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So... why do you want to swap?
1) the 01m automatic transmission is junk... and at $4500 used, it's expensive junk
2) the 02j 5 speed is not junk, and at $600-$1000 used, you can save a lot of money converting.
3) The automatic TDI only gets about 35 MPG real world, where the manual is capable of delivering a prius challenging 50 MPG.
4) It's the "green" thing to do...
5) Your automatic transmission just died... and you want to save some money, and get better economy to boot.

This is my first instructable, Thanks to everyone who voted for me in the Epilog Challenge! I don't think I'm going to win, but hey it's not a bad try!

Who is this for?
This instructable is for owners of any Mk4 VW Golf/Jetta/Beetle... a.k.a. 1998-2006 beetle, 1999.5-2005 jetta, and 1999.5-2005 Golf. This one is specifically from a 2001 Beetle TDI ith occasional shots from a 2003 Jetta TDI. It's for the budget conscious, or for the green, or for those who want a little more power.

Notable DIfferences
The automatic has a different:
Coolant pipe
Power steering line
Injection Pump
Axles
Transmission Computer (the manual doesn't have any wires, other than the speed sensor and the reverse switch)
Transmission (Duh!)
Shift Linkage (Duh!)
Clutch Pedal... not there (Duh!)
Starter
Wiring Harness (Duh!)
Park Neutral Relay

Since there are all of these differences, we're not going to use the transmission, transmission computer, axles, Starter, chunks of the wiring harness, park neutral relay, and probably a bunch of other stuff that was left out just because we're a bit lazy, or didn't take that photo... We're going to adapt the existing harness for clutch cancel, cruise, and reverse switch later on... we're also going to adapt one of the brackets from the automatic wiring harness to support the power steering line.

What we need
Electrical:
"53" relay (horn relay)
Red 3M crimp butt connectors
Reverse switch (should come with the transmission)
Clutch Switches (there are two on the clutch pedal, make sure you get the two brackets)
Mechanical:
Shift Linkage, complete with shift boot and shift knob, there are two boot types, so it might take two tries before you've got it right
Clutch Pedal
Transmission from a TDI (if yours is a 2.0 or 1.8T, try to get one from a TDI, it's got better gear ratios)
Manual Transmission Starter (the automatic one won't work)
Manual Transmission Axles
Dust Tins from the Engine (it's between the transmission and engine, and comes with two pieces)
All of the nuts and bolts that were removed from the junkyard
New Stuff Needed:
1x New Clutch (might as well throw in a G60/VR6 from www.dieselgeek.com or www.boraparts.com )
1x Dieselgeek.com sigma5 short shifter (the OEM shifter won't clear the power steering line).
2x Nuts for the wheel end of the Axles, these are one time use only!
12x Bolts for the manual transmission end of the axles, these are also one time use only
1x bottle of blue threadlocker
2x Vertical bolts for the transmission mount (again, stretch bolts!)
2L VW Gear Lube for the 02j transmission
Tools:
Yes, you will need a LOT of tools for this job
Special Tools:
VAG-COM from www.ross-tech.com
M8, M10, M12 Triple Square bits
Clutch Alignment Tool (might come in the clutch kit)
Transmission Jack (will make it MUCH easier than bench pressing the puppy in and out!)
Continuity meter (normal VOM will work)
30mm 12 point socket

Good Luck, and try to keep up!

Step 1: Prepare for the swap! Remove (almost) EVERYTHING!

First things first, don't try this unless you've got a flat area, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some help!

Preperation:
Loosen the front lug nuts (they're acutally bolts, so remember DON'T REMOVE THE BOLTS!!!)
Jack the car up, support it, and chock the wheels
remove both front tires

Have someone step on the brakes while you complete the following:
Remove the 30mm 12 point nuts holding on the axles to the wheel hubs.
Remove the M10 or M12 bolts holding the axles to the transmission

Start removing the axles:
Remove the 16mm bolt from the front of the A arm to the sway bar, and move it out of the way
Use a Three arm puller (or axle shaft removal tool) to push the axle out of the hub, then turn the wheel one way or the other to remove both axles.

Remove the transmission:
Go under the car, on the back of the automatic transmission dust tin is a plastic cover, remove the cover
Rotate the engine to remove the three 15mm nuts from the torque converter
Remove the battery, tray, and air box
Remove all wiring harnesses from the automatic transmission
Remove the Power Steering line from the automatic transmission mount
Remove the shift linkage using a pry bar
Unplug the Transmission cooler hoses and use a 5/8" coolant hose coupler.
Remove the Starter
Remove both upper bolts from the top of the transmission
Support the engine with an engine support
Remove the two Transmission mount bolts (18mm bolts)
Remove the lower transmission mount, this can be a pain, but it will help facilitate the removal of the transmission greatly.
Rotate the engine and transmission slightly forward using a screwjack between the engine and the subframe (the car comes with one in the trunk.. A.K.A "The Widowmaker Jack")
Place transmission Jack under transmission
Remove the four lower transmission bolts
Remove transmission (yeah, I make it sound easy!)

Prep the block!
Remove the flexplate and the dust tins on the engine... an impact would be nice here, or have someone counterhold the engine on the other side... this should be a 17 or 18mm 12 point socket.

Remove the Shift linkage:
Remove three bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo
Remove two 13mm bolts holding it to a cross member
Loosen two 17mm nuts holding a pipe clamp in place.
Slide pipe clamp to the rear of the car (sometimes this requires a hammer)
Remove the downpipe from the car
Remove the Front Heat Sheild from the bottom of the car to expose the Shifter assembly.
Remove the two bolts from the shifter assembly
Go back into the inside of the car
Beetle:
Remove the console, see your manual it's a bit complicated... We've got most of it in photos below... but your mileage may vary!
Golf/Jetta:
Remove ash tray
Remove cigarette lighter assembly
Remove Metal cross brace
Remove the Shifter handle by putting the car into neutral, then pull the thumb lever out, then yank the whole thing off HARD.
Remove the metal cover
Remove the plastic PRND321 cover by snapping it off
Remove the shifter trim slider by snapping it off
Remove the two wiring harnesses
Remove the Shift Lock Solenoid wire
Remove the two 13mm nuts, and the shifter should drop out

Now for the rest of the removal story...
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=258297<br><br>this is the best writeup of the hammer mod
<p>I have a 2001 gas/Manual doaner car that I have taken the Eng. Trans, Wiring harness and ECM out of and put them in a 2000 that had an Auto in it. I don't have the TCM and harness. I installed the clutch pedal and have the switch for it and the 53 Replay but have the auto brake pedal and 4 wire switch still in the car. What wiring do I need to do? I'm so confused....</p>
the ECM will need to be programmed or it will not be able to start, you'll need to find someone who can do a VCDS readaptation of the instrument cluster to allow the ECU to start. This is much harder than just keeping the ECU that came with the automatic and converting it to a manual coding, however both require a VCDS (vag-com) cable. <br><br>The instructable only covers converting the automatic harness to the manual harness, therefore I'll need to completely write up a new instructable for this, or append this instructable for the scenario you have listed... by swapping the harness and the ECU you have complicated the swap at least by a measure of 6-10 hours, possibly more. It will be easier if you just follow the instructable, convert it back to an automatic harness and go from there.
<p>I have the instrument cluster from the Manual car, but I'm guessing I would have to use the dash harness from that car too for it to work.</p>
<p>No, but there is no need to use the manual dash, I think you are thinking too hard on how to finish the project. if you follow the instructable it will be working correctly without having to pull everything apart, it's only a few small cuts on the existing harness, then splice in 3 connectors, install a wire in the ECU and you are basically done. The way you are doing it adds hours upon hours of labor.</p>
<p>That's me! I over think everything... but then I don't have access to a VCDS either. </p><p>I get what your trying to tell me though. </p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>I have 2 2000 VW Beetles 1.9TDI. One is automatic and the other is 5 speed. I have put the 5 speed in the automatic car and changed complete wire harness and the ECM. Will I have to change the injector pump?</p>
that's a lot of work! modifying the wiring harness from the automatic would have been easier... only takes me about 2 hours for everything. Swapping the entire harness takes days.<br><br>The injection pump from the automatic is actually a better pump for performance reasons, it's called an 11mm pump, and you'll need to do the &quot;hammer mod&quot; to it if it idles rough or has a slowdown shutter.
It does have a slowdown shutter. How do I do the hammer mod?
<p>Hi Alphaseinor. </p><p>i&acute;ve follow your posts on the vw forums. i&acute;m looking for some help. </p><p>i have a jetta 1.8 turbo swaped from tiptronic 09a to manual 02j, and i can&acute;t make my speedometer works! i&acute;ve followed the next steps:</p><p><strong><br></strong></p><div><strong><br><div><div><div>So you deff have a different ECU P/N then I originally Had, but I'm still willing to bet that yours is not recodable at all, as is evident to what you said. That you go to recode it, but it doesn't take. I had the same exact thing...<br><br>As for the VSS... It really wasn't all that hard once I understood what I was looking at in the wiring diagrams..<br><br>Pin 1 goes to Power<br>Pin 2 goes to Signal to the Speedo<br>Pin 3 goes to ground (trace #43 is ground)<br><br><br><br>For Pin 2, Snip off the wire at Pin #: 56 at your TCU connector. spice this into Pin #2 of the VSS. DONE!!! (this effectively runs the wire from Pin 2 of the VSS to the Speedo Signal Input (pin 28 of the blue connector for the cluster) <br><br>=========================================<br>NOW, youe Speedo and Odom will work, BUT... Once tyou get your ECU sorted out, you will still get a CEL that you VSS is implausible. Your ECU 'knows' the car is moving, but cant read at what speed... you need to snip another wire from the TCU connector (Pin #63) and get it connected to the signal output for the speedo (pin # 3 blue connector, cluster)<br><br>there is an intermediate connection between this and the cluster connector. If you can manager to tie in here, that is pry best. I was not able to so I ran the wire through the firewall just behind the cluster. If you pull off the black cover to the right of the windshield washer motor, you can see where the wires route through... (the line A27 goes to Pin #3 of the blue Cluster connector)<br><br><br><br><br>..and for good mesure here is the diagram for the Cruse control... Looks like we need to run the +12V to Pin #: 39 of our ECU.</div>maybe i&acute;ve making something bad, please help!!</div></div></strong></div>
The ECU is different on the gassers, you'll need to swap ECUs, so you'll need to be able to get the PIN from each ECU and do the proper adaptation using the VCDS. <br><br>Speedo should work if you have it wired like in the bentley manual for a manual 1.8T. The instructions here are for a TDI, but since it's basically the same thing... it should work on a 1.8T. do you have a good ground and +12 to the VSS, and do you have continuity between pin 2 and the instrument cluster?<br><br>There is also an a27 bus you'll need to wire up like in the bentley, just look for a circle with an a27 inside of it, follow the line between the diagram pages and you'll see where it connects to from the ECU to the instrument cluster, this is different between the 1.8T, VR6, and PD TDI models.
<p>Thanks for answer mr!!</p><p>first: well...i&acute;ve reading about the ecu swap and the use of the vcds(vagcom to make the adaptation and vagtacho for get the pin code) so i think there&acute;s no problem whit it. in fact i have a video from ross tech making the procedure.</p><p>second: for my test i connect the vss pin#1 and pin#3 directly to the battery, but there&acute;s no continuity between pin#2 of the vss and the cluster. previously i get a wire from the pin#3 and the pin#28 of the blue connector from the cluster, but i don&acute;t know if i&acute;ll need them again.</p><p>third: i found the line of the a27 bus in the bentley and finish in t32/3, (i think so is the cluster blue connector.)</p><p>My question is: what is the next step?</p><p>thanks!!</p>
Im trying to find the correct left side transmission (EBJ coded) mount. I think the part number is 1J0 199 117P but i want to be sure before I order it. Can you confirm this for me? <br>I'm almost complete with &quot;The Swap&quot;!!! :-)<br>Thanks, <br>Rod
<p>i have a 2003 1.8t gti and was wondering if anyone knew how the wiring goes. i have a manual ecu immob defeated. im guessing the 53 relay doesnt apply to my car. any help will be appreciated.</p>
<p>53 relay is for the starter, You will need one. </p><p>I take it you have the 175 relay... if so, you need a 53 in there, and you can at least get it started with the starter cancel instructions... the only other wiring that is the same is the reverse lights, the rest is totally different for wiring. </p><p>You'll also need to change the ECU for a manual transmission one. since it's immo3 you'll need to get the PIN for both ECUs, or get someone to reflash a manual tune over the existing ECU. </p>
Congratulations on writing the article; but you forgot to mention one very important time saving to your readers. It is not necessary to rewire anything to get the cruise to work. Simply wire up the VSS, (install clutch safety switch and cruise cancel switch) and then recode the ECU. Take the car for a drive and test the cruise - it should work fine.
So, you state there is no need to rewire the cruise, but you mention connecting the cruise cancel switch... confused... but that's rewiring. <br><br>Which car do you have? Not sure if you are a troll...<br><br>If you have an ALH like the instructable is written for, then you have a 4 speed automatic, which already has the VSS prewired, no changes are needed
like your instructible. very thorough and informative.
<p>I have an 03 Jetta vr6 that has the 5 speed tiptronic trains its out of the car and I was kicking around the idea of making it manual is this process about the same for my car.</p>
Yes, except the bellhousing on the VR6 is different than one for a TDI, 1.8T, or 2.0T, so you must have a transmission from a VR6.<br><br>Also the ECU and wiring is different for the VR6 on the cruise side, I'd recommend getting a bentley manual for you car if you attempt to do the wiring. You'll need to get the PIN from the ECU and the PIN from the instrument cluster so you can swap it, and of course a VCDS so you can change the PIN in the instrument cluster.
<p>Hi! i made the swap from a 09a to 02j 5 speed in a 2004 jetta 1.8 turbo. and i have problem with the vss... somebody can make it works?? i drive mi car but my cluster always stays in 0km. please help</p>
<p>i seem to be stuck att the part where you remove pin 19 and put it into pin 44. my yellow/red wire on the tcm doesnt appear to have continuity with anything on the ecu. should i justt follow what the instructions say and remove it anyways?</p>
<p>which engine are you working with, also what year?</p>
<p>its a 1998 beetle. had the 01m i believe and we put a 5 speed standard from a 2002 jetta not the deisel but the gas engine.</p>
<p>The gas engine will need to have the ECU replaced with another manual version of the gas ECU. The wiring is not in any way similar from the diesel where cruise control is concerned. I'll need to consult my manual to figure out what wires go where. 1998 is rare to have an automatic, so finding a manual ECU should be easy.</p>
<p>so if I replace the ecu completely and connect the red/yellow wire to the other wire on the tcm that should make my rmps stop rising when I shift</p>
<p>No. There is nothing you can use from the instructable for the cruise control, ignore all of the instructions, nothing is correct there as it's only for TDI engines</p><p>The 1998, you'll need to connect the brake pedal switch pin #4 to pin #47 in the ECU wiring, this may or may not already be there, check continuity between them, if it does not then the paragraph below is for you.</p><p>According to the wiring diagrams I have here, it should be a red wire with a black tracer, it should be a 1.0mm wire (kinda small), this goes to the plenum connector which is black, pin #4, unless you have a very early version in which case it is the blue connector pin #6,this then leads to pin #47</p><p>The clutch pedal is wired in series with pin#3 on the brake switch, it should be a white/yellow wire, which has continuity with pin #48 on the ECU (by that time it switches color to white/red).</p><p>So it would go:</p><p>Brake switch pin #3 --&gt; one side of the bottom clutch pedal switch --&gt; other side of the clutch pedal switch --&gt; wire that was brake switch pin #3 --&gt; ECU pin 48</p><p>This is powered by either fuse s5 (one of the 7.5a fuses) or S243 (a 10A fuse)</p><p>at least according to my diagrams...</p>
<p>hello I am swapping over on a 1998 beetle. We bought a program called VAG-K and it didn't work. I don't want to spend money on another one that might not work. Is there a specific disk I need that won't cost 600 dollars? And is there a difference between VAG-K and VAG-COM?</p>
No idea what VAG-K is... if you check on the TDI Club forums you might be able to find someone who can help for $20 or so. They are a friendly bunch, so they are willing to help. <br><br>I didn't know the 1998 beetle TDI came with an automatic, so you are a first for me.
Hi, I did the swap on my 2001 vw jetta vr6. all is working fine but only one thing seems to be weird. when I shiffting, pressing the clutch pedal down the RPMs raises up. it looks like that I don't know how to shift gears. :-) rpms go up on every shifting gear. <br>I never hook up the cruise control and clutch cancel switch. It could be this problem? <br>Thanks for any help.
Hey man not sure if u figured this out yet, but for anyone reading this, yes you need to wire the cruise control clutch switch for the weird revving when shifting to go away.
<p>I'm converting my 2005 Golf TDI, I've progressed to the part where I need to modify the wiring at the TCM and ECM for cruise control but I can't figure out which pins I'm supposed to modify. There's no pin at 19 on the ECM connector. My car had the 09A transmission (which had lost reverse) if that helps.</p><p>Also, if anyone with a TDI is considering doing this swap, avoid getting a DQY coded transmission if you can. It uses the old style shifter, reverse switch, and speed sensor.</p>
Your car is nothing like this instructable. None of the wiring is the same at all (with the exception of the starter, and reverse light wiring), even the automatic transmission uses different connectors, and doesn't have a VSS, I have a quick and dirty (no photos) wiring for the 5 speed automatic to manual swap at my webpage. It's not an easy wiring job, most people seem to get it hired out.<br>http://dspauto.com/node/33
<p>Well I'm in too deep now, thank you for <br>responding. I've actually found that page you linked through my <br>research, I didn't realize that you were the writer of that as well.</p><p>Luckily I've only gone so far as to do the wiring for the starter and back up <br>lights. I have time to do this right, I just have to figure out how to read the Bentley manual. Now I know to look for the 94 pin connector and not the 80 pin on the diagrams.</p>
<p>The BEW engine in your car should have a 94 pin connector. I don't know what to say as I haven't seen any other wiring for a PD engine. Maybe it's a regional thing, are you in the USA?</p><p>Yeah, the 1999.5 transmission is not as desirable as the 2000-2005 Mk4 manuals. </p>
<p>Yea I'm in the USA, the car was manufactured in Brazil. Everything is making sense now that I'm looking at the 94 pin connector.</p>
I was hoping for a little more clarity. For example, &quot;Cut the Green/Black wire from the backside of the 175 socket (should be pin 5, or the one directly in the middle of the socket) and connect it to the blue or black clutch pedal switch (the bottom one)&quot;. It does not specify if the wire is being connected from the harness side or the relay side. Does anyone know and could they clarify the other connections as well? Thanks so much.
You are misreading, because there is only one side to the green black wire after you cut it and it is the harness side.
if i cut the wire, there would be two wires, one that leads to the relay socket, and one that leads back to the harness. that was my confusion. once i got into the wiring, it was not difficult and these instructions were very helpful. i just wanted to fully understand what i was doing before ever looking under the dash and i was confused. it seems the best approach is to just start doing it and to double check that everything is correct before connecting the battery and starting the car. Also, when connecting the cruise wires at the tcu, be very careful as there are two yellow/red wires. i followed these instructions almost to the letter (starter interlock override) and have a working car with working cruise. i hope i did not confuse anyone and cleared up a couple of things i was confused on. thank you for all the help, this writeup made the job so much easier and i knew what i was getting into. i will be sure to browse the tdiclub forums and other writeups and share as much knowledge about this swap or other related projects as i can. the more everyone talks, the more everyone knows.
<p>If you'll notice there are only four pins on the 53 relay, all are on the &quot;edges&quot;, the only edge pin we need is the blue and black wire. the other five wires (center and corner wires) could technically be cut at the relay connector, leaving only harness leads. </p>
The green and black wire is cut out of the connector side, this is only used for power on the cruise switch on the clutch pedal.<br><br>The blue with black wire needs to be cut with a little length at the connector side for the starter cancel switch on the clutch pedal.<br><br>
Hello alphasenior, I have done a swap from auto to manual transmission on my Jetta 1.8T 2003, I have done all the wiring jo, removed TCU, installed starter cancel switch (the white switch from clutch pedal to relay 53), connected rear lights, speed sensor, etc but I want to have wired up the cruise control to make it functional, at this time blue switch from clutch is not wired up. I have used the existing auto ECU and car run fine at this moment, my doubt is if I can make functional the cruise control with the automatic ECU or if I really need to change to standard ECU to get cruise control feature. According my wiing diagram (from mitchell on demand software) one wire from blue switch need 12V (ignition signal) and the other one need to be landed on terminal 39 of ECM, could you help me to complete this last task please.
Please reference your Bentley manual for actual pin-outs, and wire colors as these vary by year/model, also make sure to check for continuity on all items.<br><br>Connect Reverse lights<br>Cut the transmission range connector off of the wiring harness this is the connector on the back of the transmission near the ABS pump.<br>Use the Black/Green wire to one side of the reverse switch <br>Continuity check the Yellow/Blue or Grey/Red wire from the 175 relay socket to the matching color on the Transmission range switch wiring.<br>Cut this wire at the 175 socket<br>Cut the Black/Blue wire with enough wire to spare a butt connection later for the clutch cancel switch and connect side that leads into the harness to the yellow/blue or the grey/red wire in the previous steps. This is a standard butt connection that connects the reverse switch to the reverse lights. Heat shrink this connection<br>Connect the transmission range side of the Yellow/Blue or Grey/Red to the other side of the reverse switch. Heat shrink these connections<br><br>Connect Clutch Cancel Switch<br>Cut the brown wire at the 175 relay and connect it to the Grey or White clutch pedal switch (on the top bracket)<br>Connect the other wire from the switch to the Black/Blue wire you cut for the reverse lights in the above underlined and bold step.<br><br>Connect Cruise<br>Cut the Green/Black wire from the backside of the 175 socket (should be pin 5, or the one directly in the middle of the socket) and connect it to the blue or black clutch pedal switch (the bottom one)<br>Cut the Grey/Red (yellow/green on 2000+ vehicles, should be Pin 9)<br>Check for continuity on the Grey/Red or Yellow/Green wires in the TCU connector to the grey/red or yellow/green on the 175 socket<br>Connect the Grey/Red or Yellow/Green wire on the 175 socket to the other side of the blue or black clutch pedal switch<br>Remove the TCU from the car<br>Pull apart the TCU connector<br>Disconnect the ECU harness and pull apart the large connector<br>There will be a yellow/red wire that has continuity with pin 19 in the ECU large connector. Cut this wire at the TCU<br>Connect the Yellow/Red wire in the TCU to the Grey/Red or Yellow/Green wire in the TCU.<br>Move the wire from ECU pin 19 to pin 66 (98 and 99 beetles are pin 44 so verify the connector pin in your bentley before doing this).<br>Heat shrink the Butt connectors.<br>Wrap the unused connectors in Gaffers tape or other harness tape. (You may also cut the unused harness out of the loom).<br>Reassemble the relay panel<br>Place a 53 relay into the modified socket.
You really should list what each pin is for on these relays, switches and connectors. For those that don't have the same year model cars it would be easier for us to look at our corresponding diagrams and fine the pin related to the specific wire.
updated the wiring description to clarify any ambiguities...
My speedometer is not working now either, it was working even after I did the swap and I am not sure what happened. What are the possibilities?
<p>if it's from a 2003 and older, there are no changes, however if it's from a 2004 and newer you'll need to make a VSS sensor connection to the instrument cluster, and an a27 bus between the instrument cluster and the ECU</p>
hay whats up my man i followed all of ur steps of converting my 2002 vw gti to a 5 speed that i got from 2003 vw jetta 1.8T same engine code. everything went ok and the car starts and drive but i still have to do the reverse light and the cruise control which im not worry about. my biggest problem that ive might missed is that my abs light is and the also the traction control too i have a code in the ecm for a abs vehicle speed sensor which i replaced already and didnt fix it. also using the vac in the abs control module there is a code for abs not communicating. sorry if u mentioned it and i missed it any idea what should i do next please help
<p>The 1.8T will need to have it's ABS module reprogrammed via a Ross-Tech VCDS cable. also you will need an ECU from a manual transmission car.</p>
What did you do with the extra wiring from the automatic? Remove it or tuck it away somewhere?