Step 8: Final Touches

I'm on Your Side!

Side Panels

  1. Measure the outside dimension between the top & bottom panels, cut 2 pieces of cardboard this dimension by 3".
  2. On one long end of both pieces scribe the radius of the back cover, then cut the radius.
  3. Measure and cut an opening that matches the "window" for the recessed control panel in one side panel (see Figure 1). If you installed a charging jack on the other side then repeat this process for the other side panel, if not then don't.
  4. Measure for and cut 2 pieces of aluminum tape to match the end profile of the reflector and carefully cut and apply them to the inside of the side panels (see Figure 2).
  5. Make sure that the side framing is free of any protrusions, lightly sand if necessary to make the surfaces flat.
  6. Apply a bead of glue to all edges of the control panel side frame, carefully center the side panel over the frame and press it down holding it in place until the glue sets. Repeat for the other side panel.
  7. Cut 2 pieces of craft stick 1" long keeping the radius on one end of each. Glue one centered on the inside at the radiused end of each side panel (see Figure 3)
  8. If you are using the charging option then drill an 1/8" hole through the side panel and radius end stick at the height centerline and 1/4" from the rear "stud" (see Figure 3). Cut a 1/2" length of ball point pen tube and glue it centered over the hole you just drilled. Insert your red LED charge indicator in this tube and glue it in.

Install the Lens

1. Slide the lens over the reflector opening and secure it in place around the perimeter flange with small pieces of scotch tape.

Skin it with Tape

I'll leave this up to your creativity. I use the duct tape skin on mine as the hinge for the back cover and then close it on the other side with a removable strip of electrical tape for access.

LaForge to Enterprise....Mission complete one to beam up.

This is really cool I love Star Trek
<p>Glad you like it, fellow trekie. Next Gen is my fav. </p>
how would you wire it without the transformer I am going to use a different battery
If you don't use the oscillator driver circuit then I recommend you wire the LED's in parallel, wire in a 100 to 220 OHM 1/2 W series resistor, and power it with 6 VDC (4 AA or AAA cells).
okay thanks
Instead of a toliet paper tube i am goin to use a pvc pipe i have laying around and I am going to cut it in half it will be stronger
I originally considered using PVC pipe for this project. Ultimately I decided for my purposes a cardboard tube was acceptable, and it is fairly sturdy when completely constructed. Please post some photos of your replication and and share your experience and thoughts.
This is very cool man!
very nice. <br>
I really like this Instructable! I like the layout, the attention to detail, and especially enjoy the humorous comments and section titles. I wish I had seen this Instructable prior to posting my first. Two thumbs up!
Thanks, I'm pleased you like it. I have worked on a lot of cars, and over the years I've referred to many a repair manual and appreciate the detailed instructions SOME of them provide, this was the primary inspiration for the format of this ible.
Ha, that is so awesome! I love how in the future man has evolved beyond the need for handles on their flashlights. Btw those step titles are hilarous. <br> <br>I've never seen that type of oscillator before and I'm having a hard time wrapping my mind around it. Is there a technical name for it that I could google to learn more?
Thanks, yeah the Enterprise crew wouldn't embarrass themselves by showing up at a disaster to save the day wielding clunky 6V dry cell lanterns. <br> <br>The oscillator circuit is similar to what has become known as a &quot;Joule Thief&quot;. It's just a simple circuit that meets the most basic requirements to oscillate, feedback &amp; gain greater than 1. For this project the function of the oscillator is to boost the voltage above 15V which is necessary to light the 5 LED's in series. I added a potentiometer, and chose the resistance values so that with a fresh 9V battery @ the dimmest setting the total (measured) current draw is about 13mA, &amp; @ the brightest setting it's about 70mA. An advantage of this configuration is that even as the batteries voltage degrades the circuit keeps boosting the voltage allowing more of the batteries potential to be used when compared to a straight DC circuit.

About This Instructable




Bio: Exploring the cosmos one synapse fire and one mouse click at a time.
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