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So... why do you want to swap?
1) the 01m automatic transmission is junk... and at $4500 used, it's expensive junk
2) the 02j 5 speed is not junk, and at $600-$1000 used, you can save a lot of money converting.
3) The automatic TDI only gets about 35 MPG real world, where the manual is capable of delivering a prius challenging 50 MPG.
4) It's the "green" thing to do...
5) Your automatic transmission just died... and you want to save some money, and get better economy to boot.

This is my first instructable, Thanks to everyone who voted for me in the Epilog Challenge! I don't think I'm going to win, but hey it's not a bad try!

Who is this for?
This instructable is for owners of any Mk4 VW Golf/Jetta/Beetle... a.k.a. 1998-2006 beetle, 1999.5-2005 jetta, and 1999.5-2005 Golf. This one is specifically from a 2001 Beetle TDI ith occasional shots from a 2003 Jetta TDI. It's for the budget conscious, or for the green, or for those who want a little more power.

Notable DIfferences
The automatic has a different:
Coolant pipe
Power steering line
Injection Pump
Axles
Transmission Computer (the manual doesn't have any wires, other than the speed sensor and the reverse switch)
Transmission (Duh!)
Shift Linkage (Duh!)
Clutch Pedal... not there (Duh!)
Starter
Wiring Harness (Duh!)
Park Neutral Relay

Since there are all of these differences, we're not going to use the transmission, transmission computer, axles, Starter, chunks of the wiring harness, park neutral relay, and probably a bunch of other stuff that was left out just because we're a bit lazy, or didn't take that photo... We're going to adapt the existing harness for clutch cancel, cruise, and reverse switch later on... we're also going to adapt one of the brackets from the automatic wiring harness to support the power steering line.

What we need
Electrical:
"53" relay (horn relay)
Red 3M crimp butt connectors
Reverse switch (should come with the transmission)
Clutch Switches (there are two on the clutch pedal, make sure you get the two brackets)
Mechanical:
Shift Linkage, complete with shift boot and shift knob, there are two boot types, so it might take two tries before you've got it right
Clutch Pedal
Transmission from a TDI (if yours is a 2.0 or 1.8T, try to get one from a TDI, it's got better gear ratios)
Manual Transmission Starter (the automatic one won't work)
Manual Transmission Axles
Dust Tins from the Engine (it's between the transmission and engine, and comes with two pieces)
All of the nuts and bolts that were removed from the junkyard
New Stuff Needed:
1x New Clutch (might as well throw in a G60/VR6 from www.dieselgeek.com or www.boraparts.com )
1x Dieselgeek.com sigma5 short shifter (the OEM shifter won't clear the power steering line).
2x Nuts for the wheel end of the Axles, these are one time use only!
12x Bolts for the manual transmission end of the axles, these are also one time use only
1x bottle of blue threadlocker
2x Vertical bolts for the transmission mount (again, stretch bolts!)
2L VW Gear Lube for the 02j transmission
Tools:
Yes, you will need a LOT of tools for this job
Special Tools:
VAG-COM from www.ross-tech.com
M8, M10, M12 Triple Square bits
Clutch Alignment Tool (might come in the clutch kit)
Transmission Jack (will make it MUCH easier than bench pressing the puppy in and out!)
Continuity meter (normal VOM will work)
30mm 12 point socket

Good Luck, and try to keep up!

Step 1: Prepare for the Swap! Remove (almost) EVERYTHING!

First things first, don't try this unless you've got a flat area, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some help!

Preperation:
Loosen the front lug nuts (they're acutally bolts, so remember DON'T REMOVE THE BOLTS!!!)
Jack the car up, support it, and chock the wheels
remove both front tires

Have someone step on the brakes while you complete the following:
Remove the 30mm 12 point nuts holding on the axles to the wheel hubs.
Remove the M10 or M12 bolts holding the axles to the transmission

Start removing the axles:
Remove the 16mm bolt from the front of the A arm to the sway bar, and move it out of the way
Use a Three arm puller (or axle shaft removal tool) to push the axle out of the hub, then turn the wheel one way or the other to remove both axles.

Remove the transmission:
Go under the car, on the back of the automatic transmission dust tin is a plastic cover, remove the cover
Rotate the engine to remove the three 15mm nuts from the torque converter
Remove the battery, tray, and air box
Remove all wiring harnesses from the automatic transmission
Remove the Power Steering line from the automatic transmission mount
Remove the shift linkage using a pry bar
Unplug the Transmission cooler hoses and use a 5/8" coolant hose coupler.
Remove the Starter
Remove both upper bolts from the top of the transmission
Support the engine with an engine support
Remove the two Transmission mount bolts (18mm bolts)
Remove the lower transmission mount, this can be a pain, but it will help facilitate the removal of the transmission greatly.
Rotate the engine and transmission slightly forward using a screwjack between the engine and the subframe (the car comes with one in the trunk.. A.K.A "The Widowmaker Jack")
Place transmission Jack under transmission
Remove the four lower transmission bolts
Remove transmission (yeah, I make it sound easy!)

Prep the block!
Remove the flexplate and the dust tins on the engine... an impact would be nice here, or have someone counterhold the engine on the other side... this should be a 17 or 18mm 12 point socket.

Remove the Shift linkage:
Remove three bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo
Remove two 13mm bolts holding it to a cross member
Loosen two 17mm nuts holding a pipe clamp in place.
Slide pipe clamp to the rear of the car (sometimes this requires a hammer)
Remove the downpipe from the car
Remove the Front Heat Sheild from the bottom of the car to expose the Shifter assembly.
Remove the two bolts from the shifter assembly
Go back into the inside of the car
Beetle:
Remove the console, see your manual it's a bit complicated... We've got most of it in photos below... but your mileage may vary!
Golf/Jetta:
Remove ash tray
Remove cigarette lighter assembly
Remove Metal cross brace
Remove the Shifter handle by putting the car into neutral, then pull the thumb lever out, then yank the whole thing off HARD.
Remove the metal cover
Remove the plastic PRND321 cover by snapping it off
Remove the shifter trim slider by snapping it off
Remove the two wiring harnesses
Remove the Shift Lock Solenoid wire
Remove the two 13mm nuts, and the shifter should drop out

Now for the rest of the removal story...
I am currently working on a auto to manual swap. Using a 02J out of a 02 Jetta with a 1.8T and putting it in a 03 Jetta with a 1.8T with a 09A. Was wondering if someone could help me with how to get the bellhousing bolts out of the 09A. Having trouble getting socket/ratchet between valve body and trans. Having trouble getting the 2 bolts at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions
<p>You can get a set of triple square tools, then cut them down a bit. use a wrench on them to get the bolts out. </p>
<p>If I have an 02 auto Tdi Jetta with a bad auto trans can I swap a manual trans in it from a 98 Tdi jetta, along with all the associated parts? The cars are the same body style but I see that there are some differences between the years. Thanks!</p>
<p>a 98 jetta (at least here in the USA) is a MK3, it won't work in a 2002 because that's a mk4. pretty much everything would be different, from the axles down to the shifter and pedal assembly. wiring would be completely different between the two cars as they share almost nothing. I think the starter might work. </p>
<p>Hi guys,</p><p>what would happend if I do not programe the computer after the trans swap? I have no VAG-com.</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>assuming it's a TDI, you'd have a check engine light for the automatic transmission computer, missing. no cruise cancel on the clutch pedal, and I'm sure there would be some hanging idle issues as well. </p>
I have an 00 VW Golf 2.0L with an automatic transmission that just crapped out. I want to do the auto to 5 speed swap. I found a donor car which is a 1999 VW Golf 2.0L with the same body style. I believe it's a 1999.5 model since it matches my body style. Is there anything different that I need to do from your steps? I heard the shifter is crap in teh 1999.5 Golf. I am not a 100% sure on getting the wiring done right but I need to attempt this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.<br><br>Thanks
<p>It probably won't work, you should go with one from a 2000, and you'll still need to swap the ecu out, since it's a 2.0, not a TDI. the wiring will likely be different for the cruise control, and there are like 3 different ECUs with 3 different engines in 2000, so you'll need to figure out which ECU to run. </p>
Ok so just for my piece of mind. I don't need the ecu nor cluster?
<p>assuming it's a 1999-2003 TDI, that's correct. </p>
I have 2004 gti 1.8t with automatic transmission 09A i change 02j manual 5 speed but speedometer not funcion i need help thanks
<p>You need to wire up the speedo, again this instructable is for the TDI only, which is a totally different animal. </p>
<p>I paid a shop to do this swap now no speedo ..Any ideas on the plug difference also my driver door will not look and alarm will not set since this swap..</p>
which car is it? there are a lot of different transmission options, some of which need much more wiring than what is on this page. <br><br>As for the door lock and alarm, if the door lock won't work, then the alarm won't set. but it has nothing to do with the swap (unless the shop did something to your door lock).<br><br>Sounds like a warranty job at the place it was done.<br><br>my shop is www.dspauto.com, I'm in North Texas if you want to bring it to me to figure out what they screwed up.
<p>it is 2003 gti 1.8t and they did what they did and want me bring it back in and pay for more services, but for what i paid it was a ok deal. read something that said alarm will not set if the car isnt in park so maybe it has something to do with the transmission harness.. not sure really just wanna figuer this out</p>
<p>also they couldnt do the vagcom thing to switch it over to think that it is a manual now also no back up lights... i know its alot but any info would help..thanks...</p>
<p>As for reverse lights, it's directly connected from the switch on the transmission to the reverse lights, can't screw it up, so I highly doubt they did any wiring if this isn't working, along with the speedo, and cruise... my guess is you still have PRNDL in your instrument cluster, meaning they just got the car to start using a different relay or something, then didn't do anything else... really really horrible shop, don't take it there any more.</p>
<p>Yeah, you need to have the ECU reflashed or replaced with a manual version, there is no VCDS coding to make the automatic version work.</p><p>Whoever did the job didn't do it right. period. </p>
<p>Nothing to do with the alarm, so no idea.... you didn't hear it from this page.</p><p>transmission harness shouldn't even be plugged in</p>
<p>i did my auto to manual swap but my auto did have a vss on the back like my manual tran can u help me to connect my vss it has three wires brown, white/blue and a black/white wires</p>
It should just plug in. If the connector is different, just use the connector from the automatic transmission
<p>my auto tranny only have two plug ins one is the range switch which i use for the reveres switch and the other is a big round plug with alot of wires</p><p>the pic below is like the tranny i had an can i drive the car with the auto ecu untill i get my manual ecu </p>
<p>quick question? i have a 2001 jetta 1.8t 5 speed manual,,,,,,</p><p>WILL A MK4 TDI STARTER FIT ON THE 1.8T? </p><p>I would like to run tdi starter for higher torque to fire the gas engine.... </p><p>no one seems to have a solid answer on vortex and it looks same to me. </p><p>help me out so i can order one! ps. good write up, thanks</p>
It should work just fine, TDI people have been using 1.8T starters for the longest time if they need something in a pinch.
<p>did the trans swap on 02 Jetta (diesel version) swap went well ,,,did relay re-wire swap ,,,car starts fine ,,problem is cannot get engine to come above curb idol,,2500 rpm...what am I missing ? thanks</p>
<p>did you ever figure it out our 03 has a very similar problem</p>
<p>what are your symptoms?</p>
<p>we purchased a body damaged tdi 5sp complete for the swap (drivable complete motor and trany swap 2002 ,190 Kms,our 03 wagon (tdi auto) now lack of power at 1800 sputters ,and a hard time to get to 100 kms per hr ,we changed the etc or ecu from the damaged car and put it in the wagon but it starts and shuts off instantly,put the old one back in and it runs again ! MAYBE should I try the wrecked cars ecm AND the wrecked cars CLUSTER (gauges) ???</p>
<p>the key, cluster, and ecu are all interconnected, it's called an immobilizer. </p><p>have you tried to change the fuel filter? you'll need to prime the system again, but inability to rev in a diesel is fuel limited, there may be other problems as well, but again it's not the swap that would have caused the issue. </p><p>might try sending me a message instead of posting it on the discussion, since it's no longer a problem with the transmission swap. </p>
<p>my email is myleseb@telus.net </p>
<p>Never had that problem... maybe you have the wiring going to the wrong pin in the ECU?</p><p>What codes do you have?</p>
<p>Hello,we completed a 5speed swap from our 02 tdi to 03 tdi wagon,the problem we have is no power,it's like it's in limp mode ,rums and starts great but 1800 rpm no power (I can walk faster ) </p>
I'd check your vacuum lines, occasionally, by moving the engine around to getting the transmissions in and out it will pull on the vacuum lines. <br><br>it's usually the line that goes to the anti-shutter valve behind the intake leading into the main lines behind the small coolant line
<p>we cut the cat out on the exhaust, no change , changed the turbo last nite, no change very frus</p>
<p>It's not going to be a part of the swap why it's not revving past 1800 RPM, what codes are in the system? and did you check your vacuum lines? also have you tried to unplug your MAF?</p>
<p>the car starts up great,at 1800 rpm,its like a misfire,flutter,sputter,I don't no what to call it,unplug the maf(I tried 3 ),then it has a bit more power.took it to 3 tecks,new turbo, cut the cat out,vac lines good and pressure is good still no change </p>
<p>I am doing this swap. The donor is a 2000 5 speed TDI, The good car is a 2004 TDI Auto. I am not seeing how to hook up the Speed sensor???</p><p>Is this write up not going to work for the swap to a 2004??? Everything is installed, and I'm ready to wire and what not...</p>
check out:<br>http://dspauto.com/node/33<br><br>this instructable is for an ALH version only. yours is a BEW.<br><br>The reverse, and starter wiring is the same, just the cruise control and A23 bus is different.
<p>Is there a way of getting a hold of you in real time? Like text or facebook? </p><p>The link you sent, does it go into the wiring detail for the alh like yours does on here?<br></p>
<p>the link goes to my web page, but it does have wiring instructions like on here. the web page has my phone number</p>
<p>Hi Alphaseinor,</p><p>I'm in the process of doing this auto to manual swap, just had a few questions regarding it.</p><p>Here is what I have currently:</p><p>-My car is a 2001 VW Jetta 2.0 automatic 01M</p><p>-I have a 02J manual trans/gearbox/shift cables/ECM/axles pretty much all of the nuts bolts from a 2001 Jetta 1.8T donor car. </p><p>My questions are:</p><p>-Can I use the 2001 1.8T manual ECM for my car? Or would I need a 2.0 manual ECM?</p><p>-Is it NECESSARY to use the donor 1.8T manual ECM? </p><p>-I can still use my original cluster?</p><p>-Is your wiring for the relay/clutch pedal/TCM/ECM etc. similar to a 2001 2.0 even if I use a the manual ECM? I know you did this on a TDI. </p><p>I do have VAG-COM and could access a Bentley if need be. The mechanical part I can do, just the wiring is the scary part. Please let me know, thanks for your time! </p>
<p>you need a manual 2.0 ECU and the immobilizer key for both cars</p><p>You can still use the original cluster</p><p>the wiring is the same for starter and the reverse lights, but cruise control is different </p><p>The cruise pin will be listed in the bentley manual, and it will likely need a new run from the pedal to the ECU. </p>
I just bought a 2001 Jetta TDI with a bad automatic tranny in it. Planned on swapping the motor from it into another jetta TDI with a manual tranny I have that has a blown motor. do you think a conversion to manual is less work than a motor swap?
<p>Auto to Manual is a lot less work</p>
The reverse lights, and starter section are the same, the cruise is (mostly) different. I'll need some time to write up a wiring instructable for a 1.8T jetta.<br><br>You will also need an ecu and some way of programming the immobilizer on the manual ecu.
I have a 2003 vw gti with a 1.8t and 09A (eyp). I located a 2000 Jetta VR6 with a 5speed. Will that 5speed work with my 1.8t?
<p>You need to have a 1.8T, 2.0l, or TDI transmission to fit it. </p><p>The 1.8T if you use something out of a 2.0 or a TDI will need to be tuned to let the cruise control work correctly, you'll also need the computer from a manual, and the immobilizer code for the ECU and your instrument cluster. </p><p>The cruise control is different between the TDI and the 1.8T, and if yours was a 5 speed you'll need to wire up the speed sensor, and A23 bus as well.</p>
Please do the instructable for 1.8t for all us non diesels geeks it would make youre instructable more complete .....maybe you will be famous some day?
<p>I'm already famous :) </p><p>The 1.8T and VR6 swaps are very similar, but the 1.8T is harder because you need to deal with immobilizer issues. </p>
<p>Hi Alphaseinor. </p><p>i&acute;ve follow your posts on the vw forums. i&acute;m looking for some help. </p><p>i have a jetta 1.8 turbo swaped from tiptronic 09a to manual 02j, and i can&acute;t make my speedometer works! i&acute;ve followed the next steps:</p><p><strong><br></strong></p><div><strong><br><div><div><div>So you deff have a different ECU P/N then I originally Had, but I'm still willing to bet that yours is not recodable at all, as is evident to what you said. That you go to recode it, but it doesn't take. I had the same exact thing...<br><br>As for the VSS... It really wasn't all that hard once I understood what I was looking at in the wiring diagrams..<br><br>Pin 1 goes to Power<br>Pin 2 goes to Signal to the Speedo<br>Pin 3 goes to ground (trace #43 is ground)<br><br><br><br>For Pin 2, Snip off the wire at Pin #: 56 at your TCU connector. spice this into Pin #2 of the VSS. DONE!!! (this effectively runs the wire from Pin 2 of the VSS to the Speedo Signal Input (pin 28 of the blue connector for the cluster) <br><br>=========================================<br>NOW, youe Speedo and Odom will work, BUT... Once tyou get your ECU sorted out, you will still get a CEL that you VSS is implausible. Your ECU 'knows' the car is moving, but cant read at what speed... you need to snip another wire from the TCU connector (Pin #63) and get it connected to the signal output for the speedo (pin # 3 blue connector, cluster)<br><br>there is an intermediate connection between this and the cluster connector. If you can manager to tie in here, that is pry best. I was not able to so I ran the wire through the firewall just behind the cluster. If you pull off the black cover to the right of the windshield washer motor, you can see where the wires route through... (the line A27 goes to Pin #3 of the blue Cluster connector)<br><br><br><br><br>..and for good mesure here is the diagram for the Cruse control... Looks like we need to run the +12V to Pin #: 39 of our ECU.</div>maybe i&acute;ve making something bad, please help!!</div></div></strong></div>

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