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Picture of The Easter Solar Engine
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A Solar Engine is a circuit that takes in and stores electrical energy from solar cells, and when a predetermined amount has accumulated, it switches on to drive a motor or other actuator.  A solar engine is not really an 'engine' in itself, but that is its name by established usage.  It does provide  motive  force, and does work in a repeating cycle, so the name is not a complete misnomer.  Its  virtue is that it provides usable mechanical energy when only meager or weak levels of sunlight, or artificial room light, are  present.  It harvests or gathers, as it were, bunches of low  grade energy until there is enough for an energy giving meal for a motor.  And when the motor has expended the serving of energy, the solar engine circuit goes back into its gathering mode.  It is an ideal way to intermittently power models, toys, or other small gadgets on very low light levels.

It is a great idea which was first thought up and reduced to practice by one Mark Tilden, a scientist at Los Alamos National Laboratory. He came up with an elegantly simple two-transistor solar engine circuit that made tiny solar powered robots possible.

Since then, a number of enthusiasts have thought up solar engine circuits with various features and improvements. The one described herein has proven itself to be very versatile and robust.  It is named after the day on which its circuit diagram was finalized and entered into the author's Workshop Notebook, Easter Sunday, 2001.  Over the years since, the author has made and tested several dozen in various applications and settings.   It works well in low light or high, with large storage capacitors or small.  And the circuit uses only common discrete electronic components: diodes, transistors, resistors and a capacitor. 

This Instructable describes the basic Easter Engine circuit, how it works, construction suggestions, and shows some applications.   A basic familiarity with electronics and soldering up circuits is assumed.  If you haven't done anything like this but are eager to have a go, it would be well to first tackle something simpler.   You might try the The FLED Solar Engine in Instructables or the "Solar Powered Symet" described in the book "Junkbots, Bugbots, & Bots on Wheels", which is an excellent introduction to making projects such as this one. 
 
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lfc44418 days ago
Hi, how can i connect two of these together? Is it possible to use one capacitor for power while the other charges and then switch back again? Thanks for the great info too!
bneo99 made it!1 month ago

Made one with 1N4001 diodes, and used different resistors in series to get the correct values, works nicely!

P1090508.JPGP1090509.JPG
TinkerJim (author)  bneo9928 days ago

Nice Job !!! I like the way you used those tiny resistors on the backside. Thanks for sending along the photos.

MichaW6 months ago

I am not sure which way to put in the diode an led. Maybe you could clearify? thanks

TinkerJim (author)  MichaW6 months ago

The schematic in Step 1 is clear on these points. You just have to distinguish the anode from the cathode ends on the diodes and leds you want to use. The cathode end of a diode is usually marked with a band. The cathode side of an led is usually indicated by a flat portion on the lens.
The references cited in the Intro step will be very helpful for questions such as these. In any event, put the circuit together on a solderless breadboard to make sure everything is working correctly before you warm up the soldering iron.

atilladolphun8 months ago

oh fun now to see if i can combine that circut with a crystal battery to make it build a larger cap for a flashlight.

hparikh111 months ago

what are the equipments to make this? can u give me the list?

tbudka1 year ago

My daughter and I made this circuit together on a breadboard. It worked well. We tried it with a vibrating motor from a cell-phone and found we needed to raise to turn-off voltage since the motor stopped spinning around 1.8V. You already had instructions for doing that on your nicely documented design. Thanks so much for this nice and well documented post.

TinkerJim (author)  tbudka1 year ago

It's so good to hear from a Father and daughter working together on a gadget like this ! Thank you for letting us know !!

baudeagle1 year ago

I was this article today on Reddit : http://www.ohgizmo.com/2010/01/09/ces2010-rca-airn... I think that with your Easter engine design combined the information found here: http://hight3ch.com/free-electricity-from-thin-air... this could make a nice home made cell phone charger. What do you think?

ZJ-Weaver1 year ago
Hi Tinker Jim. Awesome project. I'm working on a circuit to run nitinol SMA wires. A question: Does the power to the load flow from the solar panel or from the capacitor?
TinkerJim (author)  ZJ-Weaver1 year ago
The solar cell and the capacitor are connected in parallel, so when transistor QP turns on, both deliver power to the load. However, unless the solar cell is relatively large or in bright sunlight, most of the power driving the load will come from the capacitor.
Understood. Thank you for the reply!
Sassah1222 years ago
hi
ynze2 years ago
Hi TinkerJim,

Thanks a lot for this I'ble! I spent the last days building solar engines, and yours gave me the final push to start it. I tried your circuit first of course. Later I built the "original" Sun Eater I (and it turned out it was made by a fellow countryman of mine :-)).

When comparing, I find the Sun Eater more efficient ("lively") than your circuit, but has more components as a trade-off. Is that your finding too?

Anyways, thanks a lot for your very well documented I'ble!

Ynze
SunEater_I.gif
TinkerJim (author)  ynze2 years ago
Thank you for your comments on the Easter Solar Engine. I too made a SunEater and was very much pleased with it (in fact it was the inspiration for the Easter engine as mentioned in the Instructable) and it is still working daily on a windowsill!

As to your queries regarding "efficiency" and/or "liveliness", the two terms can take in quite a few different meanings. Efficiency would most precisely mean the ratio of energy delivered to the motor to the energy collected in the storage capacitor from the solar cell This is easy to quantify. But the word could also be used more loosely to refer to how short the operating cycle seems to be, that is, how frequently the device activates and goes through its on-off cycles. The word "lively" could also very well refer to this activation frequency. Or more simply,liveliness could mean the rapidity or strength of the way the motor snaps into action when it does turn on. These are quite different things, but we are apt to use the words "efficient" and "lively" for any or all of these characteristics in an interchangeable casual way.

The most important condition in attempting to make any sort of general comparative declaration, is that both circuits must be set up to have the same turn-on and turn-off voltages. Otherwise, the energy exchanges with the storage capacitor could be too different to draw any meaningful conclusions. This is most important because the energy stored in a capacitor is proportional to the square of the voltage across its terminals: Es = (1/2)• C • (V^2). Thus a small difference in voltage represents a much larger difference in energies.

Now if both solar engines are set up with the exact same turn-on and turn-off voltages, then they will be practically equally "lively". First, they will both collect solar energy for the same time before firing; this is because both circuits pass no current until the trigger strings conduct and turn on the first transistor. They will not run a load for exactly the same time, but if both have the same turn-off voltages, the difference will be small in typical applications. The difference arises precisely because the SunEater has a dual transistor output switch; these are set up as a complimentary pair which functions as a very high gain transistor. Hence, only a tiny current is needed to turn the pair on and they turn on hard (this could also be the "liveliness" you are impressed with). The single output transistor of the Easter Solar engine takes more current in the circuitry to turn a motor on (e.g. at 2.9V turn-on, the 3.3K resistor passes about 0.5mA into the base - note that this resistor can be increased to give a softer run to the motor, or decreased to give a more jolting or lively start).

Now, if the current draw of the output device for the two solar engines were the same and say constant, the SunEater would yield more on-time because less current is used in its circuitry to keep it on, making more available for the load to use up. But then on the other hand, the Easter Solar engine would go through its charge-run cycle more often than the SunEater!

Alas, the situation with a motor as the load is far more complicated! When a motor at rest is switched on from a voltage source, it takes a lot of instantaneous current, and then less and less as it gains speed. A capacitor is more than willing, eager in fact, to supply its energy at high current levels, so a lot of energy can be used up just in getting things moving. This would shorten the on-time.
Avasar100003 years ago
Can you provide some websites that stock the SIP's? Thank you!
TinkerJim (author)  Avasar100003 years ago
All the major electronics supply houses carry them, and I think many of the specialty and surplus electronics sellers do also.
BC-454 years ago
what kind of electronic can i find those kind of capacitors?
Most stuff have big enough caps to work in this.
Look for old VCRs, Tape players, ect.
The audio amps inside of these most of the time have big capacitors.
It looks like in the first picture he is using a super cap.
Just use any caps that say "1000uf" or bigger.
wildfire84 years ago
Where are some videos of these working?
TinkerJim (author)  wildfire84 years ago
I haven't made videos of these working.
Purple Guy4 years ago
As I am pretty much a beginner at electronics I was wondering:

Is their any way to make a more simple trigger which uses less components?
I want to be able to adapt it to suit my, simpler, needs and I don't really understand some of the circuit.

Thanks in advance to who-ever answers.
TinkerJim (author)  Purple Guy4 years ago
You can find a lot of straightforward information on various solar engine circuits at the following site:

http://library.solarbotics.net/circuits/se_t1.html

Thanks!
TinkerJim (author)  Purple Guy4 years ago
Also, the book I mentioned in the Easter Engine Instructable,

"Junkbots, Bugbots, & Bots on Wheels" by Dave Hrynkiw & Mark W. Tilden

is a very good one for beginners in Beam Technology.

Another good introductory book in more general robot making is

"Robot Building for Beginners" by David Cook.

And for a hands-on introduction to making electronics gadgets of all kinds, you couldn't do better than

"Make: Electronics" by Charles Platt.
Mudbud4 years ago
Wow this is great! I can't wait to build one of my own, won't be for a while though cause my allowance is only 5 bucks a month :/

I'm making a new ible based off this!
cool. I might try that with an earth battery also.
TinkerJim (author)  Computothought4 years ago
Earth batteries should be a suitable source from which an Easter Solar Engine could collect usable energy. You'll need enough earth batteries hooked in series to offer a voltage slightly higher than the turn-on voltage of the Easter engine.
Did some experiments and was surprised at the amount of voltage generated. A whole backyard of cells might be very interesting. Have to go get some resistors tomorrow and build the engine.
GreenD5 years ago
haha look at that old school led in pic #4.

Ok so, just in general what type of diodes can you use for this?? How do you figure out the voltage required for diodes?? Sorry I'm noob!
TinkerJim (author)  GreenD5 years ago
Instead of being thrown out as being too dim and unwanted, the old LEDs are quite happy to be put to work in trigger strings!

The very common small signal diode 1N914 are the ones I use.  They work fine for this low voltage low current application.
Let me start by saying this is gadget with so many uses it's amazing. I'm also a noob so I have to ask. How can I tell the voltage of a random LED I find in old electronics? What can of test can I do to an LED?
TinkerJim (author)  zer0_da_hero4 years ago
To test LEDs for Easter Engine use, I just make up the whole circuit first on a solderless breadboard. With a Volt meter hooked up to the storage capacitor, I just note when the engine circuit cycles on and off. If it's not what is wanted, I just plug in a different LED or two.
jensenr304 years ago
subscribed!! 5 star! great project, man!
TinkerJim (author)  jensenr304 years ago
Thanks !
such a nice job friend
your brain is holymoly
it is best
caret5 years ago
Hi! what program did you use to draw the board above??? Sorry my bad English  :D

Thanks in advance!!!
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