TinkerJim

Our Workmate 200 dates back to around 1994. When fully open, the jaw opening is 5-7/16”. When the sawbuck crosses are clamped tight, the jaws are 5-3/16” apart.Reducing the width of the crosspieces would do the trick for you, but it probably will not need a full 1” taken off. Try say 1/4” at first, or experiment on a few scraps. Alternately, you could trim 5/16” off of one of the Workmate jaws (assuming it will still close up) , or decrease the 85° angle a little.

Thank you, Bill ! You are very kind !!

Thank you so much for making this Instructablel! .Today, Palm Sunday 2017, as soon as we returned from Holy Mass, I opened up your Instructable and folded up five nice little palm crosses. May we all have a blessed Easter !

Clever design !

Спасибо ! Ваш комментарий очень ценится. С наилучшими пожеланиями.

Thanks !

Would you cast the base with the bearing pillar and fulcrum pedestals as one piece? That would make it easy to finish; just drill two holes - and a little filing of course. The flywheel would probably be an easy casting and have a healthy moment of inertia. Would you make the lever and links of wood?

Thank you for making this Instructable ! Very well done and informative !

Yikes!! Just hooking up a 6 Volt battery pack is a good way to overwhelm the solar engine, but not a way to “test” it. The essential purpose of the solar engine is defeated. Best test it with the solar cell you are going to use with it! A battery source could be used for some testing, but only if a resistor is put in series to limit the current to the approximate level that a little solar cell would give. With only 2200uF storage, try a 10K resistor so that the cap will charge slowly enough for you to watch its voltage via a high impedance voltmeter across the cap leads. You’ll be able to observe the behavior of the circuit as the turn-on and turn-off voltages are reached. And double-check your circuit to make doubly sure that the wiring is correct and that the pola...

Yikes!! Just hooking up a 6 Volt battery pack is a good way to overwhelm the solar engine, but not a way to “test” it. The essential purpose of the solar engine is defeated. Best test it with the solar cell you are going to use with it! A battery source could be used for some testing, but only if a resistor is put in series to limit the current to the approximate level that a little solar cell would give. With only 2200uF storage, try a 10K resistor so that the cap will charge slowly enough for you to watch its voltage via a high impedance voltmeter across the cap leads. You’ll be able to observe the behavior of the circuit as the turn-on and turn-off voltages are reached. And double-check your circuit to make doubly sure that the wiring is correct and that the polarities of all the components are respected. If you are still having problems, you can contact me by a PM .

Great project... great work...and a great video !!!