The more projects I make, the more I realize that my rickety old sawhorses are inadequate. I think that I am limited by the strength and sturdiness of these sawhorses and I feel like I am always compensating for them. Because these sawhorses are so unstable, I set out to make the most ideal and functional replacements I could.

Ideally, my new sawhorses would be extremely sturdy and collapsible. That way I could take it anywhere and easily put them out of the way in my small workshop. I have a reprint of a woodworking book from the 70's that showed a couple different designs for sawhorses. The one that interested me most was a 3 legged design that touted its sturdiness on uneven ground. My backyard is very uneven and I often have trouble setting up tables or my sawhorses. I reposition them again and again until they stop wobbling.

Unfortunately, the book only had a rough drawing of a 3-legged sawhorse. I looked around the internet but I didn't find any plans for a 3 legged sawhorse, so I had to design my own. I decided I wanted to make my design include knock-down legs, so they could be taken off for storage or transport. I used the following links as guides for the standard parts and adapted a traditional knock-down design to suit my needs.

Knock down Sawhorses
The Richard
Standard Knock-Down Sawhorse

Other designs
39 Free Sawhorse Plans

3 Legged Sawbench Design

Step 1: Design

Most sawhorses have the legs set out at 15º for stability. I decided to make the A-Frame legs splayed out 15º, and make that frame and the mono-leg splayed out 15º from each other. The idea was to make this as stable as it could be while still being a 3 legged sawhorse.

To get the length of the legs, you can use these equations or you can just use this calculator. I knew I wanted to make the sawhorse 30" tall, and I knew all 3 angles of the triangles (90º + 15º + 75º = 180º). For the single leg, I ran it through the calculator once and got a leg length of 31.05829"(31 1/16"). For the 2 legged end, I used that result and solved for the hypotenuse again which gave me 32.15391" (32 3/16). This number gives me the length of the compound mitered legs.

For a detailed blueprint, open the attached PDF.
<p>Thanks ProfMuggs! I got them done.</p>
<p>Sure glad I found this. I am looking for a set of legs for a very heavy Texas table my friend Cliff and I cut out of some 6' round table tops I found at auction real cheap. I think adding a foot or two of length should bring them up to &quot;bar&quot; height and still remain stable. <strong>And</strong> double as saw horses since I am tall.</p><p>The stability and knock-down ability are my two main considerations. I think you have saved my bacon!!! <em>When I get my &quot;roun-tuit&quot; </em>lined up I hope to post a photo or two. Thank you for taking the time for photos and write-up!!!</p>
<p>Thanks, I'm glad you like it. If you are looking for a particular height, I recommend using the triangle calculator I linked to on step 3. It makes everything a lot easier.</p>
<p>I bookmarked the calculator and will be using it shortly! Again, thanks.</p>
<p>The plan is great and so is the instructable. I will be making a pair of these this weekend. I do plan to screw a 2x4 across the top to add a clamping surface and a sacrificial strip for circular saw action :) Thanks !</p>
<p>Good idea! I have a few ideas for add-on pieces that could make these more useful, but unfortunately I haven't gotten to them. Please post pictures of your finished project?</p>
Great plans! I made a pretty rough slot in the 2x8 leg so I used a scrap piece to make a platform for the top piece, which doubled a carrying handle.
<p>Very nice! Sorry I missed this comment until now. Since I posted this I built a set for my friend and he was able to take them apart and fit them in the trunk of his car. I also moved and had to put them in storage for a while and the ability to take them apart really came in handy.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>Can someone enlighten me how to make the 15 degree cut on the mono leg with the coping saw. I am new to wood cutting, this is my first real project, so pardon my ignorance.</p><p>Thank you </p>
<p>I didn't go into enough detail there. I actually used a circular saw to cut down the grain but stopped short of the end so I didn't overrun the bottom of the cuts. I started the cut on the acute angled side to prevent overrunning the bottom on the other side as well. I used the coping saw to follow the cuts I already started and end cleanly on the marks on both sides of the board. I then turned the the corner with the coping saw and followed the bottom edge on a15 degree bevel. I used a tool like a sliding T bevel to compare the angle I was cutting to a reference as I went. <br><br>I hope that helps. </p>
<p>Thank You! Yes it did help.</p><p>This project seems to be the most challenging among all, I learnt a lot when trying, still a long way to go. The pics you posted are really awesome and thanks for the detailed reply.</p><p>Do you have any other interesting plans for me to follow, do you have a blog that i could use?</p><p>Thanks again</p>
<p>Good work, I invite you to watch this video, Greetings <a href="http://goo.gl/tB1yvm" rel="nofollow">http://goo.gl/tB1yvm</a></p><p><a href="http://goo.gl/wKA6u1" rel="nofollow">http://goo.gl/wKA6u1</a></p>
Great design. One thing comes to my mind- why not make few more holes on the single leg- that way will be lighter to carry and wont lose lots of strength!
Excellent instructable. Decided I needed a set of saw horses, so this was a perfect first project for my budding wood hobby. Super sturdy, and though mine aren't as nice as yours, they are actually sort of nice looking for saw horses.
Thanks a lot. Do you have any pics you can post?
This is great! Thanks for posting the blueprint for this. I love little home projects like this. I've been on the lookout to buy some <a href="http://www.rosenzweiglumber.com" rel="nofollow">bamboo in NY</a> for a side project I'm doing. Bamboo probabaly isn't the greatest for a sawhorse, but that's not what I'm going to build with it. Thanks for this!
I really like this style of saw horse. Thank you for posting it. I did have one idea, have a 2x4 laying flat screwed onto the top of the horizontal piece to use as a sacrificial board so you don't have to remake the cross piece.
Good design. I tended to use plywood gussets on the legs to avoid splitting of 2X bracing. I also found nails have more lateral resiliency than self-threading screws (screws would break occasionally). That being said- I regularly loaded 'horses' of this design with 1500# of lumber...I don't necessarily recommend this practice! (it was production expediency and we took risks a sane person would not)
Intelligent, simple (and, actually kinda nice looking!).......great project here!!
Very nice, thumbs up
Excellent idea. I'm going to make a couple.
pretty good i bet you wish you had had a saw horse for this project though. ;)
Favourited, Voted, Five Stars, etc. An excellent project.
Hey Jim,<br>You got my vote...<br>Trade...<br>Thanks for the kind comments!
Thank you. The three-legged design makes the sawhorse stable, even if the ground surface below rolls. This would be especially helpful when used on a lawn.
It would do, unlike a four legged one, or a table. You KNOW they're always going to have one leg adrift and start rocking.<br><br>For stacking them could you not switch them end for end so that the single leg falls between the double legs?
I'm sure it's a fine tool for sawing, but I can see possibilities beyond such mundane &quot;work-a-day&quot; uses. It seems like an eminently stable and useful structure for all kinds of furniture. Thank you for posting it.

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