World's Easiest Silicone Mold.

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Introduction: World's Easiest Silicone Mold.

Yep. That's right. I am about to change your mold-making technique forever. This simple way of silicone mold-making will have you wanting to make casts of all your trinkets and toys.

You will need:
  • water
  • blue dish-soap (any brand seems to work)
  • 100% Silicone (do not buy quick set silicone, you need 100% silicone)
  • bowl
  • caulking gun
  • something you want to make a mold of.
  • scissors/knife
  • masking tape - to patch holes in your positive, if necessary.

Step 1: Make Your Catalyzing Solution.

By mixing a high-concentration of dish soap with water in a bowl, one is actually making a catalytic bath for your silicone. The glycerine in the dish soap accelerates the cure process for of your 100% pure silicone.

This is by no means an exact science, I use blue dish soap because it allows me to see how much I have added to a water bath, I approximate that I used 4 oz. of soap in 64 oz. of water.

Step 2: Catalyzing the Silicone.

Cut off the tip of the silicone caulk tube, and set it in the caulking gun. Unload enough silicone to surround the desired object, into the bath.

I use the whole tube usually.

Step 3: Preparing the Silicone.

While keeping your hand submerged in the dish-soap catalyzing bath, gently clump the string of silicone together. Form it into a ball, and slowly massage it. Fold it, stretch it out, and work it very much like one would knead dough.

When it begins to become a bit less malleable, and stiffen, it is time to sink your positive into your material. In this case, Mike helped me, and we used his dinosaur, Jesus. (hay-zoos)

Step 4: Make Sure the Mold Is Water Tight.

The best way to make sure your mold is watertight is to add a kind of thick-ish layer of silicone to the surface area of your object. Note how the dinosaur is padded by about a 1/2" layer of silicone all around its body. Also, I have left a considerable amount of the dinosaur uncovered, as I am only casting half of this figure.

You want to make sure you can still wiggle your figure out of your mold, without any of it getting caught, otherwise it can be very tricky to extract once your mold has set.

Step 5: Let It Cure.

It will take about an hour for a full cure of your mold, before you can use it. Allow your object to remain in the mold while it cures. When the mold is no longer tacky to the touch, and feels rigid, gently remove your positive.

We kept this mold on top of the fridge, and put a bit of soapy water down on the plate so that the silicone didn't meld with the paper plate.

Also, this part smells awful. Make sure you do all this in a well-ventilated space.

Step 6: Use Your Mold!

We made a sparkly rendition of Jesus with clear casting resin and glitter. When the resin began to gel we set three LEDs inside of him. Behold the sparkliest light up dinosaur in West!

12 People Made This Project!

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4 Questions

Does the mold come out with a tail? I love the idea just curious how he looks when its not the whole mold.

I did exactly what your steps said, i used 100% clear silicon. And my mold is not curing its been 24 hrs and it is still super sticky, i made large enclosed mold of spoons.

I have tried and tried to make the homemade silicone molds no matter what I do it will not cure and harden what am I doing wrong

Are you using 100% clear silicone? This technique will not work with any kind of silicone.

I have not tried the above technique, so I'm just making an educated guess (I am a chemist) Sounds like a catalyst issue. You might try different brands of liquid soap, the cheaper the better (fewer additives to interfere with the catalysis). Even better would be to add pure glycerin to cheap liquid soap, or maybe just glycerin without using soap at all. Glycerin is cheap and readily available from soap-making suppliers and online retailers.

What temperature will this mold handle. I want to make soft plastic baits using Plastisol which need to reach 177°F. Will this mold stand up to that heat?

364 Comments

Does anyone know what the melting point of the set silicon mold would be? I'm interested in trying this method to create molds for candle making.

Cured silicone (with an "e," silicon is an element,) is an inorganic polymer, with a very wide working temp range, from -55C/-67F to 300C/572F. The addition of dish soap probably changes this a little, but melted candle wax won't hurt it.

Polysiloxanes typically have added carbon attached. The carbon makes it organic. Glycerin in water is a great catalyst/promoter.

I tried several times to make a mold from a ceramics figurine (unglazed) I made for the project. But the silicone always sticks way too good to the figurine, thus not leaving a very smooth mold. Also very hard to get out.
I never tried to cure it in soap water first, but do you really think that would make the trick? I tried to cover the figurine in oil first, but made no difference.

Now I just have a figurine with a lot of silicone residue all over it, and I can't figure out a way to clean it off efficiently so I can start over

There is something called mold release that you spray on your original piece so it won't stick. I know the Smooth On company makes one, but there are a lot out there.

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Ceramic is a pretty porous material, even when glazed sometimes, and the silicone loves to stick to it for that reason. In my experience, using the soap water bath will not change the unfortunate results very much if at all. I don't know a good method of cleaning a silicone stuck figure besides burning the silicone off and I wouldn't advise using ceramic objects for this process, ceramic just doesn't want to play nice with silicone.

If you are still bent on casting it, you could maybe coat the ceramic figure with some sort of resin after it is cleaned to give it a less porous surface...? Something to look into perhaps!

Try melted wax to coat the positive. Use a heat gun on low then wipe clean with a cloth

I'm not too keen on getting it glazed, because I want to keep as many details on it as possible

Hi Mikki! I am an instructor for porcelain and ceramics (35 years) and I tell you that so you know I am not blowing smoke but know the mediums enough to give you help. You can glaze any bisque piece with 2 smooth coats of clear glaze and not lose the detail of your piece. Over coverage is where most folks lose some of the details but you will never be able to get a nice mold from a piece that is not smooth to start with. The mold only replicates what you have, and exactly as it is. You're mold will be so nice once you prepare your ceramic item correctly, and your pieces you pour will too! Good luck!