First and Foremost, This burner was designed by Mr. Ron Reil. All credit for this design goes to him. Visit Ron Reil’s page at the link below:


Also, Fire is Hot. A burner like this puts out a significant amount of heat and using such a device improperly is likely to cause you injury and/or property damage. I suggest you use good safety procedures building and operating this burner, BUT AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR CHOICES NOR AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY THAT MAY RESULT FROM YOU BUILDING AND USING THIS DEVICE.

There are countless designs for forge burners and furnace burners online. I like this one because it is simple to construct, and the materials are easily obtainable from most hardware stores.

This burner was built for this small forge. The forge is small enough that I can run the burner at under 5 psi and keep the interior at a good working temperature.However, this burner design does work well in larger forges, many large forges even use multiple burners.

In order to build this forge burner, You will need a drill, a set of bits, and a couple of files. If you don’t have a tap to install the set screws, there is an alternate method that I will address at the end of this article. Also, in order to forge the flare for this burner, you will need a functional forge already, or another heat source. If this is your first forge, there is obviously going to be a problem here. The alternate method for this too will be at the end of the article.

Also, it is important to note that you will need a gas regulator to run this burner. Simply running a hose from the burner assembly to your propane tank is not going to cut it. Regulators can be purchased locally at welding supply stores.



The main burner assembly is made from black iron pipe fittings. I bought all of these off the shelf at Lowe’s. DO NOT use galvanized fittings as they will produce toxic fumes when heated.

The brass fittings are all 1/8″. The 4″ nipple, coupler and end cap on the left make up the segment that is installed into the intake of the burner. The rest of the fittings serve to distance the hose connection from the heat of the burner, and can be constructed in any configuration you want.
<p>IMPORTANT! if you attach an adjustable blower to the back of the burner, it can be adjusted to forge weld, did just that with mine and now i can melt steel if i wish :D</p>
Can galv pipe be use for the just the part going through the bell. the piece that feeds the gas. Having a hard time finding 1/8 brass around here. plan to run 1/4 galv for that part.
<p>NO!! Galvanized pipe should not be heated. It gives off toxic fumes.</p>
<p>Lowe's List;</p><p>Outer Burner;</p><p>1 ea @ $3.48 = $3.48 Black Iron Pipe Nipple 3/4in x 8in</p><p> (ProLine #20512)(Lowe's #12946)</p><p>1 ea @ $5.78 = $5.78 Black Iron Reducer Coupling 1in x 3/4in</p><p> (ProLine #71313)(Lowe's #82770)</p><p>1 ea @ $3.08 = $3.08 Black Iron Pipe Nipple 1in x 6in</p><p> (ProLine #20610)(Lowe's #19758)</p><p>Inner Burner;</p><p>2 ea @ $5.99 = $11.98 Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8in MIP x 4in</p><p> (Watts LFA-721)(Lowe's #87758)</p><p>1ea @ $3.89 = $3.89 Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8in MIP x 2in</p><p> (Watts LFA-717)(Lowe's #87454)</p><p>2 ea @ $2.99 = $5.98 Brass Pipe Coupling 1/8in FIP x 1/8in</p><p> (Watts LFA-706)(Lowe's #85970)</p><p>1ea @ $5.58 = $5.58 Brass Pipe 90 Degree Elbow 1/8in x 1/8in</p><p> (Watts BF-700NL)(Lowe's #748348)</p><p>*I was unable to find an acorn nut to cap the end of the pipe nipples, I ended up using JB Weld (Lowe's #10301) $5.67 and a 39 cent, 5/16 in x 1/2 in (Lowe's #396437) screw to cap the end.</p><p>Set Screws;</p><p>12ea @ $1.98 = $1.98 Phillips Head Screw, 8-32 x 3/4in</p><p> (Weather Max #126944)(Lowe's #409482)</p><p>*Lowe's sells these in a package of 12, you will only need 2 of them on each piece as set screws.</p><p>Total Cost = $41.75</p><p>*with JB Weld &amp; Screw $47.81</p><p>Nearly all of these parts are in Lowe's Plumbing Department. The JB Weld was in their Paint Department (go figure!), and the set screws were in their Hardware Department.</p><p>Hope it helps! </p><p>THANKS makingcustomknives!!! Great tutorial!</p><p>HAHA! We don't pay sales tax in Oregon ;-p</p>
<p>I was wondering if this is the full list of materials to build the burner ? </p>
<p>I was wondering if this is the full list of materials to build the burner ? </p>
<p>I was wondering if this is the full list of materials to build the burner ? </p>
<p>I built a burner very much like the one here, but mine is of a smaller diameter. I've tried everything I could think of, but there doesn't even seem to be gas going through when I open the valve on the tank. I saw someone else in the comments fixed theirs with a higher output regulator. Is that what I need, or is my problem something else?</p>
Thank you for the response, i figured it out today. Got a 10 psi camping regulator from academy and now it works great!!
Burner not working!!!! Please help. I'm using a dual bbq regulator with one side capped for an option to add a second. I used a #58 for the orifice. I haven't made the flare, and am just using a 3&quot; section of 1&quot; pipe. When I light it up, I'm not getting any noticing venturi effect. Does anyone knows what I can do? Any help, please!
<p>You need a propane regulator with a higher output than the standard BBQ regulator. Like this one - </p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-40-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1460669616&sr=8-7&keywords=propane+regulator" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-40-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460669616&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=propane+regulator</a></p>
Did you cut the threads off of the side of the 8&quot; tube that the flare goes over?
When i run my forge burner it runs a blue green color, but the color in the picture is a blue. The flame is coming out the pipe instead of the funnel. Does anyone have any ideas on how to correct this issue?
<p>Though after looking at the pics more closely I think the pipe is more like 1/4 or 3/8 in the finished product versus the pic shown in step 1...has that been confirmed?</p>
<p>I was hoping for some help. I have gathered nearly all the parts for this but for the life of me can't find the fittings to go from a type 1 propane hose down to the 1/8inch female adapter i will need for my 1/8 brass nipples. I found that a 3/8inch male flare fitting fits the hose (which is strange I thought it was 1/4'' diameter). Anyways, if anyone has some advice on what or how they were able to connect the typical grill hose to the burner i would be very appreciative.</p>
You sound like you have lots of experience do you think I could make one half the size of so would I have to use a orfice hole that would let half the amount of gas out or a hole with the diameter half the size? I look forward to your response
<p>Thanks! Made 3 of these today, super easy to do. Photo of running a twin burner setup. Now gotta finish the forge!</p>
Is it possible to reduce the pipes so they can fit on a 1/2inch nipple thread but still produce the same effect?
<p>The small forge link is really jacked up. It kept leading me to a bunch of sketchy ads and online shopping. you may want to redo the link.</p>
<p>me too</p>
Seems to work perfectly here.
<p>it says the brass fittings are all 1/8th is that the diamiter? because the look closer to 3/8 in the picture. am i missing something?</p>
For anyone in Australia having a hard time finding the brass parts like I did (because apparently Bunnings and any other plumbing stores I went to didn't have them) pirtek has some brass all thread that works and is around $6 for 150mm piece and they have all the other fitting needed as well
<p>So I built this burner as specified with the exception I used a 1/16&quot; bit for the jet hole and a 3/4&quot;-1&quot; bell reducer for the front flared end. Everything aligned nicely and when I went to fire it up today attached to a newly filled 20lb propane tank all I got was a small orange flame barely leaking out the front nozzle. I played with the amount of propane entering the nozzle at ignition and got the same result. Granted it is pretty cold out today when I was trying to light it up so perhaps that had something to do with the fuel to air ratio required for solid combustion, but I figured the flame would pull in the required amount of oxygen it needed to sustain a flame. If anyone has any suggestions how to troubleshoot please advise.</p>
<p>maybe the size of the orfice (jet hole) is too big 1/16'' is a pretty big hole and if I'm right you probably aren't generating enough pressure through the orfice to pull excess air in through the venturi, remember the amount of air you're getting is supplied by 2 places, primary air (air pulled in by gas shooting from the orfice) and secondary air (atmospheric air from inside the actual burn chamber/forge). Chances are your jet hole is too big and it isn't creating enough primary air. Try it out with a smaller hole. Cheers </p><p>p.s orange flames are caused by lack of air in the air/gas mixture, to have an ideal flame the color of the flame should be blue, if you get a yellow flame you could have too much gas if the mix. blue in color is ideal it insures all the gas is getting burnt and you aren't releasing any CO in your space.</p>
<p>Make sure you are using a FULL FLOW POL adaptor to go from your tank to the system. Any other regular adaptors have built in restrictors that drag the PSI down to less than 1.</p>
<p>Thank you for this. I was having flow issues with my burner, and this fixed that!</p>
<p>You are going to get fr to much gas with the 1/16&quot; drill bit. 0.043&quot; id s #57 bit. You will be getting twice as much gas with the larger bit. I have built a bunch of burners of various types in my life, probably 50 or so, maybe more, but I don't know the exact effect of more gas. I use a ,035 mig tip for an orifice and it works for me.</p>
<p>one question, in regards to the flare, if I don't have access to a forge could I supplement the funnel with another bell reducer? for instance in this case 3/4'' to 1 1/2'' or 2''? just curious.</p>
After adjusting the flare back further than I thought (haven't forged the bell yet),<br>WORKS LIKE A CHARM!
Thanks for the info,<br>Outstanding plan!
Hey i have a questio , how small can the hole in the brass pipe be?Like can it be any larger or is that the maximum size?
He addresses this question later in the tutorial.
Great plans!<br>If you can't figure them out, sign up and READ!
<p>can one 20 lb propane tank run two burners</p>
<p>Can this forge burner get hot enough to Forge Weld?</p>
<p>Great detail, can't wait to get cracking with this project. Made my forge last week. Thanks for all the information. </p><p>Mike.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxzdqcPzXj8" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxzdqcPzXj8</a></p><p>This really helps</p>
<p>Well of two Lowes to build five of these</p>
<p>Great tutorial, but i'm having some trouble... When I built mine, I put a psi gauge twix the orifice and the tank. When I turned on the burner, I realized that the system was regulating itself to around 15 or 20 psi. I would like to push more propane than that allows me to do. Any idea why this happens/ how do I fix it?</p>
<p>where do you get the 1/8&quot; pipe?<br></p>
<p>To connect the burner to a common propane hose, I think you would also need a 1/4 Male Pipe x 3/8 Male Flare Fitting. </p>
<p>Thanks for the Instructable, great job. Can you tell me if you used any thread sealer anywhere and if so, what kind?</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>could you not use another bell reducer instead of flaring a chunk of 1&quot; pipe?</p>
<p>Does it fit to my gas forge http://devil-forge.com/gas-forges/ DFPROF1?</p>
How safe is this burner and what fittings do you use from the burner to the gas bottle
Could this burner or your other propane torch method be used with this forge: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Bladesmiths-Forge/ ?<br><br>Also, does propane burn hot enough to reform a leaf spring from a vehicle?