Yep. That's right. I am about to change your mold-making technique forever. This simple way of silicone mold-making will have you wanting to make casts of all your trinkets and toys.

You will need:
  • water
  • blue dish-soap (any brand seems to work)
  • 100% Silicone (do not buy quick set silicone, you need 100% silicone)
  • bowl
  • caulking gun
  • something you want to make a mold of.
  • scissors/knife
  • masking tape - to patch holes in your positive, if necessary.

Step 1: Make Your Catalyzing Solution.

By mixing a high-concentration of dish soap with water in a bowl, one is actually making a catalytic bath for your silicone. The glycerine in the dish soap accelerates the cure process for of your 100% pure silicone.

This is by no means an exact science, I use blue dish soap because it allows me to see how much I have added to a water bath, I approximate that I used 4 oz. of soap in 64 oz. of water.

Step 2: Catalyzing the Silicone.

Cut off the tip of the silicone caulk tube, and set it in the caulking gun. Unload enough silicone to surround the desired object, into the bath.

I use the whole tube usually.

Step 3: Preparing the Silicone.

While keeping your hand submerged in the dish-soap catalyzing bath, gently clump the string of silicone together. Form it into a ball, and slowly massage it. Fold it, stretch it out, and work it very much like one would knead dough.

When it begins to become a bit less malleable, and stiffen, it is time to sink your positive into your material. In this case, Mike helped me, and we used his dinosaur, Jesus. (hay-zoos)

Step 4: Make Sure the Mold Is Water Tight.

The best way to make sure your mold is watertight is to add a kind of thick-ish layer of silicone to the surface area of your object. Note how the dinosaur is padded by about a 1/2" layer of silicone all around its body. Also, I have left a considerable amount of the dinosaur uncovered, as I am only casting half of this figure.

You want to make sure you can still wiggle your figure out of your mold, without any of it getting caught, otherwise it can be very tricky to extract once your mold has set.

Step 5: Let It Cure.

It will take about an hour for a full cure of your mold, before you can use it. Allow your object to remain in the mold while it cures. When the mold is no longer tacky to the touch, and feels rigid, gently remove your positive.

We kept this mold on top of the fridge, and put a bit of soapy water down on the plate so that the silicone didn't meld with the paper plate.

Also, this part smells awful. Make sure you do all this in a well-ventilated space.

Step 6: Use Your Mold!

We made a sparkly rendition of Jesus with clear casting resin and glitter. When the resin began to gel we set three LEDs inside of him. Behold the sparkliest light up dinosaur in West!
How did you make an entire dinosaur when you only made half a mold?
Where do you get your led lights from? I get tap flashers for hair bows sell but wasnt sure if they'd work or not I'm looking for other options
<p>I would like to make a laptop keyboard dust cover. Would this work? </p>
<p>I have a mold I'd like to copy. Can I make a positive from silicone and then make a mold from it, or will the silicone stick to itself?</p>
<p>Use wax to make a positive and then once dried and hard you can then sculpt, remold with silicon and then melt the wax out.</p><p>And here's an instructable on how top do just that:- https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-mold-for-lost-wax-casting/</p>
<p>Try concrete first, silicone second</p>
<p>Theoretically if you use a mold release between the two layers of silicone you should be able to do this, but honestly it might be really difficult, especially if you are using a sort of &quot;knock-off&quot; silicone. You best bet might be to cast it in something cheap like plaster, then make a silicone mold of that.</p>
<p>has anyone tried making a mold like this and then using it to cast something in concrete? Or does anyone have an idea on how to do that? :)</p>
<p>Check out the <a href="https://www.instructables.com/class/Concrete-Class/" target="_blank">Mold Making & Casting</a> class or the <a href="https://www.instructables.com/class/Concrete-Class/" target="_blank">Concrete</a> class to see if you could get some info there.</p>
<p>I would like to try this, but I know some types of silicone make the resin cast into them have a shiny finish, and some matte. I really want shiny finish, do you have any advice on the silivone for that? THank you!</p>
<p>Hi - I'd like to try this with Barbie shoes; think it would work? Also, will the mold withstand hot glue?</p>
I wouldn't use hot glue. It might not come off. There's other things out there. I've had success with type 2 plastics with many silicon molds. That's just bottle caps. You can use an oven or even a iron set to highest. You will need baking paper as well for the last method.
<p>Hi i would like to make a mould to use to make outrageous jellies/mousse/blancmange. Can i use this method?</p>
<p>No, this type of silicone is totally NOT food safe. Please use a two-part food grade silicone (see below for links).</p>
Thank you I will look at The food safe method. Your help is much appreciated.
<p>Does anyone know what the melting point of the set silicon mold would be? I'm interested in trying this method to create molds for candle making.</p>
<p>Cured silicone (with an &quot;e,&quot; silicon is an element,) is an inorganic polymer, with a very wide working temp range, from -55C/-67F to 300C/572F. The addition of dish soap probably changes this a little, but melted candle wax won't hurt it.</p>
I am working on a project of a human calf and was wondering how much alginate and silicone( what type) I would need for a 20 inch length from the toe to knee and a 15 1/2 inch around the widest part of the calf?<br>
hello.I AM MOSTSFA MOJREK FROM IRAN.PLEASE HELP ME.What kind of substance use for making dinosur
<p>Casting Resin</p>
Does anyone know can you use the finished silicone mold for pouring hot Isomalt for sugar work??
<p>the quality of silicone used in caulking guns is not food safe, and may be toxic to humans. Do not use in edible applications without comphrehensive safety research.</p>
<p>if your project is supposed to be eaten I would cation you to research the dish soap, and all other ingredients to ensure that you are not making your confections toxic. this is an example of a food safe one: <a href="http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/copy-flex" rel="nofollow">http://www.makeyourownmolds.com/copy-flex</a><br><br>if your question was if the isomalt is compatible with this DIY recipe, i'd guessing yes- you should at least try it. However, if the sugars stick in the mould you might try some kind of kitchen oil, or a powder like confectioners sugar to address any &quot;sticking&quot;</p>
<p>Thanks for that, very helpful.</p>
<p>If you freeze the caulk or use ice in the soapy water the silicone will set much faster. Your hands will just feel like falling off. </p>
So what happened rest of dinosaur after u half casted it. Feel let down here as still no idea how to make rest of him.
You have to buy resin<br>
<p>Just put the material all around him and let it harden, add 2 straws to the feed or to one foot and the tail so you can fill the mold.<br>One the mold is set you will need to cut the mold to get the dinosaur out.<br>There is a lot of documentation online on how to do this the right way.<br><br>When the dinosaur is out you can use some tape to keep the mold together wile filling it.</p><p>It may not last more then 2 casts, if you want something you can use over and over again you need a 2 part mold and some fancy release agents. </p>
<p>a 50/50 of water and murphy's oil-soap works great for a release agent</p>
<p>Not to be a negative nancy... But why not just use made-for-purpose silicon mold compounds? e.g. http://tiny.cc/ultrasil (aside from the 'use what you've got lying around' benefits of course ;)</p>
<p>@SiDawg</p><p>The reason for making your own is that commecial silicone molds whether ready made or DIY are very expensive. I have made molds with silicone I bought from Family Dollar and recently, just to test the difference, bought some Easy Mold Putty from Amazon. I think it cost around $30 for the two-part mold and the amount you get is so small you almost don't want to open it and use it. To date - I made ONE mold using the commercial mold putty and it didn't come out perfect. I haven't used it since - too expensive for me to not be happy with the results yet you have to practice with it in order to get your technique right. Oh well - it will be sitting on my craft table for a while before I am willing to risk making another substandard mold. I don't like buying ready made molds for the same reason - they are small and expensive and come with shipping costs. At least this way when you DIY it you get a massive tube of silicone that you can make DOZENS of molds with and they can be anything you have around the house or any custom mold you like - and you won't be upset if the mold doesn't come out perfectly because, at roughly $3 a tube, you can stand to make as many mistakes as it takes to get your mold perfect. TBH I do like the consistency and the feel of the commercial mold putty and if I ever get my nerve up - I might invest in a really large pack just to have on hand. But until I get really good at mold making I would be content using the cheap, easy, and stress free alternative.</p>
<p>I've got a line on cheap, strong and good tin-cure silicone. If you want I can ship it to you, take a little while, but if you order enough it's definitely a good value and will save you money.</p>
<p>My thought on that would be cost saving. Depending on the amounts you're working with this seems much cheaper in comparison. I've looked into some of the products similar to what you linked and they could be cost prohibitive for the hobbyist.</p><p>Certainly for small projects it's easier not having to mix two parts to the mold material from a larger bucket.</p>
<p>Amazing! I am very impressed!</p>
<p>Can you add dye to this if so does it have to be a specific type??</p>
Can you please suggest a method for making a hollow cylinder mold that is open ended with approx. 1/2 inch air space in the wall of the cylinder. I would like the mold to make a completed diameter measurement of 4&quot; minimum 4.5&quot; max- with a 1/2&quot; wall, the hollow center space would measure approx 3&quot; minimum. My goal is to embed similar, not identical , objects in clear resin in a tube shape. I can drill out the bottom of the resin if I have to as long as it is not too thick as I don't like wasting the resin. Thank you for any suggestions.
<p>I would try and find a glass or cup that you like, and make a mold from that.</p>
Can you bake your polymer clay in the mold at 275 degrees?
<p>G'Day from Down Under,</p><p>So I've been scrolling through all of the suggestions and replies, yet not one mentions how long these molds will last? Different sites stated that their molds shrunk after only a few days, I also live in a hot-temperate zone so will the weather effect it at all? I am just beginning to teach myself to sculpt, at the moment I'm using salt-dough to get a feel for the craft and to push my abilities. I have managed to create the exact item that I wanted (no-one more surprised than self!!). It is still in the air-drying stage and I'd really like to create this image repeatedly as my signature piece. Can anyone advise me of a permanent molding recipe please? My main piece is 15&quot; x 1.5&quot; x 3.5&quot; (or, in Aussie speak: 30cm x 4cm x 9cm), it will be having extensions of varying sizes at a later date (like wings, branches, roots etc), it has a flat base and is intended to be hot-glued onto a canvas as part of a multidimensional artwork. I am still in toddler mode here (aka knows nothing!) and not sure yet whether the salt-dough will be appropriate or whether I will be progressing to the big girl's sandpit (I'm 55 years young!!) and using air-dried clay. I need for the result to be light enough to stay fixed to the canvas (any suggestions as to other more suitable material to use please stand forward!). I am unable to bake or fire the piece as it is just big enough to be too big to fit in my oven and I don't want to be stuffing around making half bits. I am VERY new to this field so please feel free to throw lots of well-meaning advice, I'm an Aussie, we eat well-meaning advice for brekky! Thanking you all in advance, your help is MUCH appreciated.</p><p>Erynne Baynes,</p><p>Queensland, Australia.</p>
<p>Erynne, I saw a cosplay type instructable for making a mask with spiraling antelope type horns. I think it used something like worbla-fabric that can be shaped with heat, for the mold, cut a slit for a one part mold, and then used expanding foam to fill it. But I think this would be too bubbly--leaving a textured surface as well as being brittle. Some of the powdered paper maches have water activated hardeners plus give better detail and durability. May be lighter weight but I've not worked with either enough to recall. </p><p>Have fun! I've been a newbie so often as I have endless curiosity that I can now dive in with fair confidence that I can learn how to do it well enough. Going to a hobby/craft supply store can give ideas on how to DIY products less expensively by going next to a hardware/building supply store. Instead of using art grade flexible modeling paste for a dimensional effect on some plastic plant pots, I used a waterproof spackling paste that cures to a similar texture. May not be as durable but the pot itself won't last that long. I'm upcycling some inexpensive planters. Many art grade products have the same basic ingredients, charge more and while they may be more durable or have some better qualities, for my needs now I can get by with cheaper materials and have more $ left to buy more things to play with. Good luck!</p>
<p>Its been 3 days and it still hasnt dried/cured when I take the figure out, am I doing something wrong?</p>
<p>@JenniferN266</p><p>If your mold hasn't cured yet - you are using the wrong silicone. When I first tried it I went to Home Depot and bought like 5 things of 100% silicone thinking I was gonna make so many molds! But I tried it and the darned thing wouldn't cure - come to find out that I had bought the wrong kind of 100% silicone. They sold two kinds - Silicone 1 and Silicone 2 (if not more) and no tutorial warned against getting the wrong one. I was so frustrated that I'd spent all that money just o have bought the wrong 100% silicone. So you may have the same thing. The one silicone I know that works and is the right kind is the clear 100% Red Devil (I think is the brand) silicone you buy at Family Dollar! Don't get the white one - get the clear one. And you will be fine. Make sure you knead the silicone til it is a firm consistency, but not 100% cured - you want it to be able to still wrap around the item securely. And I recommend letting the molds cure over night to 24 hours. They wil be flexible and not easy to break - depending on how thinkc you make your mold.The thinner they are the easier they will break so you will have to be gentle with thinner molds.You Tube has some awesome visual tuts on DIY silicone molds. </p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>has anyone tried making a mold like this and then using it to cast something in concrete? Or does anyone have an idea on how to do that?</p>
<p>Great instructions except for the fact that the full instructions for molding the entire dinosaur are not included. I have made two-part molds from plaster for a largish art project using metal shims shoved into my soft clay original, but that does not work for a firm original like most of us want to copy. I, along with many others here would like to know how you personally make a full mold?</p>
<p>If you want to make two (or more) part mold, follow the instruction above. THEN cut out a few small holes/pits on a surface that will intersect the second part - these will be the 'keys' that will help you to put the mold parts together the same way every time. Add release agent (e.g. vaseline/car wax/spay wax) on the object and most importantly - on the first molded silicone part. Without the release agent, the two silicone parts will stick to each other - no good for you. Apply a second silicone mold part (as you did with the first one) and let it set. Pull the two mold parts appart, take out the object and cut out a funnel in the mold to pour the resin through. Put the two molds together, tape them for security and pour the plastic throught the funnel! P.S. you can also mold the funnel from silicone-friendly plasticine, salt dough or similar. Make sure you place the funnel in the least visible spot of your object.</p>
<p>Heya, i'm along with you. i'd love a reply from the author, but I *believe*, and don't quote me on this, that the first mould, once cured, could have a thin coating of Vaseline or thinned petroleum jelly (thinned with meths or whatnot) and then the second layer of silicone could be placed over. Like, take an ice cream tub- one of the 2 litre ones, squidge your silicone into that and push your object into that up to the mould mark halfway. then, let it cure. put the Vaseline on, then fill the ice cream tub up to the rest. once it's dried, cut the plastic off and prise the silicone apart, giving a 2 part, if large and blocky mould. Take clay and make a sprue on your positive before casting if you plan on pouring into your mould. That's what i'm doing and it's worked for me, though I know very little about plastics. I'm sure someone will correct me, but I hope i've helped in some way.</p>
<p>I've been working with different silicones for mold making and I would really advise to use a <strong>release agent</strong> between the object and the silicone when you make a mold. The easiest way is using <strong>wax</strong> (e.g. car wax or spray wax). Just apply or spray some on the object, let it dry and polish a bit before submerging it in silicone. Wax is also great if you're making two-part silicone molds - just apply some wax on the first silicone part so that the new silicone part wouldn't stick to the first one. Also, if you're making <strong>two-part molds, add some 'keys'</strong> - make about 1/2&quot; wide pits/holes in the first silicone mold part (remember to wax!), so when you mold the second part, the two intersect - this will help you to keep the two parts together and in the right possition when pouring plastic.</p>
<p>I tried several times to make a mold from a ceramics figurine (unglazed) I made for the project. But the silicone always sticks way too good to the figurine, thus not leaving a very smooth mold. Also very hard to get out.<br>I never tried to cure it in soap water first, but do you really think that would make the trick? I tried to cover the figurine in oil first, but made no difference.</p><p>Now I just have a figurine with a lot of silicone residue all over it, and I can't figure out a way to clean it off efficiently so I can start over</p>
<p>If you need to remove silicone from a surface, the easiest way is to use<br> white vinegar. I used it to remove special mold-making silicone, should work <br>for this cheaper version as well. I haven't tried it on ceramics, so do a test clean on a sample just in case.</p>

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