We all know washer and dryer pedestals are VERY expensive and are ridiculously priced. You can certainly buy another washer for the price of the two pedestals; or perhaps a new refrigerator! This instructible shows you how to make yourself a cheap pedestal or stand for your washer and dryer.

The advantages of having a pedestal or stands for your dryer and washer is that you eliminate the need to bend over to pick up your laundry. Also you can place items under the pedestal such as soap, laundry detergents, etc. The pedestals are a practical accessory for front loading washing machines and dryers.

Step 1: Materials


Plywood (the thicker the better. mine is about an inch thick)
2" x 4" wood
Drill or hammer
Screws or nails ( 3 inch screws/nails, 2 inch screws/nails)
Glossy paint

All items can be bought at your local hardware stores. I got all these at home depot. The plywood cost $15 since it was very thick. The 3 pieces of 2" x 4" x 10" cost $2.35 each.

Since I already measured the base of both my washer and dryer, I went a head and had home
depot cut the plywood for an extra .15cents per cut thus eliminating back pains and muscle
sore from cutting the plywood myself. I highly recommend doing this.
<p>maybe instead of drawers use rolling storage boxes minus the lids :)</p>
This looks like a great solution. Have you heard anything about this design withstanding time?
<p>i built these in December of 2011, and they're still working great. I built them because my basement floods a couple of inches sometimes and the open front has been great from removing water. They're incredibly sturdy as well and I can stand and jump on them and the vibrations of the machines haven't phased them at all. Good stuff and thank you for the design!!</p>
So far to this day, its still standing and working! No issues so far. Hope that helps.
<p>Great you guys!!!! Enjoy your Pedestals!!!!</p>
Thanks for a great simple design! I loved being able to customize for my space and mismatched washer and dryer. My concrete floor was so uneven I had to add adjustable feet to the bottom of the pedestals to level them. I also added L shaped blocks around the machines' legs to keep them from walking off the pedestals... You know... just in case.
banker says: Apr 26, 2010. 6:52 PM <br> <br>Why do you need a pedestal? Can't you just sit them on the floor? <br> <br>As others mentioned, there are a few reasons: Ergonomics and flood protection are obvious. <br> <br>For myself, I purchased a new washer and dryer for the house I rent. Once they were delivered, I quickly found that: <br> <br> 1) the dryer air out vent was about a foot too low to reach the stock hose connection. Easy fix if it was the only problem. Since it was not (the following problem also plagued me), a pedestal was the logical fix. <br> <br>and <br> <br>2) The drain for the washer was about a foot too high as well. I really couldn't lower the drain (when I tried, sewage from the toilet would sometimes back up and overflow from the washer drain - they were off the same pipe), The problem with the drain being that high was not just a matter of having a hose long enough to reach up there. The pump has to work extra hard to send the dirty wash water that extra foot up. When it finishes, there is still a lot of water left in the drain tube/hose, which back flows into the machine (gravity). The pump also has to work much harder to expel the waste water, fighting gravity and the installer said if I connected it as such, it would void my warranty. <br> <br>Raising the units onto a platform killed two birds with one stone, for me. I was able to pull it off for about $30, total investment. I bought a sheet of 5/8&quot; particle board for $12 (had the hardware store cut it down to 30&quot; x 60&quot;), 6 of the 12&quot; x 8&quot; x 16&quot; concrete blocks for $1.68 each (about $10), a tube of Liquid Nails ($2.27) and some blue 2&quot;+ concrete screws $4... I sat the 6 blocks on their 12&quot; sides, 1 at each of the 4 corners and the other 2 in the front and back center of where the board (and therefore machines) would sit. <br> <br>Next I spread some Liquid Nails on the block tops and finally drilled pilot holes through the wood and into the concrete blocks. I drove the concrete screws down through the wood, into the blocks until they were flush. Having sat the platform where the machines were originally and then put the machines on top, I made sure to re-level them, afterwards. <br> <br>So far there has been to vibration or walking issue, but I could easily add a lip/guard around the edge of the wood if needed to keep them in place. All in all, I spent about $30 and a few hours time (including the time it took to go to the hardware store). Or I could have paid $229.00 times 2 plus tax for the manufacturers pedestals. To me it was a no brainer. Nobody sees the machines or the pedestal as they are in my basement, but even if they did I am not ashamed of it. It's very practical and really doesn't look all that bad.
I believe your design would be alot stronger with plywood sids and back. This helps distribute all of the weight and vibration to the floor. I would also build the sides like a miniture wall with a bottom plate (2x4) and the same on the back and front. Now you have a frame into which you can build a drawer.
Does anyone know if making your own pedestal might void any warranties? <br>Thanks
Building your own pedestal won't but not having the washer unit properly leveled will void the warranty. These front loading designs are very mechanically complex and have to be balanced just so, especially the (relatively) inexpensive ones. If not, water does not drain and balance is thrown off. <br> <br>I have a friend who built his own platform for his front loader. It failed and they sent a repair guy. Fortunately, he just happened to be moving and he had took the platform down. The repair said the unit was level (as the top loaders were) and that have caused it to beat itself to death and collect stagnate water. <br> <br>The repair cost would have been 80% of the unit's initial cost which was pushing $1000. In looking at his reams of warranty material, my friend found out he wasn't supposed to even move the unit himself within the house but instead had to have it professionally shifted and leveled. <br> <br>So check your paperwork carefully before moving or otherwise working with a front loading residential washer. <br> <br>Really a stupid design unless you're making a heavy industrial unit. You know those who make and repair appliances send their congressmen a big box of chocolates every year for the favor of mandating these monsters <br> <br>
If you have small children, you MUST anchor these machines to the pedestal and floor. A young child will hang off the door if left open. In fact, all large furniture in your home should be anchored to the wall!
Why do you need a pedestal?&nbsp; Can't you just sit them on the floor?<br />
When you have back problems, raising your washer and/or dryer makes it so much easier to get close out of the dryer.
also if your basement is prone to flooding, it's nice to elevate your washers (and every damn other thing in your basement.)
Raising front loaders makes it easier for tall folk like myself.<br />
when the washer spins are the pedestals strong enough to handle the vibration? is there any issue with this?
I made something similar, and the concrete floor they are on means they shuffle around a little bit. Occasionally they will get close to each other and start making a lot of noise. I think I just need to put something soft (like carpet squares) underneath to dampen that energy.
The heavy weight of the pedestal gives it a strong base. I don't hear any vibration on the pedestal when the washer starts the spin cycle. Its as if it was on hard floor. Hope that helps.
Did you try to screw your pedestals to the washer ?<br>The pedestal you can buy are normally screwed at the bottom of the washer.
I spoke with a repair man after buying our new front loading set about building my own pedestals. His advice... &quot;Do It&quot;. They can be made very easily (as you see in this Instructable), and much cheaper than the commercial ones. Not only that, but with some 3/4&quot; or 1&quot; plywood and some 2x4s, it will actually be more sturdy than the commercial ones. One thing our guy did recommend, especially on a wooden floor, is to screw the pedestals to the floor.<br><br>I'm planning on building very similar to what was posted here, except that along the back, I'll put a 2x4 horizontally along the ground. The legs will then be between the top 2x4 rail and this new bottom 2x4 rail. I'll then attach that bottom rail to the floor with long screws, hopefully into the floor joists, which will make them very solid.<br><br>One other suggestion he had was once you have the washer perfectly leveled, raise the front end up slightly, about 3/8&quot;. This will keep the weight towards the back of the washer reducing the strain on some parts, and making it last longer.
raxel, <br><br>this is great! thanks so much. I just built one for a new washer and so far it is going great. I doubled up the 2x4s on the legs so I have an inexpensive 4x4 for the legs. <br><br>blessings
Enjoy and have a wonderful laundry day!!!
I used this design to build a double-wide pedestal a couple months ago. I used a 4x4 for the front middle leg. It's quite stable. And about $50 in materials, and I got Home Depot to do the cutting (they make a much nicer straight line than I can with a skill-saw). It took me one evening to build and another couple hours to put two coats of paint on it. This is a great site. Thanks for this write-up.
That was also my concern, that is why I went with the 1 inch thick plywood. It is strong at the same time thick enough to support the 2x4 and the weight of the washer with water and clothes. Believe me, the pedestal itself does not shake. Also just make sure your floor is level. The pedestal weights, I would say, almost 50 lbs. That should give it a stable ground. The trick here is LEVEL.
Hi, I'm about to make mine, too. where'd you get 1&quot; plywood??? all the storres around sell only 3/4&quot; !!!
You can find them at Lowes or Homedepot if you can't, then 3/4's would do just fine. Enjoy and be safe working!
went to Home Depot... I'm so furious! (not really, but annoyed for the waste of time) ... They messed up the cutting! OK, if they were an inch or 2 off... I would have offset that during while assembling... the plywoods ended up (for a 29x26 machine) 29 x 25 -3/4 on one side and 23&quot; on the other!!! that's a trapeze! we measured them there and they seemed fine... I discovered the mistakes when trying to put'em together... the cutting cost 25 cents per cut. (though the dude did it free for me) But beware guys! might be cheaper just to own one of these lil rotary hand saws (how'r they called?) and do it in one's garage
Great job on the instructable.&nbsp; &nbsp;I am not handy and was able to complete this without difficulty.&nbsp;&nbsp; I found a&nbsp;dresser being thrown out&nbsp; 2 days before I bought my washer and wouldn't you know the darn things fit perfectly!&nbsp; I just threw in a 2x4 towards the front of the opening for it to rest on.&nbsp; A little candle wax and a planer and the two drawers slide beautifully.&nbsp;&nbsp; I made my peds&nbsp; 2 &quot;&nbsp; higher than yours and added a 2x4 in the back but otherwise followed your lead.&nbsp;&nbsp;No issues with vibration at all.&nbsp; They are&nbsp;level and&nbsp; very stable&nbsp;/ strong.<br /> <br /> The big test was what my wife would say...and she likes them.&nbsp; Thanks again.......Naglies
I am glad you guys find this very helpful. Enjoy and have fun! God bless!
Great job, raxel.&nbsp; Did this for our new front loader washer, as well as for aging knees.&nbsp; I added two things:&nbsp;1) A piece of slotted angle-iron across the front edge, between the plywood &amp;&nbsp;the 2x3 to give the opening some more rigidity, and 2)&nbsp;extended the top piece back about 4 inches, so that it would clear the baseboard in our laundry nook, and butt against the wall.&nbsp; Then I added a 2x3, on the 2&quot; edge, on top of that, well attached by screws from the bottom.&nbsp; If I&nbsp;ever feel the need to attach it to the wall, all I&nbsp;have to do is sink some long screws thru the 3&quot; face into the wall &amp;&nbsp;studs.<br /> <br /> Guys installing our new washer were very impressed!&nbsp;&nbsp;They said, &quot;No way would I pay $200+ for a drawer!<br />
The manuals for these types of washers say they must be on a concrete floor. I know people who used a wooden platform and their washers had problems. It took about 2 to 2 1/2 years but the washer failed prematurely. It has to do with how fast it spins to get the water out of the clothes. Much, much faster than top load washers. Even a small amount of vibrations (that you can't see) will put stress on the internal parts.
I dont see any problem between a wooden platform and a metal one granted they are leveled and used/adjusted properly. The metal platforms being sold at ridiculous prices are nothing more that just a platform and still needs to be placed/adjusted correctly. But how many of you, when you bought your washer and dryer took the time to adjust the screw in legs? <br /> <br /> Thing is even of you put you washer on concrete and if it, like you said, has a minute vibration, then you'd still have problems in the future. So if you have a pedestal and built it properly you should be good hands just the same.<br />
i am an appliance repair technician by trade. these homemade pedestals usually cause&nbsp; problems. <br /> <br /> the dryer will/should be fine. but the washer needs 700lbs of support under it to operate properly. ive seen joists damaged because of these machines. <br /> <br /> a front load washer is an off balance wheel.<br /> <br /> ive seen a few work. but not many. i hope these work for you. but to anyone else contemplating it. i hope this was helpfull. <br /> <br />
If worried about vibration, would it make sense to add a 2x4 border around the outside of the top?&nbsp; Should be strong enough to keep appliances from taking a trip!<br />
I suppose that can also be done. You might want to increase the all around length and width and depth size to accommodate the 2x4 border. Unless you don't mind the 2x4's sticking out on the sides. That should keep the washer in place.<br />
I second Igarcia's thing. I'm worried about the vibration. My frontload washer is already kinda shakey. Though I imagine if you bolted both stands together it would help for starters.
If your front load is shaky or vibrating then it is not level side to side or front to back. Having said this if you do not level it the inside tumbler will vibrate and rub against the side housing and at some point will cause the full machine to fail. Of course not counting those loads where the jeans are on one side and the light and frilly on the other side.<br /> <br /> Good idea to have some form of levelling whether adjustable or shims although both washer and dryer also have a certain amount of internal levelling capability<br /> <br /> BTW raxel&nbsp;I think this is a great project
The legs of the washers are adjustable. If you get a pair of pliers and try to twist those legs around and give your washer a level. Make sure it does not tip or sway on one side when you try to push it cause normally those are the main causes of vibrations (when the legs/feet are not leveled). I'd double check on those legs.
i'm just wondering, once you finished the pedestals, how did you get the washer and dryer on top of them?<br />
With regards to putting up the washer and dryer on the pedestal, you would need another person to help you carry the washer and dryer.&nbsp; I would also suggest buying those mini forearm forklifts (search:&nbsp; Forearm Forklift Lifting Straps &quot;As Seen on TV&quot;) they make heavy carryons a snap.<br /> <br /> Dont forget to bend those knees!<br />
Thank you so much for this idea! We went a little taller and wider&nbsp;(almost 19&quot; high now) and it is great!. We wanted that warm and fuzzy feeling about it&nbsp;holding the washer,&nbsp;so we also added another brace in the middle. It cost us about $50. at Lowes. That was for the material. They did all the cuts for free. Thanks again!
Your welcome. Have a Happy Laundry Day!!!<br />
Nice design.&nbsp; This morning I went to Home Depot, got them to cut the materials while there, built it and put primer coat on by 2:45 pm all in the same day.&nbsp; It is sturdy.&nbsp; Thank you.
Thank you. Welcome to the joys of doing laundry again hahaha!&nbsp; I would love to see your finished product and maybe with your permission post them at the end of this tutorial so others can see as well how easy and fun and helpful building this pedestal can be. And if anyone has built one of these, if you'd like to share your finished product, I'd like to also put them on the tutorial as well.&nbsp; Again, enjoy doing your laundry. lol
Now I need to learn how to post pictures on the internet!
So just wondering, now that you've been using the pedestals for a while, have you had any issues?&nbsp; Is it any noisier?&nbsp;&nbsp;Have you noticed the pedestals weakening at all?&nbsp; There are plenty of sites that tell you that making your own pedestals isn't recommended because they could break and cause significant damage to your washer/dryer, yet there are plenty of sites out there showing people who have done this.&nbsp; None of these sites ever have follow-ups though after people have used their designs for a few months. &nbsp;<br />
One other thing I noticed about this design that's different from all the others that I've seen is that your pedestals are open on the bottom and front sides. &nbsp;So again, just wondering how that affects the stability (if you've noticed at all).<br />
To date and so far, i have not noticed any weakening on the pedestal itself nor do I hear any creaking sound or shaking. Like i've said if you use a thicker plywood at least an inch thick, then you should not worry about weakening on the structure if you&nbsp; screw them right. These thick plywood ensures support on the 2x4 frame. <br /> <br /> As far as noise wise, its about the same noise as when I didnt have any pedestal.<br /> <br /> The pedestal is open at the bottom because I dont see a need to put any more support than it already has. You can how ever close it if you like when you make one.<br /> <br /> The front is open to accommodate a drawer or a door or what have you.<br />
This a great design. I searched all over for a design for a pedestal on the web and couldn't find any. (Too many people afraid of lawsuits when a poorly built one fall apart under 300 lbs. of water and clothes is my guess.) I only made one change. My wife really wanted the drawers right away so I built your frame around a 24&quot; Ikea base cabinet cut in half to 13&quot;. Everything else was according to your plans except I obviously adjusted the measurements. I have photos if you want to see it. Thanks again for the inspiration.
Have you posted your photos someplace with the Ikea cabinet inside?<br />

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Bio: Just having some fun with junx and recycling stuff! If you have anything to ask on just about anything, please don't hesitate.
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