long process! Like stupid long! It took me two days to make them look right! I'm not sure this is the best way, but I have to work within my means and this is what I could afford,

After wrapping and they've gone hard, I painted them with white gloss twice, then I use walnut wood stain to make the detail pop, using a small brush to paint the stain into the horns and get into all the little bits

Step 6: Planning and Coffee and Detail!

Now , over my time of doing helmets, the bit I really enjoy seems to change depending on the lid, this is the 3rd Nordic helmet I've done and this bit I enjoy the most,
I wanted the helmet to look plain from the front, but I wanted the back to be detailed, really detailed, it's a step away from the game helmet but it's up to you what you want it to look like, I've already done a game accurate lid so I decided this one would be a bit different but still within the realm of skyrim,
Make yourself a coffee and set to work planning out how you want it to be with a pen, once your happy, I used the two part apoxy rolled out and placed onto the lid, I then wet my fingers to "sculpt" it into a better line, making it come to a point all the way round and also matching the dents and scratches as I go, it all helps to do it now before paint

Step 7: Paint

Once I've left it over night to set, I paint on a coat of silver metal paint, ( 2 coats if needed) then dry, then I use a black gloss and a rag, I get the black paint into all the corners and detailed bits, then when it's still wet I remove as much as possible, but leaving in the corners to make it weathered, I also use some browns and other colours to help it look aged!

Step 8: Final Build,

Wow only 8 steps ! I'm getting better!

Well we are almost there, your helmets painted and looking good, the horns are ready to go, it's time to thread the horns into the helmet from the inside, then when you have them in a nice spot, I tape the inside so they don't move while I use e6000 glue( or hotglue) to stick them in place, you might have a few gaps which is fine, use some of the mulliput apoxy to fill the gaps and smooth out, this will also help stead the horns and make them bond with the lid.

Step 9: And Done!

Everything set? Good stuff!

Remove the tape from the inside and make sure there set firm!
Right you got a bit of tidying up to do on the horns, same as before, paint silver, dry, then black and rag it off, while you have the black out, paint the inside of the helmet black,once that's dry a little bit of thin foam on the inside just to make it more comfy to wear!
I then clear coat the outside with a few coats of spray satin or mat varnish, and that's it! Your done, and a proud owner of your very own Nordic skyrim helmet!

Thanks for having a look, I have tried to cover everything that I did in this build, but if you think I've missed anything please leave a question, and I'll try answering as best I can!

Happy building folks!

Comments

author
AkramM6 (author)2016-02-23

Hi ! can you give me the link of the file pls

author
matson23 (author)AkramM62016-02-23

I'm sorry it was a while ago, not sure if it's still a link, try the Rpf.Com

author
JhadrakG (author)matson232016-03-13

hi matson23 you can giveme the link for download this model in pepakura??? or pdf??

author
noi1980 (author)2015-08-17

Красотень)))) спасибо большое а можно узнать поподробней???

author
Super_seal (author)2015-04-10

This is awesome! You're really talented!!

author
ashley.pitham (author)2015-03-07

Soooo damn cool!

author
Flash67 (author)2014-10-20

This helmet looks really realistic! Good job

author
matson23 (author)Flash672015-03-03

Thank you!

author
Fourbits (author)2015-03-03

Looks amazing! Is "apoxy" a special substance, or do you mean "epoxy?"

author
matson23 (author)Fourbits2015-03-03

Thank you, and no, I'm just a bad speller Haha, I mean epoxy ?

author
daddy wipz0 (author)2014-10-06

great designs. gonna get my geek on! im new to the pep stuff. I'd like to try the helmet from the new dredd film. hint.

author
matson23 (author)daddy wipz02014-10-06

Thanks man, I've seen a bunch of dredd pep stuff, and it looks like a good one to start with of your new to it, not to taxing, good luck with it dude would love to see some pictures when your done!

author
daddy wipz0 (author)matson232014-10-07

sound man I'll have to check it out. just in the process of acquiring all the bits. I'll post some pic once underway. cheers bud

author
Locosplay (author)2014-07-13

I'm planning to make a pepakura orcish bow (120cm/48 inches long) but I absolutely hate fiberglass.. Would it be possible to just coat it in two or three layers of the resin (it's resin, right?) that comes with the fibreglass mats and then paint it and voilà?

I'm not planning to put much stress on the bow (I'll be carrying it around during a con) but I might accidentily drop it or bump into people.

So my question is: will applying 2-3 coats of resin make my bow sturdy enough?

author
matson23 (author)Locosplay2014-07-13

I think if your taking it to a con, I would either, glue wooden inserts into it ( like 3 mm strips of ply ) then glass over them on the inside, or build it up, resin it, then expanding foam on the inside ( very messy if it's goes wrong!) or just bite the bullet and fiberglass it, I've never built a bow from card, but I should imagine it'll want to flex and move a bit, also when you put a bit of tension on it with the bow string, even of it is just for show and not tight, it could snap the bow, good luck with what you decide to do! I hope it works out!

author
Putor (author)2014-05-09

Ah my ask, how download PDF archive?

Need help! Thank!

author
matson23 (author)Putor2014-05-09

Hey putor,
The one I have isn't a PDF, its a pdo, its a file that works in pepakura viewer, you can download pepakura viewer for free of you google " pepakura viewer" and click the top link, once you have the viewer, go to therpf.com or just search skyrim Nordic helmet pepakura file, you should find a pdo file for it pretty easy, ( you might have to join a file sharing group called 4share, but it's legit so don't worry) once you've downloaded it, open it in pepakura viewer and your ready to go! Print and get started!

If I could put the file on here for you I would but unfortunately I can't, sorry, anyway I hope that helps.

author
Putor (author)matson232014-05-09

Ok, thanks bro for your help.

You work is epic :D

author
matson23 (author)2014-03-26

Thank you! :)

author
kingwolf44 (author)2014-02-17

Ok thanks!

author
kingwolf44 (author)2014-02-16

Is this fragile? Or can it take a beating?

author
matson23 (author)kingwolf442014-02-17

yeah its fine, not fragile, but at the same time I wouldnt take a axe to the head

author
Attmos (author)2014-02-12

Another Masterpiece!

author
ibwebb (author)2014-02-10

Very cool and well thought out... though I have a problem already. You are trying to tell me that with 'coffee and more coffee' I can do this, but I need more than that to get through the morning. What sort of magical stuff is in this coffee you drink? JK-lol Very awesome and passed on to a friend that wants to take your technique to try to make a different helmet he has been jonesing on. If he really goes through with it I will come back with pics, but I am not holding my breath on this (he is the type that isn't sure which end of a screwdriver to hold).

author
matson23 (author)ibwebb2014-02-11

Haha coffee is the way forward my friend, it's a special blend of hard narcotics and ground beans! Just kidding, but I do have to have a few hundred cups to keep me up! :) lol

Well I hope your friend makes use of this and does a good job! I'll look forward to pictures if he gets round to it! Thanks for the kind words! :)

author
Tigerabilis (author)2014-02-09

Very well done and beautiful paint job!
Here's something that I tried and it worked out great... Make your pepakura as usual, but glue all the tabs on the outside instead. You want the inside as smooth as possible. Then coat the inside with paste wax. Use a fine brush. Start with your bondo then fiberglass. Once it has set you can pull the paper off like a mold. Cuts out hours of sanding!

SC Johnson Paste Wax.jpg
author
Tigerabilis (author)Tigerabilis2014-02-09

Oh.... forgot to mention... Bondo and glass on the INSIDE

author
matson23 (author)Tigerabilis2014-02-10

Hey tigerabilis, nice tip thanks! Does it affect your size? Or is working from outside to in not make that much difference? I suppose it would only be a few mm's so it would make to much difference, thanks for the kind words and genius tip! :)

author
Tigerabilis (author)matson232014-02-10

It does have a small effect. I would recommend using the measure tool in Pepakura to check it against your head or the wearer. I've done a couple masks like that. It mainly depende on how thich you plan on glassing it (everyone has their preference) Here's an image of an Iron Man MK VII mask I did... there's no paper on this and it has NOT been sanded. I did scrape a couple small seams on the face with a razor blade, but that's it.
I got the idea fro the Moulders and Casters Handbook and treated the paper (a porous surface) as I would plaster of paris.

I'm happy to help. Your painting is awesome... I am still severly lacking in that department!

IMG_2613.JPG
author
matson23 (author)Tigerabilis2014-02-11

Yes it does leave a good finish to work on, I have yet to do anything with my ironman lid but I might start again and try your way and see what happens! Thanks again! :)

author
gravityisweak (author)2014-02-06

Excellent work as always. How many hours of work went into this in total?

author
matson23 (author)gravityisweak2014-02-07

Thank you, as this was my 3rd go at the same lid, it came together real quick, I'd say 10hrs in total over a week, I only get to play a few hours a night because of normal work and after the kids go to bed then I get a little bit of time to do stuff

author
joey24dirt (author)2014-02-06

Looks ok I guess ;-) haha just kidding mate this is the best so far. Only just realised that the detail sweeps around the horns too. We'll have to go out one night with them on just for a dafty ha !

author
matson23 (author)joey24dirt2014-02-07

Haha yeah dude, we'll go on a pillage! ;)

author
Reich_A_Tree (author)2014-02-06

This is really cool. I'm working on a Daedric cosplay at the moment. you use fiberglass, bondo and apoxy. are these expensive to get your hands on... I don't have a lot of money, so I usually opt for cheaper alternatives which require more work and difficult substitution. (and I won't be using Paper Craft because I'm doing the Full armour)

Also i think your added detail looks AMAZING!

author
matson23 (author)Reich_A_Tree2014-02-06

Hey thanks!
No the materials are pretty cheap, like you I don't have a lot of money for my projects so I have to make do with what I can afford, bondos is like £6, fiberglass Is £10 for a kit, and the apoxy is £3,
Good luck with your build! Look forward to seeing it! :)

author
dstump1436 (author)2014-02-06

Where do you get the card to print with? And do you use spray paint for any of it?

author
matson23 (author)dstump14362014-02-06

The card is from a stationary shop, most craft shops will stock it, and no spray paint was used, I used a spray varnish to clear coat the final helmet but that's it, cheers for looking! :)

author
PossibleFire (author)2014-02-06

Wow! Looks straight outta the game dude. Awesome work!

author
ccooker (author)2014-02-06

Wow. You have great talent. Very nice work.

author
sperky69 (author)2014-02-06

very kewl. nice work!¡!

author
schapman13 (author)2014-02-06

How much did the materials for this cost and how much does it weigh

author
matson23 (author)schapman132014-02-06

I had most if the materials already from other builds, but card is cheap, mulliput apoxy is about £3, (x3) fiberglass is £10 for a kit that you could glass about 5 helmets in total with one kit,paints I had, same with the bondo, it's more time than anything, as for weight, it's just under 1lb

author
titaniumsack (author)2014-02-06

Woah

author
andrea biffi (author)2014-02-06

that's incredible! I love it!

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