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First off, I need to thank my wife for being patient with me as I transformed our apartment into an utter mess of cardboard pieces, stinking it up with burning glue and paint and long hours of me talking and obsessing over the smallest details of this costume. She is truly a champion and is worthy of a whole new level of praise for putting up with this. I’d also like to thank dannyeurena. Because he posted his method of building his costume, I was able to save so much time and expand on the ideas he presented. Thanks!

This year I wanted to making a really sick costume. I'm an artist and I wanted to push myself. I also didn't want to spend a lot of money on it either. After days of pondering what I wanted to be, I decided on Soundwave—not the latest crumpled soda can Soundwave from the Bay movies, the original toy/cartoon one. Hands down he was my favorite toy. He had a rocket launcher and came with his own army of minions. This robot was upper management. After some research of various depictions, and fabrications, I began building.
 
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Step 1: Materials

The following list are materials that I used:

Building supplies
  • Cardboard (thick) Make sure it is rigid
  • Cardboard (thin)
  • Chipboard
  • 2” Packaging tube
  • Paper towel tube
  • (1) Metal ruler
  • (1) Triangle ruler
  • (1) Large matte knife with 6 blades
  • (1) Small x-acto knife with about 25 blades
  • (1) Pair of scissors
  • (1) Medium sized cutting board
  • (1) small tape measure
  • (1) Glue gun with (24) glue sticks (This is a MUST!)
  • Bandaids when you burn yourself with the glue gun
Painting supplies
  • (6) Rolls of packaging tape
  • (1) Roll of blue masking tape
  • (1) Construction helmet
  • (1) Can of spray primer
  • (1) Can of house paint (white)
  • (1) Can of spray glue
  • (2) Cans of blue spray paint
  • (2) Cans of silver spray paint
  • Various color acrylic paints (cheaper the better; blue, yellow, red, white, black, silver, gold)
  • Package of various sized brushes
  • Masking paper
Misc.
  • (1) Cheap pair of shoes (or use your own they won’t be damaged)
  • (1) Backpack (won’t be damaged)
  • (1) Gumball container
  • (1) Reading light
  • (2) Glow sticks
  • (1) Yard of black stretchy fabric
  • (1) 1” strip of galvanized steel
  • (1) roll of adhesive cork
  • (1) Translucent yellow folder
  • Velcro (about a yard of it)
  • (3) yards of 1” nylon straps
  • Elastic waistband
  • (1) pair of hockey gloves
  • (1) small sheet of framing plexi (used to replace glass)
  • Access to print services that can print on 11x17 paper
  • Pop rivet gun with 1/8 rivets
  • (1) sheet of 1” vinyl letters
  • (7) plastic easter eggs

Step 2: Legs

For this part, I made a dummy leg so that I could adjust it and modify until I got it the way I wanted them. I walked around, I sat and made sure I could spend some time in them comfortably. Then I took that mold, cut it apart and used it as a die to make the legs I was going to use for the costume. This is where I used the various rulers to take measurements and to make sure all my right angles were spot on. To make corner bends in the cardboard, first cut the top layer with an x-acto knife, then use a pen and push the tip into the cut to roll the edges, fold and done.

Now that I have the legs built, I started to add in the little details such as the paper towel roll, peeling the first layer of cardboard to make vents, and using some of the plexi to make lights that will be lit by glowsticks. See Step 3

Once all the details are painted, I added the vinyl letters.

Step 3: Leg Lights

I wanted to make lights on this costume because I’m stupid for details. For the REC/BATT light, I took a small gumball container and a reading light I had. Combined with the red top of a seasoning container, I made a red battery powered fake LED light. For the light in the side-skirts of the legs, I made a removable tray that I can load with a glowstick. It’s not the greatest lighting effect, but it gets the job done and it’s cheap.

Step 4: Feet

Picture of Feet
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feet_03.jpg
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These were pretty easy. Looked at the shape and cut them out. Used the cardboard tubes on the sides to keep the legs from dragging on the ground. Also they make a perfect pivot point for the ankles, and since it’s not closed on the other end, I can tilt my ankles with no problems. To reinforce them, the outside of the foot has the hole cut into it. There is another piece of cardboard on the inside that keeps it from moving further in and reinforces the foot. With reinforcement from the glue gun, they are not going anywhere. I also took foam and closed off the spare space around a shoe that I can easily slip on and off with little difficulty.

Step 5: Arms & Hands

Not everything goes to plan. The first version I built was more for movement at the expense looks. It was a detached shoulder that after testing out, would look horrible. So with the help of dannyeurena and his Optimus Prime costume, attaching the shoulders to the body was the way to go. I rebuilt the arms with a new hinge that is less visible—one made of 1 inch galvanized steel that is pop riveted together. The sheet metal forms a “Z” so that it locks into the arm and forearm and is pop riveted into the cardboard with a washer. Painting was the same. For the extenders that pop the hands out on the outside of the forearm, I used more of the peeled off cardboard technique. For the hands, I bought a pair of used hockey gloves off Ebay.

Step 6: Missile Launcher

Picture of Missile Launcher
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I cut out six inch circles and wrapped them in chipboard. You can get chipboard at any print shop. (it’s the same stuff on the back of notepads) I glued seven plastic easter eggs tops on the front and painted to cover up the seams. Because my shoulders are not nearly as wide as the toy, I had to angle out the arm that connects the missile launcher to the body and make a support block that rests over the right shoulder.

Step 7: Body (Lower)

Picture of Body (Lower)
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I first sketched out the design of the body. I needed it to telescope so that I could have more maneuverability. Once I flushed out all my ideas, I built the lower torso and designed the upper around it. For the lower torso, I started to add in the details such as the buttons and the hips. I also fashioned it with suspender style straps and can move up and down freely from the body. The backside of it also slides up and down independently so that I can sit down comfortably and stand without my backside exposed.

Step 8: Upper Legs

Picture of Upper Legs
legs_upper_01a.jpg
legs_upper_01b.jpg
legs_upper_02.jpg
Upper legs are pretty simple. I cut them to shape, and on the inside, sewed stretchy fabric so that they can adjust to my legs, whether bent or straight. To get the fabric attached to the cardboard, I sewed it to the front then to a strip of cardboard that was glue gunned to the inside of the back of the leg. To wear them, I slide my leg in and they have an adjustable velcro strap that attaches to a belt to stay in place.

Step 9: Head

Picture of Head
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head_02.jpg
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I took a construction helmet and started adding on details. This is where I use the thinner cardboard. The first attempt I didn’t like how high I angled the crown. I was too focused on keeping it small and tight to my face, that I overlooked the crown. I later went back and adjusted it to my liking. Additionally, I added in more details like the circles on the crown (chipboard) and the vents. Once primed and painted, I cut a translucent yellow folder for my visor and some painted details for the finishing touches.

Step 10: Body (Upper) & Shoulders

I had a difficult time getting into the body, period. I know that the shoulders attached would make it even more problematic. I designed the shoulders to slide into place through a channel to make getting into the body easier. Additionally, I put a channel in the chest piece so that I could slide a plexiglass sheet with the picture of a tape on it, much like a picture frame. For me, it didn’t look the way I wanted it to. So I cut the chest piece back about an inch and a half, and decided to cut the whole body into two pieces making it easier to get on and off. I also incorporated a backpack to help keep the body from moving around on me since wearing it, it would constantly slide back To keep the two halves together, the channel made by the shoulder pieces served to keep the costume closed. I also made four velcro tabs on the inside so that it could sandwich together. Additionally, the missile launcher also helps to keep the two halves together. The costume has a storage compartment in the back for the backpack to hide in, since I didn’t want to destroy it. Once painted, I printed out the tape graphic and spray glued it to the chest. The logo was spray glued to the inside of the plexi.

Step 11: Painting methods

Picture of Painting methods
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I tried all sorts of methods to cover the seams of the cardboard. I tried spray glue and wrapping paper to cover seams, sanding the packaging tape seams, but none of these methods worked right. What I found to work and be reasonably fast was to first cover all the edges in packaging tape. Then use the spray primer on the tape. Once this is dry, use house paint to help conceal the edges of the tape. The paint gives it a texture that helps to conceal it. I used a standard paint roller to give it an even texture. I gave it two coats. Once all of these are dry, I applied a base coat of blue, and let that dry. Then I applied the silver. Afterwards, I used the masking tape and acrylic paints to add in all the decal effects. To save money, I cut the blue masking tape into little strips with my x-acto and ruler, since for stenciling, you don’t need that much. the less the better. It’s less likely to pull up and of your other painted details.

Step 12: Cooling

Picture of Cooling
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Of all the cardboard costumes I've seen, very few people address just how hot it can get wearing one of these. Cardboard is an excellent insulator. This can work in your favor or against you. To make it work for you, finding a way to keep the temperature inside the costume cool is crucial, and not as hard as it might seem. A little goes a long way. To keep the temperature inside manageable, I used chemical ice packs. They not only get instantly cool, but you can avoid the condensation mess, and because you are in a insulated box, the cooler temperatures go a long way. In addition to the chemical ice packs, I have two personal battery fans that are fastened with velcro on the inside of the costume. The cold air from the ice pack would get recirculated into the costume through the fans. The ice pack cost $4, and I got the fans from Amazon.com for $12 a piece.
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XReyRey made it!4 days ago
Thank you so much for your pics and for sharing all of this. I made this costume, with a few changes, in two weeks! LOL I decided to make it for a 4th of July Parade, for my local convention group in Texas, and I found this page two weeks before the deadline. There's no way I could've done this without your post here. THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I'm still adding little things as I go along. But the backpack idea works Great to put a water bag to drink. I'm also learning as I go on how to make it last longer and make it tougher. I took it to my first ever convention at Tokyo in Tulsa, and I loved people's reaction to it. Especially grown men Fangirling over it! LOL You FREAKING ROCK!!
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Incrxtc (author)  XReyRey3 days ago

Wow, that turned out awesome! Nicely done! I love the nod to Guardians of the Galaxy.

Here's a video of me at the Convention. Start it at the 7:30 mark. https://youtu.be/Ubw2lUlMkVE
Thanks! Very few people caught that. LOL
Marieki20001 month ago
Any way you think you could alter instructions to make for a 4 year old? How long did it take?
Yes please need instructions for my 12 year old

Incrxtc (author)  makinbakinpancakes6 days ago
It would be similar instructions. You'll just need to scale it down. If you look through the pictures in this comment thread, you'll see the final pics of the other member that did it. You can use those as a reference to go by.
Incrxtc (author)  Marieki20001 month ago
It could be scaled to fit multiple sizes. There is another member who scaled it down to fit his son. The pics are in the comment thread. Depending on the amount of detail, it could take anywhere from teo weeks to a month. Mine for all the detail, took a month, but elimate the trial and error, I could have did it in three weeks.

Awesome job!!!

The only thing you can add to the costume is

make lazerbeak that sticks to your left shoulder.

That'll be really unique

Incrxtc (author)  jediknight4ever10 months ago
And if I can find two small children, I could make them into Rumble and Frenzy!

If you have a greyhound you could make ravage too!

sjohnson10110 months ago
Your costume is just amazing!!! My son has been a robot every year for Halloween. In our town, 12 is the oldest you can trick or treat. Our costumes in the past have been big...but this year we want to go ALL OUT!!! This costume is awesome and our skill level. do you have any measurements or blue prints you could share? James is big for his age. He is 5'11". If you have any to share....hopefully they'd be close in size.
Shannan
Incrxtc (author)  sjohnson10110 months ago

Thank you for the kind words. How I was able to get the measurements right for me was to tape a business card on my shirt and take a full body photo. With that, I laid a piece to tracing paper over it and began to roughly sketch out the shapes of the costume. To get the measurements, you use the business card for scale. So if the business card is 3.5" wide and on your printout it's .75" The scale would be 4.6667 (3.5/.75=4.6667). So if the drawn shape was say 4" wide, you could determine that it would be 18.6668" to be full scale. (4X4.6667=18.6668). I hope this helps you out. Let me know if there are any other questions you have and good luck with the costume!

Hi there your costume is absolutely amazing. I started constructing one myself based on yours. I deviated from it and started putting my own spin on it. I am entering into a cosplay competition and I hope you don't mind. I hope I have made it different enough from yours. Thanks

Incrxtc (author)  Ericthedog21 year ago

Thank you for the kind words. No worries at all. I shared it so everyone could enjoy it. Good luck on the competition, I'm sure you'll do great. Post a pic, I'd love to see it!

My take on your costume. I didn't win sadly.

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Incrxtc (author)  Ericthedog211 months ago

Aww. Well I hope you had a fun experience building it. It came out great.

Indeed I did. It has given me lots of pointers for my next suit. Gonna try wheeljack from transformers prime.

AARENAARON1 year ago

Absolutely Superb..amazing..tremendous..congrats

trev5020001 year ago
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321392951951&globalID=EBAY-GB
Incrxtc (author)  trev5020001 year ago
HAHA, too funny. It looks like Danny's set up.

Keeping strong buddy. Just finished c2e2 with 8 suits done. I'm pretty sure my Transformers crew and I are retiring the costumes. It was a great run, but onto new skies.

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Incrxtc (author)  SpicyPandaCreations1 year ago

That is such an awesome pic. Well done. I thought making one was a challenge. You were crazy enough to do eight! So what's the plan for next year?

well, we're looking into just using the transformers suits for events, like something for kids or a St. Jude's hospital visit. Might be a little challenging with how big we are lol. I am wanting to make a full details suit out of eva foam.. I'm kinda leaning towards Azrael batman myself. But who knows where the year will take us. what about you anything in the works? if you haven't yet, check out my site "spicypandacreations" on FB for more current projects. I just use instructables for .. well.. instructions lol

Incrxtc (author)  SpicyPandaCreations1 year ago

That's a great way to get the most out of those costumes. I'm sure the kids will love them. Liked, and following your page on fb. I've got a lot of side projects that I've started, but can't seem to find the drive to complete them. I wove 15 pounds of chainmail for a knight's costume that's waiting to be finished, and I'm seriously considering making some cardboard samurai armor for a Box Wars event in SF. Well see. I can't wait to see what you got lined up for the future.

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Devastator, Jazz, and Shrapnel not pictured

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Incrxtc (author)  SpicyPandaCreations1 year ago

Wow, that came out great. I can't believe you did it in such a short time frame. Your collection of Transformers keep growing. How are they holding up with all the use?

ha. we have 8 transformers now. i seems like each time we use them, they need a new paint job. lots of scuffs that happen from walking around. We ended up joining this band and dancing on stage, so alot of things ripped off and repairs need to be made prior to c2e2 on the 26th. Im trying to make a blaster carrying case that can play music for us.. How about your suit? do you get alot of scuffs? the thing that we are all having a hard time is the heat, especially our heads. Does your suit get insanely hot?

Incrxtc (author)  SpicyPandaCreations1 year ago

Mine will have the paint chip off when I used it. I sprayed some clear coat to help it become a little studier. I totally feel you on the heat. It's very hot to wear and I use chemical ice packs to help with that. The best way to deal with the heat on the helmets would be to build in vents to help circulate out the heat. It would actually work with the nature of the designs.

SpicyPandaCreations made it!1 year ago

made it just in time. Used some of your model and added some of my flare. Thanks for a great foundation to work off of for all my transformers. gonna see if i can make some adjustments for a convention late april. maybe gonna try and make laserbeak

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hey sir, so i am building a soundwave costume now and trying desperately to get it done in 2 weeks. Im using your tutorial as a template and will make some adjustments to give it a more personal feel. can you share with me how you mounted the shoulder canon please??

Incrxtc (author)  SpicyPandaCreations1 year ago
Awesome! The cannon had slots that slid into the shoulder. There was also a piece added to the missile launcher that helped stabilize it.

hmmm.. slots you say.. ok, i guess the only way to see it is to dive right in lol. ill keep you informed and post a pic when im done with it in 2 weeks. remember when i gave you the link to the transforming laser beak? i may not be able to do it within the time frame, but im gonna see if i can put it in someday. so gonna leave at least a 3-4 inch cavity in the chest. Thanks again sir!

Incrxtc (author)  SpicyPandaCreations1 year ago
That will be awesome if you can pull it off. On the pic of the missile launcher, you can see the tabs. It's just an extended piece of cardboard that slides into the body.

COOL OVERLOAD.

Raktageno1 year ago
This is absolutely the most amazing thing ever! I will be making one soon. I'm thinking Fastlane or Windcharger.
Lexagonal1 year ago
This is amazing oh ma' lord. I am dumbstruck by how amazing this is. Do you think it would work for the other transformers from TF prime, personally I'm not a G1 kind of person, like if I used a similar method and material?
Incrxtc (author)  Lexagonal1 year ago
You could use the material for TF Prime. It would be more work because they have more curved surfaces, but cardboard it pretty durable, and once you paint it, it hides the seams pretty well.
bwoolard1 year ago
Dude that is so sick. Where did you get the patterns. I want to make a suit
Incrxtc (author)  bwoolard1 year ago
No patterns, made it all from scratch.
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