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First and Foremost, This burner was designed by Mr. Ron Reil. All credit for this design goes to him. Visit Ron Reil’s page at the link below:

http://ronreil.abana.org/design1.shtml

Also, Fire is Hot. A burner like this puts out a significant amount of heat and using such a device improperly is likely to cause you injury and/or property damage. I suggest you use good safety procedures building and operating this burner, BUT AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS OR CHOICES NOR AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY THAT MAY RESULT FROM YOU BUILDING AND USING THIS DEVICE.

There are countless designs for forge burners and furnace burners online. I like this one because it is simple to construct, and the materials are easily obtainable from most hardware stores.

This burner was built for this small forge. The forge is small enough that I can run the burner at under 5 psi and keep the interior at a good working temperature.However, this burner design does work well in larger forges, many large forges even use multiple burners.

In order to build this forge burner, You will need a drill, a set of bits, and a couple of files. If you don’t have a tap to install the set screws, there is an alternate method that I will address at the end of this article. Also, in order to forge the flare for this burner, you will need a functional forge already, or another heat source. If this is your first forge, there is obviously going to be a problem here. The alternate method for this too will be at the end of the article.

Also, it is important to note that you will need a gas regulator to run this burner. Simply running a hose from the burner assembly to your propane tank is not going to cut it. Regulators can be purchased locally at welding supply stores.


Step 1: TOOLS AND MATERIALS


MATERIALS

The main burner assembly is made from black iron pipe fittings. I bought all of these off the shelf at Lowe’s. DO NOT use galvanized fittings as they will produce toxic fumes when heated.

The brass fittings are all 1/8″. The 4″ nipple, coupler and end cap on the left make up the segment that is installed into the intake of the burner. The rest of the fittings serve to distance the hose connection from the heat of the burner, and can be constructed in any configuration you want.

Step 2: BURNER INTAKE 1

BURNER INTAKE

The first task is to fit the 4″ brass nipple perpendicularly through the wide opening of the bell reducer. For the burner to perform optimally, the tube needs to be centered through the intake. It doesn’t have the be perfect, but it does need to be close. I marked out a center line on the face of the reducer using a carpenter’s square and a combination square as shown in the picture.

After marking the center line on the face of the burner intake (bell reducer), extend the lines down the side of the reducer. Then place the 1/8″ brass nipple against the wide rim of the reducer and mark across the center line where its approximate center is. Transfer this line to the opposite side with the combination square.

Step 3: BURNER INTAKE 2

Before drilling the hole for the 1’8″ brass nipple, I align the center marks with the jaws of the vice to help me in orienting the drill bit. First drill a pilot hole through the “X” that we marked on the side of the reducer. Then I drill through with a 3/8″ bit.

Use a round file to allow the brass nipple to fit through both holes.


Step 4: BURNER INTAKE 3


Now that the gas tube fits through the intake of the burner, we need to find a way to secure it into position. During usage, the orifice must be pointing directly down the burner tube to burn correctly. To do this, we will install a set screw to keep the tube from rotating.

If you have never used a set screw before, the process consists of drilling a hole, then using a tap to cut threads into the sides of the hole so that the appropriate screw will fit inside.

The hole is easy enough to drill by hand, just pay attention to the angle you are drilling through the wall of the reducer. It is a slight inward angle toward the smaller opening of the reducer. I used a size 8/32 tap/screw which is drilled with a 9/64″ drill bit. You can go smaller than this if you want, but I would suggest you do not go any larger, as it would be easier to cut through the wall of the reducer.

Step 5: ORIFICE

ORIFICE

The burner orifice is drilled with a #57 drill bit. As with the positioning of the gas tube, It is important that the hole is centered. I mark a line down the length of the 4″ nipple to help me gauge by eye where the center is. Smaller drill bits are pretty fragile, so if you are drilling by hand like I am, be careful not to apply too much force. Just let the bit do the work.

IMPORTANT: Make sure that the orifice is pointed down the burner tube (small end of reducer) before using the burner. I had mine position upward with the setscrew tightened because it was easier to hold it in the vice. MAKE SURE THAT YOU POINT THE ORIFICE DOWN THE BURNER TUBE BEFORE USAGE.

Step 6: Flare


FLARE

With the help of the funnel shaped burner intake, the mirrored funnel of the flare at the burner’s tip helps to create the vacuum effect known as “venturi”.

The flare is made from a 3″ segment of 1″pipe that slides over the end of the 3/4″ burner tube. After heating the 3″ segment to a red heat, I hammer the rim of the pipe against a piece of round bar, rotating the pipe as I work. The flare should expand out to around 1 1/2″ at the opening. I recommend putting a set screw in flare as well, to provide a wider range of adjustments for your burner.

Step 7: Assembly

Assembly

To orient the orifice, I took my #57 bit and inserted it, shank first, into the hole. Using the bit as a pointer, I directed it out of the SMALL end of the reducer (down the burner tube) and centered it as well as I could before tightening the set screw. It may take some more adjusting, but that is a good place to start.

As I said before, the fixtures coming off off the 4″ brass nipple (gas tube) serve primarily to distance the rubber gas hose from the heat of the burner and forge, so you can use whatever configuration you want. The last fitting on the brass assembly is a 1/8″ to 1/4″ bushing which attaches to a LP gas hose which attaches to a regulator running off a 20lb propane tank.

Conclusion.

I do not claim to be an expert on much of anything, but specifically on forges. My authority on these subjects is that I have successfully done what I am talking about, and I am willing to take the time to document my experience and produce article, videos, and instructions to the best of my ability so that others can overcome obstacles that I have met. I am always open to advice from the many, many folks who know how to do this stuff better than I do, and I am always happy to give advice to anyone who asks.

So, for more honest to goodness instruction on forges, knifemaking, and metalworking, Check out my website at the link below:

www.makingcustomknives.com

Thanks for reading.

Step 8: Alternatives - Set Screws

ALTERNATIVES

In section I will talk about work-arounds for certain parts of this forge burner. The first is the set screw. If you do not have a tap set, you need to use another method to secure the gas tube. To substitute the setscrew, you can use the threaded end of a 1″ pipe segment screwed into the intake (bell reducer). Just tighten down the 1″ pipe against the tube to keep it in place. The disadvantage to this is that it narrows the intake, and therefore decreases the amount of air in the fuel mixture. This inst necessarily a bad thing, just something to remember.

Step 9: Alternatives - Forged Flare


Next, in order to forge the flare, you will need to already have a working forge. The alternative to the forged flare, is to simply not forge the flare. Using a 3″ piece of 1″ pipe over the burner tube will create the vacuum or “venturi” effect when. The “disadvantage is the same as before, it will not draw quite as much oxygen into the mix.
<p>Thank you very much for sharing your plans.</p>
<p>Thank you for such a great article on building a propane burner. I plan to give it a try as I am currently using bricketts for barbecuing. Thanks again.</p>
<p>Hello.</p><p>Will this burner work with butane gas instead of propane? where i live propane is not that common. Thanks, Mike</p>
I can't find the 4&quot; 1/8 brass nipple... only 3&quot; does its make a difference ?
<p>I have just read and viewed your how to make a burner above and find it to be very good. I have written and taught for the US NAVY and a civilian company it is on par with all I have seen and written myself. A big BZ to you.</p>
<p>Does the flare half to be hand forged, or could I just use a pipe coupler as a flare? </p>
<p>How important is the orifice size hole? I've tried to do some quick reading and can't find anything definite. Lowe's did not have a #57 bit, the smallest bits they had that I could find were 1/16&quot; which I have plenty of at home. I could order from Amazon, but don't feel like waiting. Thinking maybe I'll just try a 1/16&quot; orifice and if it's not working well order a bit and just buy another short section of brass pipe.</p>
<p>ace hardware or homedepot probably have it. </p>
I followed this to the T today, and can't figure out why mine won't burn blue. It just burns like a big candle.. any ideas? I was wondering if my bell wasn't smooth enough or even enough. So tomorrow I'm gonna try a reducer for the output/bell side
Is the flared end needed for it to work correctly?
<p>Yes it is, otherwise the burner doesn't develop enough vacuum in the tube to draw enough air in for complete combustion, and also the flame will not burn very hot because the fuel/air mixture isn't right.</p>
Im haven't trouble getting this to have a flame come out of the end of the tube, is the flared end needed for it to work correctly?
Can galv pipe be use for the just the part going through the bell. the piece that feeds the gas. Having a hard time finding 1/8 brass around here. plan to run 1/4 galv for that part.
<p>If you can't get black pipe, you can throw the gal fittings into acid (even vinegar) and it will eat the zinc off. Once it stops bubbling, the zinc is gone, and heating should present no problems. (The flare at the gas injection end should never get hot enough to cause zinc fumes, due to the air flowing over it and being a long way from the flame)</p>
<p>NO!! Galvanized pipe should not be heated. It gives off toxic fumes.</p>
<p>wouldn't it be ok if it is done in open air, I mean isn't it just small quantities of zinc that will be released?</p>
I thought the same thing that being outside would be enough. This is also what my friend thought. Unbeknownst to him He welded on galvanized &amp; it swelled his eyes shut lol<br>In all seriousness, his eyes were swollen shut for 6 hours!<br><br>
<p>This is a for real No, not just a bad idea No. I wouldn't want to mess with zinc smoke/fumes in any quantities. http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor.php?lesson=safety3/demo</p>
<p>Lowe's List;</p><p>Outer Burner;</p><p>1 ea @ $3.48 = $3.48 Black Iron Pipe Nipple 3/4in x 8in</p><p> (ProLine #20512)(Lowe's #12946)</p><p>1 ea @ $5.78 = $5.78 Black Iron Reducer Coupling 1in x 3/4in</p><p> (ProLine #71313)(Lowe's #82770)</p><p>1 ea @ $3.08 = $3.08 Black Iron Pipe Nipple 1in x 6in</p><p> (ProLine #20610)(Lowe's #19758)</p><p>Inner Burner;</p><p>2 ea @ $5.99 = $11.98 Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8in MIP x 4in</p><p> (Watts LFA-721)(Lowe's #87758)</p><p>1ea @ $3.89 = $3.89 Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8in MIP x 2in</p><p> (Watts LFA-717)(Lowe's #87454)</p><p>2 ea @ $2.99 = $5.98 Brass Pipe Coupling 1/8in FIP x 1/8in</p><p> (Watts LFA-706)(Lowe's #85970)</p><p>1ea @ $5.58 = $5.58 Brass Pipe 90 Degree Elbow 1/8in x 1/8in</p><p> (Watts BF-700NL)(Lowe's #748348)</p><p>*I was unable to find an acorn nut to cap the end of the pipe nipples, I ended up using JB Weld (Lowe's #10301) $5.67 and a 39 cent, 5/16 in x 1/2 in (Lowe's #396437) screw to cap the end.</p><p>Set Screws;</p><p>12ea @ $1.98 = $1.98 Phillips Head Screw, 8-32 x 3/4in</p><p> (Weather Max #126944)(Lowe's #409482)</p><p>*Lowe's sells these in a package of 12, you will only need 2 of them on each piece as set screws.</p><p>Total Cost = $41.75</p><p>*with JB Weld &amp; Screw $47.81</p><p>Nearly all of these parts are in Lowe's Plumbing Department. The JB Weld was in their Paint Department (go figure!), and the set screws were in their Hardware Department.</p><p>Hope it helps! </p><p>THANKS makingcustomknives!!! Great tutorial!</p><p>HAHA! We don't pay sales tax in Oregon ;-p</p>
Tom!! Seriously, thank you.<br>I've had great difficulty with other burners due to lack in clarity of parts &amp; such, this will help lots.<br><br>Cheers!
<p>I was wondering if this is the full list of materials to build the burner ? </p>
Yes
<p>I was wondering if this is the full list of materials to build the burner ? </p>
<p>I was wondering if this is the full list of materials to build the burner ? </p>
For anyone in Australia having a hard time finding the brass parts like I did (because apparently Bunnings and any other plumbing stores I went to didn't have them) pirtek has some brass all thread that works and is around $6 for 150mm piece and they have all the other fitting needed as well
<p>Where did you find your un-galvanized pipe? I am having some trouble across the ditch here</p>
<p>lad!</p>
I just might make this. I started blade smithing a few months ago and I have a brake drum forge that is heated with charcoal that I also make myself. It's getting almost impossible to fit, making the charcoal, forging, finishing making scales, into my schedule. I think that LP gas is the way to go for my time constraints.
<p>IMPORTANT! if you attach an adjustable blower to the back of the burner, it can be adjusted to forge weld, did just that with mine and now i can melt steel if i wish :D</p>
<p>I built a burner very much like the one here, but mine is of a smaller diameter. I've tried everything I could think of, but there doesn't even seem to be gas going through when I open the valve on the tank. I saw someone else in the comments fixed theirs with a higher output regulator. Is that what I need, or is my problem something else?</p>
Thank you for the response, i figured it out today. Got a 10 psi camping regulator from academy and now it works great!!
Burner not working!!!! Please help. I'm using a dual bbq regulator with one side capped for an option to add a second. I used a #58 for the orifice. I haven't made the flare, and am just using a 3&quot; section of 1&quot; pipe. When I light it up, I'm not getting any noticing venturi effect. Does anyone knows what I can do? Any help, please!
<p>You need a propane regulator with a higher output than the standard BBQ regulator. Like this one - </p><p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-40-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1460669616&sr=8-7&keywords=propane+regulator" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-5HPR-40-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0033JF0GE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1460669616&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=propane+regulator</a></p>
Did you cut the threads off of the side of the 8&quot; tube that the flare goes over?
When i run my forge burner it runs a blue green color, but the color in the picture is a blue. The flame is coming out the pipe instead of the funnel. Does anyone have any ideas on how to correct this issue?
<p>Though after looking at the pics more closely I think the pipe is more like 1/4 or 3/8 in the finished product versus the pic shown in step 1...has that been confirmed?</p>
<p>I was hoping for some help. I have gathered nearly all the parts for this but for the life of me can't find the fittings to go from a type 1 propane hose down to the 1/8inch female adapter i will need for my 1/8 brass nipples. I found that a 3/8inch male flare fitting fits the hose (which is strange I thought it was 1/4'' diameter). Anyways, if anyone has some advice on what or how they were able to connect the typical grill hose to the burner i would be very appreciative.</p>
You sound like you have lots of experience do you think I could make one half the size of so would I have to use a orfice hole that would let half the amount of gas out or a hole with the diameter half the size? I look forward to your response
<p>Thanks! Made 3 of these today, super easy to do. Photo of running a twin burner setup. Now gotta finish the forge!</p>
Is it possible to reduce the pipes so they can fit on a 1/2inch nipple thread but still produce the same effect?
<p>The small forge link is really jacked up. It kept leading me to a bunch of sketchy ads and online shopping. you may want to redo the link.</p>
<p>me too</p>
Seems to work perfectly here.
<p>it says the brass fittings are all 1/8th is that the diamiter? because the look closer to 3/8 in the picture. am i missing something?</p>
<p>So I built this burner as specified with the exception I used a 1/16&quot; bit for the jet hole and a 3/4&quot;-1&quot; bell reducer for the front flared end. Everything aligned nicely and when I went to fire it up today attached to a newly filled 20lb propane tank all I got was a small orange flame barely leaking out the front nozzle. I played with the amount of propane entering the nozzle at ignition and got the same result. Granted it is pretty cold out today when I was trying to light it up so perhaps that had something to do with the fuel to air ratio required for solid combustion, but I figured the flame would pull in the required amount of oxygen it needed to sustain a flame. If anyone has any suggestions how to troubleshoot please advise.</p>
<p>maybe the size of the orfice (jet hole) is too big 1/16'' is a pretty big hole and if I'm right you probably aren't generating enough pressure through the orfice to pull excess air in through the venturi, remember the amount of air you're getting is supplied by 2 places, primary air (air pulled in by gas shooting from the orfice) and secondary air (atmospheric air from inside the actual burn chamber/forge). Chances are your jet hole is too big and it isn't creating enough primary air. Try it out with a smaller hole. Cheers </p><p>p.s orange flames are caused by lack of air in the air/gas mixture, to have an ideal flame the color of the flame should be blue, if you get a yellow flame you could have too much gas if the mix. blue in color is ideal it insures all the gas is getting burnt and you aren't releasing any CO in your space.</p>
<p>Make sure you are using a FULL FLOW POL adaptor to go from your tank to the system. Any other regular adaptors have built in restrictors that drag the PSI down to less than 1.</p>
<p>Thank you for this. I was having flow issues with my burner, and this fixed that!</p>
<p>You are going to get fr to much gas with the 1/16&quot; drill bit. 0.043&quot; id s #57 bit. You will be getting twice as much gas with the larger bit. I have built a bunch of burners of various types in my life, probably 50 or so, maybe more, but I don't know the exact effect of more gas. I use a ,035 mig tip for an orifice and it works for me.</p>
<p>one question, in regards to the flare, if I don't have access to a forge could I supplement the funnel with another bell reducer? for instance in this case 3/4'' to 1 1/2'' or 2''? just curious.</p>

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