So... why do you want to swap?
1) the 01m automatic transmission is junk... and at $4500 used, it's expensive junk
2) the 02j 5 speed is not junk, and at $600-$1000 used, you can save a lot of money converting.
3) The automatic TDI only gets about 35 MPG real world, where the manual is capable of delivering a prius challenging 50 MPG.
4) It's the "green" thing to do...
5) Your automatic transmission just died... and you want to save some money, and get better economy to boot.

This is my first instructable, Thanks to everyone who voted for me in the Epilog Challenge! I don't think I'm going to win, but hey it's not a bad try!

Who is this for?
This instructable is for owners of any Mk4 VW Golf/Jetta/Beetle... a.k.a. 1998-2006 beetle, 1999.5-2005 jetta, and 1999.5-2005 Golf. This one is specifically from a 2001 Beetle TDI ith occasional shots from a 2003 Jetta TDI. It's for the budget conscious, or for the green, or for those who want a little more power.

Notable DIfferences
The automatic has a different:
Coolant pipe
Power steering line
Injection Pump
Transmission Computer (the manual doesn't have any wires, other than the speed sensor and the reverse switch)
Transmission (Duh!)
Shift Linkage (Duh!)
Clutch Pedal... not there (Duh!)
Wiring Harness (Duh!)
Park Neutral Relay

Since there are all of these differences, we're not going to use the transmission, transmission computer, axles, Starter, chunks of the wiring harness, park neutral relay, and probably a bunch of other stuff that was left out just because we're a bit lazy, or didn't take that photo... We're going to adapt the existing harness for clutch cancel, cruise, and reverse switch later on... we're also going to adapt one of the brackets from the automatic wiring harness to support the power steering line.

What we need
"53" relay (horn relay)
Red 3M crimp butt connectors
Reverse switch (should come with the transmission)
Clutch Switches (there are two on the clutch pedal, make sure you get the two brackets)
Shift Linkage, complete with shift boot and shift knob, there are two boot types, so it might take two tries before you've got it right
Clutch Pedal
Transmission from a TDI (if yours is a 2.0 or 1.8T, try to get one from a TDI, it's got better gear ratios)
Manual Transmission Starter (the automatic one won't work)
Manual Transmission Axles
Dust Tins from the Engine (it's between the transmission and engine, and comes with two pieces)
All of the nuts and bolts that were removed from the junkyard
New Stuff Needed:
1x New Clutch (might as well throw in a G60/VR6 from www.dieselgeek.com or www.boraparts.com )
1x Dieselgeek.com sigma5 short shifter (the OEM shifter won't clear the power steering line).
2x Nuts for the wheel end of the Axles, these are one time use only!
12x Bolts for the manual transmission end of the axles, these are also one time use only
1x bottle of blue threadlocker
2x Vertical bolts for the transmission mount (again, stretch bolts!)
2L VW Gear Lube for the 02j transmission
Yes, you will need a LOT of tools for this job
Special Tools:
VAG-COM from www.ross-tech.com
M8, M10, M12 Triple Square bits
Clutch Alignment Tool (might come in the clutch kit)
Transmission Jack (will make it MUCH easier than bench pressing the puppy in and out!)
Continuity meter (normal VOM will work)
30mm 12 point socket

Good Luck, and try to keep up!

Step 1: Prepare for the swap! Remove (almost) EVERYTHING!

First things first, don't try this unless you've got a flat area, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some help!

Loosen the front lug nuts (they're acutally bolts, so remember DON'T REMOVE THE BOLTS!!!)
Jack the car up, support it, and chock the wheels
remove both front tires

Have someone step on the brakes while you complete the following:
Remove the 30mm 12 point nuts holding on the axles to the wheel hubs.
Remove the M10 or M12 bolts holding the axles to the transmission

Start removing the axles:
Remove the 16mm bolt from the front of the A arm to the sway bar, and move it out of the way
Use a Three arm puller (or axle shaft removal tool) to push the axle out of the hub, then turn the wheel one way or the other to remove both axles.

Remove the transmission:
Go under the car, on the back of the automatic transmission dust tin is a plastic cover, remove the cover
Rotate the engine to remove the three 15mm nuts from the torque converter
Remove the battery, tray, and air box
Remove all wiring harnesses from the automatic transmission
Remove the Power Steering line from the automatic transmission mount
Remove the shift linkage using a pry bar
Unplug the Transmission cooler hoses and use a 5/8" coolant hose coupler.
Remove the Starter
Remove both upper bolts from the top of the transmission
Support the engine with an engine support
Remove the two Transmission mount bolts (18mm bolts)
Remove the lower transmission mount, this can be a pain, but it will help facilitate the removal of the transmission greatly.
Rotate the engine and transmission slightly forward using a screwjack between the engine and the subframe (the car comes with one in the trunk.. A.K.A "The Widowmaker Jack")
Place transmission Jack under transmission
Remove the four lower transmission bolts
Remove transmission (yeah, I make it sound easy!)

Prep the block!
Remove the flexplate and the dust tins on the engine... an impact would be nice here, or have someone counterhold the engine on the other side... this should be a 17 or 18mm 12 point socket.

Remove the Shift linkage:
Remove three bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo
Remove two 13mm bolts holding it to a cross member
Loosen two 17mm nuts holding a pipe clamp in place.
Slide pipe clamp to the rear of the car (sometimes this requires a hammer)
Remove the downpipe from the car
Remove the Front Heat Sheild from the bottom of the car to expose the Shifter assembly.
Remove the two bolts from the shifter assembly
Go back into the inside of the car
Remove the console, see your manual it's a bit complicated... We've got most of it in photos below... but your mileage may vary!
Remove ash tray
Remove cigarette lighter assembly
Remove Metal cross brace
Remove the Shifter handle by putting the car into neutral, then pull the thumb lever out, then yank the whole thing off HARD.
Remove the metal cover
Remove the plastic PRND321 cover by snapping it off
Remove the shifter trim slider by snapping it off
Remove the two wiring harnesses
Remove the Shift Lock Solenoid wire
Remove the two 13mm nuts, and the shifter should drop out

Now for the rest of the removal story...
I have an 00 VW Golf 2.0L with an automatic transmission that just crapped out. I want to do the auto to 5 speed swap. I found a donor car which is a 1999 VW Golf 2.0L with the same body style. I believe it's a 1999.5 model since it matches my body style. Is there anything different that I need to do from your steps? I heard the shifter is crap in teh 1999.5 Golf. I am not a 100% sure on getting the wiring done right but I need to attempt this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.<br><br>Thanks
<p>Hi guys,</p><p>what would happend if I do not programe the computer after the trans swap? I have no VAG-com.</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>i did my auto to manual swap but my auto did have a vss on the back like my manual tran can u help me to connect my vss it has three wires brown, white/blue and a black/white wires</p>
It should just plug in. If the connector is different, just use the connector from the automatic transmission
<p>my auto tranny only have two plug ins one is the range switch which i use for the reveres switch and the other is a big round plug with alot of wires</p><p>the pic below is like the tranny i had an can i drive the car with the auto ecu untill i get my manual ecu </p>
<p>If I have an 02 auto Tdi Jetta with a bad auto trans can I swap a manual trans in it from a 98 Tdi jetta, along with all the associated parts? The cars are the same body style but I see that there are some differences between the years. Thanks!</p>
I am currently working on a auto to manual swap. Using a 02J out of a 02 Jetta with a 1.8T and putting it in a 03 Jetta with a 1.8T with a 09A. Was wondering if someone could help me with how to get the bellhousing bolts out of the 09A. Having trouble getting socket/ratchet between valve body and trans. Having trouble getting the 2 bolts at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions
<p>quick question? i have a 2001 jetta 1.8t 5 speed manual,,,,,,</p><p>WILL A MK4 TDI STARTER FIT ON THE 1.8T? </p><p>I would like to run tdi starter for higher torque to fire the gas engine.... </p><p>no one seems to have a solid answer on vortex and it looks same to me. </p><p>help me out so i can order one! ps. good write up, thanks</p>
It should work just fine, TDI people have been using 1.8T starters for the longest time if they need something in a pinch.
<p>did the trans swap on 02 Jetta (diesel version) swap went well ,,,did relay re-wire swap ,,,car starts fine ,,problem is cannot get engine to come above curb idol,,2500 rpm...what am I missing ? thanks</p>
<p>did you ever figure it out our 03 has a very similar problem</p>
<p>what are your symptoms?</p>
<p>we purchased a body damaged tdi 5sp complete for the swap (drivable complete motor and trany swap 2002 ,190 Kms,our 03 wagon (tdi auto) now lack of power at 1800 sputters ,and a hard time to get to 100 kms per hr ,we changed the etc or ecu from the damaged car and put it in the wagon but it starts and shuts off instantly,put the old one back in and it runs again ! MAYBE should I try the wrecked cars ecm AND the wrecked cars CLUSTER (gauges) ???</p>
<p>the key, cluster, and ecu are all interconnected, it's called an immobilizer. </p><p>have you tried to change the fuel filter? you'll need to prime the system again, but inability to rev in a diesel is fuel limited, there may be other problems as well, but again it's not the swap that would have caused the issue. </p><p>might try sending me a message instead of posting it on the discussion, since it's no longer a problem with the transmission swap. </p>
<p>my email is myleseb@telus.net </p>
<p>Never had that problem... maybe you have the wiring going to the wrong pin in the ECU?</p><p>What codes do you have?</p>
<p>Hello,we completed a 5speed swap from our 02 tdi to 03 tdi wagon,the problem we have is no power,it's like it's in limp mode ,rums and starts great but 1800 rpm no power (I can walk faster ) </p>
I'd check your vacuum lines, occasionally, by moving the engine around to getting the transmissions in and out it will pull on the vacuum lines. <br><br>it's usually the line that goes to the anti-shutter valve behind the intake leading into the main lines behind the small coolant line
<p>we cut the cat out on the exhaust, no change , changed the turbo last nite, no change very frus</p>
<p>It's not going to be a part of the swap why it's not revving past 1800 RPM, what codes are in the system? and did you check your vacuum lines? also have you tried to unplug your MAF?</p>
<p>the car starts up great,at 1800 rpm,its like a misfire,flutter,sputter,I don't no what to call it,unplug the maf(I tried 3 ),then it has a bit more power.took it to 3 tecks,new turbo, cut the cat out,vac lines good and pressure is good still no change </p>
<p>I am doing this swap. The donor is a 2000 5 speed TDI, The good car is a 2004 TDI Auto. I am not seeing how to hook up the Speed sensor???</p><p>Is this write up not going to work for the swap to a 2004??? Everything is installed, and I'm ready to wire and what not...</p>
check out:<br>http://dspauto.com/node/33<br><br>this instructable is for an ALH version only. yours is a BEW.<br><br>The reverse, and starter wiring is the same, just the cruise control and A23 bus is different.
<p>Is there a way of getting a hold of you in real time? Like text or facebook? </p><p>The link you sent, does it go into the wiring detail for the alh like yours does on here?<br></p>
<p>the link goes to my web page, but it does have wiring instructions like on here. the web page has my phone number</p>
<p>Hi Alphaseinor,</p><p>I'm in the process of doing this auto to manual swap, just had a few questions regarding it.</p><p>Here is what I have currently:</p><p>-My car is a 2001 VW Jetta 2.0 automatic 01M</p><p>-I have a 02J manual trans/gearbox/shift cables/ECM/axles pretty much all of the nuts bolts from a 2001 Jetta 1.8T donor car. </p><p>My questions are:</p><p>-Can I use the 2001 1.8T manual ECM for my car? Or would I need a 2.0 manual ECM?</p><p>-Is it NECESSARY to use the donor 1.8T manual ECM? </p><p>-I can still use my original cluster?</p><p>-Is your wiring for the relay/clutch pedal/TCM/ECM etc. similar to a 2001 2.0 even if I use a the manual ECM? I know you did this on a TDI. </p><p>I do have VAG-COM and could access a Bentley if need be. The mechanical part I can do, just the wiring is the scary part. Please let me know, thanks for your time! </p>
<p>you need a manual 2.0 ECU and the immobilizer key for both cars</p><p>You can still use the original cluster</p><p>the wiring is the same for starter and the reverse lights, but cruise control is different </p><p>The cruise pin will be listed in the bentley manual, and it will likely need a new run from the pedal to the ECU. </p>
I just bought a 2001 Jetta TDI with a bad automatic tranny in it. Planned on swapping the motor from it into another jetta TDI with a manual tranny I have that has a blown motor. do you think a conversion to manual is less work than a motor swap?
<p>Auto to Manual is a lot less work</p>
The reverse lights, and starter section are the same, the cruise is (mostly) different. I'll need some time to write up a wiring instructable for a 1.8T jetta.<br><br>You will also need an ecu and some way of programming the immobilizer on the manual ecu.
I have a 2003 vw gti with a 1.8t and 09A (eyp). I located a 2000 Jetta VR6 with a 5speed. Will that 5speed work with my 1.8t?
<p>You need to have a 1.8T, 2.0l, or TDI transmission to fit it. </p><p>The 1.8T if you use something out of a 2.0 or a TDI will need to be tuned to let the cruise control work correctly, you'll also need the computer from a manual, and the immobilizer code for the ECU and your instrument cluster. </p><p>The cruise control is different between the TDI and the 1.8T, and if yours was a 5 speed you'll need to wire up the speed sensor, and A23 bus as well.</p>
Please do the instructable for 1.8t for all us non diesels geeks it would make youre instructable more complete .....maybe you will be famous some day?
<p>I'm already famous :) </p><p>The 1.8T and VR6 swaps are very similar, but the 1.8T is harder because you need to deal with immobilizer issues. </p>
<p>Hi Alphaseinor. </p><p>i&acute;ve follow your posts on the vw forums. i&acute;m looking for some help. </p><p>i have a jetta 1.8 turbo swaped from tiptronic 09a to manual 02j, and i can&acute;t make my speedometer works! i&acute;ve followed the next steps:</p><p><strong><br></strong></p><div><strong><br><div><div><div>So you deff have a different ECU P/N then I originally Had, but I'm still willing to bet that yours is not recodable at all, as is evident to what you said. That you go to recode it, but it doesn't take. I had the same exact thing...<br><br>As for the VSS... It really wasn't all that hard once I understood what I was looking at in the wiring diagrams..<br><br>Pin 1 goes to Power<br>Pin 2 goes to Signal to the Speedo<br>Pin 3 goes to ground (trace #43 is ground)<br><br><br><br>For Pin 2, Snip off the wire at Pin #: 56 at your TCU connector. spice this into Pin #2 of the VSS. DONE!!! (this effectively runs the wire from Pin 2 of the VSS to the Speedo Signal Input (pin 28 of the blue connector for the cluster) <br><br>=========================================<br>NOW, youe Speedo and Odom will work, BUT... Once tyou get your ECU sorted out, you will still get a CEL that you VSS is implausible. Your ECU 'knows' the car is moving, but cant read at what speed... you need to snip another wire from the TCU connector (Pin #63) and get it connected to the signal output for the speedo (pin # 3 blue connector, cluster)<br><br>there is an intermediate connection between this and the cluster connector. If you can manager to tie in here, that is pry best. I was not able to so I ran the wire through the firewall just behind the cluster. If you pull off the black cover to the right of the windshield washer motor, you can see where the wires route through... (the line A27 goes to Pin #3 of the blue Cluster connector)<br><br><br><br><br>..and for good mesure here is the diagram for the Cruse control... Looks like we need to run the +12V to Pin #: 39 of our ECU.</div>maybe i&acute;ve making something bad, please help!!</div></div></strong></div>
Hi I have 2003 Volkswagen Jetta 118 that I did a manual swap on it everything works fine I just cannot figure out how to get my speed sensor hooked up I have two wires coming out of my speed sensor off a donor vehicle one is blue one is red with something won't where do I hook him up and please give me a little bit more information on how to do it thanks in advance
The ECU is different on the gassers, you'll need to swap ECUs, so you'll need to be able to get the PIN from each ECU and do the proper adaptation using the VCDS. <br><br>Speedo should work if you have it wired like in the bentley manual for a manual 1.8T. The instructions here are for a TDI, but since it's basically the same thing... it should work on a 1.8T. do you have a good ground and +12 to the VSS, and do you have continuity between pin 2 and the instrument cluster?<br><br>There is also an a27 bus you'll need to wire up like in the bentley, just look for a circle with an a27 inside of it, follow the line between the diagram pages and you'll see where it connects to from the ECU to the instrument cluster, this is different between the 1.8T, VR6, and PD TDI models.
<p>Thanks for answer mr!!</p><p>first: well...i&acute;ve reading about the ecu swap and the use of the vcds(vagcom to make the adaptation and vagtacho for get the pin code) so i think there&acute;s no problem whit it. in fact i have a video from ross tech making the procedure.</p><p>second: for my test i connect the vss pin#1 and pin#3 directly to the battery, but there&acute;s no continuity between pin#2 of the vss and the cluster. previously i get a wire from the pin#3 and the pin#28 of the blue connector from the cluster, but i don&acute;t know if i&acute;ll need them again.</p><p>third: i found the line of the a27 bus in the bentley and finish in t32/3, (i think so is the cluster blue connector.)</p><p>My question is: what is the next step?</p><p>thanks!!</p>
My dad is getting a complete 1.8T car for parts and I am wanting to swap my auto TDI to manual using the 1.8T's trans. My Bentley manual says the ratios are different but I honestly dont mind. Is there going to be a problem trying to mate them together? Such as input shaft bushing/bearing, bellhousing differences, etc?
No it will mate up, you can keep the automatic axles as they are the 108mm the 1.8t manual uses. <br><br>Wiring will be the same as listed on tdiclub forums or on dspauto.com... the beetle wiring is a little different than the jetta/golf<br><br>You likely will be pushing 3500 RPM at highway speeds... You might look into getting a .612 5th gear. you can have close ratio gears 1-4 and a tall 5th.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=258297<br><br>this is the best writeup of the hammer mod
<p>I have a 2001 gas/Manual doaner car that I have taken the Eng. Trans, Wiring harness and ECM out of and put them in a 2000 that had an Auto in it. I don't have the TCM and harness. I installed the clutch pedal and have the switch for it and the 53 Replay but have the auto brake pedal and 4 wire switch still in the car. What wiring do I need to do? I'm so confused....</p>
the ECM will need to be programmed or it will not be able to start, you'll need to find someone who can do a VCDS readaptation of the instrument cluster to allow the ECU to start. This is much harder than just keeping the ECU that came with the automatic and converting it to a manual coding, however both require a VCDS (vag-com) cable. <br><br>The instructable only covers converting the automatic harness to the manual harness, therefore I'll need to completely write up a new instructable for this, or append this instructable for the scenario you have listed... by swapping the harness and the ECU you have complicated the swap at least by a measure of 6-10 hours, possibly more. It will be easier if you just follow the instructable, convert it back to an automatic harness and go from there.
<p>I have the instrument cluster from the Manual car, but I'm guessing I would have to use the dash harness from that car too for it to work.</p>
<p>No, but there is no need to use the manual dash, I think you are thinking too hard on how to finish the project. if you follow the instructable it will be working correctly without having to pull everything apart, it's only a few small cuts on the existing harness, then splice in 3 connectors, install a wire in the ECU and you are basically done. The way you are doing it adds hours upon hours of labor.</p>
<p>That's me! I over think everything... but then I don't have access to a VCDS either. </p><p>I get what your trying to tell me though. </p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>I have 2 2000 VW Beetles 1.9TDI. One is automatic and the other is 5 speed. I have put the 5 speed in the automatic car and changed complete wire harness and the ECM. Will I have to change the injector pump?</p>
that's a lot of work! modifying the wiring harness from the automatic would have been easier... only takes me about 2 hours for everything. Swapping the entire harness takes days.<br><br>The injection pump from the automatic is actually a better pump for performance reasons, it's called an 11mm pump, and you'll need to do the &quot;hammer mod&quot; to it if it idles rough or has a slowdown shutter.
It does have a slowdown shutter. How do I do the hammer mod?
Im trying to find the correct left side transmission (EBJ coded) mount. I think the part number is 1J0 199 117P but i want to be sure before I order it. Can you confirm this for me? <br>I'm almost complete with &quot;The Swap&quot;!!! :-)<br>Thanks, <br>Rod

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