Introduction: World's Easiest Silicone Mold.
Yep. That's right. I am about to change your mold-making technique forever. This simple way of silicone mold-making will have you wanting to make casts of all your trinkets and toys.
You will need:
Step 1: Make Your Catalyzing Solution.
By mixing a high-concentration of dish soap with water in a bowl, one is actually making a catalytic bath for your silicone. The glycerine in the dish soap accelerates the cure process for of your 100% pure silicone.
This is by no means an exact science, I use blue dish soap because it allows me to see how much I have added to a water bath, I approximate that I used 4 oz. of soap in 64 oz. of water.
Step 2: Catalyzing the Silicone.
Cut off the tip of the silicone caulk tube, and set it in the caulking gun. Unload enough silicone to surround the desired object, into the bath.
I use the whole tube usually.
Step 3: Preparing the Silicone.
While keeping your hand submerged in the dish-soap catalyzing bath, gently clump the string of silicone together. Form it into a ball, and slowly massage it. Fold it, stretch it out, and work it very much like one would knead dough.
When it begins to become a bit less malleable, and stiffen, it is time to sink your positive into your material. In this case, Mike helped me, and we used his dinosaur, Jesus. (hay-zoos)
Step 4: Make Sure the Mold Is Water Tight.
The best way to make sure your mold is watertight is to add a kind of thick-ish layer of silicone to the surface area of your object. Note how the dinosaur is padded by about a 1/2" layer of silicone all around its body. Also, I have left a considerable amount of the dinosaur uncovered, as I am only casting half of this figure.
You want to make sure you can still wiggle your figure out of your mold, without any of it getting caught, otherwise it can be very tricky to extract once your mold has set.
Step 5: Let It Cure.
It will take about an hour for a full cure of your mold, before you can use it. Allow your object to remain in the mold while it cures. When the mold is no longer tacky to the touch, and feels rigid, gently remove your positive.
We kept this mold on top of the fridge, and put a bit of soapy water down on the plate so that the silicone didn't meld with the paper plate.
Also, this part smells awful. Make sure you do all this in a well-ventilated space.
Step 6: Use Your Mold!
We made a sparkly rendition of Jesus with clear casting resin and glitter. When the resin began to gel we set three LEDs inside of him. Behold the sparkliest light up dinosaur in West!
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Baby Powder, about 1/8 inch layer will also keep it from sticking. Also, when using a silicone mold, baby powder works as a release agent.
Hey guys, please note that this only works with type 1 silicone, not type 2. Type 2 will not harden.
Does the mold come out with a tail? I love the idea just curious how he looks when its not the whole mold.
This is just a one-part mold, so you will only get a portion of the model. For more info, check out this class by Paige Russell:
I tried this on a ceramic dish but the silicone got completely stuck to it. How can I remove the silicone? Thanks
Was this an unglazed ceramic surface? The silicone likely penetrated the pores of unglazed pottery. I'm unsure of a way to remove cured silicone outside of brute force :-/
Would these molds be safe to use with food? I'd like to make molded chocolates.
This silicone is an Acetic acid cure silicone (smells like vinegar) and is not safe for food. Silicone also comes with a Tin Catalyst or a platinum catalyst. Only Platinum catalyst silicones are safe for food. Alas also the most expensive.
No. You have to use a food-safe silicone, which is more expensive and comes as a 2-part kit.
would this mold be safe to use for melted lead
Alas no. Lead melts at 330C. Pure Silicone will melt at 250C. There are lower melting point metals which may be available in your area. E.g. Rose's metal.
Lead melts at 621.4°F, 327.5°C