Learn how to build an AC/DC interface for an Olympus E-510.
Unfortunately, Olympus didn't bother to make an AC/DC adapter for the Olympus E-510 camera. This typically isn't a problem as you can just tool around with a bag full of fresh batteries. It does become an issue if you decide to use your camera for time-lapse photos and don't want to replace batteries constantly during a long time-lapse sequence. Not only is replacing batteries a hassle, but it also shifts the position of the camera and makes the finished product not as smooth.
This project assumes you have a better-than basic understanding of DC electricity and some basic wood-working skill. If you have successfully built a circuit from a kit, know how to solder and are confident that you can cut wood without amputating your or your friends fingers, you should be OK.
If you have access to a laser cutter, you can have your plywood prototype in no time! If you don't, get your hobby knife and sand paper ready! This project also shows a great way to make 3d plywood prototypes.
You will need an AC/DC converter that can supply at least .5 amps (1 amp if you plan on shooting more than a picture/second) at at least 10 volts. Most variable voltage regulators need a supply voltage at least 2 volts over the set voltage to function properly. Check the spec sheet for your regulator.
To keep your camera safe, run your DC supply through a voltage regulator to ensure that your camera only gets between 6.8 and 7.2 volts. I suggest building the one shown below and dropping it into a box as it is handy to have an adjustable voltage regulator hanging around your bench.
http://www.ladyada.net/library/equipt/diypsupp.html
If you can find an LBH-1 for a reasonable price ($60 here in Norway), you can skip this instructable and simply wire up the LBH-1 as shown on the page below. I strongly encourage you to use a voltage regulator between the AC/DC wall-wart and camera. The wall-wart adapter shown in the page below will *NOT* provide a stable voltage. The selector switch simply sets an approximate range.
http://www.pinetreecomputing.com/camctl_eseries_power.asp
For more information on creating an intervalometer for shooting time lapse with an Olympus E series camera, check out this blag entry:
http://www.txoof.com/2011/04/time-lapse-intervalometers-and-555.html
You may also want to look into this instructable for making a remote cable interface for your Olympus E series.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Olympus-Evolt-E510-Remote-Cable-Release-Version-2/
Some things to think about before you start:
This project involves hacking your potentially expensive camera. With care and attention to detail, you should be able to create a nice AC/DC adapter without damaging anything. But as all hacking goes, you could wreck your camera and release it's magic blue smoke, start a fire, fall off the side of a bottomless cliff, or make your dog implode. This worked great for me, but your mileage may vary.
Unfortunately, Olympus didn't bother to make an AC/DC adapter for the Olympus E-510 camera. This typically isn't a problem as you can just tool around with a bag full of fresh batteries. It does become an issue if you decide to use your camera for time-lapse photos and don't want to replace batteries constantly during a long time-lapse sequence. Not only is replacing batteries a hassle, but it also shifts the position of the camera and makes the finished product not as smooth.
This project assumes you have a better-than basic understanding of DC electricity and some basic wood-working skill. If you have successfully built a circuit from a kit, know how to solder and are confident that you can cut wood without amputating your or your friends fingers, you should be OK.
If you have access to a laser cutter, you can have your plywood prototype in no time! If you don't, get your hobby knife and sand paper ready! This project also shows a great way to make 3d plywood prototypes.
You will need an AC/DC converter that can supply at least .5 amps (1 amp if you plan on shooting more than a picture/second) at at least 10 volts. Most variable voltage regulators need a supply voltage at least 2 volts over the set voltage to function properly. Check the spec sheet for your regulator.
To keep your camera safe, run your DC supply through a voltage regulator to ensure that your camera only gets between 6.8 and 7.2 volts. I suggest building the one shown below and dropping it into a box as it is handy to have an adjustable voltage regulator hanging around your bench.
http://www.ladyada.net/library/equipt/diypsupp.html
If you can find an LBH-1 for a reasonable price ($60 here in Norway), you can skip this instructable and simply wire up the LBH-1 as shown on the page below. I strongly encourage you to use a voltage regulator between the AC/DC wall-wart and camera. The wall-wart adapter shown in the page below will *NOT* provide a stable voltage. The selector switch simply sets an approximate range.
http://www.pinetreecomputing.com/camctl_eseries_power.asp
For more information on creating an intervalometer for shooting time lapse with an Olympus E series camera, check out this blag entry:
http://www.txoof.com/2011/04/time-lapse-intervalometers-and-555.html
You may also want to look into this instructable for making a remote cable interface for your Olympus E series.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Olympus-Evolt-E510-Remote-Cable-Release-Version-2/
Some things to think about before you start:
This project involves hacking your potentially expensive camera. With care and attention to detail, you should be able to create a nice AC/DC adapter without damaging anything. But as all hacking goes, you could wreck your camera and release it's magic blue smoke, start a fire, fall off the side of a bottomless cliff, or make your dog implode. This worked great for me, but your mileage may vary.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
Tools you will need
* Google Sketchup
* Google Sketchup Slicer Plugin
* A decent Vernier Caliper - Make sure you know how to read your caliper
* Metal straight edge or ruler
* A printer
* Sharp hobby knife
* Small clamp
* Tin snips
* Soldering Iron
Materials you will need
* Thin bass or pine wood sheets (approx. 2.5mm thick works well)
* Printer Paper
* Craft glue stick
* Sand paper
* Two part epoxy
* Wax paper
* Disposable mixing cup (I like to use the dimpled end of a soda can with a bit of aluminum foil)
* Disposable mixing sticks
* Thin brass or steel plate (a steel soda can or bean tin works great)
* 2.5 mm female DC power adapter (links to Mouser.com)
* Solder
Other handy items
* Eye protection - you'd be amazed how far and fast the tips of hobby knives can fly when you bust them.
* Coping saw
* Chisel
* Multimeter
* Google Sketchup
* Google Sketchup Slicer Plugin
* A decent Vernier Caliper - Make sure you know how to read your caliper
* Metal straight edge or ruler
* A printer
* Sharp hobby knife
* Small clamp
* Tin snips
* Soldering Iron
Materials you will need
* Thin bass or pine wood sheets (approx. 2.5mm thick works well)
* Printer Paper
* Craft glue stick
* Sand paper
* Two part epoxy
* Wax paper
* Disposable mixing cup (I like to use the dimpled end of a soda can with a bit of aluminum foil)
* Disposable mixing sticks
* Thin brass or steel plate (a steel soda can or bean tin works great)
* 2.5 mm female DC power adapter (links to Mouser.com)
* Solder
Other handy items
* Eye protection - you'd be amazed how far and fast the tips of hobby knives can fly when you bust them.
* Coping saw
* Chisel
* Multimeter
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Do you reckon it will work with this?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/dc-3-12v-3a-compact-bench-power-supply-96963
I agree with 'evilution, but with an even BETTER suggestion_ I think.
Do as 'evilution' suggest, but for the power supply, just spend about 8-15 bucks at Radio Shack for an AC-DC regulated supply for the amp/volt you need. Be sure not to reverse the polarity at the plug.
The only way I was confident in the voltage was when I used the voltage regulator shown above.
This same advice can apply to any project that uses a DC power supply.
http://lifehacker.com/5856220/make-an-ac-adapter-for-your-battery+only-digital-camera
You got hackaday'ed. Congrats!