Introduction: World's Easiest Silicone Mold.

Yep. That's right. I am about to change your mold-making technique forever. This simple way of silicone mold-making will have you wanting to make casts of all your trinkets and toys.

You will need:
  • water
  • blue dish-soap (any brand seems to work)
  • 100% Silicone (do not buy quick set silicone, you need 100% silicone)
  • bowl
  • caulking gun
  • something you want to make a mold of.
  • scissors/knife
  • masking tape - to patch holes in your positive, if necessary.

Step 1: Make Your Catalyzing Solution.

By mixing a high-concentration of dish soap with water in a bowl, one is actually making a catalytic bath for your silicone. The glycerine in the dish soap accelerates the cure process for of your 100% pure silicone.

This is by no means an exact science, I use blue dish soap because it allows me to see how much I have added to a water bath, I approximate that I used 4 oz. of soap in 64 oz. of water.

Step 2: Catalyzing the Silicone.

Cut off the tip of the silicone caulk tube, and set it in the caulking gun. Unload enough silicone to surround the desired object, into the bath.

I use the whole tube usually.

Step 3: Preparing the Silicone.

While keeping your hand submerged in the dish-soap catalyzing bath, gently clump the string of silicone together. Form it into a ball, and slowly massage it. Fold it, stretch it out, and work it very much like one would knead dough.

When it begins to become a bit less malleable, and stiffen, it is time to sink your positive into your material. In this case, Mike helped me, and we used his dinosaur, Jesus. (hay-zoos)

Step 4: Make Sure the Mold Is Water Tight.

The best way to make sure your mold is watertight is to add a kind of thick-ish layer of silicone to the surface area of your object. Note how the dinosaur is padded by about a 1/2" layer of silicone all around its body. Also, I have left a considerable amount of the dinosaur uncovered, as I am only casting half of this figure.

You want to make sure you can still wiggle your figure out of your mold, without any of it getting caught, otherwise it can be very tricky to extract once your mold has set.

Step 5: Let It Cure.

It will take about an hour for a full cure of your mold, before you can use it. Allow your object to remain in the mold while it cures. When the mold is no longer tacky to the touch, and feels rigid, gently remove your positive.

We kept this mold on top of the fridge, and put a bit of soapy water down on the plate so that the silicone didn't meld with the paper plate.

Also, this part smells awful. Make sure you do all this in a well-ventilated space.

Step 6: Use Your Mold!

We made a sparkly rendition of Jesus with clear casting resin and glitter. When the resin began to gel we set three LEDs inside of him. Behold the sparkliest light up dinosaur in West!

Comments

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Aethelstan2000 made it! (author)2017-07-23

How similar is this to work with when compared to the food grade two part putty that I can buy? I have never made any moulds before, so I want to practice a bit without spending too much money on failures. Obviously I will use the real deal once I get the hang of it :)

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Mayjones made it! (author)2017-02-15

Hi i would like to make a mould to use to make outrageous jellies/mousse/blancmange. Can i use this method?

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probablepossible made it! (author)probablepossible2017-06-29

Have you made them yet? I want to hear about them! :)

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Mayjones made it! (author)Mayjones2017-06-30

No I didn't. I purchased a couple at a car boot.

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probablepossible made it! (author)probablepossible2017-06-30

that's understandable LOL
I'd like to talk to you about your ideas, if you like.
I'm always looking for interesting sculpting projects. Outrageous is good too

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nspirov made it! (author)nspirov2017-02-15

No, this type of silicone is totally NOT food safe. Please use a two-part food grade silicone (see below for links).

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Mayjones made it! (author)Mayjones2017-02-16

Thank you I will look at The food safe method. Your help is much appreciated.

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CathyW1 made it! (author)2017-06-04

I made a two part mold using this method- it would have been perfect had I spent more time pushing the silicone into my sculpt, into the nooks and crannies. I also had a funny little issue with 'flaking'- for lack of a better word- of the silicone in the water & soap solution. There were bits of the silicone that just wouldn't stick to the ball of silicone for whatever the reason- I used really cheap dish soap so maybe that was it? And sweet jeebus the smell....overwhelming vinegar stench which initially I didn't think would be all that bad so after de-molding I soaked the pieces in a bucket of plain water overnight and it was fine. Here are 3 shots of the process...I havent taken any yet of the finished mold or soap that ive made. It's a sculpey Siamese snufflelupagus baby I made that I wanted to cast in either resin or soap...or both. I would say the mold was a great success and it's only flaws were due to user error.

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CathyW1 made it! (author)CathyW12017-06-04

I also wish I'd used something other than marbles- maybe some pegs or anything longer. I also completely drenched my husbands caulking gun in caulk that would not harden for whatever sciencey reason- it stayed gummy and sticky. I am on a caulk gun ban until I figure out how to clean it- Im going to toss cornstarch all over it and hope I can roll the gunk off. Thank you so much for this instructable, btw. A perfect instructable.

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WillieW18 made it! (author)2017-04-08

How did you make an entire dinosaur when you only made half a mold?

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AndrewL305 made it! (author)AndrewL3052017-05-23

Create the bottom half as he did in the tutorial, then just repeat with the top half. When you cast, you can either combine the two into a solid piece with a hole so you can pour whatever you are using or you can just do just the halves and glue them together afterwards.

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hansenelli made it! (author)2017-05-09

I want to make a mold of my console cup holder to hold my 20oz thermal cup snugly so it doesnt fall over. Could it be accompished using this method? I was thinking I could put the cup in and then surround it with this material and let it cure. But would I be able to extract it?

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StefanieR14 made it! (author)2017-03-25

Where do you get your led lights from? I get tap flashers for hair bows sell but wasnt sure if they'd work or not I'm looking for other options

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Kristy0411 made it! (author)2017-03-22

I would like to make a laptop keyboard dust cover. Would this work?

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ElizabethF54 made it! (author)2017-01-13

I have a mold I'd like to copy. Can I make a positive from silicone and then make a mold from it, or will the silicone stick to itself?

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NikB5 made it! (author)NikB52017-03-01

Use wax to make a positive and then once dried and hard you can then sculpt, remold with silicon and then melt the wax out.

And here's an instructable on how top do just that:- https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-mold-for-lost-wax-casting/

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krutais001 made it! (author)krutais0012017-01-18

Try concrete first, silicone second

author

Theoretically if you use a mold release between the two layers of silicone you should be able to do this, but honestly it might be really difficult, especially if you are using a sort of "knock-off" silicone. You best bet might be to cast it in something cheap like plaster, then make a silicone mold of that.

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Marekot made it! (author)2017-02-24

has anyone tried making a mold like this and then using it to cast something in concrete? Or does anyone have an idea on how to do that? :)

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wold630 made it! (author)wold6302017-02-27

Check out the Mold Making & Casting class or the Concrete class to see if you could get some info there.

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Tomas Jansen made it! (author)2017-02-27

I would like to try this, but I know some types of silicone make the resin cast into them have a shiny finish, and some matte. I really want shiny finish, do you have any advice on the silivone for that? THank you!

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craftymamamaarouf made it! (author)2017-02-17

Hi - I'd like to try this with Barbie shoes; think it would work? Also, will the mold withstand hot glue?

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LizS79 made it! (author)LizS792017-02-23

I wouldn't use hot glue. It might not come off. There's other things out there. I've had success with type 2 plastics with many silicon molds. That's just bottle caps. You can use an oven or even a iron set to highest. You will need baking paper as well for the last method.

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AndyH156 made it! (author)2017-02-01

Does anyone know what the melting point of the set silicon mold would be? I'm interested in trying this method to create molds for candle making.

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neuromonkey made it! (author)neuromonkey2017-02-04

Cured silicone (with an "e," silicon is an element,) is an inorganic polymer, with a very wide working temp range, from -55C/-67F to 300C/572F. The addition of dish soap probably changes this a little, but melted candle wax won't hurt it.

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TamaraH35 made it! (author)2017-01-24

I am working on a project of a human calf and was wondering how much alginate and silicone( what type) I would need for a 20 inch length from the toe to knee and a 15 1/2 inch around the widest part of the calf?

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mostafa mojrek made it! (author)2017-01-03

hello.I AM MOSTSFA MOJREK FROM IRAN.PLEASE HELP ME.What kind of substance use for making dinosur

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Casting Resin

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Niallerthetiler made it! (author)2016-12-15

Does anyone know can you use the finished silicone mold for pouring hot Isomalt for sugar work??

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ElijahS18 made it! (author)ElijahS182016-12-15

the quality of silicone used in caulking guns is not food safe, and may be toxic to humans. Do not use in edible applications without comphrehensive safety research.

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ElijahS18 made it! (author)ElijahS182016-12-15

if your project is supposed to be eaten I would cation you to research the dish soap, and all other ingredients to ensure that you are not making your confections toxic. this is an example of a food safe one: http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/copy-flex

if your question was if the isomalt is compatible with this DIY recipe, i'd guessing yes- you should at least try it. However, if the sugars stick in the mould you might try some kind of kitchen oil, or a powder like confectioners sugar to address any "sticking"

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afedorova made it! (author)2016-12-13

GREAT!!!

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T0BY made it! (author)2016-12-06

Thanks for that, very helpful.

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nmansfie made it! (author)2016-12-02

If you freeze the caulk or use ice in the soapy water the silicone will set much faster. Your hands will just feel like falling off.

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RachelC120 made it! (author)2016-10-04

So what happened rest of dinosaur after u half casted it. Feel let down here as still no idea how to make rest of him.

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Scubadan made it! (author)Scubadan2016-11-30

You have to buy resin

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wemja made it! (author)wemja2016-10-16

Just put the material all around him and let it harden, add 2 straws to the feed or to one foot and the tail so you can fill the mold.
One the mold is set you will need to cut the mold to get the dinosaur out.
There is a lot of documentation online on how to do this the right way.

When the dinosaur is out you can use some tape to keep the mold together wile filling it.

It may not last more then 2 casts, if you want something you can use over and over again you need a 2 part mold and some fancy release agents.

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PatrickF92 made it! (author)PatrickF922016-11-29

a 50/50 of water and murphy's oil-soap works great for a release agent

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SiDawg made it! (author)2016-04-28

Not to be a negative nancy... But why not just use made-for-purpose silicon mold compounds? e.g. http://tiny.cc/ultrasil (aside from the 'use what you've got lying around' benefits of course ;)

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ppodd made it! (author)ppodd2016-09-16

@SiDawg

The reason for making your own is that commecial silicone molds whether ready made or DIY are very expensive. I have made molds with silicone I bought from Family Dollar and recently, just to test the difference, bought some Easy Mold Putty from Amazon. I think it cost around $30 for the two-part mold and the amount you get is so small you almost don't want to open it and use it. To date - I made ONE mold using the commercial mold putty and it didn't come out perfect. I haven't used it since - too expensive for me to not be happy with the results yet you have to practice with it in order to get your technique right. Oh well - it will be sitting on my craft table for a while before I am willing to risk making another substandard mold. I don't like buying ready made molds for the same reason - they are small and expensive and come with shipping costs. At least this way when you DIY it you get a massive tube of silicone that you can make DOZENS of molds with and they can be anything you have around the house or any custom mold you like - and you won't be upset if the mold doesn't come out perfectly because, at roughly $3 a tube, you can stand to make as many mistakes as it takes to get your mold perfect. TBH I do like the consistency and the feel of the commercial mold putty and if I ever get my nerve up - I might invest in a really large pack just to have on hand. But until I get really good at mold making I would be content using the cheap, easy, and stress free alternative.

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Eli_Z made it! (author)Eli_Z2016-11-26

I've got a line on cheap, strong and good tin-cure silicone. If you want I can ship it to you, take a little while, but if you order enough it's definitely a good value and will save you money.

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OmarM63 made it! (author)OmarM632016-05-04

My thought on that would be cost saving. Depending on the amounts you're working with this seems much cheaper in comparison. I've looked into some of the products similar to what you linked and they could be cost prohibitive for the hobbyist.

Certainly for small projects it's easier not having to mix two parts to the mold material from a larger bucket.

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T0BY made it! (author)2016-11-23

Amazing! I am very impressed!

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mini company made it! (author)2016-11-22

Can you add dye to this if so does it have to be a specific type??

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Mossmilldesigns made it! (author)2016-11-19

Can you please suggest a method for making a hollow cylinder mold that is open ended with approx. 1/2 inch air space in the wall of the cylinder. I would like the mold to make a completed diameter measurement of 4" minimum 4.5" max- with a 1/2" wall, the hollow center space would measure approx 3" minimum. My goal is to embed similar, not identical , objects in clear resin in a tube shape. I can drill out the bottom of the resin if I have to as long as it is not too thick as I don't like wasting the resin. Thank you for any suggestions.

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audreyobscura made it! (author)audreyobscura2016-11-21

I would try and find a glass or cup that you like, and make a mold from that.

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Jillmac made it! (author)2016-09-30

Can you bake your polymer clay in the mold at 275 degrees?

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fairygrandma1 made it! (author)2016-08-21

G'Day from Down Under,

So I've been scrolling through all of the suggestions and replies, yet not one mentions how long these molds will last? Different sites stated that their molds shrunk after only a few days, I also live in a hot-temperate zone so will the weather effect it at all? I am just beginning to teach myself to sculpt, at the moment I'm using salt-dough to get a feel for the craft and to push my abilities. I have managed to create the exact item that I wanted (no-one more surprised than self!!). It is still in the air-drying stage and I'd really like to create this image repeatedly as my signature piece. Can anyone advise me of a permanent molding recipe please? My main piece is 15" x 1.5" x 3.5" (or, in Aussie speak: 30cm x 4cm x 9cm), it will be having extensions of varying sizes at a later date (like wings, branches, roots etc), it has a flat base and is intended to be hot-glued onto a canvas as part of a multidimensional artwork. I am still in toddler mode here (aka knows nothing!) and not sure yet whether the salt-dough will be appropriate or whether I will be progressing to the big girl's sandpit (I'm 55 years young!!) and using air-dried clay. I need for the result to be light enough to stay fixed to the canvas (any suggestions as to other more suitable material to use please stand forward!). I am unable to bake or fire the piece as it is just big enough to be too big to fit in my oven and I don't want to be stuffing around making half bits. I am VERY new to this field so please feel free to throw lots of well-meaning advice, I'm an Aussie, we eat well-meaning advice for brekky! Thanking you all in advance, your help is MUCH appreciated.

Erynne Baynes,

Queensland, Australia.

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datajunkie55 made it! (author)datajunkie552016-09-29

Erynne, I saw a cosplay type instructable for making a mask with spiraling antelope type horns. I think it used something like worbla-fabric that can be shaped with heat, for the mold, cut a slit for a one part mold, and then used expanding foam to fill it. But I think this would be too bubbly--leaving a textured surface as well as being brittle. Some of the powdered paper maches have water activated hardeners plus give better detail and durability. May be lighter weight but I've not worked with either enough to recall.

Have fun! I've been a newbie so often as I have endless curiosity that I can now dive in with fair confidence that I can learn how to do it well enough. Going to a hobby/craft supply store can give ideas on how to DIY products less expensively by going next to a hardware/building supply store. Instead of using art grade flexible modeling paste for a dimensional effect on some plastic plant pots, I used a waterproof spackling paste that cures to a similar texture. May not be as durable but the pot itself won't last that long. I'm upcycling some inexpensive planters. Many art grade products have the same basic ingredients, charge more and while they may be more durable or have some better qualities, for my needs now I can get by with cheaper materials and have more $ left to buy more things to play with. Good luck!

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JenniferB266 made it! (author)2016-06-16

Its been 3 days and it still hasnt dried/cured when I take the figure out, am I doing something wrong?

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