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Yep. That's right. I am about to change your mold-making technique forever. This simple way of silicone mold-making will have you wanting to make casts of all your trinkets and toys.

You will need:
  • water
  • blue dish-soap (any brand seems to work)
  • 100% Silicone (do not buy quick set silicone, you need 100% silicone)
  • bowl
  • caulking gun
  • something you want to make a mold of.
  • scissors/knife
  • masking tape - to patch holes in your positive, if necessary.

Step 1: Make your catalyzing solution.

By mixing a high-concentration of dish soap with water in a bowl, one is actually making a catalytic bath for your silicone. The glycerine in the dish soap accelerates the cure process for of your 100% pure silicone.

This is by no means an exact science, I use blue dish soap because it allows me to see how much I have added to a water bath, I approximate that I used 4 oz. of soap in 64 oz. of water.
<p>If you freeze the caulk or use ice in the soapy water the silicone will set much faster. Your hands will just feel like falling off. </p>
So what happened rest of dinosaur after u half casted it. Feel let down here as still no idea how to make rest of him.
You have to buy resin<br>
<p>Just put the material all around him and let it harden, add 2 straws to the feed or to one foot and the tail so you can fill the mold.<br>One the mold is set you will need to cut the mold to get the dinosaur out.<br>There is a lot of documentation online on how to do this the right way.<br><br>When the dinosaur is out you can use some tape to keep the mold together wile filling it.</p><p>It may not last more then 2 casts, if you want something you can use over and over again you need a 2 part mold and some fancy release agents. </p>
<p>a 50/50 of water and murphy's oil-soap works great for a release agent</p>
<p>Not to be a negative nancy... But why not just use made-for-purpose silicon mold compounds? e.g. http://tiny.cc/ultrasil (aside from the 'use what you've got lying around' benefits of course ;)</p>
<p>@SiDawg</p><p>The reason for making your own is that commecial silicone molds whether ready made or DIY are very expensive. I have made molds with silicone I bought from Family Dollar and recently, just to test the difference, bought some Easy Mold Putty from Amazon. I think it cost around $30 for the two-part mold and the amount you get is so small you almost don't want to open it and use it. To date - I made ONE mold using the commercial mold putty and it didn't come out perfect. I haven't used it since - too expensive for me to not be happy with the results yet you have to practice with it in order to get your technique right. Oh well - it will be sitting on my craft table for a while before I am willing to risk making another substandard mold. I don't like buying ready made molds for the same reason - they are small and expensive and come with shipping costs. At least this way when you DIY it you get a massive tube of silicone that you can make DOZENS of molds with and they can be anything you have around the house or any custom mold you like - and you won't be upset if the mold doesn't come out perfectly because, at roughly $3 a tube, you can stand to make as many mistakes as it takes to get your mold perfect. TBH I do like the consistency and the feel of the commercial mold putty and if I ever get my nerve up - I might invest in a really large pack just to have on hand. But until I get really good at mold making I would be content using the cheap, easy, and stress free alternative.</p>
<p>I've got a line on cheap, strong and good tin-cure silicone. If you want I can ship it to you, take a little while, but if you order enough it's definitely a good value and will save you money.</p>
<p>My thought on that would be cost saving. Depending on the amounts you're working with this seems much cheaper in comparison. I've looked into some of the products similar to what you linked and they could be cost prohibitive for the hobbyist.</p><p>Certainly for small projects it's easier not having to mix two parts to the mold material from a larger bucket.</p>
<p>Amazing! I am very impressed!</p>
<p>Can you add dye to this if so does it have to be a specific type??</p>
Can you please suggest a method for making a hollow cylinder mold that is open ended with approx. 1/2 inch air space in the wall of the cylinder. I would like the mold to make a completed diameter measurement of 4&quot; minimum 4.5&quot; max- with a 1/2&quot; wall, the hollow center space would measure approx 3&quot; minimum. My goal is to embed similar, not identical , objects in clear resin in a tube shape. I can drill out the bottom of the resin if I have to as long as it is not too thick as I don't like wasting the resin. Thank you for any suggestions.
<p>I would try and find a glass or cup that you like, and make a mold from that.</p>
Can you bake your polymer clay in the mold at 275 degrees?
<p>G'Day from Down Under,</p><p>So I've been scrolling through all of the suggestions and replies, yet not one mentions how long these molds will last? Different sites stated that their molds shrunk after only a few days, I also live in a hot-temperate zone so will the weather effect it at all? I am just beginning to teach myself to sculpt, at the moment I'm using salt-dough to get a feel for the craft and to push my abilities. I have managed to create the exact item that I wanted (no-one more surprised than self!!). It is still in the air-drying stage and I'd really like to create this image repeatedly as my signature piece. Can anyone advise me of a permanent molding recipe please? My main piece is 15&quot; x 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot; (or, in Aussie speak: 30cm x 4cm x 9cm), it will be having extensions of varying sizes at a later date (like wings, branches, roots etc), it has a flat base and is intended to be hot-glued onto a canvas as part of a multidimensional artwork. I am still in toddler mode here (aka knows nothing!) and not sure yet whether the salt-dough will be appropriate or whether I will be progressing to the big girl's sandpit (I'm 55 years young!!) and using air-dried clay. I need for the result to be light enough to stay fixed to the canvas (any suggestions as to other more suitable material to use please stand forward!). I am unable to bake or fire the piece as it is just big enough to be too big to fit in my oven and I don't want to be stuffing around making half bits. I am VERY new to this field so please feel free to throw lots of well-meaning advice, I'm an Aussie, we eat well-meaning advice for brekky! Thanking you all in advance, your help is MUCH appreciated.</p><p>Erynne Baynes,</p><p>Queensland, Australia.</p>
<p>Erynne, I saw a cosplay type instructable for making a mask with spiraling antelope type horns. I think it used something like worbla-fabric that can be shaped with heat, for the mold, cut a slit for a one part mold, and then used expanding foam to fill it. But I think this would be too bubbly--leaving a textured surface as well as being brittle. Some of the powdered paper maches have water activated hardeners plus give better detail and durability. May be lighter weight but I've not worked with either enough to recall. </p><p>Have fun! I've been a newbie so often as I have endless curiosity that I can now dive in with fair confidence that I can learn how to do it well enough. Going to a hobby/craft supply store can give ideas on how to DIY products less expensively by going next to a hardware/building supply store. Instead of using art grade flexible modeling paste for a dimensional effect on some plastic plant pots, I used a waterproof spackling paste that cures to a similar texture. May not be as durable but the pot itself won't last that long. I'm upcycling some inexpensive planters. Many art grade products have the same basic ingredients, charge more and while they may be more durable or have some better qualities, for my needs now I can get by with cheaper materials and have more $ left to buy more things to play with. Good luck!</p>
<p>Its been 3 days and it still hasnt dried/cured when I take the figure out, am I doing something wrong?</p>
<p>@JenniferN266</p><p>If your mold hasn't cured yet - you are using the wrong silicone. When I first tried it I went to Home Depot and bought like 5 things of 100% silicone thinking I was gonna make so many molds! But I tried it and the darned thing wouldn't cure - come to find out that I had bought the wrong kind of 100% silicone. They sold two kinds - Silicone 1 and Silicone 2 (if not more) and no tutorial warned against getting the wrong one. I was so frustrated that I'd spent all that money just o have bought the wrong 100% silicone. So you may have the same thing. The one silicone I know that works and is the right kind is the clear 100% Red Devil (I think is the brand) silicone you buy at Family Dollar! Don't get the white one - get the clear one. And you will be fine. Make sure you knead the silicone til it is a firm consistency, but not 100% cured - you want it to be able to still wrap around the item securely. And I recommend letting the molds cure over night to 24 hours. They wil be flexible and not easy to break - depending on how thinkc you make your mold.The thinner they are the easier they will break so you will have to be gentle with thinner molds.You Tube has some awesome visual tuts on DIY silicone molds. </p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>has anyone tried making a mold like this and then using it to cast something in concrete? Or does anyone have an idea on how to do that?</p>
<p>Great instructions except for the fact that the full instructions for molding the entire dinosaur are not included. I have made two-part molds from plaster for a largish art project using metal shims shoved into my soft clay original, but that does not work for a firm original like most of us want to copy. I, along with many others here would like to know how you personally make a full mold?</p>
<p>If you want to make two (or more) part mold, follow the instruction above. THEN cut out a few small holes/pits on a surface that will intersect the second part - these will be the 'keys' that will help you to put the mold parts together the same way every time. Add release agent (e.g. vaseline/car wax/spay wax) on the object and most importantly - on the first molded silicone part. Without the release agent, the two silicone parts will stick to each other - no good for you. Apply a second silicone mold part (as you did with the first one) and let it set. Pull the two mold parts appart, take out the object and cut out a funnel in the mold to pour the resin through. Put the two molds together, tape them for security and pour the plastic throught the funnel! P.S. you can also mold the funnel from silicone-friendly plasticine, salt dough or similar. Make sure you place the funnel in the least visible spot of your object.</p>
<p>Heya, i'm along with you. i'd love a reply from the author, but I *believe*, and don't quote me on this, that the first mould, once cured, could have a thin coating of Vaseline or thinned petroleum jelly (thinned with meths or whatnot) and then the second layer of silicone could be placed over. Like, take an ice cream tub- one of the 2 litre ones, squidge your silicone into that and push your object into that up to the mould mark halfway. then, let it cure. put the Vaseline on, then fill the ice cream tub up to the rest. once it's dried, cut the plastic off and prise the silicone apart, giving a 2 part, if large and blocky mould. Take clay and make a sprue on your positive before casting if you plan on pouring into your mould. That's what i'm doing and it's worked for me, though I know very little about plastics. I'm sure someone will correct me, but I hope i've helped in some way.</p>
<p>I've been working with different silicones for mold making and I would really advise to use a <strong>release agent</strong> between the object and the silicone when you make a mold. The easiest way is using <strong>wax</strong> (e.g. car wax or spray wax). Just apply or spray some on the object, let it dry and polish a bit before submerging it in silicone. Wax is also great if you're making two-part silicone molds - just apply some wax on the first silicone part so that the new silicone part wouldn't stick to the first one. Also, if you're making <strong>two-part molds, add some 'keys'</strong> - make about 1/2&quot; wide pits/holes in the first silicone mold part (remember to wax!), so when you mold the second part, the two intersect - this will help you to keep the two parts together and in the right possition when pouring plastic.</p>
<p>I tried several times to make a mold from a ceramics figurine (unglazed) I made for the project. But the silicone always sticks way too good to the figurine, thus not leaving a very smooth mold. Also very hard to get out.<br>I never tried to cure it in soap water first, but do you really think that would make the trick? I tried to cover the figurine in oil first, but made no difference.</p><p>Now I just have a figurine with a lot of silicone residue all over it, and I can't figure out a way to clean it off efficiently so I can start over</p>
<p>If you need to remove silicone from a surface, the easiest way is to use<br> white vinegar. I used it to remove special mold-making silicone, should work <br>for this cheaper version as well. I haven't tried it on ceramics, so do a test clean on a sample just in case.</p>
<p>Ceramic is a pretty porous material, even when glazed sometimes, and the silicone loves to stick to it for that reason. In my experience, using the soap water bath will not change the unfortunate results very much if at all. I don't know a good method of cleaning a silicone stuck figure besides burning the silicone off and I wouldn't advise using ceramic objects for this process, ceramic just doesn't want to play nice with silicone.</p><p> If you are still bent on casting it, you could maybe coat the ceramic figure with some sort of resin after it is cleaned to give it a less porous surface...? Something to look into perhaps!</p>
<p>I'm not too keen on getting it glazed, because I want to keep as many details on it as possible</p>
Actually, you don't have to glaze it. SuperSeal from Smooth-on seals porous surfaces and is specifically made for this purpose. It comes off with warm water.<br><br>https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/superseal/
<p>Hi Mikki! I am an instructor for porcelain and ceramics (35 years) and I tell you that so you know I am not blowing smoke but know the mediums enough to give you help. You can glaze any bisque piece with 2 smooth coats of clear glaze and not lose the detail of your piece. Over coverage is where most folks lose some of the details but you will never be able to get a nice mold from a piece that is not smooth to start with. The mold only replicates what you have, and exactly as it is. You're mold will be so nice once you prepare your ceramic item correctly, and your pieces you pour will too! Good luck!</p>
<p>Mikki the trick to it not sticking to your ceramics is it needs to be a glazed piece. Not sure if you are using a bisque or plaster piece but it needs to have some kind of finish on it. Hope this helps.</p>
<p>'Contractors Solvent' by De-Solv-It will remove silicone. Available at most hardware stores, it is safe on skin and smells like the skin of an Orange. The solvent is then washed off with soap and water. Use a moisturizer after rinsing your hands as it will also remove your skin oils. I use it to remove tar and tree sap from clothing as well.</p>
<p>Ceramics as in heat resistant? Silicones are known to be almost in-destructable by chemicals (there are some nasty bases that actually dissolve silicone but nothing houshold-grade). Most silicones however start to degrade at 300&deg;C. You could try to put your figurine on a barbecue grill and see if it can burn-off the residuals. </p>
Its a stoneware figurine, so defiantly heat resistant, as it was burnt at 1250&deg;C :P<br>I'll try that, thanks!
<p>Have you tested a wax coating to prevent silicone sticking to the piece?</p>
<p>I have some beeswax, so I might give it a go. </p>
<p>Would this also work for making crayon mold ?</p>
Yup! I learned this technique so that I could make burn out casts from wax positives. Crayon away!
<p>How long does it take in the water bath to be ready? My first one fell into pieces, my second one seemed better but I'm not clear on the timing.</p>
<p>Great post! I'm a huge fan of this site. I would like to make cogs using HDPE milk bottle lids. the HDPE melts at 175 degrees celsius and needs to be compressed to get rid of any air bubbles. </p><p>Would the silicone be OK at that temperature and would I need to use a release agent? I've tried casting these cogs using plaster of paris but removing the HDPE ruins the mould. </p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>I'm trying to add a silicone 'lip' to an existing dustpan, to make it pick up the little dust bits better. Do you think the silicone would attach? Should I score up the edge of the dustpan to make it adhere better? Should I put the silicone straight on, shape it, and let it cure, or use another method? (If there's a better place to be asking this in, please let me know!)</p>
The one part silicone that cures with moisture sticks to things, which is why it is used as a caulk. But cured two part silicones (tin or platinum) won't stick to any nonporous surface except the same type of silicone. While mold release will prolong the mold life; it is really only critical when casting silicone of the same type. Note that tin silicone inhibits cure of platinum silicones.
<p>Silicone sticks to almost anything, but polyethylene is almost impossible to glue to. Maybe start with a dustpan made of something other than polyethylene.</p>
<p>Hey, how about Sugru? Google it and check it out.</p>
<p>Silicone will stick to that dustpan no-prob. I would score it and clean it with alcohol first. If you need to shape it into a lip, maybe look at some <a href="">grout tools to help you get the shape right.</a> For this use case you could even use quickset silicone, and never mix it with water or soap.</p>
Seemingly silly question but how do you use this method to make a mold of the whole object? Like, I want to be able to have the tail of the dinosaur as well. How would I do that?
<p>This really works well. I have a brass windmill cookie mold and made stamp out of it.</p>
<p>This looks really interesting. I can never find the right moulds just when I want them so will definitely try this method.</p>
<p>100% success on this project. </p>
<p>silicone greese might be the answer! i have used silicone greese as a releasing agent for many concrete castings.</p>
<p>Jus wondering how well the details are using this process and if I should use a release agent. The piece I want to replicate is made of resin and detailed.</p>

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